Distance: 27.0km (508.9km), time spent: 8:12.
Weather: Still sunny.
In the morning I meet up with June, Klaus and Tulle to get up to the basilica. We decide to share a taxi up, instead of taking the funicular. Almost perfectly timed, the sun has just risen above the hills to the southeast. From the west waves of clouds are coming rolling in from the sea, seeping towards Viana do Castelo, absorbing everything it passes. Only tall cranes and towering windmills reaches above the clouds. The Atlantic is barely visible, but outside the magnificent Basílica de Santa Luzia we are above the clouds.
Sunset over Viana do Castelo from Monte de Santa Luzia.
Inside, the basilica is large and open, and benefits from the three large rose-windows, providing illumination through the painted glass. A large chandelier hangs from the top of the dome. Beautiful on the inside as it was on the outside. I am glad I got the chance to see it from the inside. I had already eaten some breakfast, but June had brought with her some pastries and light breakfast that she shares with us. Basking in the morning sun outside the basilica, it is a perfect way to start the day.
Inside Basílica de Santa Luzia.
June and I are however not finished with the basilica yet. While Klaus and Tulle decides to go down again, June and I wants to go up. The entrance to the dome has just opened and we take the elevator and then some very narrow stairs up to the top (there is a traffic light here telling you if you can go down or up). The views are even better from up here, with the clouds now hiding the coast to the south from our eyes. I spot a ruin of what might have been a stately mansion, not far away from the Pousada. There is another elevator too, taking you up to a platform lower down than the dome, but now we find it is time to get down and continue our Camino.
View through the pillars from the top of the dome of Basílica de Santa Luzia.
Fog from the ocean comes rolling in over Viana do Castelo.
The host at my pension had told me that I should be following a path next to the coast instead. That route might be the official Camino in the future, but I feel obliged to follow the current official route. From Viana do Castelo, the Camino stick to the plan of walking some distance away from the coast, although visible most of the time. It is a little bit tedious finding the way out of the city. I believe both June, Klaus and Tulle are in front of me when I finally gets on the way.
June walking down the narrow staircase of the dome.
As the Monte de Santa Luzia with its sanctuary disappears on the top of the hill above me, the Camino passes through an almost endless line of narrow paths between stonewalls. It seems like the theme for the day. I eventually overtake June. Another theme of the day are the multiple groups of pilgrims on bikes that races past us, some of the groups are quite large too.
Faded wallpainting, from the walk out of Viana do Castelo.
Cat in a flowerpot.
I cannot help thinking 'typical Danes' when June and I catch up with Klaus and Tulle again. In the middle of a scenic woodland path filled with late Autumn colors, we find them sitting down, each holding a stemmed glass containing beer. They really know how to enjoy themselves on the Camino, they are only walking a part of it though.
At Casa do Sardão, from left Tara, me, June and Sang Hee (in her ohenro outfit).
There is an air of forgetfulness over the Camino today, with places and paths appearing to be embraced by nature, slightly retaken. Definitely with the 17th century Quinta de Cabanas, with vines creeping upwards on the clocktower. A plaque informs that there has been an old monastery here. Why is it always so quiet around places like this? Might even be eerie here in fog or in the dark. After the Ponte de Cabanas, the Camino heads slightly uphill past a ruined house with various graffiti inside. I cannot help going into it.
Autumn forest path.
Both Sang Hee and Tara decided to stop for the day at the Casa do Sardão albergue. From one of the hosts at that place we learn the reason why he have met so many groups of pilgrims on bikes. Today is a national holiday. There might be a problem getting a place to sleep actually. Both June and Klaus and Tulle has booked their places for the night. We run a quick check on bookable accommodations, none are available. I have to rely on that there will be an available bed at the albergue in Caminha. Otherwise, I have to consider continuing to A Guarda (my original planned destination).
Klaus and Tulle enjoying a cup of beer on a forest path.
In Vila Praia de Ãncora, June, Klaus, Tulle and I sit down for lunch. We all arrived at slightly different times, due to June and I went to see the Dolmen de Barrosa, a megalithic tomb from around 3000bc. You can walk inside the old stone structure, located on a grassy meadow in a clearing between trees. The final walk into the small town was not very interesting, but the walk to it after the old Quinta de Cabanas had been nice.
Today the Camino went past several narrow cobbled lanes with old walls.
I feel the pressure of getting a bed at the albergue on me and decides to hurry ahead of June, Klaus and Tulle. It is too bad, for the walk is one of the best of the day so far. Passing by the Forte de Lagarteira, the Camino finally goes next to the sea again. Close to the path are several sculptures sort of like sun lights, designed to catch the sun in them and frame the light in various colors. However, there is a fly in the ointment, as I walk past one of the pilgrims on bike that has had an accident and fallen badly. The other people in the group are in the process of aiding him, so I hope everything goes well.
A forgotten house.
The walk is lovely, with the Monte de Santa Tecla that is in Spain coming closer for each step. Slowly there is another revelation that is creeping into my mind, this will actually be my last day in Portugal, tomorrow I will enter Spain. The last stretch before Caminha is not that special, having left the coast at Moledo do Minho.
Quinta de Cabanas.
I reach the albergue in time, outside are one group of bike pilgrims sitting and waiting. They have to wait to 18 o'clock before they can request a bed. They appear to be the same group that the unfortunate biker belonged to, so I inquire about the one that got in the accident, they say that he is in the hospital, but it appear that he will be fine. Which is good news.
Rio Ãncora.
Dolmen de Barrosa.
Finished with the chores at the albergue, I return to the centre of Caminha, where I go straight to the waterfront. The sunset over the Rio Minho is wonderful. I am still surprised of how much the colors change when the sun are entering its final minutes of the day. Out there lies the old fort, Forte da Ínsua dating from the 17th century.
Sunframes.
Esplanade towards Caminha after Vila Praia de Ãncora, with Monte de Santa Tecla at the back. Spain is approaching.
After getting warm by the sunset, taking a rest is long overdue, I have been too busy the last hours. At a café in the Praça Conselheiro Silva Torres I meet the German girls again and sit down for a beer with them (it takes ages to get the beer though). June arrives, not very happy with her accommodation.
Torre do Religio in Caminha.
Together with Klaus and Tulle we go to the Solar do Pescado for dinner. The Danes has rented an apartment on AirBnb and are overly satisfied where they are staying, we get to take a look at it too and it is really nice. So is the dinner at the restaurant. Although a fish restaurant, I opt for meat this time. June and I has enjoyed our time together with Klaus and Tulle, but this will be the last night together. Klaus has got some really bad blisters on his feet, so it is uncertain of how much more walking he can do, and they will also not follow us into Spain. They are heading towards Valença. Good thing that it was a nice last evening.
Sunset in Caminha.
Last day in Portugal, tomorrow I will be in Spain.
Praça Conselheiro Silva Torres, Caminha.
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