Der Traumpfad // day 12 // Riepenkar - Stein

Der Traumpfad, day 12.
Distance: 13.1km (246.6km), time spent: 4:53.
Weather: Sun and thunder.

After having climbed Olperer, I have still some time left of the day and some distance to go. It is a good thing that I did make the climb, as I believe the next stage of Der Traumpfad might have been a little bit too short of a day if not. The walk from the Olpererhütte to Stein is only about 13km and is of moderate difficulty. Combining this stage with the next (to Pfunders) might be possible, but that would make for a very hard day, so I am extremely happy to have had time to climb the Olperer today.

Sunrise from earlier in the day, at Olpererhütte.

The path going above the Schlegeisspeicher after leaving Olpererhütte.

Finishing my kaiserschmarrn lunch, I gather my belongings where I left them at the hut earlier. Most of the hike today will be on a contour path known as the Panorama Höhenweg, starting almost immediately after leaving the hut. I can see the line of the path clearly ahead.

Looking back towards the Olpererhütte with Gefrorene-Wand-Spitzen towering above the left.

Staircase in heaven.

Not entirely aching, but I can feel it on my knees that I have used them today. If they were hinges, they would be making little creaking noises. They get better as they get warmer from moving again. The walking is lovely, with great views of the Schlegeisspeicher below, now more to my left. The Olperer and Gefrorene-Wand-Spitzen are looking down upon me on this side of the lake, but the highest mountains in the Zillertal Alps are found on the other side (with the Hochfeiler one of them).

A religious icon overlooking the Schlegeisspeicher lake.

The path is entirely engineered and all by machine, the construction was done in 2006 and featured nothing other than about 2600 slabs of rock. Whatever engineering lies behind it and the flatness of the rocks, the path is far from flat. Parts of it appear like staircases. I share the joy of walking on it with several others, going in both directions. Climbing a little I arrive at a white idol, what appear like a Virgin Mary statue. You could get religious of less.

Panorama Höhenweg.

View of the Alpeiner Scharte pass from the descent to Unterschrammach Kar.

When I see the sky is darkening above the mountains on the other side of the valley, I set up the pace. Those clouds are all thunder and I do not want to be caught up in them. At this point the trail is beginning a meandering and sometimes steep descent towards the bottom of a bowl known as Unterschrammach Kar. This is where an alternative route on Der Traumpfad comes down from the Alpeiner Scharte, another high pass with a steep descent to follow (this alternative route comes from the Geraerhütte and is a route you can take if you want to avoid the Friesenbergscharte, although this descent is still very steep).

Thunderstorm above the Zillertal Alps on the other side of the valley.

Looking back at the Panorama Höhenweg cutting through the landscape.

Rain drops are felt as I start climbing again and on the other side deep rumbles are heard from between the peaks. The lovely contour path continues its journey at the sides of the mountains and suddenly the path is barred by ropes, cordoning bands and signposts warning of mortal danger (lebens gefahr). Here the path crosses a creek and is much is made so that the hiker should take a safer detour further up the creek. The crossing does not look that bad, but the water flow is quite low at the moment and I believe it would be a different matter when there are more water gushing down.

Cairn and thunderclouds.

View back towards Schlegeisspeicher, Olperer visible all the way up to the left.

Italy is now getting closer by the minute and slowly the path winds down towards the last climb before saying goodbye to Austria. Unceremoniously I cross the border of Italy at the Pfitscher Joch pass (2251m), on a gravel track, entering the last country of my trek. Maybe the thunderstorm was not allowed to enter Italy, but after the early rain drops and rumblings from afar, the thunder never came any closer. Here on the approach to the Pfitscher Joch Haus, the weather is beautiful, although there are darker clouds visible ahead. A good wind is blowing.

Crossing into Italy at the Pfitscher Joch pass.

Satisfied with the day, although not yet finished, I take a break at the Pfitscher Joch Haus and sit outside in the sun and wind with a cold beer (well earned according to myself). Martina would only be going here today, but when I spotted her, she was down by a little pond near the cabin and soon vanished out of sight.

Heart at Pfitscher Joch Haus, ribbons fluttering in the wind.

If you stay here instead of in Stein, you could bypass a section of the hike and so avoid the descent to Stein and the following ascent. The trail do go down to Stein, but on the climb back up again it will pass close by where you go down from here (there is a path that can be used to avoid the descent). As at the Olpererhütte, there is also a heart sculpture here, with ribbons fluttering in the wind.

Divine light on the sky.

Descent to Stein from Pfitscher Joch Haus.

A dramatic sky further down the valley and in places I can see rain showers. On the way down I meet Martina, on her way back up again. I am sorry that she does not go down to Stein too, but I will see her again tomorrow, at Pfunders. The walk down is wonderful, first past a couple of abandoned barracks, then through an open landscape with lovely views of the valley below, as well as the valley the trail is heading up into tomorrow. Going further down, the trail enters the forest on a good path.

Looking into the Gliderbach valley with the Gliderschartl pass.

Stein.

Stein is a tiny hamlet tucket in at the end of a valley, consisting only of a few houses, mostly farms and a small chapel about to collapse. And then there is the Gasthof Stein, a chalet adorned with flowers, where I will stay for the night. It is also quite old and ancient, the dining room is wonderful in that essence, but I will not have my dinner there. The weather is too good to sit inside in, and upon arrival they tell me that I will have to eat right away if I want to have dinner. Both Enrique, Dieter and Karin are here and they keep me company outside while I eat. I also meet another couple who are here doing some walks around in the area, they met each other on the Camino Francés.

The flower adorned chalet of Gasthof Stein.

What a day. You have to give credit to Olperer for probably making this day the best day of hiking so far on Der Traumpfad, particularly so since the following hike from the Olpererhütte to Stein was such an enjoyable walk too. I go to bed in this creaking and charming guesthouse with the knowledge that another pass awaits me tomorrow, the Gliderschartl, I could see it from the descent to Stein. If the weather is good, it will be good.

Inside the ancient dining room at Gasthof Stein.

<< Olperer // day 12Pfunders // day 13 >>

Der Traumpfad // day 12 // Olperer

Der Traumpfad, day 12.
Distance: 7.9km (233.5km), time spent: 4:57.
Weather: Sunny and cloudy.

This was a wild idea that come out of the blue to me yesterday evening. All the time when I had looked at the maps and moved my way hither, both the name of the peak and the tall peak itself above had fascinated me in a way. The Olperer, the main summit on the Tux Crest (Tuxer Kamm), first climbed by Paul Grohmann, Georg Samer and Gainer Jackl on the 10th of September 1867. Assured by the staff at the Olpererhütte that both the weather forecast would be favorable and that it was possible to do to the climb without any safety equipment, the idea turned into reality. I do not need a tiny dream version of Leonardo DiCaprio to plant ideas in my mind to make me do them, I am perfectly capable of doing that myself. Be it wise or not.

View of the Olperer above.

The path too the summit is only marked as far as a junction, from where the markings continue up to the summit of Riepenkopf. From where the signpost points to the direction of Olperer, there are none, but the path would be fairly distinct I was told. I should from the junction climb up the crest, cross a glacier and then follow the crest of a steep ridge all the way up to the summit. I should have time enough to make the climb, go down and reach Stein afterwards.

Clouds flowing like a shroud over the Olperer.

A marvellous view down from the climb.

A clear blue sky is dominating above, the weather is absolutely lovely as I set off in the morning, but there are some clouds up there to be aware of. From the Olpererhütte, the path is well signed, heading fairly straight up the mountainside above the cabin. Quickly the surface looses its greenness and becomes more rocky. High up, both the Olperer and Gefrorene-Wand-Spitzen wear a cap of clouds, but there are also wind up there, shaking off veils of clouds. Views down at the Schlegeisspeicher lake and the mountains behind with Hochfeiler are getting ever more impressive. After around 45 minutes of walking I arrive at the junction where I will leave the waymarked path towards Riepenkopf, no more waymarkers from me. I can see a group of people up at Riepenkopf.

Sunlight reflection creating a halo around a watersource below.

With the waymarkings gone, the path starts to make its way through larger stones. Although not as clear a path as before, the way I must go is quite apparent. I can use the larger stones as stairs, but must be careful not to tip any unstable of them over. Things get steeper, things get further down, and clouds are coming closer. I reach the glacer I am supposed to cross, opting to go around it instead of over. A good choice, otherwise I would not have spotted the special halo the sun created when being reflected on a creek far below. Looked like an optical illusion.

Final crest towards the summit of Olperer.

Cable wires up to the final crest.

After the glacier, the crest becomes steeper, but then there are no misgivings about where to go. On the right hand side, it goes fairly straight down towards the Hintertux Glacier below. People are skiing on the glacier. Further down I had passed by a small group of people, now I pass by a young man with two young women, in the process of putting on safety equipment (quite like via ferrata equipment), just before the path comes to the serious part.

Looking down at the Hintertux Glacier from the climb up, there are people skiing on the glacier below.

A steel cable leads up the left hand side of the crest, giving aid up the steep climb on and over large boulders. Most of it are easy climbing, but when I come to an overhang, I reach a conclusive spot. Either to continue on or turn back. It is an overhang and in order to continue, I have to lift myself up using a steel pin above. Climbing up would be no problem, but I am unsure if I will be able to see where to put my feet on the way back. A fall here will be critical.

View back down to the climb up.

I put my camera in my backpack (my small foldable backpack that I always carry with me) and makes the climb, stopping at the top to ascert how I could come down again (it is too late anyway, as I am already up, but I like to be prepared anyway). From there the rest of the climb up to the summit is almost all on steep inclines, going over or around boulders and cliffs. It is very steep down on both sides, but it is worst on my right side.

The gipfelkreuz at the summit of Olperer at 3476m.

About two hours and twenty minutes since I left Olpererhütte, I reach the summit giving name to the cabin, Olperer at 3476m. The views are extensive in all directions. I was lucky with my time of arrival, the summit being free of clouds when I come. Three other people are at the summit, two of them wearing climbing gear, required by the other route coming up from the Hintertux Glacier. From the top, I can follow almost all the crests, ridges, peaks and passes that I have passed over on my way so far, all the way back to the line of mountains in the horizon, the Karwendel Alps.

View from the summit of Olperer in the direction I have come from on Der Traumpfad, the Karwendel Alps all the way in the back.

I stay for a little bit at the summit and the gipfelkreuz, taking in the magnificent views, then I head down again. Having already climbed up on the crest, makes it easier to go down the same way again. The group I passed by earlier are now up at the crest, having to wait for me to come down from an exposed section before they can continue climbing. In front of them, they have a guide laying out ropes for them to use, I did not have that luxury.

At the summit of Olperer.

At the overhang I had before taken a good luck on how to get down again, and it went better than it looked like it would do from below. Below the cables, I meet again the young man and women from before. I did not see them at the summit, but they were clearly preparing themselves for the climb up earlier. When I ask them about it, they answer no in such a rather quick and stern fashion that I feel it best to leave them be.

Steep inclines on the climb, at the back you can see a climber on another route to the summit (which requires climbing equipment).

A group climbing an exposed section, after I have come down from it.

Down again, I cross over the glacier, which goes fine, although there are some wet patches here and there. Another hiker sits at the edge of it, putting on crampons. Somehow I end up taking a different way down from there, but as it is not difficult to see where I need to go, I end up at the waymarked path again. I arrive down at the Olpererhütte in time for lunch, a well-deserved portion of kaiserschmarrn.

The climber and the glacier, a man putting on crampons before going over the glacier.

So extremely glad that I made the climb, but despite that I have not got vertigo and love scrambling, part of it was just a little bit at the edge of my own comfort zone.

The path above the Olpererhütte on the way down.

<< Riepenkar // day 11Stein // day 12 >>

Der Traumpfad // day 11 / Tuxer Joch - Riepenkar

Der Traumpfad, day 11.
Distance: 11.0km (225.6km), time spent: 6:02.
Weather: Changing, sunny, overcast, some rain and minor thunder later.

Throughout Der Traumpfad, there are some high passes that demands attention. And some more than others, the Schlauchkarsattel back in the Karwendel Alps was one of them, today the Friesenbergscharte in the Zillertal Alps is the main steep attraction. And as always, I am looking forward to it. If everything goes fine, this will be another shorter stage, but that still holds some challenges (the mentioned pass is one of them). If something goes astray, like not getting a bed at the Olpererhütte, this will be a longer stage.

Over that pass is where I will be going, view of the Friesenbergscharte, Gefrorene-Wand-Spitzen and Hintertux Glacier from Tuxer Joch Haus.

Dominating the view from the Tuxer Joch Haus are the steep sides of the Gefrorene-Wand-Spitzen peak and the Friesenbergscharte pass, marred some by the cable cars, ski lifts and other ski station equipment that runs up and down its sides. Making its way through those sides are Der Traumpfad. After breakfast it is time for another farewell, this is the end of the line for Lucas, who will walk down towards Hintertux from here. Enrique on the other hand had left earlier, deciding to make use of the cable car to escape parts of the demanding climb up to the pass. I walk together with Martina, Sophia and Michael.

Morning at Tuxer Joch Haus.

Looking up at the Tuxer Joch Haus.

A clear blue sky with only thin patches of clouds floating around is a good way to start the walk by. Together with a big group of people (on a guided group tour) going to the Friesenberghaus, we follow the track down from the cabin. We are heading down towards the Sommarberg Alm ski station, you can guess what it looks like before you see it, but thankfully not all the way down to it. After about 700m, the trail has had enough of the descent and starts climbing again, at first on a nice path that sometimes offers cables for assistance.

The path to the Spannagelhaus and Friesenbergscharte.

Making use of both a winding wider gravel track and a more straightforward narrow path, the trail climbs up to the Spannagelhaus. Which before also provided accommodation, but now only serves as a restaurant. Its main attraction however, is the access to what claims to be the largest cave system in the central Alps, located underneath the Hintertux glacier. It is tempting to go on a guided tour of the caves, although it only makes use of 500m of the 12.5km total the cave system boasts. I leave it be, have to wait a little while and it also means that I will have to say goodbye to the others.

Ski station paraphernalia reflections.

View back towards the Spannagelhaus (to the left), Tuxer Joch Haus (a small dot barely visible) and the ridge beneath the Wandspitze that I walked over yesterday (hidden in the clouds).

If weather is bad, the Friesenbergscharte should be avoided, but its alternative will be a bitter pill to swallow for purists. If not waiting out the weather is an option, the recommended alternative is to go down to Mayrhofen and take a bus around, for then to walk up to either the Friesenberghaus, Olpererhütte or even Pfitscher Joch Haus. The weather is fine when we begin the ascent from the Spannagelhaus, but as we climb further up on the steep path while paying close attention to the waymarks, clouds are filling up the sky rapidly.

Michael and Sophia climbing up towards the Friesenbergscharte.

It is back to bare rocks and stones again. Behind us the views are that of the mountains we have passed over, and close by are the moving cable cars and ski lifts of the ski station. Worst is the view of the glacier that we know is rapidly diminishing. It looks that we are up for a race against the clock to be at the pass before the clouds.

Clouds closing in as I am getting closer to the Friesenbergscharte, looking back towards the ski station equipment at the edge of the Hintertux Glacier.

I reach the pass, Friesenbergscharte at 2912m, just in time to see the clouds closing in on the view below on the other side. At first I feel slightly disappointed, but then windows appears in the clouds, revealing at intervals the landscape below. Far below I can see the glacier lake of Friesenbergsee, with the Friesenberghaus cabin not far away. Further back in the horizon, the green colours of the Schlegeisspeicher lake, still visible underneath the clouds. All the mountains and peaks behind are cut off by the clouds. And then clouds engulfs the pass again. I stay a little high up there in the clouds, while the others lingers little.

View from the Friesenbergscharte, with Friesenberghaus and Friesenbergsee below and Schlegeisspeicher further behind.

Looking down at the descent from Friesenbergscharte.

The climb down from Friesenbergscharte is another descent that requires a keen eye for heights. I descend into the fog on a narrow and winding path, with a wire almost always within reach if need be. Above me the pass disappear in the clouds. Views down comes and goes. I can see Martina, Michael, Sophia, Dieter and Karin below, and within moments later, I cannot see them any more. By the look of it, the descent appear very challenging, but with concentration and the aid of the cables and steel pins the climbing is easier than you think.

Friesenbergscharte up there in the clouds.

Steep descent. Friesenbergsee visible through the thin layer of clouds.

I catch up with Martina, Michael and Sophia. There is a path going down towards the Friesenberghaus, but a makeshift signpost that we find lying on the ground announces that the path should not be used. Michael and Sophia had planned to go down to the cabin and from there down to the road far below, as they too will finish their hike today, but changes their minds and goes with us to the Olpererhütte instead.

Walking above the Friesenberghaus and Friesenbergsee.

The walk to the cabin is wonderful, on a well-maintained path shared with the Berliner Höhenweg, going along the mountainside with amazing views of the Schlegeisspeicher and mountains behind. When we came down from the Friesenbergscharte, the weather improved and while clouds still lingers in the sky, they are at least doing it so higher up.

On the Berliner Höhenweg.

Overlooking the Schlegeisspeicher lake in perfect symmetry, the Olpererhütte is as modern looking cabin that is extremely popular. It also boasts a suspension bridge that we cross over on the approach to the hut, which is the centre of everybodys attraction. It is made so that if you sit out on the middle of it, and the photographer put himself in the right spot, he or she can take a picture of you looking as you are suspended above the lake below. A perfect instagram-spot, and probably copied over and over. I get persuaded to get a picture taken, but I only stand there looking sheepishly, as I really feel the commotion around the bridge is too much for my taste.

Looking back towards the Friesenbergscharte.

Approaching the Olpererhütte.

Thankfully, despite having no beds available according to the website, both Martina and I get a bed. However, if we had not, I think there would still be plenty of time to get to the Pfitscher Joch Haus. In the throng on the terrace outside we manage to get ourselves a table. Michael and Sophia eats lunch together with us, before they head down to catch a bus back home. I have the wonderfully named graukasnockerl, cheese dumplings with melted butter, parmesan shavings and bacon coleslaw.

Quite crowded at the Olpererhütte, it is a very popular hut and visited by many day and sleepover guests.

Another early arrival, but I get the time going by taking small walks around the hut, the views are superb. Rain and thunder are suddenly passing by outside, making the guests escape inside, but in its wake, the weather leaves behind a wonderful double rainbow. Not giving up on the clouds, the sky is still changing. I must admit that the cabin has a stunning location, not to mention that the cabin itself is nice. I eat dinner together with Martina and Enrique. They go earlier to bed than I do, and in the evening I sit inside in the dark and watch the lights from a solitary car move around the lake far below (I cannot see the lake itself).

A wonderful view of the Olpererhütte and Schlegeisspeicher lake with a double rainbow.

Double rainbow after the passing thunderstorm.

The walk has really improved and gathered momentum in terms of how much I enjoy it compared to the earliest days, but that is also to expect after eleven days on the way. Another good dream day today. I have now left the Tux Alps and has entered the Zillertal Alps, the last of the Alps before the Dolomites. Tomorrow, I believe I will be in Italy.

Evening view of the Schlegeisspeicher lake and mountains behind from the Olpererhütte.

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