Camino de Finisterre // day 4 // Negreira - Santiago de Compostela

Camino de Finisterre, day 4 (Camino day 41).
Distance: 21.4km (120.3km / 1140.6km).
Weather: Rain and sunny.

The clock was to be set one hour back during the night. I had completely forgotten that. A Camino does that to you, time is a thing lost when doing this pilgrimage. So instead of walking up at 7 o'clock as I believe it to be, the clock is really 6 o'clock. Going down for breakfast, the café was to open at seven, I am surprised to find it closed. Another morning bird then comes up with the answer, reminding me of the change to wintertime. At least I can sleep a little bit longer then.

Peregrino statue in Negreira.

Outside, the clouds are grey and dull, but it is not raining. I had hoped to get early to Santiago de Compostela today, so Maria told me at breakfast that she would walk together with another woman, but leaving Negreira I find her alone. She had taken a wrong turn, and then lost the other pilgrim.

Forest path between Negreira and Ponte Maceira.

The first part of the walk today is all about Ponte Maceira. As the clouds has dissipated significantly, clearly showing signs of retreating, I have a hope of getting there in good weather. Seeing the signs coming from another direction, I know it will be a close call. Out from Negreira, the roads we are walking on are wet surfaces lit up by the reflected light. Then the hard surface is replaced by a lovely forest path, where I finally can see the sun, now shining as a bright star through the trees. I know my way now, soon passing under the nice bridge tucked in between the trees covered in vines.

Río Tambre and the small curved waterfall at Ponte Maceira.

Arch of the bridge at Ponte Maceira.

It starts to rain, just before we reach Ponte Maceira.

Ponte Maceira is a wonderful place. One of the true gems of the Camino de Finisterre. I am still surprised that almost every pilgrim I see here, just takes the mandatory picture and then moves on. This is a place that needs to be taken in slowly, needs exploring. Surrounding the wonderful bridge is a picturesque little village. On the northside of the bridge there is a very old mansion and mill, as well as a long and curved, but not high waterfall. You can walk under the bridge, by joining a stonewalk next to the restaurant on the eastside of the bridge.

Ponte Maceira.

It stops raining, just a we reached the bridge. Then the weather gradually became better. This time it is Maria that has to wait for me. I want to get some nice shots of the place, which gets a little bit delayed by a bus unloading a group of tourists. I have said it before, but if there was accommodation to be found here, I would seriously consider staying at the place.

Farm buildings with paintings of...well...farm animals.

In Trasmonte, Maria spots another cruceiro (there are so many of them) and sets off to inspect it closer. I continue walking, in the firm belief that she would soon catch up with me, as has been usual so far. However, walking for quite a time, there is no sign of her catching up at all. When I am up in Carballo after a long and slowly ascending walk on the road, there is still no sign of her. Feeling that she is somewhat prone to take the wrong turn, I get worried. I turn back, wondering where it became of her, but truth be told I am a little bit annoyed by it.

A pilgrim approaching on the forest path up from Augapesada.

I find her, standing transfixed at the same cruceiro as I left her. Wondering if she has been here and looked at the cross all the time. She has not, she had walked over to the nearby church where there was a sermon. She is really sorry when I tell her that I worried about her.

Lovely woodswalk down to Augapesada.

Except for Ponte Maceira, it is the forest paths that are the highlights of the walk between Negreira and Santiago de Compostela. Before we arrive at Augapesada there is a wonderful path down through the woods. With autumnal colors about to explode, but not quite there yet. Part of the path must have been an old Roman road, as it is covered by cobblestones. We both find the very old bridge in Augapesada interesting, especially as it is now just more of a monument, being located more or less in the garden of some houses. No roads or paths are going over that bridge now.

Maria.

We have lunch at my usual coffee place after I have left Santiago. Maria insists on paying for this meal too, maybe out of feeling guilty for earlier. We two are the only ones going towards the tomb of St. James, there is now a steady flow of pilgrims on their journey to the end of the world. Implying that this might be the usual midpoint of the walk to Negreira.

The old Roman bridge in Augapesada.

When walking through the small villages, hamlet and forest paths that the Camino de Finisterre takes you through here, the weather changes drastically on the sky. A clear blue sky quickly turns darker and we are under a heavy onslaught of rain, thankfully short. No complaining, I have been lucky arriving at the cathedral in nice weather both times so far on this trip, but things looks not so promising now. The showers comes in waves.

Woods mirrored.

If you ask me, the Camino de Finisterre has the absolute best way of entering Santiago de Compostela of all the Caminos, it is then kind of ironic that it is mostly used to leave the city. On the way to the cathedral there are no industrial areas or boring suburbs to walk through. Only forest paths and small villages before you can stand still and see the iconic spires of the cathedral. Then only a short dip through the woods past some forgotten buildings and up again and into the city through nice streets. To me, seeing the cathedral again is far better from this angle than any of the first sightings on the other Caminos. Camino Frances has actually the most boring entrance to the city in my mind.

Waymarker towards Santiago de Compostela.

Dark clouds over a hamlet on the way to Santiago, soon afterwards it started to rain.

Now I stand looking over at the cathedral, which is barely visible due to the rain clouds residing over Santiago, but the clouds are lifting. Slowly blue sky appear over the end of the pilgrimage, it is a wonderful moment. When we start walking down the dip through the little river Río Sarela, the sky over Santiago is almost free of clouds. We pass by the tent that I have seen pitched here every time I have walked past, we pass by the ruins of the old building next to the river, which are covered in vines. We cross over the old bridge and then climb the short paved road up. We are in Santiago, only a nice walk through the streets before we are there.

Santiago de Compostela.

It is a total clear blue sky when we walk towards the cathedral. Another great thing about this entrance is that you walk towards the front of the cathedral, arriving looking up at it and not coming in from the sides. I have now finished my third Camino in a row, the Portugúes, the Invierno and now the Finisterre. While we have been away there must have been some kind of festival or arrangement here, for the Praza do Obraidoiro is full of scaffolds, metal fences and other paraphernalia in the process of being cleared away.

Rua das Hortas.

I had not expected to arrive under a clear blue sky, given how the weather unfolder during the walk, but I am extremely happy. We sit down in front of the cathedral, as customs are. Although Maria who has gone a far longer pigrimage than I have, even with my three combined, feels the need to lie down and contemplate what she has finished. Around us are the usual smiling faces of the other pilgrims having finished too.

Scallop and old staircase next to the Fachada das Praterías of the cathedral.

When we leave to find a place to stay, clouds are also arriving above the Praza do Obraidoiro, finishing their pilgrimages too. And as soon as we are under roof, at my usual place A Casa do Peregrino, it begins to rain again. Someone watched over our entrance to Santiago. Afterwards, I go down to the Oficina del Peregrino to collect my Compostela.

Torre da Berenguela.

As I have written in an earlier post, Santiago de Compostela is a beautiful city in rain. And especially just after rain, with all its historical buildings reflected in the water and pools in the streets and squares. Later, I meet Maria again at my favorite eating spot, A Taberna do Bispo. Their tapas is so good that there should be a Camino to it, Camino de Taberna do Bispo.

Pazo de Raxoi at the Praza do Obraidoiro.

My only worry now is the upcoming weather, according to the forecast. It worries me. My plan was to walk the Camino Inglés to A Coruña, from where I will fly back home to Norway. However, I will be walking in the opposite direction, with no waymarking in that direction. In foul weather, I do not find that idea that comforting. I consider staying one more day here in Santiago, then take a bus to A Coruña instead. There is plenty to see in both cities.

Catedral de Santiago de Compostela.

In the end, I decide to give it a try. I am just sceptical of trying to locate the way in bad weather I guess, having no waymarks to guide me. In the evening, I sit down at a bar for a beer, while I jot down the route backwards, mostly for my own memory. It will be another exciting Camino. I was very satisfied with this Camino de Finisterre, and although it is better to walk towards Finisterre and/or Muxía, I was glad that I walked it in the direction I did.

The cathedral of Santiago de Compostela reflected i a pool with the scallop.

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