Jotunheimstien // day 3 // Nedre Snellingen - Lygna

Jotunheimstien, day 3.
Distance: 34.9km (106.4km).

I woke up early. Although I did want to thank my host again for his hospitality, I really did not want to wake him up this early, so I decided to quietly slip away in the morning hours.

There was some distance to cover today, as I had pre-booked accommodation at Lygnasæter Hotel for this night, needing to do to the 100km plus in three days.

Breakfast was taken in the quiet morning hours next to Avalsjøen.

After I had walked past Bruvoll, I was for the first time on unfamiliar paths. The scenery still remained similar though, surrounded as I was by the lowland woods around Oslo. With some subtle changes when the path reached higher grounds.

Things got interesting when I walked up and over Svartåsen (580m), where the path afterwards was somewhat difficult to follow. Descending I found a farm, abandoned for some time, where vegetation had invaded the porch.

Avalsjøen.

A small lake in the woods, Damtjern.

Langmyrhytta.

Øvre Høvra.

The view from the farm at Øvre Høvra.

At Øvre Høvra, the view opened up. Here, old farmhouses stand looking out over the surrounding landscape. I wondered how it must have been her in the old days, when this was a far more remote place than it is now.

When I walked around the outskirts of Lushaugen, the scenery had been fairly similar to the previous two days. Upon arrival at Lygna, the last kilometres had seen me going through a wonderful golden coloured bog landscape. Wooden boardwalks had been placed to keep walkers dry on their feet, mostly.

All viewed from above when a detour took me to the summit of Lushaugen (812m). The only reason why I chose to hike up to the summit was a slight remembrance of reading something about the hill a time ago. I did the right thing, as a new watchtower had been built there, providing a wonderful view in all directions from the top.

For those planning to hike this trail, the small shop at the gas station here at Lygna is the only place directly on the trail that provides a store to buy supplies from.

Ognilla.

View from the top of the lookout tower at Lushaugen.

Bogs after Lushaugen.

Lushaugen.

Dinner (moose burger) at Lygnasæter.

A quiet and nice evening at the hotel, I enjoyed a burger made from moose and had a couple of beers. My last memory from this place was when I went skiing the 140km from Gjøvik to Oslo, which saw me having breakfast in the cafeteria here.

<< Nedre Snellingen // day 2Kvitingsmyrene // day 4 >>

Jotunheimstien // day 2 // Langvann - Nedre Snellingen

Jotunheimstien, day 2.
Distance: 36.7km (71.5km).

The second day on Jotunheimstien made me wake up to a beautiful morning with smoke drifting across the lake, not gun smoke from James Bond though, only frost smoke. Langvann lies a little bit off route, so at first, I had to backtrack to be on the trail again.

I ended up walking with wet shoes almost the whole day, as instead of crossing the busy road going through Nittedal, the trail took a little bit of a detour to go to an underpass. The new route was fine at first, but I soon found myself walking deep in water. On the way back, I will take the old route over the road.

Nordmarka was left behind when I climbed up into Romeriksåsene. This was also familiar places to me, where the biggest change was how little water there was in Storøyungen due to some maintenance work on the dam.

That the trail actually goes past Bekkestua does feel a bit strange, as it will give those not staying at the DNT cabin a longer walk. Having almost to walk back and forth the same way, coming back to Storøyungen almost where you left it.

Frost smoke over Langvann in the morning.

Hakadalselva.

Kirkebyvangen, remains of an old farm.

Crossing a bog near Storøyungen.

Djupøyungen.

At the cabin, however, I had a nice meeting with a young couple that had walked the trail in stages earlier. They warned me about extensive logging later that could make navigation difficult.

From the ensuing part of the trail, the walk over Rudskampen was the best part. This is also another area with pines spreading their gnarled forms over the landscape.

I walked past Store Snellingen, contemplating finding a place to camp next to the lake, but I decided to try to push ahead to Avalsjøen. I had a short moment of regret when I arrived at the Snellingen cabin, seeing that time had raced ahead.

In the end, things worked out well (it would have done anyway). At a nearby cabin, I saw there was somebody present and on an impulse I asked about how far it was to go to Avalsjøen lake.

Instead, I was told I could pitch my tent outside and then invited in for some food and drinks.

On the path up towards Rudskampen.

Rudskampen.

Råbjørn.

Sunset over the woods before Snellingen.

Snellingen farm.

I had a really nice evening, getting far more than I bargained for. It was also real nice to see such great hospitality back home, after having similar experiences on my walks abroad.

<< Langvann // day 1Lygna // day 3 >>

Jotunheimstien // day 1 // Sagene - Langvann

Jotunheimstien, day 1.
Distance: 34.8km (34.8km).

As travel abroad was still kind of restricted due to the pandemic, I had to have my eyes on Norway for this year as well. Last year I had no problem knowing what trail to do, it had to be Gudbrandsdalsleden, the pilgrim path to Nidaros. This year, however, was more difficult to decide.

I had no real candidates and as a result, no real motivation either. Eventually I decided to hike the Jotunheimstien and Rondanestien trails. From home in Oslo, my plan was to follow Jotunheimstien on its 380km course to Jotunheimen, afterwards find a way to Hjerkinn and then walk the 480km back to my home again on Rondanestien.

I was not motivated for it.

Walking through Sagene, at the start of my Jotunheimstien hike.

Bridge over Akerselva at Kjelsås.

Funneled path at Hammeren.

Marshy area next to Skjersjøelva.

Øyungen.

The trail officially starts from the centre of Oslo, but I opted to make my own apartment the starting point of my walk, joining the trail as it goes up Akerselva.

On the first day, I ended up at Langvannet, a lake that became famous in Oslo as a shooting location for the last James Bond movie No Time To Die. Not much action there in the evening though, but that suited me fine, I wanted it to be quiet.

For the first two days, I would be walking in familiar places, as Oslo and its surrounding woods, hills and lakes are my backyard so to speak. And that came true when I stopped walking for the day, I had seen everything before.

Not that it made the walk bad, there was just nothing new to see. I walked past the familiar sights of Hammeren, Fagervann, Øyungen and Liggeren Gård. The weather was nice, and it was hot, but I also got some rain at the end of the walk.

Karlshaug Naturreservat (a nature reserve) with its pines, bogs and heather was the least visited part of the walk, but definitely the highlight of the walk. There was even a rainbow adding additionally colours to the views.

Liggeren farm.

Rainbow over Ørfiske.

Bog in Karlshaug Naturreservat.

On Jotunheimstien through Karlshaug.

Langvann.

When I went to bed (or sleeping bag) after a quiet and serene evening, I was still close to home. However, my demotivation was at least temporarily forgotten, I was content with my first steps on Jotunheimstien.

Nedre Snellingen // day 2 >>

Valldalsleden // day 11 // Skjørstadhovden

Valldalsleden, day 11.
Distance: 3.4km (313.9km).

There was time before my train home departed, so I took the gondola up to Skjørstadhovden. Not exactly a part of the pilgrim path to Trondheim, but as it was a part of my journey it should also be a part of my tale from it.

Skjørstadhovden also provides a great view over the landscape the pilgrim path passes through after it comes down from the mountains.

I found a nice place a little bit down from the summit at 1125m, where I could sit down and read. Below I could see Oppdal church and try to make my way backwards on Gudbrandsdalsleden.

In the gondola up towards Skjørstadhovden.

Looking down towards Oppdal.

View from Skjørstadhovden, looking over the valley that I went through yesterday.

It was tempting to start climbing higher up, but I was sensible and did not succumb to it. I felt invigorated enough being this close to the mountains above before a long train ride home.

Before taking the gondola down again, I had lunch at the restaurant.

On a short walk down to the small unnamed lake on the backside of Skjørstadhovden.

Blåøret in the background to the left, Kinnpiken in the background to the right.

After 11 days (including this) and 314km on Valldalsleden, the journey goes back home again.

<< Oppdal // day 10

Valldalsleden // day 10 // Ryphusan - Oppdal

Valldalsleden, day 10.
Distance: 29.3km (310.5km).

From Ryphusan I walked to Oppdal, the end of the line for my part on this walk. As I had walked the whole Gudbrandsdalsleden last year, I did not find it necessary to go all the way to Trondheim this time.

Vinstradalen was the highlight of the walk. This time I could see the surrounding mountains, as the weather was far better than my previous outing. Still clouds and with a forecast of rain, but how different a walk feels when you can see the features of the landscape around you.

I stopped to admire the views from the chapel of St. Michael, with Oppdal visible through its blue cross in the window.

Curious sheep in Vinstradalen.

The pilgrim path going on a constructed way through Tronget.

Holsætra.

Crossing over the Vinstra river at Moabrua.

This I could not see last year, view of Oppdal in the distance.

Thunder and lightning both heard and seen above Oppdal as I came out of the Vinstradalen valley, but at that time I was down from the mountains.

St. Michael Chapel.

The cozy Plasstoggo cabin is no longer situated next to the pilgrim path, as it has been changed to take another route. I still located the small hut for lunch.

I walked through Vangfeltet, the largest burial ground in Norway, instead of following the pilgrim path that goes outside of it. It was a beautiful and peaceful walk through illuminated trees from the sun briefly shining through the clouds.

Thunder and rain struck me heavily on the approach to the centre of Oppdal, soaking me instantly. I was quite happy to escape the deluge when I got to Oppdal Gjestetun Hotell, and even happier when I found out that they had closets with heating in.

Thunder and rain passing over Oppdal.

Crossing over a field on the way to Oppdal.

Vangfeltet, the largest burial grounds in Norway.

Oppdal in the evening rain.

In the afternoon and evening, I got out to eat pizza and have some beers at Møllen. Then ending my walk on Valldalsleden in my room listening to more heavy rain outside.

<< Ryphusan // day 9Skjærstadhovden // day 11 >>