Distance: 31.8km (31.8km / 1052.1km).
Weather: Nice, but low clouds at the end of the world.
The Camino de Finisterre is an extension to any Camino to Santiago de Compostela. Instead of ending at the cathedral in Santiago, this Camino begins from it and takes you out to the rugged Galician coast and the end of the world (Finisterre), or to the weatherworn fisherman village of Muxía. It is a beautiful Camino and I have done it twice before. One time going to Finisterre and then to Muxía, and another time going directly to Muxía. I also walked to Finisterre after I did my first Camino back in 2011, the French Way, but then I only had time to walk one day. So I took a bus to Cee and walked from there. For many that has walked the whole route of the long Caminos, such as the Frances, Norte, Via de la Plata for instance, coming to the 0.0km marker is a special moment.
Punta da Barca from Monte do Corpiño.
The good thing about the Camino de Finisterre is that it is also waymarked in the opposite direction, meaning towards Santiago de Compostela. This made my decision to walk it in the opposite direction easier to make. I have seen this Way in the direction of Finisterre and Muxía, now I will see it in the direction of Santiago. I will not get the Fisterra or the Muxiella, the sort of certificates that you have walked this Camino, but in return I will get another Compostela instead. It feels somewhat peculiar to again be at the busstation in Santiago early in the morning, remembering when I traveled to Ponferrada for the Camino Real de Invierno.
Nosa Señora da Barca.
The small Parroquia de Santa María chapel.
I have seen the weather report for the upcoming days and it is not positive, when leaving Santiago on the bus the omens are all there too. It is cloudy with a light rain. Thankfully it gets better and better the closer to Muxía I get, and the weather is nice when I step out of the bus. I was wearing a big smile when I could see the houses of Muxía and the distinct Monte do Corpiño from the bus.
The Costa da Morte from Muxía.
My smile gets even bigger when the first person I meet in Muxia is no other than Sang Hee. The last time I saw her was way back on the Camino Portugués, many days ago. I believe that the last time I saw her was at the Casa do Sardão on the way to Caminha from Viana do Castelo. However, I cannot linger too long if I want to get to Finisterre in a reasonable time, so it is with sadness that I have to say goodbye almost as soon as we met. I would love to sit down and catch up with her on how the rest of her Camino went, but I have to go. Still, I was so glad to see her again.
Woodland path up from Xurarantes.
Heading out to the Nosa Señora da Barca, for that is where I want to start this Camino from, I climb over the Monte do Corpiño. The view of Muxía from the top is still wonderful, as is the view of the chapel and lighthouse at the tip of the cape. Personally I favor ending at Muxía if having to choose between Finisterre and Muxía, I love that you can really see that this is a place that gets its share of hard weather. And it makes for a perfect place to start, out at the sea and the lovely chapel standing in defiance of the weather. Then walking around the little cape too the sounds of very old bells tolling from the small Parroquia de Santa María chapel.
The Camino going below Monte Facho Lourido.
Between Muxía and Finisterre it is about 27km of rugged Galician landscape. Having walked it before, I know what to expect. If I had stayed in Muxía, I would probably have chosen to walk the Camino dos Faro to Finisterre. That trail goes much closer to the sea, should be more scenic, but it is longer and harder. And I started too late to take that route. Next time. This will also be my first experience of walking in the opposite direction. I do not expect to meet other pilgrims going the same way, but will constantly meeting all the pilgrims coming from the other direction. My final plan is to walk the Camino Inglés to A Coruña, so this will in some ways teach me what to expect on that Camino.
Morquintián.
I meet the first pilgrim coming from Finisterre already short after Praia de Lourido, where the Camino begins its slow ascent from the hamlet of Xurarantes, but I doubt that he started from Finisterre today. Although, I did start late today, at half past eleven. The walk between Finisterre and Muxía can be split in half by spending the night in Lires (which is also the place you need to get a stamp at). Further up on the nice gravel track through the woods, I meet a couple of others too. After that, I pass by pilgrims at regular intervals. The interesting fact is that when I walked to Muxía from Finistere back in 2015, most of the pilgrims I met came from Muxía.
Río do Castro.
The coast is never far away, but you never really see it that often. Actually, the part of the Camino here where you will see the most of the coast, is at the beginning from Muxía (at the end if you walk in the usual direction). Other than that, I only see it when I am high enough up to see the ocean, or through those glimpses down to the beaches you pass by. They do look beckoning with their sand and proximity to the water. Otherwise, the Way meanders its way through a quiet countryside and small villages, hamlets and farms mostly. It is a pleasant walk free of burden.
Autumn Camino.
Locals near Castrexe.
Autumn colors are taking its fair share of the vegetation around me. A farmer (I believe) in front of me seems to be just as happy as I am, making small dance jumps and moves. Today, I just walk with satisfied peace of mind, I have reached my two main goals for this adventure, the Camino Portugués and the Camino Real de Invierno. This Camino and the Camino Inglés are bonus walks so to say.
Praia do Rostro.
In Lires, I sit down at the same place I sat down in 2015. I think there are more pilgrims here now than then (probably more places to eat too). A pilgrim with a trolley arrives too, he looks tired, but if it is due to the trolley or not I cannot tell. The trolley must be very useful at times, but cumbersome at other times.
Pilgrims towards Finisterre.
After Lires I meet less other pilgrims, which is understandable. The scenery does not change either, with the exception of the view of the sandy beaches. Somehow walking to Finisterre feels longer than what I remember walking to Muxía from Finisterre was. Close to Finisterre, with the evening sunlight being filtered through the trees next to me, I overtake two other pilgrims also going to Finisterre.
Finisterre
Of course, arriving in Finisterre is also great. Even if I have stated that I prefer Muxia, Finisterre is a great place too. One difference is that Finisterre lies sheltered on the inside of the cape, while Muxía lies more directly in the path of the weather coming from the sea. I Finisterre, I find myself a bed at the El Sacra Piedra albergue, which is very nice and with a friendly hospitalero. I just get my bed, my stamp and then leaves my things behind. Then I go and find a shop, buying with me something for the end of the world.
Looking out towards the other side of the bay from Capo Finisterre.
Although on a hard surface, the walk out to the 0.0km marker of the Camino is a nice one and a little bit sentimental. Scattered around, beneath the lighthouse, are the pilgrims at the end of their journey. Most of them would have walked the Camino Frances, but there are bound to be some other Caminos between them too. Even with the natural beauty of the place, the setting carries with it a special atmosphere. You feel it from the pilgrims you walk by or sit close too. The weather is still nice, but in the horizon clouds has settled down. I probably will not be seeing the sun disappearing into the sea, but it will still be beautiful.
The end of the world.
And it is. It is more like the setting sun is making a painting on the sky. The clouds are the patterns, colored red by the sunset. The sea too. And beyond is the wide ocean. Quiet murmurs from the other pilgrims around me. For most of the pilgrims here, the journey is over, they have reached the end of the Camino, but I still have some more days to go. There are not so many that are burning some of their worn clothes here now, as there are some prohibitions in place, but there are still traces of fires all over the place. It gets dark when I am out here, and the beam from the lighthouse becomes visible, adding to the atmosphere before I return to Finisterre.
Sunset at Capo Finisterre.
The lighthouse at the end of the world.
The hospitalero at my albergue gives me advice about a place to eat and also ends up showing me the place. It is not down by the seaside or in the narrow streets of the small town itself, but up at the same road the leads to the lighthouse and cape. He is spot on, and at the same time giving me memories of my hike in South Korea. Here I eat marinaded meat that I barbeque myself on a heated stone right at the table. Together with fried potatoes and vegetables, it is a great meal. A nice enough day of walking, but a great start and end.
Barbecuing my own great dinner at a good restaurant in Finisterre.
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