Distance: 14.8km (163.9km), time spent: 5:35.
Weather: Clear sky, thunderstorm in the evening.
There is some strange differences between the various guidebooks for this hike. In the German guidebooks, the next stage of Der Traumpfad goes directly from Hallerangerhaus to the Glungezer Hütte, but that will be a seriously challenging day. Considering that after having walked all the way down to Hall in Tirol, you will then face a 2400m climb. Here is the catch, the German guidebooks omits all that by advicing the hikers to take a bus from Hall up to Tulfes, and from there take the cable car up to Tulfein Alm. The guidebook from Cicerone, does not. After all, this is a hike and are you not supposed to walk all the way to Venice? Ending the day in Hall in Tirol is then a good choice, but a good alternative would also be Tulfes, eating up some of the climb for the next day. Which is Lucas plan.
Lafatscher Rosskopf.
Spending the evening in Hall in Tirol is by every means more interesting than in Tulfes, so I will go there, meaning that after this day the others will be one day ahead of me. There is very little of climbing to do today, most of the hike will be a descent down to the town. And the bit of climbing to do is straight from the start. Like yesterday, only not as high up or as steep. I could see the wall I would go over today on the approach to the Hallerangerhaus yesterday.
Klettergarten Durchschlag.
Hiker on the engineered path from Hallerangerhaus towards Lafatscher Joch.
Dominating the view at the beginning is the white rock of Lafatscher Rosskopf. The valley below looks peaceful now in the clear sky, compared to yesterday. To get over that rocky wall, the trail utilizes a scree field wedged between the left side of the wall and the pinnacles of the Klettergarten Durchschlag. Parts of the path also appeared engineered, crossing over a small bridge over a small rift in the sides of the cliff. It is a beautiful morning hike. Overlooking the high Karwendel ridge is a cross.
Cross overlooking the central Karwendel Alps.
From the cross, the path goes easy on the gradients and slowly climbs up to the Lafatscher Joch, the highest point I will be today at 2081m. A gathering of hikers are at the pass, enjoying the great views of the Alps to the south, which will be the Hintertux Alps. There is word of another thunderstorm today, but where that will come from is hard to tell now, fascinating. I am toying with the idea of climbing the Speckkarspitze (2660m), towering above, and it is hard to let the idea go. In this lovely weather it is so tempting, but I have the long and hard climb facing me tomorrow also on my mind. When I abandon the idea and start walking down, I knew that I will regret that decision later today (but then again, maybe not tomorrow).
View from Lafatscher Joch, the Hintertux Alps in the background. The summit of Olperer be seen all back in the middle.
Descent from Lafatscher Joch, with Speckkarspitze towering above, a regretful decision not to climb up to the summit.
The walk down from the Lafatscher Joch pass looses about 1400m of altitude. Going down, it is captivating to see the clear line winding itself up the mountainside on the other side of the valley. It appear to cross straight over a large field of loose stones from this distance, ending at a steep zig-zag route going up to the Stempeljoch. When the weather is foul, the guidebook advices on not taking the main route and instead go down on a mountain road. What exactly makes me leave the main route and continue further towards the mountain road is a little bit of a curiousity mystery.
At the top of the Gamsköpfe, with its cross. Not important, but I do not think many Norwegians has been on top of this cliff (although you never know).
I think I was discontent about my previous decision and intent on investigating what all those markings on the map around the junction with the mountain road meant. Instead, by chance, I find a cliff that has a cross on top of it. Climbing to the top of the cliff requires using a fixed rope. It is somewhat nice views from the top and from a logbook I learn that the name of the cliff is Gamsköpfe, at 1700m. A strange sidekick.
Der Traumpfad going through the Isstal valley.
A narrow path through Isstal.
Returning to the main route, the trail goes through meadows and trees through the Isstal valley, with the Speckkarspitze still dominating above. At first it appear strange that there should be need for an alternative route in bad weather, but then the trail suddenly drops down through trees on a muddy, treacherous and rather steep forest path. The Monastery of St Magdalena is long lost, hit by an earthquake in the 17th century. Now there is a restaurant here, and the remaining church, but both are closed when I pass by.
Pathside altar just before the Monastery of St Magdalena.
Amusing sculpture at St Magdalena.
A narrow path carries me above the valley, Halltal, suddenly dropping steep down and emerging above a road going down the valley. Fences, ropes and boardwalks aids on the last part leading down to the road, but thankfully the trail does not go on the road, instead following a pleasant path alongside it. Eventually it joins the road, which I follow all the way down to Hall in Tirol, as expected not very exciting.
A memorial cross right next to the path.
Pleasant descent through the Halltal.
Down in Hall, I meet most of the others, they are about to take the bus up to Tulfes. We say farewell, but they believe that we will meet again, I am not so sure. All the different accommodation options here have one thing in common, it will be an expensive night. I end up at the Goldener Engl (at €90).
Hall in Tirol.
Why did I not climb the Speckkarspitze? Arriving early, I know I was right, I do regret not making the climb. Thankfully, Hall in Tirol is charming town with plenty of things to see. And should I run out of options, then Innsbruck is just five minutes away by train. There are some delightful narrow streets here, with old signs adorning the buildings, probably indicating that the buildings are old here too. The Pfarrkirche St. Nikolaus church is visually overwhelming with its painted roof inside. A tower is the only remains of the castle here, but is clearly visible. Otherwise, plenty of nice cafés and restaurants. And a street art project turning benches into art (still being benches though).
Inside Pfarrkirche St. Nikolaus.
The weather pattern of the last days is still holding. There is no escaping the thunderstorm today either. Booming and billowing in over the mountains from the south, the dark clouds filled with rain and fire(works) descends upon Hall. A time good as none to escape to my room and rest a little, while the storm unleashes its fury outside with lightning dancing on the sky. Venturing out when the storm is moving on and assaulting the Karwendel Alps, yields a dramatic view of the town with the mountains behind. With the bulk of the storm going away, the afternoon sun peeks out from the sky, giving a marvellous light to the narrow streets.
Thunderstorm above Hall in Tirol.
The Goldener Engl has a traditional beer cellar, Augustiner Keller, in which I eat a traditional dish for dinner, Farmhouse 'Gröstl'. Which is kind of roast meat and potatoes with a fried egg (served in a pan here), a dish we would call 'pytt i panne' back home in Norway (if you try google translate on that name, you will get several translation suggestions, one of them truly absurd).
Beautiful old houses in the narrow streets of Hall.
Half-way counting as a zero day, although I did leave about 15km behind me. The best views of the day was naturally at the start of the walk and the walk down was nice until the last part on the road into Hall. Adding a pleasant afternoon and evening makes for an approved day. A week on the way, and despite now being in a quite large place, I do feel more in the thick of it than on the first days of my hike. And it will only go upwards from here on, at least tomorrow.
Wonderful light above the Pfarrkirche St. Nikolaus church.
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