Distance: 25.1km (663.9km), time spent: 8:58.
Weather: Heavy rain in the night, overcast, then sunny.
In the middle of the night I wake up, having to go to the toilet. Upon returning, I have to look outside, for the sounds coming from outside are unmistakable. It is raining heavily, really pounding down, making it feel good to wrap my linen sheet extra tight around me and go to asleep again. With the exception of the sounds from the downpour outside, it was quiet in the dormitory during the night, I had a good nights sleep.
A wet and grey morning in Armenteira.
The hospitalero had been right, and it had rained heavily during the night. It continued to do so in the morning too, leaving us to wait a little for better conditions. For 23 days it has not been raining in the morning, this is the first day, the world outside is grey and sultry. Eventually the rain abates, diminishes enough for us to begin todays journey. We could have started earlier, but there is not just the rain that kept us waiting.
An ancient mossy watermill on the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua.
Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua.
From the albergue in Armenteira, the Camino descends down into a fantasy world. You literally goes down under the cover of the trees and vanishes from the outside world, sweeping you into a magical world instead. Here the route follows the path of stone and water, Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua. This route follows the Río Armenteira downwards, passing by over thirty old watermills on the way.
Verdant leaves, sparkling cobwebs and autumnal colors.
A path of contrasts on the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua.
After the rain, everything green becomes so more accentuated. I walk in a lush and verdant forest around me, on a path strewn with orange-brown autumn leaves, next to a gurgling river with cascading falls. Some might find the sounds from the river noisy, but I enjoy the sounds of the gurgling water flowing down. Every stone are mossy, as is the ancient mills, long time without being used. Silvery cobwebs from the rain are hanging from the trees and bushes. The only thing missing are the mythical beings, but they are probably there somewhere they too.
Reflections on the Río Armenteira, Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua.
It is such an entrancing and mesmerizing path that I spend a long time walking down the route, almost enchanted by it. While most of the few other pilgrims I see seems content by just walking through it, there is another pilgrim looking as lost in the primeval forest as I am. This path is alone worth walking the spiritual variant for. Near the end lies the Aldea Labrega, a Galician village with a small chapel and villagers out doing their business, but it is all statues in a sculpture park.
Aldea Labrega, with its miniature chapel and cleric statue.
Sculpture village worker in Aldea Labrega.
The route ends just outside Barrantes and it is like waking up to the normal world again. Even the rain and grey clouds has departed, a blue sky is emerging on the sky. Ciaran is now far ahead of me. A seasonal café at the end, provides me with a more filling breakfast. There is just a short stretch on a road before another ruta begins, the Ruta do Río Umia, no points for guessing which river it is going next to. Another pleasant riverside route, but it is hard to follow in the steps of the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua.
A stepping stone bridge before Barrantes.
This path is more out in the open, passing by fields and vineyards. On the river I see a heron, a turtle and other birds. Where the Camino (still on the Rute do Río Umia) crosses a bridge, I spot a monastery up on the hill above. No clear explanation is given, but I set forth to look at it. It is however not a monastery at all, just a church. I am fooled by a large mansion lying in front of the church, Iglesia Parroquial Sta Eulalia Ribadumia, making it look like a monastery from afar. The Umia river route continues in its calm and peaceful way after the bridge, I constantly stumbles upon the Brits I met yesterday.
Not a monastery at all, but the Iglesia Parroquial Sta Eulalia Ribadumia hidden behind a mansion.
Ruta do Río Umia.
The spiritual Camino has been mostly nature by the time I arrive at the medieval bridge before walking into Pontearnelas. Without being able to pinpoint the exact reason for it, the Camino from here reminds me in a way of the Camino de Finisterre. It is undoubtely Galician, the Camino goes through small villages and hamlets, alternating between hard and soft surface. I have lunch at a small café, where I did not expect to see any places to eat. Later, I make another unrewarding detour to the top of a little hill, with really nothing to see.
A pilgrim reflected, on the Ruta do Río Umia.
Heron on the Río Umia.
The truly wonderful stone and water path is undoubtly guilty of making the walk after it less marvellous, as it is hard to top, but is has been a nice and varied walk atferwards too. Another variation appears, when the Camino arrives at the sea. Here there is also the sound of water, from the waves gently crashing onto the beach. There is some strange symmetry here, first the water from the sky, then the water from the rivers and woods and at last the water from the sea. And the sounds coming from it. Ruta del agua indeed. Now the sun shines upon the sea, shining a bright line across the water. A long broken row-boat lies fully submerged in the water.
The medieval Ponte de Arnelas.
Vilanova de Arousa is now not far away and it is a splendid walk the rest of the way, with the sea on my left. A bridge leads me over to the town, where the first thing I do is to sit down for a cold cerveza in the warm sun. The Albergue de Peregrinos here is in fact inside a sports centre. Reminding me of the albergue in Ayegui on the Camino Frances. Ciaran is there, as expected, but was on his way out for a beer when I arrived. I will meet him after I have finished my duties, such as washing myself and my clothes.
A donkey statue.
We both have had a great walk today. Vilanova could be worth taking a look at, but we are satisfied for the moment just by sitting down in the rest of the sun and relaxing. The Polish couple with the baby arrives, all three of them in good mood, but tired.
Submerged row-boat in the estuary.
Estuary walk to Vilanova de Arousa.
The sun disappearing is not just due to a late hour, but the onset of ominous clouds appearing in the horizon. They speak omens of bad weather. Leaving Ciaran, I go for a walk to the port and out on one of the piers. Inside the port harbor, there is a variety of fishing and other utility boats. It is no longer quiet in the air, the wind has picked up. Where the sun is behind the clouds, there is a colorful shine, but from another direction I can see some massiv clouds rolling over the hills on the other side of the estuary. It does not bode well for tomorrow.
Mirrorhead sculpture in Vilanova de Arousa.
Upon returning to the albergue, to meet Ciaran and the two Portuguese pilgrims we met yesterday (one of them was the other pilgrim spending a lot of time in the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua), I walk through the town. It is a nice little town. As a pilgrim I like the walls made of scallops. We meet at a local place not far from the albergue, going for an easy choice of meal today, pizza.
Gathering storm approaching.
A wall of scallops.
As far as the spiritual variant goes, I cannot recommend it high enough. The Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua has been the most exceptional path so far on my Camino. I know I am heavy with the adjectives (or maybe the superlatives) here (and in general). Santiago is so close now.
In Vilanova de Arousa.
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