Distance: 18.7km (555.3km), time spent: 7:55.
Weather: Back to just a clear blue sky.
Another interesting day that posed some questions. Regarding plans, they usually serve more as a way to mark my own progress than a schedule I have to follow. There is however an uncertainty of what the ramifications will be if I lack too much behind my original plan. Today I had planned to walk to the Saiáns albergue, but how far I end up going is now more and more influenced by other people. Both June and me are extremely ineffictive this morning and set a new record in getting going late.
Superlopez. Faded mural on a shop no longer in existence, Mougás.
I think the first thing that crosses my mind after leaving tiny Mougás is the derelict places we go past. What must have been a campsite with a small shop once now lie forgotten behind with its empty shells of buildings. All these places, and those I have passed by earlier, have a story to tell, which is unknown to me.
Views of the Cape Silleiro lighthouse and Monte de Baredo above.
The Camino ascending from the road above As Mariñhas, with the Cape Silleiro lighthouse at the back.
As for a late morning walk, it is lovely. Alternating between going on roads and small gravel tracks, the Camino is made bright by the ocean. Eventually the Camino leaves the road and heads uphills, although the waymarking was not very clear at the junction. We spot another pilgrim that has missed the turn and is hurrying further on the road below. Whistling and shouting, we eventually catch her attention and getting her back on the camino track. It is though, possible to continue on the road or the coastal cycle track to Baiona if you want to. She does however appear grateful that we made her aware of it.
Sunrays through the woods.
The path going higher up on the way to Baiona, Monte de Baredo straight ahead.
Rightfully so too, for the path that climbs up from the ocean is wonderful. With sunrays streaming through the trees on our right hand side, we walk upwards on a good path with views of the Atlantic and the lighthouse at Cape Silleiro below Monte de Baredo. This path has one weakness, is it too short. On top of that I want to climb up to the top of Monte de Baredo. I make another pine cone animal and place it on a Camino milestone. The Camino then does a short dip, passing though inhabited areas, before it makes another climb. This time on a road. On a playground we meet a Czech pilgrim couple and can see the houses of Bainoa below.
Another pine cone animal that I made.
Baiona is as far June will go today, she has made arrangements with a friend to meet here her. They met when June walked the Camino Francés last year and will now walk a part of the Camino Portuguése together. Surprisingly is the Parroquia de Santa María de Baiona church at the Plaza Santa Liberata open when we are down in the town, and the priest is also there. With a new stamp in our credentials we go in search for a place to eat. In the narrow and atmospheric streets we sit down at a nice looking place. Not long after are Joan and Paige suddenly appearing. They had catched up with us due to our very late start. While we eat, we get entertained by two men trying to push and pull a boat through the narrow streets and corners.
A fountain inside a curious tower on the way down to Baiona.
Catching our interest is the large fort residing in the port of the town, Fortaleza de Monterreal. Dating back to the 11th and the 17th centuries. Knowing that we, or at least I, does not have the time to see all there is to see of it, we follow the footpath going at the top of the ramparts around the fort. The battlements runs around the Monte Boi peninsula (also known as Monterreal) for about 3km, which gives both a good view of Baiona itself and the surrounding bay, the Cíes islands and the interior of the fort. In the middle lies a Parador.
The Ex-Colegiate de Santa María or Parroquia de Santa María de Baiona church.
Next to the Fortaleza de Monterreal, lies what is a replica of the Caravel La Pinta. This caravel arrived here in Baiona on March 1st 1493, thus making Baiona the first port in Europe that got to know that America had been discovered. Walking around the boat, you can get a feeling of how life might have been on board, the spaces they had to live and work in was anything but spacious.
Caravel La Pinta (replica) seen through the door of a memorial in the port of Baiona.
Fortaleza de Monterreal.
Baiona is a lovely town, and although I feel loath to leave it, I am driven to continue walking. June will stay behind to meet her friend, Helen, but I am sure we will meet again soon. Somehow, though, I cannot come to rest with just a 11km walk, I have to move on. Baiona certainly deserves more.
Ramparts of the Fortaleza de Monterreal overlooking the ocean.
Saiáns is now just a distant dream, if I walk very quick I could probably be there not too late, but I have no desire to do that. Given the very late start, I feel satisfied with getting five more kilometres on my feet. I have some minor trouble finding the route out of Baiona, as if the town will not let go of me. The Camino takes me past old fountains and crosses, and the ruin of a small castle-like mansion.
Baiona as seen from the fort.
Fortaleza de Monterreal seen from the pier with the Caravel La Pinta.
A Ramallosa is then how far I will go today, known for its famous bridge from the 13th century, Ponte da Ramallosa. And maybe not for so very much more. Here I go to the Hospedería Pazo Pías, hoping that my late arrival does not mean that there are no beds available. I get my own room. Joan and Paige are also here. The place is great actually.
Inside the Caravel La Pinta.
On the deck of the Caravel La Pinta.
Being Sunday, however, has its minor issues. Going to get dinner, while at the sametime taking a look at the small town, Joan, Paige and I find most places closed or not offering food. On the other hand, we get to see the sunset over the Rio Miñor. The tide has now turned, and there is significantly less water running under the bridge. We end up at a café close to the river, having to buy several small dishes in order to combine it into a sizeable dish for dinner. I feel so lucky with those that I have met on the Camino, as with June and Ciaran, Joan and Paige are also great company.
Ruins of a stately mansion.
As always, I need some time at each day to sit down and go through my experiences. So at a place, which turned out that served dinner after all, I sit down for a beer and my little black notebook. I do not have a smartphone, so I write by hand small notes about the various things that has happened during the day that comes to mind. Everything that I do not catch with my camera. Walking wise, it is beyond doubt that the coastal route is an improvement to the Camino between Lisboa and Porto.
Ponte de Ramallosa.
In my reckoning, I expect to arrive in Santiago de Compostela within a week. Tomorrow, I set sails for another larger city, Vigo.
Ducks in the river colored by the sunset, A Ramallosa.
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