Distance: 25.9km (453.9km), time spent: 8:41.
Weather: Clear blue sky, smoke(!).
This was to be an exciting day in many ways. I did not sleep that well in the albergue, due to the usual occurence of a snorer, albergues are magnets in that way. From Vila do Conde you have the option of returning to the central route if you already feel tired of the walk next to the sea, below the Mosteiro de Santa Clara there is a link route taking you to São Pedro de Rates. There are some at the albergue that are going that way. I first leave for breakfast at the same place that I had dinner yesterday, then I leave to explore the coast further.
Vila de Conde, Mosteiro de Santa Clara and the Praça da Republica in the morning.
Praça Vasco da Gama with the Igreja Matriz reflected in a fountain.
True to my own tradition, I have to walk back to the Praça da Republica to continue, this time it will be the Camino. It is a nice little walk through the small city again, with tiles making me stop instead of red traffic lights. I love how the town hall, the Igreja da Misericórdia and the Igreja Matriz are reflected in the water fountain at the Praça Vasco da Gama. A pilgrim couple walks by, but after exchanging the usual pleasantries it becomes clear that they are on the wrong way, they thought they were on their way to São Pedro de Rates.
Streetsign in Póvoa de Varzim.
The walk back to the sea (at Póvoa de Varzim) is not so special, or maybe it is just my yearning to be back that makes it less interesting. Póvoa de Varzim itself appear to be a nice little town though, with a fortress to sport. The Nossa Senhora da Conceição fortress next to a large panel with azulejos on. The tiles depicts various scenes from the town and old times. I like the streetsigns that has images of various old Portuguese vessels on them. And the café next to the Santiago church is perfectly placed for a café com leite.
Nossa Senhora da Conceição fortress.
Then the sea beckons and I am back on the wooden esplanades and boardwalks, although there are some hard surface too. A lone lifeguard sits on the beach, but there are hardly anyone to guard on the beach. In the distance I can see smoke, it appear that I am heading straight towards it. Later, the only people I see on the beach are local foragers gathering seaweed. I wonder what the curious building looking like a mushroom is. It is a lovely walk, but still slightly different than yesterdays boardwalk.
Azulejo wall in Póvoa de Varzim.
Strange mushroom shaped house.
The governed path takes me ever closer to the smoke, passing by several heaps of gathered seaweed. Coming closer, the smoke increases in intensity and I can see the fumes flowing straight over the boardwalk. The smoke comes from a farmer burning his crops next to the beach. People have stopped up, not knowing what to do, some are advising not to go. I can see some pilgrims taking the advised detour, on the road nearby. I decide to push through. Taking a deep breath and putting my shirt over my nose and mouth, I step into the fumes. The world disappears. I can see vague shapes of grass in the smoke. It stings a little bit in the nose. Maybe not the best idea, but I come through on the other side. There, I cannot see the other side, just a wall of smoke. It was kind of cool though.
Seaweed foragers.
Walking on a boardwalk, approaching smoke.
I got thirsty, so I have to sit down at a café, meeting two guys from Madrid. Boardwalks frame my path onward, through sanddunes and sparse vegetation, with the sea and fishingboats next to me. I pass by an old windmill without its sails. Feeling a gentle sway as I put my foot in front of the another as I walk.
Looking back at the smoke after having walked through it.
Today, the route does not follow the coast all the way. Near Aguçadoura, the Camino leaves the beach and the boardwalk, replacing it with a less interesting roadwalk. Feeling the need for food, I detour off the Camino going to the Orbitur camping site. It should later turn out to be a good decision. Here, a walk through a completely round tunnel leads out onto the beach. The route becomes a little bit better afterwards, both scenery- and hunger-wise. Especially when the routes takes to the woods instead of the open cultural landscape.
A pilgrim sitting down and making out the places the Camino will pass by.
Boardwalks and an old windmill near Aguçadoura.
In Apúlia there is another Igreja Matriz (I ask again, how many of these are there?). Inside, there is a journal that pilgrims can write their names in. There is also another pilgrim here, June from Taiwan, and we share the way from here. She has however not having had anything to eat for a long time and is really hungry, but there is a little bit to go from here to get to a café apparently. Fortunately, I do have some candy in my backpack as I always carry with me some for occasions like this. It is not proper food, but it will give some energy at least.
The Igreja Matriz in Apúlia, with June inside.
Forest walk after Apúlia.
In Fão we meet Klaus and Tulle from Denmark, coming from the opposite direction, but they are going to the wrong way. And so we become four. All eager for something to drink, we sit down in a café, where we meet a woman from Hannover in Germany that runs the Camino (actually running most of the way and then walks the rest). Both June, Klaus and Tulle are going to Esposende and the Hostel 11, but I had planned to go longer. I had set my sight on the Albergue São Miguel in Marinhas, but now that I have met good company, I decide to change my plans. Calling Hostel 11, I get the last bed available.
Some wonderful tiles.
Faded mural in Fão, rolls-bar.
From Fão it is a short walk to Esposende, passing by a Camino monument before walking into the town. The Hostel 11 is also a nice place. The German girls I met yesterday are also here. I get news from Joan that she and Paige are staying in Fão. So they are not far away.
A boat fountain in Esposende.
Esposende is also a nice little town. To get dinner, June, Klaus, Tulle and I walks through the streets, taking notice of the church and the fountain forming a boat of the water. We have to take a beer while we wait for the restaurant to open, but that is fortunate. There is a wonderful sunset over the Rio Cávado. At the restaurant we order seabass, which tastes excellent. It also costs more than the usual pilgrim menu, but it was worth it.
Sunset in Esposende over the Rio Cávado.
June had bought with her a bottle of wine for the dinner, but naturaly we could not drink it there. All the better, then we could sit down at the hostel afterward and have a glass of wine to celebrate a great day on the Caminho Portugués da Costa.
Eating dinner (seabass) together with June, Klaus and Tulle.
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