Thursday, August 1, 2013

GR10 // day 3 // Ainhoa - Bidarray

Distance: 20.3km (62.3km), time spent: 8:26 (26:34).
Ascent / descent: 976m (2917m) / 946m (2767m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 120m / 150m / 926m.
Weather: Fog in the morning, sunny, windy and hot during the day.


Fog covered Ainhoa during the night, but in the morning the veil had lifted a bit. The sun is breaking through the clouds when Didier, Marie-Agnes and I are ready to go early in the morning. Dominique is still sleeping in his tent when we're leaving, so we're not able to say goodbye to him. His plan is to go to Espelette today, which is supposed to be a nice village known for its spice (pimente d'Espelette).

Morning mist and sunrise in Ainhoa.

From Ainhoa the route goes up through the clouds to the Chapelle de l'Aubépine. All the crosses on each side of the road are culminating in the three crosses next to the chapel. From the chapel there is a lovely walk around Ereby (583m) to the Col des Trois Croix (510m) with great views to where the landscape below are being covered by a white layer of clouds, there are no crosses at the pass however. The clouds are rolling like waves unto the mountainsides with the sky above being sunny and clear, a strong wind blows through the grass.

The three crosses at the Chapelle de l'Aubépine. Clouds are drifting by in the valley below.

Three bikers are passing me by on the trail up to Col Zuccuta (566m), from here the route goes down towards Spain before it turns and climbs up to Col de Méhatché. At Ferme Esteben (580m) they serve an absolutely delicious omelet with salted ham. After crossing the road that goes to Spain the trail climbs first through a path up the hill before it settles down on a bumpy road up to Col de Méhatché (716m). A flock of horses makes it impassable by car at the top of the pass.

To the north of Ereby a huge layer of clouds are covering the southern part of France and are rolling likes waves unto the mountainside..

At the top of the Méhatché pass the trail turns off the road and continues along an eastern path, but the lure of another summit makes me continue along the road and walk up to the top of Artzamendi (926m) instead. The view is great and there are literally no people at the top. To the east more and more mountains are appearing in the horizon, but in the focus of my view is the Iparla-ridge which I will traverse tomorrow. La Rhune is still clearly visible in the horizon.

View from Artzamendi.

After going down to Col de Méhatché and the GR10 again I pass another walker lying straight out on the ground after a while, but the way he's lying down tells me that nothing wrong has happened. Down towards the Bastan-river the trail goes very steeply down a ravine, but the path is however quite good to walk on (being careful is though important here). The heat is more of a problem now, it is getting very hot again. Down by the river I give my feet a well earned bath.

Before the last part of the walk to Bidarray I strike up a conversation with the walker that was lying flat down on the ground. Sacha is also doing the GR10 and is also going all the way to Banyuls sur Mer, however with a lot harder itinerary than mine. I later get to hear that he arrived at Banyuls after using only 37 days on the whole route.

Steep descent down towards the Bastan river and Bidarray.

I arrive at Bidarray in the heat empty of water after taking a wrong turn towards the end. Almost all the places to sleep in the village has been taken by a lot of youths on vacation apparently, but Emilio who has got a bed in the annex of the Gîte Aire Zabal arranges for a place for me too. There is nothing but hot water in the gîte, so I have to run to one of the bars in the village to quench my thirst. The heat is reaching 40 degrees again.

Youths playing peloton in the fronton in Bidarray.

Dinner is eaten at the restaurant of the one hotel in the village. I learn that Didier and Marie-Agnes are also installed in the gîte, being tired after the initial climb and with the upcoming heat they had opted to catch a ride again from Col de Méhatché. A great day on the GR10 with a lovely trail and great views. Tomorrow there are dark clouds in the horizon apparently, there is a forecast of thunder approaching.

<- AinhoaSt Etienne de Baïgorry ->

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