Distance: 25.4km (133.0km), time spent: 7:24.
Weather: Clear blue sky, thunderstorm.
The Karwendel Alps are an impressive ridgeline formed of limestone running from west to east (or the other way depending on how you see it), consisting of an equally impressive line of jugged peaks rising to over 2500m. Having finished with what is called the Bavarian pre-Alps (the Benediktenwand), it is also the first of the Alps the trail is passing over. Despite the miserable low clouds, the hike over the Benediktenwand was great, but now I am ready for the real deal, putting my feet in the Alps for the first time. Finally seeing a clear sky outside, is also extremely welcome.
Inside Gasthaus Post Vorderriß, this room is now only used for breakfast, but was normally open in the evenings too.
I find myself having breakfast in the room which I had hoped to sit down and relax in yesterday evening. From another guest on a motorbike trip I learn that they now only use this room for breakfast, but that they also used to to have this room open in the evening before. Something changed. He said he missed those times.
Roadwalk from Vorderriß, Vorderskopf at the back.
Morning light through trees next to the road.
Albeit the scenery around Vorderriß is brimming with mountains, it is no getting away from the fact that the first part of the hike today goes straight along a paved road. Thankfully the wonderful weather takes away some of the awareness of walking on a road, and it is not so busy either. Looming ahead is the 1858m summit of Vorderskopf. The others are walking together a little bit ahead, with me trailing behind. Not much water is actually running through the Risßach river now. After walking for about 4.5km, I arrive at the Oswaldhütte, a small restaurant in a farm. Good spot and time for a coffee break.
Hinterriß.
Narrow path towards the Johannestal.
Leaving the Oswaldhütte, I also leave Germany shortly after and enter into Austria on the Grenzbrücke. I am grateful to also leave the road shortly after that again, walking on a gravel track the rest of the way to Hinterriß. Pleasant enough, but I am starting to yearn for climbing up into the mountains above now. A little brownish snake slithers its way across the track. A fun fact about Hinterriß, it can only be reached by road from Germany (the same road I have been walking on).
Narrow gorge with the Johannesbach river running at the bottom, the Karwendel Alps main ridge in the distance.
There is a small museum here, attached to the National Park visitor centre, informing about the natural and cultural history of the Karwendel Alps. While the others are continuing ahead, I stop for some food at the restaurant attached to the Hotel Gasthof zur Post, eating a plain simply bratwürst. Suddenly a loud blaring alarm goes off in the village. All the others are all calm, so I stay calm too, but cannot wonder what it is for. A waiter answers my confusion and confirms my guess by telling me that is was a regular check of the emergency alarm.
Walk through the Johannestal valley, on one of the detours off the broad gravel track.
The beginning of the climb, leaving Hinterriß, has you walking through a bright forest on a wide gravel track, before it leaves it for a narrow footpath. Gradually I gain ground, before making the turn up into what is the Johannestal valley. Views are dominated by trees blocking the view, but then I emerge out of them and find myself looking down a narrow gorge. I get so excited by the view of the gorge that I have to walk back to the other side of the gorge after crossing it on a small bridge. Cutting through the bottom of the gorge is the Johannesbach river, now with the main Karwendel ridge rising in the background.
The main ridgeline of the Karwendel Alps.
Paramount in the horizon is that impressive ridgeline, dominating the view in the direction I am walking. Up the Johannestal, Der Traumpfad follows a dirt road (shared by the Bike Trail Tirol, beware of bikers coming fast down on the track) with occasional detours off the dirt road. The signs announcing where the route leaves the track are elusive and I miss at least one of these detours. Clouds are appearing on the sky, looking benevolent at first.
Looking back down the Johannestal, notice the mountains at the other side of the valley at the bottom, all clad in green.
The Karwendel Alps and the Bike Trail Tirol, the river running dry.
Even though the views are majestic and the weather is still good, there is something amiss, I am not entirely there in my mind. Maybe it is the broad path I am walking on that is responsible for that feeling, I always prefer those narrow winding paths before those broad and easily accessible tracks. On the other hand, it could just be tiredness, although the broad path makes for easy hiking. Water no longer flows in the river next to the trail, only the grey outline of the rocks at the bottom of it. Another biker comes wheeling past (the Karwendelhaus is a popular destination for bikers).
Kleiner Ahornboden.
Chalets and ancient maple trees at Kleiner Ahornboden.
Closer to the spectacular Karwendel ridge, the scenery gets more impressive. A sheer mountain wall rising in the distance is tangible, rising almost immediately next to you makes it feel intimidating. After having walked for about four hours since leaving Vorderriß, I arrive at the alpine meadow of Kleiner Ahornboden. Here ancient maple trees rises up from the verdant ground, a couple of traditional chalets lies in the shade of trees and a memorial to a Hermann Von Barth found (the old alpinist associated with the discovery of this mountain region and numerous first ascents of the surrounding peaks). A bit away, up on a hill opposite of where I am going, I see the Falkenhütte, now closed.
A thunderstorm approaching the Karwendel, view back from the climb up towards the Hochalmsattel.
Everything changes when the path leaves the Kleiner Ahornboden with its ancient maple trees and traditional built cabins. The path no longer is a broad easy track, but narrows down to a welcome path, ascending. Looking back across the valley, the announced thunderstorm has made its appearance, a dark sky has formed above and behind the mountains. And then suddenly everything fell into place, I feel calm and satisfied, more in my element. I am also walking more or less with the others now, Lea, Stefan, Michal, Julia and Miriam.
Walk up towards Hochalmsattel.
Coming out of the trees, the horizon has become darker, but there are still sunlight visible. Light and dark. The view is a mix of dark green, grey and dark blue. The first thunderclap is heard, the others seems to worry about not reaching the Karwendelhaus in time. Somewhere above me is the Birkkarspitz, the highest peak in the ridge at 2749m. I can see a cross high up, but that is the Hochalmkreuz (2192m).
Dark sky above the Karwendel Alps.
Steady climbing, the track winds its way up towards the Hochalmsattel (1803m), hikers and thunderstorm racing. Dramatic, but wonderful views. Another religious icon (the Jochkreuz) stands at the top of the pass. The first raindrop is felt, but now we are over the highest point of today and has only a short walk down to the alpine hut. A large cabin of stone and wood (bigger than I expected it to be), the Karwendelhaus is wonderfully located high up, overlooking the deep Karwendeltal.
The last stretch before arriving at the Karwendelhaus.
I am happy to have booked in advance, it is Saturday and the cabin is fully packed with people, both hikers and bikers. Expecting to be put in a room with several others, I am surprised to see that they have given me a small room for myself. Julia and Miriam had not booked, and are a little bit nervous regarding a place to sleep, but it all works out. We arrived just in time, in the moment I enter the bath room to do a provisional body wash, the sky opens up its valves. Rain is pounding down outside, with a firework to display. No showers at the cabin, but if I wanted one I could just go out to get it.
My room in the Karwendelhaus.
With the weather outside, it is no wonder the cabin is so full of people. A lot are waiting, seeking shelter from the rain and thunder, hoping that it will pass so that they can hike or bike down again. Other people arrives, soaked. Common for all of them, is that they are happy and smiling. The atmosphere and mood is absolutely wonderful, but the people working at the hut is extremely busy. I am on half-board, so I get a three course dinner for the evening.
In the evening in Karwendelhaus, Miriam, Stefan, Lea, me, Julia and Michal.
The thunderstorm finally passes by, leaving behind a gorgeous red sky in its wake as the sun is setting behind the rugged mountains. People not staying the night are getting ready to go down again and I go out to enjoy the views. A wonderful evening on a day that just got progressively better as I got higher and higher up. Before going to sleep, I spend some time in my little room to myself, relaxing. Good thing about having my own room is that I do not bother other people if I were to stay longer up, but I doubt that I will do so today.
Sunset over the Alps after the passing of the thunderstorm.
Tomorrow will be another day seeing the same weather pattern, although the manager at the cabin is expecting the thunderstorm to arrive earlier than today. Good thing then that the high point of the hike will be at the start and not the end. My days of booking ahead is over, but seeing all the people here made me a little bit nervous regarding getting a bed tomorrow. A part of me is still discontent by not bringing with me a tent, but wild camping as I have heard is illegal here. That is however a problem I will face tomorrow, now I just fall asleep happy with the day.
Karwendelhaus overlooking the Karwendeltal.
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