Ascent / descent: 861m (7788m) / 1476m (7430m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 990m / 375m / 1472m.
Weather: Sun, fog, then rain.
Today I got a taste of what the French Pyrenees are known for, the changing weather. I wake up to the sound of the river that is running past nearby, having had my best night's sleep so far on the journey. The tent has held together all the night. A red morning sun is illuminating the landscape, a cloudless sky above.
Breakfast at the Chalets d'Iraty, a big plate with cured meat.
After a rather meager breakfast in the morning hours I walk fast up to the Chalets d'Iraty. After passing by the remains of a little lake the trail is going up through the Iraty forest and passes Lac d'Iraty before it rises up above the trees on a hill with views of the green colored mountains around. There is a nice view up by Col Bagargiak (1327m), unfortunately partly hidden by trees.
Cows in the fog on the way up to Col d'Iratzabaleta.
It's however not the view that I've been walking so fast up here for. I can feel my stomach complaining so I'm ordering a huge plate of cured meat (ham and sausages) and cheese at Chalets d'Iraty. It tastes absolutely superb. While I'm eating the clouds are rolling in and the view is disappearing completely. The rest of the day was to be a walk in fog and rain.
From Col Bagargiak I disappear into the newly arrived sea of fog. At Col d'Iratzabaleta (1423m) a herd of sheep merges seamlessly into the clouds. Though from here I still get small glimpses of the landscape behind the fog, small windows in the clouds passes by and I can see green hills and trees in fleeting glimpses. My curiosity bring me up to the summit of Pic d'Escaliers (1472m), which more feels like a very round hill all covered by grass (with a lot of sheep dung). From the summit I can enjoy my last fleeting glimpse of the scenery around.
A window in the fog at Col d'Iratzabaleta.
The fog has tightened its grip and it now gets important to pay close attention to the path and the waymarks. At a pass a stone with waymarks is lying overturned with the way marking thus pointing in the wrong direction, so I set off in the wrong direction. I soon find out that I'm not on the GR10 anymore and heads back to search for the correct path. I eventually find the correct way and then go back to the wayward stone and turn the stone so that it points in the right direction.
Walking in the mist.
I arrive at Cayolar de Mendikotziague (980m). In the Cicerone guide there is a great picture of the surrounding area, I get the feeling that I'm missing some nice views at this point. After walking for about fifteen minutes after leaving the small hut I find out that I've lost my map case, I turn around and have to walk almost back to Mendikotziague before finally retrieving the map case.
The last two hours down to Logibar feels like I'm walking in circles. It has started to rain and the fog and the rain is making the scenery appear just the same wherever I look. All I can see is the same looking landscape with the trail going across an undefinable ridge, only interrupted by short climbs over some hills that all looks the same as the previous one.
View down towards the Larrau valley.
At last I arrive at Logibar, which by the way is nothing more than a turn in a road with a hostel. The dormitory here is quite cramped, but fortunately not full. I get to know some of the boys with heavy backpacks that I passed before Sommet d'Occabe yesterday. They're at the end of their walk since the heavy backpacks has worn them out. There are a lot of trekkers here in the evening, with some having been driven down from Chalets d'Iraty since it was completely full there. It was a nice evening after a somewhat boring walk in the fog.
Logibar.
<- Iraty-CizeSte Engrace ->
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