Distance: 16.1km (149.1km), time spent: 8:41.
Weather: Nice weather, then rain and some thunder.
I have strange dreams in the night, maybe it is not without a reason that the trail is called Der Traumpfad. Waking up to a clear sky, I wake up to a day that will take me further into the heart of the Karwendel Alps, crossing the mighty main ridge on the way. No place booked for the end of the walk, leaving me open for options, but I have my eyes set on the next Alpine hut on the way, the Hallerangerhaus. My half-board breakfast gets me going in the morning with yoghurt with granola and four heavy slices of bread with toppings.
The Karwendelhaus overlooking the Karwendeltal valley in the morning.
There is no mercy to be found at the beginning, from the Karwendelhaus the trail drops you straight onto a steep climb, assisted by cables and bolts of steel. If the climb feels grueling, rest assured that the reward is great views of the Karwendeltal valley below and the mountains behind. Barriers guards you against avalanches, but there is of course little chance of that now.
Climb from Karwendelhaus.
Hiking up the barren landscape of Schlauchkar, on the way up to the Schlauchkarsattel. Most of the climb up in the morning is in shade, but now I am getting closer to getting some sunlight.
The others left early in the morning, to be sure of not catching the announced thunderstorm while up at the Schlauchkarsattel. I am, on the other hand, quite positive that I will be far below the pass on the other side when the shit hits the fan so to say. However, in bad weather it is advised to walk down to Sharnitz and around the mountain, instead of taking the high pass over the Schlauchkarsattel. I am though grateful that I am not put to the test of having to decide whether to go around or not.
View from the Schlauchkarsattel, looking down at the long and steep descent from the pass.
After the steel cables lets you go, the climb is on a steady path with a good surface to walk on going around the sides of the Hochalmkreuz with expanding views (it is tempting to make a detour to that summit, but I decide against pushing my luck too much). Having climbing steadily for about half an hour, the surface slowly changes from green to grey and I leave the few scattered Dwarf Pines behind. The barren landscape in the shade of the Birkkarspitz has taken over. Winding slowly upwards on scree, the walk turns into a grind, on an uneven and sometimes less defined path.
View down from the Birkkarspitz, seeing the path that I have climbed up from.
Gradients are increasing by the numbers the higher I get, looking back (or rather down) I can see the path as a clear line through the grey scree, with other hikers at regular intervals. It seems that this will be the most numerous day so far, in terms of seeing other hikers. Miriam and Michal is almost at the top of the pass, the Schlauchkarsattel at 2620m. A thin edge that separates the steep ascent from an even more steeper descent, which is one of the renowned descents of Der Traumpfad. Before I tackle that part, I have a peak to climb.
At the summit of the Birkkarspitz, next to the gipfelkreuz.
Standing some 130 metres above me is the Birkkarspitz (2749m), the highest peak in the central Karwendel ridge. Climbing up is relatively easy, with fixed cables to assist on the way, care should still be taken. On the way up, I pass by a small emergency hut, the Birkkar-hütte. There were actually some people that spent the night here, getting caught in the thunderstorm yesterday. In the afternoon at the Karwendelhaus yesterday, I met a man who was anxious about his friends who had not come down from the climb over the Schlauchkarsattel, but he had later got news that they were fine and safe in this little hut. Reminiscing of my stay in the shelter at Auchope Rigg on the Pennine Way (no comparison though), this looks like a hut I could have enjoyed spending an evening and night in.
Birkkarspitz.
Julia, Lea and Stefan are at the summit when I arrive, getting ready to leave. They were up here early and had eaten their breakfast here. I do envy them that a little and the view they had, clouds are engaging the peak as we speak, obscuring parts of the view. It is still great though. In the far distance I know I can see the highest mountain in Germany, the Zugspitze, but I am too unfamiliar with this mountain range to point it out. Mountains, peaks, summits and ridgelines appears in all directions. In the barren landscape below, I can still see people slowly moving upwards, like small black spots in a row. Johannestal, where I walked up yesterday, is now mostly hidden beyond the clouds, but sometimes I catch nice glimpses of the scenery. More people are climbing up the gipfelkreuz at the summit when I climb down again.
Descent from the Schlauchkarsattel.
Descending from the Schlauchkarsattel is an altogether different matter, as descents always are in comparison to going up. The path goes straight down the steep side of the pass, demanding care both where to put your feet and hands. Further down, steel cables, bolts and handles are aiding me on the climb down, and as always, this is something I truly enjoy. Thankfully, I have no fear of heights, but more fear of other people at places like these. Confirmed when an another hiker higher up sets off a stone, making it tumble down the steep mountainside, only to miss me by a few seconds as it hurdles past me on its way down. Had I just been a few seconds quicker, that stone could have hit me in the head. People need to take care when going down. Looking back up after finishing the hardest part of the descent, it is a little bit difficult to believe that I have actually climbed down that section.
The group descending towards Kastenalm.
A butterfly found my knee a good place to sit on while I took a rest on the climb down.
It is still a long way down (somewhere between 1300 and 1400 metres in altitude), but the walk down is beautiful, despite starting off on a steep path through scree. Having caught up with Julia, Miriam, Michal, Lea and Stefan, we continue together downwards through a valley enclosed by huge cliffs on each side. The trail alternates between being good to walk on and treacherous, there are some stretches where it is almost easier to almost run down (doing a sort of scree run) as each step always lets loose the stones beneath our feet. When grass becomes more prominent on the ground, we find sheep grazing next to the trail.
Lower down on the wonderful hike dow from Schlauchkarsattel.
Patches of snow still lingers in the valley, we had been warned to cross them, but at one point we see no other option than doing exactly that. As we get further and further down, it becomes more and more improbable that we have come down from where we have (without climbing equipment). You need to get up close to see that it actually is possible. On the way down, I do fall down on my back once, on a muddy stretch of path. Almost at the bottom of the descent, I sit down for a break, making another mental note of how unbelievable the climb down is, when a tall woman comes hiking by. We pass by some few pleasantries, before she continues further. It was the first of several meetings, but I did not know it then of course.
The improbable descent. Looking back up from where I have come down from, it almost looks like it is impossible that you could get down that way. The Birkkarspitz in the middle of the picture, the Schlauchkarsattel to the left of it.
It took me about five hours from the Karwendelhaus over the Schlauchkarsattel and Birkkarspitz to get down on the other side. The landscape awaiting me at the bottom of the valley looks like a dried out riverbed, with only whitewashed stones left behind, deep in a valley enclosed by mighty mountains. Walking in the riverbed does not last long, however, the path enters a gravel track, which I follow to the meadow and farm at Kastenalm, where refreshments and food are sold during the season. The others are here, having continued when I took a break earlier. The sky is definitely putting on a darker hue, so we are all glad for being finished with the difficult part of the hike for today. I enjoy being together with the others, but sometimes I feel the language is a little bit of barrier between us.
A dry river or a large field of loose stones awaited at the bottom of the valley.
With the thunderstorm now approaching, they are all eager to arrive at our destination for today, the Hallerangerhaus. Not long after leaving the cozy Kastenalm, we feel the wet embrace of the first drops from the sky. The trail is now slowly climbing up into a forested valley, the views back now dominated by the central Karwendel ridge bearing the full front of the thunderstorm. All grey and dark, impenetrable. Thunderclaps are heard, but not directly overhead.
The group leaving Kastenalm, climbing up towards Hallerangerhaus.
Although it is raining and I can hear the groans and moans coming from the sky, I do not feel like rushing forward. And I am still walking at the bottom of a valley, not at the top of a high and exposed pass as before. The last part of the day, the easy haul up to the Hallerangerhaus, goes through the forested valley, passing by rivers, streams and waterfalls on the way. As height is gained, the landscape opens up to alpine pastures. All grey in the direction I am heading, but behind me patches of blue sky are still holding back the thunderstorm. It is a melancholic walk and I enjoy it.
Thunderstorm over the Karwendel ridge.
When I arrive at the Hallerangerhaus, the others have all arrived some time before and has gone to their rooms, except for Julia. Like me, she has also not booked for the night and we are both told to wait while they are trying to see if they can fit us in. It is pretty much full here. Julia exclaims that she will not walk anymore today. While waiting, I spend some time in the common room of the cabin, getting to talk a little bit with Martina, the tall woman that I met earlier.
Absam, a waterfall next to the path.
In the end, both Julia and I are getting a bed in one of the dormitories. There is another hut close by, the Halleranger Alm, so if I had not got a bed here I would try there. Finishing my shower, I discover that I have got a tick, where did that tiny bastard come from? It looks like it has just bitten me too, which is a good sign though, I quickly get it out with help of Stefan and Lea. They have a better tick remover that I have (mine is for the bigger ticks back home here in Norway, this one was really small).
Another waterfall higher up.
Joining our little group at dinner is Lucas, doing a section of the hike. For dessert I have the huge and sweet germknödel, very good, but it lies heavily in my stomach afterwards.
Looking down the alpine pastures of Lafatscher on the way to the Hallerangerhaus.
Hallerangerhaus.
The passing of the thunderstorm and rain yields another wonderful sunset, with fiery sunlight underneath the clouds. The colors are absolutely stunning. A constant distraction from sitting inside and talking with the group.
Germknödel. This stuffed bun is good, but it lies heavily in the stomach after eating it.
Quite possible the best day so far. The stage from Hochalm to Halleranger is true Alpine hiking, beginning with the ascent and descent of one of the most famous mountain passes on Der Traumpfad, the Schlauchkarsattel. After descending all the way to the bottom of the valley, the hike through the forested valley adds a touch of diversity to the walk. And it all ended in a glorious sunset.
Stunning, colorful and fiery sunset at the Hallerangerhaus.
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