Ascent / descent: 1446m (32496m) / 1563m (31955m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 927m / 810m / 1892m.
Weather: Fog, grey and dull, cloudy, some blue sky.
There's no quarter from the clouds, yet another morning where the clouds are invading the Pyrenees and are tearing and wearing up the mountainsides. It rained a lot during the night while I had a good night's sleep inside. Today was pretty much the same as the previous days, but with a small indication of better weather towards the end of the day. So far the Ariege has been giving the impression of being a lot more gloomier part of the Pyrenees than the rest.
Oppressive clouds in the mountains above Pla de la Lau in the morning.
Because gloomy is the word when walking up the wet path through the Muscadet valley towards Cap des Lauses. It's a tough start of the day under the oppressive weather between the mountains. Even so, I'm still smiling, it's an adventure I'm on, bad weather or not. I meet another solitary walker just before Cap des Lauses (1892moh), later on I got to know that it was most likely another Norwegian.
On the trail towards Col de la Laziès.
Finally finished with the stiff climb, the trail is then going alongside the mountain ridge. In clear weather I'm pretty sure that this would have been a great walk with a nice view, I have to be content with the few glimpses I get through the clouds. A not too dense fog is also bringing an atmosphere to a landscape. Another pass, Col de la Laziès (1840m), is left behind in the fog.
I go up on a hill next to the trail for not to see anything, but on the way down Étang d'Ayes (1694m) is appearing in a nice view. A blue eye in a grey sea and the nicest sight so far. It's a nice lake with lots of places that are suitable to pitch a tent at nearby, but it's too early to do that now. It seems that the clouds are taking a breather when I'm at the lake and is opening up to allow more of the scenery around to be visible for a short period. I take a break myself.
Étang d'Ayes. A nice lake which would make an ideal camping site.
At Col d'Auédole (1730m) I'm going and thinking about how few people I've met on the trail in the Ariege comparing to early, when a large group of walkers are coming up from the cabin below (Cabane du Clot d'Eliet). Typical. The weather has lifted a bit now and I take off my rain gear inside the hut. The trail is den descending through an anonymous path to Étang de Bethmale. The only thing out of the ordinary is the curious route where I'm passing just above a derelict farm building, walks for quite a while and then turns and passes just below the same farm building.
I arrive at Étang de Bethmale (1060m) that looked so green and inviting through the trees from above, but a little dirtier up close. A nice enough lake anyway, there are a few people promenading around the lake. Then it goes up again, towards Pas de la Core (1395m). Here a road is passing that needs to be crossed, there are quite a few that stops to take in the view. There is even some blue sky to see in between the clouds.
Étang de Bethmale.
After Pas de la Core I'm entering a sort of a Snuffy Smith-country, you get the feeling that it's sort of a remote backwater area. Some few, tired and ramshackle farms is spread around the valley I'm walking in. I start to hum on the banjo-tune from Deliverance. That said, I'm having a nice time now, it's a pleasant walk. It's quiet and calm, only the sound of the crickets in the air.
Further down the valley is Esbints (810m), which is the endpoint of todays walk. And it's a nice and small place. The gîte at the place is a small and very nice house, with only enough spaces for ten people. There are only four persons living here all the year, which in addition to running the gîte also is running the farm at the place. When I arrive there are some clothes everywhere, there is another wanderer at the gîte, Claire. We eat dinner at the hosts' house next to; the food is good and aplenty.
View from Pas de la Core. Finally some blue sky to see again.
Towards the evening it starts to rain outside, but inside we can relax with a fire in the oven. A varying day in the Pyrenees today, where Étang d'Ayes and the walk through the valley before Esbints was the highlights, with a nice evening in Esbints as the conclusion of the day.
Esbints. A small and nice place where you receive a warm welcome at the gîte.
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