Ascent / descent: 1468m (14847m) / 1149m (13518m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1027m / 1346m / 2465m.
Weather: Sunny.
Today was an immensely wonderful, but long and hard day that took me even higher up than I've been so far on the journey. Today, the walk went to Gourette, where there aren't any places to sleep along the way other than sleeping in a tent or under open sky. In return, these places will give you magnificent scenery. The former days of gloomy weather is completely forgotten, the weather was marvelous.
La Corniche des Alhas, the trail climbs up towards the Soussoueou valley with a deep ravine on one of the sides.
As before, you start the day with a climb to higher ground, here through a forest before you enter La Corniche des Alhas. Where the trail goes next to a deep ravine that possible doesn't feel that intimidating since the bottom is hidden from sight by the tall trees, a rope is fastened to the mountain for security. Which is quite ironic, since the most dangerous part of the trail isn't secured. I lose my mouthpiece of my camelbak sometime after having crossed a bridge in the forest.
View towards La Petite Arcizette and the trail that turns around the mountain along the falaise de la Tume.
After a steep climb up through the green shimmering Houn de Mouscabarous another magical moment is revealing itself. White peaks are rising up from green mountains to a blue sky; there are sharp contrasts at play. La Petite Arcizette (2293m) is the first sight for sore eyes of many from now on, beneath the peak the trail is going further in the direction of the first mighty pass you have to climb on the walk. Me and Jean-Jacques are changing turns in passing each other with an astonished look on our faces.
The herdsmen at the Cabanes de Cézy, with Pic de Cézy ou de Goupey towering above, is allowing camping next to the cabins where there also is a water source. I have to restrain my legs so they don't set off in an attempt to climb the peak behind the cabins. Further on, the trail (la falaise de la Tume) continues high up above a beautiful verdant valley, Gave de Soussoueou. I have to restrain my legs for not going down there either. High up on the other side of the valley is the highest situated railway in Europe, le petit train d'Artouste. I can see the small trains go back and forth on my walk up along Arcizette.
View down towards the beautiful Soussoueou valley.
The trail goes steep up towards Hourquette d'Arre (2465m); I play with the snow and ice that covers part of the route. I have to cross a large field of snow before the last steep climb up to the pass. Pic du Midi d'Ossau rises from the mountains behind me. Up at the pass there are enough mountains to look for in the horizon. I spend an hour at the pass while I eat lunch, tea and bread with the cheese I bought from Cabane du Cap de la Baitch. I can see Jean-Jacques struggle up towards the pass; the snow is heavy to walk on.
Hourquette d'Arre.
To the north I can see the lowlands north of the Pyrenees when going down towards Gourette, where I pass Lac d'Anglas (2068m) with the mountains reflected in the surface of the water. Next to the lake are some ruined cabins and from a cave nearby ice is making the air chilly. I can feel it in my legs that is has been a lot of climbing today when I'm walking down. In addition the path is full of small loose stones that make it painful to walk on.
At the top of Hourquette d'Arre.
The enchantment is broken when I arrive at Gourette, which is yet another typical ugly ski town. I use some time to locate the CAF (Club Alpin Francaise) refuge which I've booked a bed for the night in; the worn-down building is located somewhat hidden behind the rest of the ski towns rather less memorable buildings. I eat dinner at the refuge together with Jean-Jacques and another Frenchman that doesn't speak English. Two dogs makes some hustle and bustle at the cabin, the big dog are growling low each time the little puppet is coming close. It turns out be a nice enough evening at the cabin, and they got Leffe there.
The lowlands to the north can be seen in the distance, Lac d'Anglas is visible below.
Yet another marvelous day and perhaps I will be back above the Soussoueou valley again, if not just to take the little train.
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