Ascent / descent: 1138m (8926m) / 883m (8313m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 375m / 630m / 1383m.
Weather: Sunny and clouds in the morning, then fog, rain in the evening.
Some blue sky and sun in the morning, but it's evident that the weather has changed. Today was yet another day wrapped in the fog blanket, with Ste Engrace as the intended end point of the walk. From Logibar the route by Passerelle d'Holzarte is described as a variant of GR10 in my guidebook, but the route is now apparently changed to take you over the deep ravines of Holzarte. The trail up to the ravines is quite good, so the gorges are also a popular tourist target. Fortunately I'm off quite early, so none of the tourists has appeared yet.
Gorges d'Holzarte with the suspension bridge.
The sky is still blue when I arrive at the deep Holzarte ravine, with the Passerelle d'Holzarte spanning over the abyss. The suspension bridge, which was constructed in 1920, is swaying softly when I walk across it. The bottom of the ravine can be seen deep below with the sound of water rising up. After crossing the bridge I'm forced in under the arms of the Holzarte forest, sunrays shining through the foliage of the trees. The path up through the forest is quite broad with the gorge visible to the left of me. And in a second day in a row I manage to lose something, today I lose my sunhat on the track, so yet again I have to double back to get it.
Passerelle d'Holzarte. The suspension bridge is taking you over the deep gorges of Holzarte.
The path is going a long way up along the ravine before it eventually crosses a creek and turns back on the other side of the gorge. And with the turning the clouds are coming. At the windswept Plateau d'Ardakhotchia (980m) the trail is coming up to a small gravel track, but the trail isn't following the track down again. Instead it goes further up into the clouds. Shapes appear out of the fog, Ruth and Therese, two Swiss women I met at Logibar that are walking part of the trail. Up by Abarrakia (1200m) the trail is going straight over a large field of sheep dung.
Sunrays shining through the foliage on my way through the Holzarte forest.
Today also is a walk in the fog, but this stage is more varied so it doesn't get as monotonous as yesterday. The route is following a gravel road past some few small mountain farms and cabins before the route is going on a trail up towards Col d'Anhaou (1383m). When I arrive at the pass the view is still just the dull grey sight of the clouds, but when I sit down for a break the clouds are breaking up in short waves and I can see the hidden scenery behind the fog. I stop for a talk with the farmer at Cayolar d'Anhaou while filling my camelbak, my French is however quite rusty.
Despite the fog it has been a nice walk today so far. Down from Anhaou the trail is going partially steep down towards Pont d'Enfer. I pass a large group of French that also was at Logibar. I'm now beneath the layer of clouds and can see the pastoral valley below me. The water under Pont d'Enfer is turquoise colored and clear, and calls for a break.
Walking in the fog along a gravel road over the mountain towards Ste Engrace. In the grey veil I pass by small mountain farms, like here at Igueloua.
From the bridge the trail is following the road to Ste Engrace, which actually is the name of a community of several small villages. Even though the mountains are covered by the clouds I can see the distinct Kakoueta gorge. There is a variant going from Cayolar d'Anhaou that goes down through the ravine and to Ste Engrace; perhaps I should've taken that route instead.
Glimpses of scenery in the fog at Col d'Anhaou.
I arrive at Ste Engrace (Senta) and 'cries' myself to a place at the gîte, they were a little bit reluctant to give me a place at first (without me knowing the exact reason why). Ste Engrace is a small and cozy village, with a little church. And the mandatory fronton peloton court, a reminder that I'm still in the Basque country. The traditional garbure soup, pasta with chicken and ice cream are served for dinner. During the evening it starts to rain and I can hear some thunder in the distance. Dominique is camping next to the gîte. A very nice evening after a nice walk in the fog.
Ste Engrace.
<- LogibarArette la Pierre St Martin ->
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