Distance: 31.2km (101.2km).
Weather: Beautiful sunny weather.
After Vila Real de Santo António, the Caminho do Este de Portugal veers inland, but does not let go of the water element yet. The pilgrimage route follows, although not entirely close to it, the border river between Portugal and Spain, Guadiana. Despite having a flowing river in our vicinity, the way ahead will definitely be dry. Another thing that dries out on this Camino after Vila Real de Santo Antonio for a long time, is the number of accommodations. Finding a place to stay for a group until Alcoutim would be a problem, but thankfully Gry had walked the Camino before, she knew of a place.
Sunrise from Vila Real de Santo António.
As usual, we try to get going as early as we can. It is another long day ahead of us and everybody in the group knows that it will be another hot day too. That said, I think we are a bit late starting out today as well. Walking out through Vila Real de Santo António takes us past a parked and packed together tivoli, then stopping to admire as the sun appear to rise above Spain. Despite that the sky is turning red, the sun takes its time and so we move on. North of Vila Real de Santo António lies a wetland that separates the town from Castro Marim, which we have to walk around as the sun finally breaches the sky and paints the surrounding landscape in its embrace.
As we leave Vila Real de Santo António, the sun is emerging behind the houses, illuminating a statue.
Wetlands between Vila Real de Santo António and Castro Marim.
It is walking on a hard surface, but I pay no heed to that as the view of the wetlands on both sides of the road are so nice. In the distance the two towers of Castro Marim are promises of curiosity. Jardim Andaluz greets us at the entrance to the small town, resembling a Roman garden in its appearance with its pillars, fountains and pergolas. The garden is in fact of Andalusian inspiration which is more directed towards the Arab-Islamic world. Above the garden lies a windmill and the small Ermida de Santo António. The others gets ahead of me as I get entangled in the memories of past times, as well as the machinations of a camera.
Approaching Castro Marim, with Forte de São Sebastião to the left and Jardim Andaluz to the right.
Jardim Andaluz.
Castro Marim, tucked in between Forte de São Sebastião and Castelo de Castro Marim is yet another lovely Portuguese small town. I mean, who does not get charmed by these places with white and usually ornamented buildings, some of them also covered by tiles. The group has already got up to the castle (Castelo de Castro Marim) when I arrive at the main square overlooked by the church. As I walk up to the castle, Gry comes down looking for me.
Facades on a street leading into the centre of Castro Marim, with the castle above.
Main square of Castro Marim, Igreja Matriz Castro Marim behind.
Castelo de Castro Marim was originally built about 854bc, but the castle standing here now is of newer origins, whose construction began at the times of the Portuguese Reconquista around 1230. The castle is open to the public, unlike its brother on the other side, Forte de São Sebastião. Inside the outer castle walls, we find the Igreja de Santiago, the old castle keep, a torture museum, reconstructions of castle interiors and good views from its walls. After the Lisboa earthquake in 1755, only one wall stood left of the Santiago church, now restored. Fascinating and sickening are the contraptions used for torturing the prisoners in the castle. The castle is well worth the visit and entrance fee.
Igreja de Santiago, Castelo de Castro Marim.
More time is spent in this charming small town as we sit down for a coffee at a café in the main square before finally putting our backpacks on again. We walked past wetlands into Castro Marim, leaving the town there is nothing but dust and dryness that first awaits us. Only interrupted by the crossing of two busy roads and a walk through the village of Monte Francisco, a dusty track surrounded by a light undulating and scarce landscape. It is strangely fascinating.
Looking down at Castro Marim and over to the Forte de São Sebastião from Castelo de Castro Marim.
On the walls of the Castelo de Castro Marim.
The group was so dissatisfied with my guiding that they put me in the pillory at the castle.
Another stop for coffee or other refreshments is taken in the sleepy village of Junqueira, which we arrived at after a surprisingly wet path. Unfortunately, this break also reveals that Ulf has got a very bad chafing on the sole of his right foot, he and Gry are patching it up as good as they can, but we feel uncertain of how it will turn out later.
Castelo de Castro Marim interior.
Dusty scenery outside Castro Marim.
A colorful square in Monte Francisco.
With the break and Junqueira behind us, we have a long and even drier walk lying in front of us. The scenery is also surprisingly empty, but it is not without its charm, a dry beauty. In between we pass by small farms, both alive and in ruin. Every step sets off tiny clouds of dust. Around us are trees charred by previous fires, small trunks standing left like grotesque creatures. The path is undulating up and down, back and forth past vegetation that seems miraculous to be alive.
While others went around, Gry took the wet path across.
Laila on the way.
Strange plant leaning over the track.
In the distance a fado-version of the theme song from A Fistful Of Dollars is playing when we walk into Azinhal, where we stop for lunch. Tongues watered, we continue under the hot sun and through the withered landscape. Flocks of sheep pass us by, leaving bleating and dust clouds in their wake. Another quiet and sleepy village, Almada de Ouro, is quietly passing us by, except for the fact that we surprisingly meet another walker here. Unlike us, he is following the GR15 (Grande Rota de Guadiana), which will be crossing our paths at times.
Walking through a dusty and lovely landscape.
From a viewpoint we could look towards the Guadiana river and the Puente Internacional del Guadiana, Spain is on the other side of the river.
Karsten and Ulf.
Then we finally get back to the water element again, as our route brings us down to the Guadiana. Just for a short time, though. Next to the river is a small fishing shack or similar standing, Gry remembers it clearly from her walk from a couple of years ago. Then the route veers off again, taking us past what must have been a reservoir for the farms here, now dried empty. The dusty path leads us up to a small settlement, Alcarias. There is a bar here and the group has no qualms in sitting down yet another time, we are close to our target for today, so this time most of us are going for a cerveja.
A sheep flock passing us by.
At Guadiana river, looking over at Spain.
Group on the way after Alcarias.
The sun is in decline as we embark on the final part of the day. It has been a wonderful, but dry, dusty and desert-like, walk so far and the continuation follows in the same vein. Only in pale warm colors from the sun. On a winding dusty track we descends towards Odeleite, its white buildings cluttering the small hillside it is located on. When Gry walked this route back in 2017, she arrived here late not having a place to stay. Thankfully she found the right café or bar and someone there knew of a lady that had some rooms she rented out. She has now booked the same place for us.
Approaching Odeleite.
Odeleite with its white buildings.
Horse statue in Odeleite.
Before we go out for dinner, I take a short walk while the sun is setting. There is a small chapel at the top of the hill, as well as some curious metal structure sculptures. One depicting a lizard. The sun is going down behind the large Albufeira da Barragem de Odeleite dam, sky turning red.
Metal structure sculpture of a lizard.
Sunset from Odeleite.
Odeleite in the evening.
Odeleite, despite being a charming small village, boasts two places to eat. At Casa Merca we are being served a set of delicious local Portuguese dishes. Then plates with various desserts, from desert to dessert, a magnificent day.
Dinner at Casa Merca in Odeleite, Gry, Jorun, Ulf, Laila and Karsten.
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