Sunday, August 25, 2013

GR10 // day 27 // Araing - Eylie d'En Haut

Distance: 8.3km (527.2km), time spent: 5:00 (201:04).
Ascent / descent: 513m (29427m) / 1473m (28706m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1950m / 990m / 2424m.
Weather: Fog and sun.


Today I was unsure of where I wanted to go. Outside the fog is lying low and is not very much tempting. It's a short walk over to the next place, Eylie d'En Haut, but it isn't a discouraging distance to Cabane de Besset from Eylie either. My hiking boots are still wet after yesterday, so it's tempting to go to a place where I can get them proper dry.

The dam at Étang d'Araing in fog.

The Tarnoswki family has decided to leave the GR10 and do the Tour de Biros down to lower surroundings, so I have to say goodbye to yet another new acquaintance. They disappear down in the fog while I'm walking up into it past Cabane d'Étaing d'Araing. On the way up the sun is suddenly breaking through the clouds, the morning dew on the grass is illuminated white in the light. Up at Serre d'Araing (2221m) am I above the clouds and can bathe in sunlight.

The Cirque d'Araing covered by clouds.

Unfortunately a look at the map makes it clear that Cabane de Besset will still be beneath the clouds. Even so, I'm still unsure if I only will go down to Eylie, but a junction at the top of the ridge is presenting me with an option. By going up to Pic de l'Har I can add some time to todays walk. So above the sea of clouds I set off in the direction of the summit. Up at Pic de l'Har (2424m) the view is offering me a sight of a white ocean that rolls onto the mountain sides with small spires rising from the clouds.

On the way back the clouds are lifting on the side that I went up from, and I can for the first time look upon Cirque d'Araing and Étang d'Araing in its entirety. Then I go down on the opposite side of the ridge and into the fog again, no changes on this side. Contours of a memorial appear and disappear again. A derelict entrance to a mine attracts my curiosity, the remains of the construction is lying scattered around. I'm walking slowly downward, there's no rush now.

View of the ocean of clouds from Pic de l'Har.

Then it became a mystic walk. Out of the fog a ghost town is appearing, the wind is howling between the houses; signs, window sills and doors are flapping and creaking. A sensation of being watched. I've come to the Mines de Bentaillou (1870m), an abandoned mine high up in the mountains. Now shrouded in mystic and mist. I spend a long time among the derelict buildings. The grey weather makes it a special atmosphere. On a height behind the buildings with a view down into the fog covered valley the mines is opening up. The fog is lifting slowly and through the clouds mountains are appearing behind the mine, clouds drifts through the houses. Magical.

View down towards Cirque d'Araing and Étang d'Araing.

On the steep way down the clouds are lifting more and more, blue sky appearing. Col de l'Arech which the GR10 passes over is now visible on the other side of the valley and down below the houses of Eylie d'En Haut can be discerned. Traces of the mine workings are still apparent on the way down. Behind me Mines de Bentaillou disappears into the shadows of the past.

Mines de Bentaoillou, an abandoned mine high up in the mountains.

Down at Eylie d'En Haut (990m) the sky is now almost completely clear and it's tempting to continue further. But in the end I call it a day and get me a place at the nice gîte. Even though I ate at the top of Pic de l'Har am I hungry. After having eaten I find out that I would be arriving quite late at Cabane de Besset, so I decide to stay.

Eylie d'En Haut, the gîte is located just outside the small village.

Before dinner I go for a walk down into the valley, where I pass Eylie and Eylie d'En Bas. The dinner at the gîte is very good with lots of food, and is being served in the hosts' house in the small village. In the evening I find a pitch black path that I follow to see if I can find Monument Megalithique. A great day with the abandoned mine as the highlight by far. I could (and should) probably have walked further on to Cabane de Besset in the nice weather, but I had a nice evening in Eyelie anyway.

<- AraingPla de la Lau ->

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