Distance: 26.4km (581.7km), time spent: 7:10.
Weather: Hot and sunny.
I wake up early this morning and is on the way before dawn, quite the antithesis to the previous morning. Somehow I have missed this early mornings. The quiet walk in the dark, only lit up by the small light from my headlamp. I remember the second day of this Camino, when I left Alpriate early in the morning, it seems so far away now (it is 19 days ago). Then the arrival of the sun and the light, a glow spreading on the natural ceiling. On the other hand, walking too long in the dark is not what I feel is what a Camino is about. I have little understanding of the pilgrims waking up in the middle of the night and then spend most of the walk in the dark.
Early in the morning outside Hospedería Pazo Pías in A Ramallosa.
Vigo is the most populated and one of the largest cities in Galicia and I had read that it was worth taking the trip down to the city centre. The Camino does not go through the city itself, instead skirting around it. Hence, I had hoped to make some headway today, getting there in time to explore the city. At least I have that to thank for my early departure. Back to my walk in the dark. As the sky has turned slightly brighter, I walk past the gate of an old and large mansion, passing underneath an arch dimly lit by the streetlights. The people living here seem to be aware of the Camino going past, I find several tiles and signs with Camino paraphernalia on them.
Camino passing underneath an old arch.
An old cruceiro in the morning.
Then I am reasonable sure that my guidebook deviates from where the Camino really is going, although the author could be excused as there are yellow arrows on the route described in the guidebook. Before the Camino, according to the yellow arrows, crosses over a highway there is a Camino milestone pointing to a small track going next to a creek. I follow that path for a little while, but since both my guidebook and some yellow arrows insisted on crossing over the highway on a blue pedestrian overpass, I walk back. I then believe that I am not on the actual Camino, and find it to be true when I join another road later. Further back on that road, I can see another Camino milestone. So I believe that what I have walked is more like a shortcut, but who made it I cannot tell. The actual Camino, I believe, would pass through Nigrán.
Buen Camino!
The sunrise finally arrives, I catch it between the legs of a horse, then the Camino passes through a short woodland path. Now I am really hungry, for I found no place for breakfast in A Ramallosa in the morning and has not passed by any café either so far. In Príegue I do come across a café finally, having to momentarily take a break from my breakfast to run after a pilgrim that I see goes in the wrong direction. Finally got my craving for food and the usual cafe con leche satisfied, I head back up towards the Camino.
The Cíes islands seen from the Camino.
A lovely woodland path on the way towards Vigo.
There has been moments of peace between the roadwalks today, and with that I mean paths through woods. Shortly after the turnoff I would have taken if I had walked to Saiáns yesterday, there is another woodland path waiting for me. With views of the Cíes islands. It is a lovely path, with the sun staring like an eye at me through the trees. Both broad and narrow, with fallen autumn leaves on the floor. At the end lies the remains of an old mill, the Muiños da Fraga de Gortade.
Muiños da Fraga de Gortade.
Finding myself at the junction where the Albergue O Freixo variant leaves the original Camino, my mind is telling me to stop and think. I had in mind getting early to Vigo, but I have also heard that the last and long walk into the city is boring. Some people has also recommended taking a taxi instead. When I am reading that this detour will be longer, but that it will be a 5.2km of forest path to the albergue, I have no doubt as to which route I will take. It will add about 2.3km to the day, but it should be a far more pleasant walk than the walk through the outskirts of Vigo.
Path on the Albergue O Freixo detour.
Wonderful forest walk towards the Albergue O Freixo.
It is such a great feeling to know that you have taken the correct decision. The O Freixo detour is wonderful. Tall eukalyptus trees stands like totems next to the path, forgotten places appear in the vegetation, old mills, all the time while the sun shines through the trees. For those contemplate taking this route, know that it will also involve more climbing than the Camino going lower down. Higher above me I spot a small chapel at the top of a hill, which is bad news for my curiosity, I have to hold on to my reins to keep me from going up.
Path next to river where the Camino leaves the Parque de Castrelos.
Graffiti wall just before reaching Vigo.
Albergue O Freixo looks like a nice enough place, but is of course closed when I am there, so is the café. This might be a good place to go to if you do not intend to visit Vigo. From the albergue and back to the Camino comes the problem with this route, the route down is not as good waymarked as the path to the albergue. At one point, I must have missed a marker and continues down on a road, ultimately leaving me to seek help at a local café. They point me in the correct direction, and after some uncertainty I find myself back in the line of yellow arrows. The detour joins the Camino again after entering the Parque de Castrelos from the south.
Plaza de la Constitución in Vigo.
Parque de Castrelos is a nice little park and probably a boon for those who has walked through the outskirts of Vigo. As the Czech couple we met earlier, who I now meet again when walking through the park. They were not particulary happy about their walk so far today. Not planning to go down to the city centre, they would continue a litte bit further outside Vigo. The exit of the park is through a nice little stroll next to a small river, ending at a wall with colorful graffiti on. From here on it is all city walk.
Dinoseto, the Vigo Tyrannosaur.
Rúa Urzáiz is where you should leave the Camino for the centre of Vigo, here the Camino turns away for the walk out of the city. It is about 2km down to the historical centre of Vigo from here. A walk I have to redo in the opposite direction tomorrow to get back on the Camino. I still arrive early enough, too early to get my room at my hotel too. Which is fine in the beginning, as I can go somewhere to have lunch while waiting, but I end up having to wait a longer time than wanted to get my room (and shower).
El Sireno, the merman of Vigo.
For the rest of the day, I go around to explore Vigo, but I fail to catch the vibe of this city. The old town is where I mainly put my focus on, which has some nice and narrow streets. It is the abundance of street art here that I mostly makes notice of. Street art that seemingly has gone modern in a way, some of them with a qr-code you can scan. The merman sculpture called 'El Sireno' is of course amusing. It is not that the city centre is bad or ugly, but I do not find it much interesting. Somehow I believe it would have been better to stay longer in Baiona and skip Vigo.
Sunset from the walls of the Castelo do Castro in Vigo.
June and Helen was also going here, and while Helen has to attend to some studies in the afternoon and evening, I meet up with June to look around and have dinner. The best part of Vigo is the Parque de Castro, at from the top of the old castle walls we can watch the lovely sunset behind the Cíes islands. The sea has turned a fiery red, as if set on fire when the sun is too close to the surface. As I try to capture the last breath of the sun, my camera is actually taking its last breath instead, running out of power (after some technical first aid, I manage to get my camera available for some more shots). When the light is out, we go down to have dinner.
June in the castle at Parque de Castro.
Castelo de Castro inside the Parque de Castro.
In the winding streets we spend some time trying to find a place, being a little bit picky and indecisive. Eventually we satisfies with a place, having a dinner that is good, but a little expensive. It has gotten late and after satisfying our hunger, we return to our lodgings, still intrigued by the street art. Camino de tiles and street art. Although I failed to appreciate Vigo in full, I am content with the day. My O Freixo detour made the walk better than I had expected it to be.
Street art on scooter in the old town of Vigo.
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