Distance: 14.7km (147.1km).
Weather: Hottest day so far.
When we were planning this walk, we saw that the distance between Alcoutim and Mértola would be too long for one day for a group hike. Being over 40km long we had to split it into two, but the lack of accommodations along the way also meant an uneven split. In the hamlet of Santa Marta, Gry had managed to find a place where we could sleep. It would be a shorter walk though, as we believe it to be no more than about 12km from Alcoutim. There are also no services in Santa Marta, except for a community bar with erratic opening hours, which means we need to bring with us what we need for food and drink. A shorter walk is then of course welcome.
At the youth hostel in Alcoutim, Karsten resting alongside the swimming pool.
A short walk also gives us the benefit of getting more time to explore Alcoutim. But first we cross over the border (river) to Spain and Sanlúcar de Guadiana, to pay a visit to the white walled castle above, San Marcos. For passengers on foot there is a small ferry available, but if you are going by car you would have to drive about 70km. Both from the walk up and from the castle walls there are great views over Alcoutim and further back in the horizon. Unfortunately, the castle is closed and the closest we are to get a view of the castle interior is a broken glimpse through the door. The walk up was still worth it due to the views.
In Sanlúcar de Guadiana.
Yesterday we could hear that peculiar sound coming from a zipline. And in a field close to the youth hostel we could see people coming flying down and 'land'. The zipline starts from nearby the castle and some of us wanted to take the zipline back again, Jorun especially. It ended with the thought, however. The ferry transports us back to Alcoutim and the medieval castle awaiting us there.
View from the way up towards the castle above Sanlúcar de Guadiana, with Alcoutim on the other side of the river.
The white castle walls of the San Marcos castle.
Unlike the San Marcos castle above Sanlúcar de Guadiana, the Castelo de Alcoutim is not located on a prominent hill above the town. Instead it is situated right in the middle of the town. And unlike its Spanish counterpart, it is open. The earliest part of the castle here was Neolithic. Once again does the Reconquista play a significant role in the history of a Portuguese castle, as it was during those timest that it started to gain its specific form. Inside the castle walls the form is now more that of a garden, where the archaeological heritage part of the castle is now a museum. It also houses a small museum dedicated to Islamic board games from the Moorish period. From the top of the walls that you can walk almost all the way around on, there are good views of Alcoutim on all sides, as well as across the river.
The only glimpse we got of the interior of the San Marcos castle.
Icon on a wall outside the Iglesia Nuestra Señora De Las Flores church in Sanlúcar de Guadiana.
We then all meet for lunch before it is time to get back to the youth hostel and the late walk towards Santa Marta.
Iglesia Nuestra Señora De Las Flores and statue in Sanlúcar de Guadiana.
Now, Gry and I has been doing some thinking and has come to the conclusion that Gry should join Ulf in the taxi. This is more appropriate as besides speaking better Portuguese than Ulf, she has also been there before and could help out locating our accommodation. In addition, it would help out Ulf having to carry the food and drink. I will then lead the group on the way.
Inside the Castelo de Alcoutim.
Walking on the walls of Castelo de Alcoutim, Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Conceição visible.
But first, we have to buy food and drink and where in Alcoutim do we find a food store. The usual store is closed, but we get directions to another local store. However, when we are where we was supposed to find the store, it is nowhere to be seen. After walking some further, we must confess we was unable to locate it and the plan is then that Gry and Ulf will have to make a stop on the way.
Sanlúcar de Guadiana from Castelo de Alcoutim.
Estátua do Guarda-Fiscal.
Then on the walk back, something wonderful is revealed. As we walk past a seemingly normal looking house, which looks the same as all the others around with no signs outside of it, we can see some unusual items in the window. Peeking inside, we have found the store. And it is like all out from those old movies. It is wonderful. You may get a lot more of everything, and more than you actually need, in modern food stores, but they all lack charm. This one was full of it. And we find all that we need. Who could believe that one of the highlights of a day is a visit to a food store.
Tiles with old ladies on, Alcoutim.
Buying food and drink in a wonderful food store, frozen in time.
Then, while Gry and Ulf are leaving for Santa Marta in the taxi, we set out for another hot walk. The route will today follow the Guadiana shortly before turning inland, with the scenery quite similar to that of before. With vegetation that will send out clouds of dust if you shake it. Most of the climb will be at the start as we will walk with the view of the river behind us and vanishing away to the north of us.
Then, on the way from Alcoutim.
The San Marcos castle still keeping a weary eye over us.
However, it was not the dust or the heat, although it should prove to be the hottest day so far, that would pose the biggest problem for us on the walk. The first omen comes just after leaving Alcoutim, when a local farmer on a small atv vehicle drives past us only to turn and stop right in front of Laila. He is only moments away from hitting her. Then he just starts up his vehicle and drives away without a word. I am usually a calm guy, but this time I have trouble restraining myself from grabbing the guy out of his seat and teaching him some new Portuguese words. I manage to let it go, fuming a bit while walking further.
Group walking on a pleasant path towards Cortes Pereiras.
Overlooking the Guadiana river as it vanishes northwards from us.
Then later we hear the sounds of approaching engines and before our feet sets off the dust on the ground, it is two motorcycles doing it, coming around the corner and passing by us at high speed. One of them warns us by signs that there will be more coming. We will have to keep our eyes and ears up for the rest of this walk. They are driving fast and if we are not vigilant, it might go bad. Forgetting about the motorcycles, it is a pleasant walk with the castle above Sanlúcar de Guadiana following us for a long time.
Well in Cortes Pereiras.
Close encounters with racing vehicles.
With so much dust and heat in the air, we have to make a stop at a bar in Cortes Pereiras. Several motorcycles drives past while we are resting at the bar, unknown if they are the same as before doing rounds or other ones.
The group at the Menhirs de Lavajo, Laila, Karsten, Jorun and Tarjei.
Continuing from the small village, there are huge clouds of dust whipped up by the vehicles around us, both motorcycles and atv's. In the distance we see they coming towards like dust devils moving in our direction, passing close by at high speed. Some of them do greet us as they drive by.
A menhir at Lavajo.
The route takes us past the Menhirs de Lavajo (or Dolmen de Lavajo), large standing stones that dates back to the Late Neolithic or Chalcolithic period. Meaning they were erected between 3500bc and 2800bc. According to Wikipedia the tallest of the three stones is 3.14m tall, in other words pi, make out of it what you want. Believed to be either used as territorial markings or as sacred spaces. The menhirs are encircled by a fence, but are available through a gate.
Lone farm outside Alfonso Vicente.
Walking towards Alfonso Vicente.
Approaching Alfonso Vicente is the sun in decline and taking on a warmer red color. When Gry made her Caminho do Este she had made a huge detour, but we will try to find what we believe is the right way. The problem is that I use Gry's smartphone to check that if we are on the right way, by follow her GPS track. We have no GPS track however for the route we will go and so we have to rely on some maps instead. Having no smartphone myself, I spend more time trying to find the maps on the smartphone than finding the way out in the real. Oh, the irony.
The sun in decline as we take on the last section towards Santa Marta from Alfonso Vicente.
Walking in hazy afternoon colors.
The last few kilometres to Santa Marta is wonderful, especially in the warm inundating light. Down from Alfonso Vicente we spot a lonely dog, only to be reassured when it owner appears a little bit later. The scenery turns red. But the group is tired and we are happy to see the house where we will stay and Ulf coming out to meet us. It turns out that the distance to Santa Marta from Alcoutim was a little bit longer than we expected.
Sunset in tree.
Purple evening light in Santa Marta.
When we arrive, Gry is not present. Ulf tells us that she went out running to scout ahead for tomorrow, trying to find a better route than on the road the route normally goes on. As the sky turns purple, then deeper purple and finally dark blue, she returns. Having ran a long way, she had found no proper way for us to go and then got worried about finding the way back when it started to get dark. However, she is a very experienced hiker and did find her way back. The road it will be.
Red evening light in Santa Marta.
Karsten is putting on the chief chef's hat for tonight and we then sit out on the balcony having another great dinner, with the occasional sip of wine or beer. Somehow each evening on the walk has been a little bit different from the other, which is nice. From the good dinner in busy Olhão, to the more quiet main square in Tavira. In Vila Real de Santo António we also made our own dinner, but had to sit inside to eat it. Where we had delicious local food in Odeleite, could sit outside looking over towards Spain in Alcoutim and finally sitting here outside with only a few lights from nearby villages visible in the night. This is the last evening we have before we will finish the walk in Mértola tomorrow.
Santa Marta in the evening.
Quite an eventful day.
Evening dinner and discussions, Gry, Karsten, Jorun, Ulf and Laila.
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