Distance: 29.1km (40.1km).
Weather: Another hot day.
On the second leg of our Caminho do Este de Portugal tour, we would walk from Olhão to Tavira. The walks will be longer from here on, but also more interesting. Today will contain more scenic paths next to the estuary and the salt flats of Algarve. However, there will still be some walking on roads and hard surface today, but with the exception of the road leaving Olhão, the roads should be quieter.
Sunrise in Olhão.
The mercado in Olhão in the morning light.
Starting out in the dark, we walk through quiet and sleepy streets down to the estuary. Dawn with its colorful sky is waking up as we continue our walk next to the old mercado. It is a beautiful morning, which we share with other early-birds and the ever-present seagulls.
Seagull in sunrise.
The longest stretch alongside a busy road is at the beginning, shortly after leaving and walking through a small suburb to Olhão. As there are no roads or paths crossing over a small river, the route has to go a little bit inland on the road, before it can veer down towards the estuary again. It got quickly hot, so after navigating through small hamlets and villages, it is good to find one of the small and typical Portuguese bars. The temperature inside is good and what can I say, the prospect of one of those café com leite is always wanted.
Walking next to a not so charming road, but some nice houses appear next to it from time to time.
Karsten and the gravel track next to the estuary.
There is also some resemblance to my second day on the Camino Portugués last year, after walking next to a road for a time, the camino dropped me onto a very pleasant boardwalk next to the Rio Tejo. No boardwalks greets us here, but I believe the change in scenery and surface is welcomed by all in the group. On a gravel track used by both walkers and bikers, we are taken through a flat scrubland not far from the estuary. The walking is pleasant, with occasional views of the ponds used by the local birdlife.
The group of pilgrims on the path next to the estuary.
Gry eating the fruit of a cactus.
Another salt lake, with bird footprints on it.
We pass by some cactus-plants, and Gry, who thrives being out in the wild, cannot refrain from acquiring a taste. This leads to us having a good laugh for a long time afterwards. The fruit is perfectly edible, but it is protected by lots of tiny spines. Gry later admits that it took a long time getting rid of all of those getting stuck on her skin.
Never grow too old to play, Karsten exercising on the way into Fuseta.
Boats in Fuseta.
Closer to Fuseta we walk next to more of the salt flats of Algarve, here lying like dried out salt lakes. Birds having walked across the salt leaves behind clear footprints.
Yes, I can assure you, this seabass dish was delicious, in Fuseta.
The graphitti version of Batman does not look so happy though.
In Fuseta we stop for lunch. When Gry walked here, she found a great place, so we try our luck at the same place. Casa A. Corvo serves some delicious grilled seabass. Fishing is clearly a way of life in this small town, in the port we had walked past several fishing boats of various sizes.
A man out harvesting in the mud.
One of the wonderful colored salt flats.
Blood-colored salt flat, enchanting.
Our fascination (or at least mine) for the salt flats reaches new heights after Fuseta. We first walk past one basin where the water is colored orange-brown, before walking next to a blood-colored one, with a white line of salt streaking through it. In the horizon a mountain is rising, but it is not tall and neither is it a normal mountain. It is a hill of salt and we cannot pass by the opportunity to summit it. This might very well be the highest up we get in a couple of days. Walking on salt is not as easy as it sounds, so the climb down is a bit of a game keeping our feet steady. Do a word like saltslide exist?
Salt mountain.
Gry and Karsten on the summit of the salt mountain.
Jorun descending from the salt mountain.
The route we are following takes us on dusty tracks and quiet roads through small villages, away from and back again to the estuary, over small wooden bridges with ropes for fences. Next to the old Torre d'Aires we take a break in the shade of the trees. Out in the estuary there are ramshackle fishing cabins and fisheries. Boats lies in the reeds. Once we left the road out of Olhão, the walk has been a good one.
Route crossing over small river on a wooden bridge.
A fisherman's shade.
Curious vehicle and the Torre d'Aires.
Then everything becomes shiny and it is apparent that we are walking through a resort and place with holiday homes, Pedras de El-Rei. We walk through Santa Luzia where we find cobblestones arranged like scallops in the pavement, take it as a sign or not. The heat is however relentless and the group is taking the brunt of it now. It is a long walk, doing about 30km in hot temperatures.
A scallop of cobblestones.
The Igreja de Santiago in Tavira.
Flowers in the Castelo de Tavira.
Finally, the buildings of Tavira embraces us, both in shade and as the end of the walk for today. Here we will stay at the youth hostel, Pousada de juventude. A nice place where we sleep in dormitories. Tavira is a wonderful town. It has something of the feel of Tomar around it, with its castle and church at the top of a hill in the town. In Tavira you also find a church dedicated to Santiago, Igreja de Santiago. Unfortunately it is closed when are there.
Igreja de Santa Maria do Castelo.
Sitting down for a refreshment in Tavira, me, Karsten, Gry and Jorun.
Tavira at dusk.
Castelo de Tavira is open and we climb up the old stairs to the embattlements to look out across the town and the wonderful Igreja de Santa Maria do Castelo situated next to it. Inside the castle walls there is a nice garden. Then we go looking at the town. At its centre is a large square next to the Rio Gilão. Ponte Romana de Tavira crosses over the river, and looking from the other side there is a great view of the town with the castle and church. We go looking around a bit, then sit down for a cold beer.
Tavira with the castle, church and roman bridge at dusk.
When the sun goes down, it does so with grace, painting the sky unreal. The view of Tavira from the eastern side of the Gilão river is just beautiful in the blue and purple light.
Karsten fascinated by my 'burning' chorizo.
For dinner we find a place on the square, Praça da República. They do tapas, with sizeable portions too. I go for chorizo, which is served almost burning at my table. Returning back to the pousade, we are all tired, but all seems satisfied so far. A hot, but good day. Tomorrow we will for real be on the Caminho do Este de Portugal. We have already seen the first scallops and yellow arrows.
At dinner in Tavira, Gry, Ulf and Karsten.
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