Distance: 11.0km (225.6km), time spent: 6:02.
Weather: Changing, sunny, overcast, some rain and minor thunder later.
Throughout Der Traumpfad, there are some high passes that demands attention. And some more than others, the Schlauchkarsattel back in the Karwendel Alps was one of them, today the Friesenbergscharte in the Zillertal Alps is the main steep attraction. And as always, I am looking forward to it. If everything goes fine, this will be another shorter stage, but that still holds some challenges (the mentioned pass is one of them). If something goes astray, like not getting a bed at the Olpererhütte, this will be a longer stage.
Over that pass is where I will be going, view of the Friesenbergscharte, Gefrorene-Wand-Spitzen and Hintertux Glacier from Tuxer Joch Haus.
Dominating the view from the Tuxer Joch Haus are the steep sides of the Gefrorene-Wand-Spitzen peak and the Friesenbergscharte pass, marred some by the cable cars, ski lifts and other ski station equipment that runs up and down its sides. Making its way through those sides are Der Traumpfad. After breakfast it is time for another farewell, this is the end of the line for Lucas, who will walk down towards Hintertux from here. Enrique on the other hand had left earlier, deciding to make use of the cable car to escape parts of the demanding climb up to the pass. I walk together with Martina, Sophia and Michael.
Morning at Tuxer Joch Haus.
Looking up at the Tuxer Joch Haus.
A clear blue sky with only thin patches of clouds floating around is a good way to start the walk by. Together with a big group of people (on a guided group tour) going to the Friesenberghaus, we follow the track down from the cabin. We are heading down towards the Sommarberg Alm ski station, you can guess what it looks like before you see it, but thankfully not all the way down to it. After about 700m, the trail has had enough of the descent and starts climbing again, at first on a nice path that sometimes offers cables for assistance.
The path to the Spannagelhaus and Friesenbergscharte.
Making use of both a winding wider gravel track and a more straightforward narrow path, the trail climbs up to the Spannagelhaus. Which before also provided accommodation, but now only serves as a restaurant. Its main attraction however, is the access to what claims to be the largest cave system in the central Alps, located underneath the Hintertux glacier. It is tempting to go on a guided tour of the caves, although it only makes use of 500m of the 12.5km total the cave system boasts. I leave it be, have to wait a little while and it also means that I will have to say goodbye to the others.
Ski station paraphernalia reflections.
View back towards the Spannagelhaus (to the left), Tuxer Joch Haus (a small dot barely visible) and the ridge beneath the Wandspitze that I walked over yesterday (hidden in the clouds).
If weather is bad, the Friesenbergscharte should be avoided, but its alternative will be a bitter pill to swallow for purists. If not waiting out the weather is an option, the recommended alternative is to go down to Mayrhofen and take a bus around, for then to walk up to either the Friesenberghaus, Olpererhütte or even Pfitscher Joch Haus. The weather is fine when we begin the ascent from the Spannagelhaus, but as we climb further up on the steep path while paying close attention to the waymarks, clouds are filling up the sky rapidly.
Michael and Sophia climbing up towards the Friesenbergscharte.
It is back to bare rocks and stones again. Behind us the views are that of the mountains we have passed over, and close by are the moving cable cars and ski lifts of the ski station. Worst is the view of the glacier that we know is rapidly diminishing. It looks that we are up for a race against the clock to be at the pass before the clouds.
Clouds closing in as I am getting closer to the Friesenbergscharte, looking back towards the ski station equipment at the edge of the Hintertux Glacier.
I reach the pass, Friesenbergscharte at 2912m, just in time to see the clouds closing in on the view below on the other side. At first I feel slightly disappointed, but then windows appears in the clouds, revealing at intervals the landscape below. Far below I can see the glacier lake of Friesenbergsee, with the Friesenberghaus cabin not far away. Further back in the horizon, the green colours of the Schlegeisspeicher lake, still visible underneath the clouds. All the mountains and peaks behind are cut off by the clouds. And then clouds engulfs the pass again. I stay a little high up there in the clouds, while the others lingers little.
View from the Friesenbergscharte, with Friesenberghaus and Friesenbergsee below and Schlegeisspeicher further behind.
Looking down at the descent from Friesenbergscharte.
The climb down from Friesenbergscharte is another descent that requires a keen eye for heights. I descend into the fog on a narrow and winding path, with a wire almost always within reach if need be. Above me the pass disappear in the clouds. Views down comes and goes. I can see Martina, Michael, Sophia, Dieter and Karin below, and within moments later, I cannot see them any more. By the look of it, the descent appear very challenging, but with concentration and the aid of the cables and steel pins the climbing is easier than you think.
Friesenbergscharte up there in the clouds.
Steep descent. Friesenbergsee visible through the thin layer of clouds.
I catch up with Martina, Michael and Sophia. There is a path going down towards the Friesenberghaus, but a makeshift signpost that we find lying on the ground announces that the path should not be used. Michael and Sophia had planned to go down to the cabin and from there down to the road far below, as they too will finish their hike today, but changes their minds and goes with us to the Olpererhütte instead.
Walking above the Friesenberghaus and Friesenbergsee.
The walk to the cabin is wonderful, on a well-maintained path shared with the Berliner Höhenweg, going along the mountainside with amazing views of the Schlegeisspeicher and mountains behind. When we came down from the Friesenbergscharte, the weather improved and while clouds still lingers in the sky, they are at least doing it so higher up.
On the Berliner Höhenweg.
Overlooking the Schlegeisspeicher lake in perfect symmetry, the Olpererhütte is as modern looking cabin that is extremely popular. It also boasts a suspension bridge that we cross over on the approach to the hut, which is the centre of everybodys attraction. It is made so that if you sit out on the middle of it, and the photographer put himself in the right spot, he or she can take a picture of you looking as you are suspended above the lake below. A perfect instagram-spot, and probably copied over and over. I get persuaded to get a picture taken, but I only stand there looking sheepishly, as I really feel the commotion around the bridge is too much for my taste.
Looking back towards the Friesenbergscharte.
Approaching the Olpererhütte.
Thankfully, despite having no beds available according to the website, both Martina and I get a bed. However, if we had not, I think there would still be plenty of time to get to the Pfitscher Joch Haus. In the throng on the terrace outside we manage to get ourselves a table. Michael and Sophia eats lunch together with us, before they head down to catch a bus back home. I have the wonderfully named graukasnockerl, cheese dumplings with melted butter, parmesan shavings and bacon coleslaw.
Quite crowded at the Olpererhütte, it is a very popular hut and visited by many day and sleepover guests.
Another early arrival, but I get the time going by taking small walks around the hut, the views are superb. Rain and thunder are suddenly passing by outside, making the guests escape inside, but in its wake, the weather leaves behind a wonderful double rainbow. Not giving up on the clouds, the sky is still changing. I must admit that the cabin has a stunning location, not to mention that the cabin itself is nice. I eat dinner together with Martina and Enrique. They go earlier to bed than I do, and in the evening I sit inside in the dark and watch the lights from a solitary car move around the lake far below (I cannot see the lake itself).
A wonderful view of the Olpererhütte and Schlegeisspeicher lake with a double rainbow.
Double rainbow after the passing thunderstorm.
The walk has really improved and gathered momentum in terms of how much I enjoy it compared to the earliest days, but that is also to expect after eleven days on the way. Another good dream day today. I have now left the Tux Alps and has entered the Zillertal Alps, the last of the Alps before the Dolomites. Tomorrow, I believe I will be in Italy.
Evening view of the Schlegeisspeicher lake and mountains behind from the Olpererhütte.
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