Distance: 34.5km (98.9km / 1119.2km).
Weather: A good mix of nice weather and rain.
Just one more night or two days of walking before I once again will walk into Santiago de Compostela. Leaving Santiago on the Camino de Finisterre, I normally would prefer going further than Negreira, Vilaserio is to me a better place to stop. There are several reasons for that, one is that I find it too short of a walk, another is that I have not found Negreira to be such an interesting place. In the opposite direction, the are not the same, if I go to Negreira today, I will have a shorter walk into Santiago tomorrow. That would be nice.
Olveiroa sign illuminated in the wee hours of the day.
Eating breakfast at Casa Loncho (the same that I had dinner at yesterday), I talk to another pilgrim. A girl that has walked all the way from her home in Stuttgart, which is very cool. I kind of like that. Just put your back on, walk out of your door and start walking. No travel by cars, buses, trains or planes to your starting point. Just out the door and your adventure has begun, your home is your starting point. If we Norwegians set such a rule on our walks, meaning no travel by any means of transportation except our own feet, we would have to walk a very long way to get to Santiago de Compostela. That would be a Camino to remember.
Sunrise behind Monte Aro.
I have not walked far out of Olveiroa in the nice morning light before I meet the first pilgrim of the day. There are more albergues here, two not far away in Ponte Olveira, so it is not that unexpected. On the other hand, there appear to be more and more common that pilgrims are waking up earlier and start walking for a long time in the dark before it gets light. I do not know if it is out of fear of not getting a place to sleep at the end of the day, but I feel a little bit sad at this trend on the Camino. I love to start up early in the dark, true, but only just before it gets bright.
A glow around Monte Aro as the sun is rising from behind, view from Mirador de Corzón.
When I walk around the hill above Corzón, the sun will soon rise above Monte Aro ahead. I can see the fangs of the sun clawing its way through the clouds. This time too I cannot refrain from climbing up to the Mirador de Corzón. It has a great view of the area, but the sunset above Monte Aro happened on my way up. As soon as the sun was visible above the low mountain, shining bright for a short while, it hid itself behind some clouds. Instead of going back down, I decide to walk a little bit further on the ridge at the top of the small hill. Then returning to the Camino after walking down on a path further ahead.
The small hamlet of Lago with a rainbow above.
Light on the Camino going over Monte Aro.
In clear colors towards the blue sky, there is a rainbow, if that is not an omen of something I do not know what it is. And in the hamlet of Lago, I can feel the first raindrops. Fortunately there is a new albergue here with a bar, so I can seek shelter from the rain that suddenly poured down after the first few drops of water. Perfect timing in a way, I was craving a café con letche. The rain stops while I am having my coffee, only to splash down again after I have just left the bar, forcing me to make a hasty retreat to put on my raincoat.
Detour route to Monte Aro.
Drama in the sky, view from Monte Aro.
The route the Camino takes around Monte Aro seems to have been rerouted. Before, it went furter north, but now it goes closer to the top of the small mountain. Although, the previous route was fine enough, the new route is an improvement. It takes you further up, with better views of the surroundings. It also makes me climb all the way up to the top of Monte Aro, it is a short and easy climb up. From the top I can look out and see the changes in the weather awaiting me. Moving over the landscape are scattered rainclouds, some of them is dramatic in appearance. Well worth the detour, with good views of the Galician landscape around. A viewpoint (mirador) is passed by down on the Camino later, but the views are far better from the top.
View from Monte Aro.
Walking eastwards from Monte Aro, the weather becomes as seen from the top. Rainbows in the sky and with rain on and off. I do not bother having my raincoat on either, as I know I will get tired of taking it on and off. It works fine, when it is not raining, my clothes dries quickly anyway in the hot weather. Hard surface gets such a fine shine in the sun after is has rained. I pass by a large group of pilgrims dressed in ponchos, which looks like an organized group tour.
Descent from Monte Aro.
I recoqnize the scenery since I have walked through it before, but it feels nice to walk in the other direction, giving me another view of the Camino. The landscape here is traditional Galican farmland, with farms, hamlets and small villages scattered about the slightly undulating fields. Mostly it is a quiet walk through less populated areas.
A pilgrim group (probably organized) with Monte Aro behind.
Before I arrive in Vilaserio, I come across an older woman, looking as she is a little bit lost. She kindly asks if she can walk together with me, assuring me that she can walk fast if she has to, which is fine by me. Her name is Maria and she has walked all the way from Vezelay, then walked out to Finisterre and is now on her way back to Santiago de Compostela to finish her Camino. Another impressive walk. In Vilaserio I have to stop for lunch, and she buys me the lunch in gratitude for me letting her walk together with me. She did not need to, but I am grateful. Vilaserio is not big, but now there are three albergues here. Two private ones and the official.
Crosses and angels at the Igrexa de Santa Mariña de Maroñas in Santa Mariña.
From Vilaserio we ascend up, using the road at first, before taking off on a forest path. It is still blue sky visible above us, but it is getting smaller for each step now. I have always liked this kind of forlorn way. Walking with Maria learns me several things about her. Firstly, she is really fond of trees. Secondly, she is really fond of cruceiros. And she can walk fast when she need to. Often I look back and find her not there, only to hear a fast patter of footsteps from behind, knowing that she has caught up with me after looking at some trees or cross. It is a little bit strange, but she is a pleasant company.
Fonte de Cornado.
The sky keeps on getting darker and in the horizon it is very black. I wonder if there is thunder approaching too, but only another rainbow materializes. A more constant rainfall does come however, which lasts a lot longer than the previous ones. A reminder of the bleak weather forecast we (Kevin, Kari and I) saw at the end of our Camino Real de Invierno. I cannot complain, I have not had much rain on my 40 days of walking since starting of in Lisboa.
Dark and ominous clouds and a rainbow.
Between A Peña and Zas are the forest paths we walk through especially beautiful now. The wet weather makes the scenery we walk through so much vivid, as the autumn colors gets more accentuated when it is raining. It is a good mixture of warm orange and verdant green. Of course, for Maria that poses a problem, she has to stop up ever so often to look at the trees. I find that fascinating. Come to think of it, it is just another interest, another thing that catches the eye of people.
A beautiful autumnal forest path, on the way towards Negreira.
Another beautiful forest path, on the way towards Negreira.
In the rain, although less than earlier, we arrive in Negreira. Passing underneath the gates of the Pazo do Cotón, which is the most interesting place of Negreira. This old noble house was built in the 14th century, originally a medieval castle. In the small stone houses lined up in the street after the gate, there are various stalls, some of them that will be small shops and cafés. In the same street above the old mansion there are also other old buildings. One of them and old pharmacy.
Horreo in Zas.
This time, I have chosen to stay at the En el Carmen albergue. It is a great choice. Maria had not originally planned to walk this far today, but following in my footsteps she had ended up walking all the way here too. Thankfully there is a place for both of us. A great Camino walk, but we are both happy now to get inside from the rain.
The Pazo de Coton in Negreira.
During the afternoon and evening, I barely leave the albergue. Only taking a extremely short walk out. It is raining heavily outside, too. We got everything we need at the albergue. In the ground floor there is a bar and cafe, and also a restaurant. Listening to the rain outside, it is nice to sit inside and rest. And then we have a nice dinner at place, I have spaghetti and salmon for dinner. Definitely the best time I have had in Negreira.
A pharmacy, another old house in Negreira.
Highlights of the day was again the visit to the Mirador de Corzón, the climb up to Monte Aro, the lovely forest paths towards Negreira in the rain, and surprisingly the evening in the albergue in Negreira. Tomorrow I will be in Santiago de Compostela for the third time on this journey, my quattro Caminos.
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