Distance: 31.2km (132.4km).
Weather: A cloudless sky.
On the fifth day, the route Gry had found would take us as close to Spain as we could get, to the border town of Alcoutim. It would mean another 30k+ day of walking through the arid landscape of eastern Portugal. The little café next door had agreed to serve us breakfast early in the morning, so after a good night's sleep we all sit sleepy-eyed in the bright lights of the café. Gry had slept outside on the balcony and I had to settle for sleeping on the floor. As Gry and I are the guides, our guests would get the available beds.
Odeleite in the morning (light).
Karsten crossing over the Ribeira de Odeleite.
It is a lovely morning light as we walk down the small and quiet streets of Odeleite. Unfortunately, we are now without Ulf. Looking at his foot, we had decided that he should take a bus to Alcoutim and see a doctor there, then meet us in the afternoon. From Odeleite, our route would follow a small valley next to the Ribeira de Odeleite river.
The way out of Odeleite.
Getting to the old mill of Moinho das Pernadas.
At the wide entrance to the valley, Gry finds out that she has forgotten her hiking poles. Quite amusingly, as Gry turns back to get her poles, the two other ladies in the group sees their opportunity to quicken the pace. Suddenly Laila and Jorun are racing ahead, passing quickly through the valley while the sun has yet to breach the crest above us. We walk next to the small river, which itself is bordered by green and lush vegetation, in contrast to the dry landscape around us. Especially the hills. It is a lovely walk.
The group approaching a barn as the sun breaches the crest above.
Up from Foz de Odeleite.
And old mill is passed by, Moinho das Pernadas. The sun finally breaches the crest when we walk past an abandoned barn. At this time I had to pull in the reins of the two fast walking ladies in front, lest we should get too far ahead of Gry and bypass an important junction before she is back. Nearing the end of the valley, the surroundings becomes more dusty again. As we reach the bridge crossing over the river towards Foz de Odeleite, we can see Gry coming up fast behind us.
Looking out across an arid landscape.
The Caminho do Este de Portugal on an inland detour.
From Foz de Odeleite, a small village, we ascend up into the hills in a northwesterly direction. A route that might make the way we have walked seem like a detour, but in fact, the only way to cross the Ribeira de Odeleite river is over the bridge almost at the mouth of Guadiana. Other than swimming or take a boat, that is. With Gry back leading the way, Jorun and Laila are amusingly slowing down.
Approaching Corte das Donas between walls of stones.
The dry, dusty and arid textures of the surrounding scenery.
This time walking on a lightly ascending gravel track at the top of the hills, we get a better overview of our surrounding scenery. I try to make out Odeleite among the hills, but despite it being scarce of places visible, I fail to make it out. Just another cluster of white buildings amongst the few others. The view is kind of like a subdued vista from the top of a mountain range, substituting the peaks with round and dry hills.
Ruins of an old windmill.
Guadiana in sight again.
We are making a turn inlands, before going in the direction of Guadiana again. Before the hamlet of Corte das Donas, the route has changed it course since Gry went here. Apparently for the better, but it takes us past a menacing dog (dogs can be a problem on this route, more on this later). Thankfully the owner of the dog is quickly out and closing the gate. The ruins of an old windmill is lying next to the track.
Above Alamo.
In Guerreiros do Rio.
The small village of Alamo, not that Alamo, lies at the end of the descent to Guadiana. There a dog, be it stray or not, latches on to us and follows us for a while. I pay little heed to it, but in the end Gry has had enough and starts chasing it away. This one seemed fairly innocent, just following us, but there are dogs in Portugal that you should keep a vary eye on. Gry did have some encounters with some on her walk.
Villa Romana do Montinho das Laranjeiras.
View over Guadiana towards Sanlúcar de Guadiana.
Leaving Guadiana again.
At Bar do Rio in Guerreiros do Rio we settle down for lunch, another place Gry remembered from last time. Sitting down next to the flowing water is so nice that we spend probably too much time at the place, trying out small dishes like tapas.
The last dusty walk towards Alcoutim.
Sanlúcar de Guadiana with its white castle above.
Our walk then follows the Guadiana river, it is welcoming to walk next to the river, but the walking is on hard asphalt. Crossing over a small hill, we get our first view of our destination today. Although it is not Alcoutim that we see, but its Spanish counterpart, Sanlúcar de Guadiana with its white castle above it. After a short while, the route veers inland again.
Alcoutim.
Laila resting at the youth hostel in Alcoutim.
This part takes ut to yet another dry area with sparse vegetation, slightly ascending and undulating. After a little village at the top of the ascent, Gry gives the group the option of following the marked route down to Alcoutim or go more directly by the road. It has been another long and hot day, so if the group wants to shorten it, this is the time. We end up following the road. In the centre of Alcoutim we locate both a bar and coincidentally Ulf too. His days of walking together with us is unfortunately over, the doctor had treated his blister, which also meant removing the skin. All bandaged up, Ulf will not be able to walk further. He will of course not leave us, he will meet us in the afternoons from now. I am surprised on how well he is taking it.
Karsten ready for the town.
Statue outside Capela de Santo António in Alcoutim.
Our accommodation in Alcoutim is the youth hostel, situated a little bit outside the centre. A nice place, it has got a swimming pool, which is a big plus in the heat.
Estátua do Contrabandista.
Sanlúcar de Guadiana in evening light.
Before the group meet for dinner, Karsten and I goes to take a look at the small town. Down at the harbor, we spot a sailboat with a Danish flag, and getting to talk to the owner we learn that they goes sailing in Portugal each year. A tiny bit of Scandinavia in Portugal, albeit only fleeting. The setting down paints the houses in a pinkish hue, with light reflecting from the equally white buildings across the river. When it has got dark, we are at the top of the town, looking at the small Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Conceição.
Guadiana and Spanish windmills.
Igreja Matriz de Alcoutim.
We are however a little bit late in joining the others for dinner. They had found a good place, and with good food and drink we can sit and talk while we look over towards the lights from Spain.
Alcoutim in sunset.
Alcoutim evening from Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Conceição.
Tomorrow will be a shorter walking day as we have allowed time in our schedule to take a look at Alcoutim and Sanlúcar de Guadiana if we want to. From the more busy days at the start of our pilgrimage, the surroundings has become elegantly more serene and quiet now.
Karsten, Gry, Jorun, Laila and Ulf. Another good dinner on our pilgrimage in Portugal.
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