15th of July to 25th of July 2026.
Distance: 313.7km. 11 days.
Wikiloc: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/the-snowdonia-way-2026-276744781.
This is the third and final part of my series of my hike on The Snowdonia Way, mountain route. In the first part I wrote about the walk from Machynlleth to Trawsfynydd, and the second part from there to Pen-y-Pass.
Pen-y-Pass - Conwy
Distance: 81.4km. 3 days.
It is all fog at the Pen-y-Pass in the morning, quite different from the nice sunset the day before, but the fog does not linger long. Back on The Snowdonia Way, the trail is beautifully set going down towards the Nant Gwynant valley where it eventually joins the low-level route climbing up to the aforementioned Bwlch y Rhediad pass with views getting better and better as the trail progresses upwards.
Ogwen Valley and Tryfan from the Glyderau.
Time is on my side, or at least that is what I believe, so I make a detour from the top of the pass to the summit of Moel Meirch. I am now back in the Moelwynion and when I look at my map, it is interesting to see how close I am to the trail going south towards the summit of Cnicht some days earlier. Ruins or castles has always fascinated me, so when reading about the main route heading towards Dolwyddelan, I was wondering if I had time enough to walk down to the Dolwyddelan Castle and back up again, in the end I found Moel Meirch a more reasonable detour and the old castle just a little bit too far timewise.
Ogwen Valley on the main route of The Snowdonia Way.
Moel Siabod is the highest point of this day. I wonder at and wander up the grassy expanse leading up towards its rock strewn summit. From the summit, I can look down upon the remains of the Dolwyddelan Castle, so I still got to see it, although from a distance.
From the Pen y Gwryd Hotel, where Edmund Hillary and his team were staying when they trained for the Everest expedition.
Wales and my feet do not seem to be on the most compatible terms. I remember well how bad my feet hurt when I had walked to Tregaron on The Cambrian Way. And now, when I had crossed over Tarren Hendre on the first day, my feet had felt unusually sore. Descending from Moel Siabod, I again begin to feel a pressure-point in my left foot, later turning into spikes of sharp pain. I have had to spend some time to take care of my feet on this hike.
Sunset at Pen-y-Pass.
Capel Curig is a little village spread out. The old sixteenth century chapel giving name to the village is now a holiday home, but it is not where I will spend the night. Instead, I have a room at the Hall of the King, Plas y Brenin, which is now a mountain adventure centre.
View of Nant Gwynant.
It is the tenth day of my hike, and every day has been with nice and warm weather. Unusually warm for Wales many probably would say. Therefore it is a bit of a relief that the weather appears to turn, it is a welcome change. It does not rain, but after an initial sunny morning, clouds put a low blanket over the Glyderau, Ogwen Valley and the Carneddau. Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach and the Castell y Gwynt (Castle of the Winds) are all passed by in the fog, blending in with its lunar landscape. Small windows are opening up to the lakes and valleys below.
Yr Wyddfa from the other side of the Nant Gwynant valley.
The descent to Llyn y Cwn is particularly steep, going on loose rocks, but it brings me underneath the clouds to a dramatic vista. The Ogwen Valley is visible below with the Carneddau behind, but it is the now brooding peak of Tryfan that creates the drama in the frame. Ascending Y Garn, there is yet another roar from three fighter planes flying through the valley below me at high speed and low elevation, trailed by fumes. As above, so below.
Yr Wyddfa from the climb up Carnedd y Cribau.
From Y Garn, the path crosses the ridge over grassy Mynydd Perfedd and Carnedd y Filiast, with the blue colour of the sea in the distance underneath the grey clouds. Descent from the ridge down to the Nant Ffrancon valley is steep on a part visible, part faint path. The last section into Bethesda goes on a pleasant path called The Surgeon’s Path through a forest. And once down in the valley, the sun is out and shining again.
Dolwyddelan Castle seen from Moel Siabod.
I had got a room at the Snowdonia Mountain Lodge for the night, but it is located a little bit outside of the town, back up in the Nant Ffrancon. In Bethesda, I find a pub that does food, and eat a fish and chips for dinner. Then I buy some snacks for the evening and walk up my accommodation, there is a pavement all the way.
Gloomy view of Tryfan and Ogwen Valley underneath the clouds from Y Garn.
The longest day on The Snowdonia way, both low and high, is the last stage from Bethesda to Conwy and its medieval castle. From Bethesda, the mountain route ventures up into the Carneddau range by climbing up to Carnedd Gwenllian, while the main route goes below the range before entering its lower northern parts. The Cambrian Way, on the other hand, climbs up to the range by Pen yr Ole Wen, also climbing over the highest point of the Carneddau, Carnedd Llewelun at 1064m, which The Snowdonia Way does not.
A fighter plane flying low through the Ogwen Valley, seen from Y Garn.
I remember the horrendous weather from when I hiked over the Carneddau on The Cambrian Way, with heavy wind and rain. And with the low visibility making it a challenging walk navigation wise. In retrospect, of course, it was one of the most memorable days on my hike. Heading up towards Lefn, Gryn and Drosgl, the sky is promising, but the cliché is that weather can change quickly in the mountains. And so it does. At Carnedd Gwenllian I barely get to discern the valleys below before clouds engulfs me and the summit. In the direction of Foel Grach, I can see several of the horses roaming around these mountains, as well as a lone walker whom I get to talk to a little bit later.
Looking back towards Foel Goch.
Rain was forecast for today, which in itself is sorely needed here due to the unusually dry period, and on the descent from Foel Fras it arrives. Nothing else to do but smile, because now this feels like I have been here before. Interestingly it feels like the weather is worse this time. However, it is not the rain who does it, but the strong wind. In the guidebook the section after Bwlch y Ddeufaen is described as some fantastically bleak moorland, with the current weather I believe it to be even bleaker. Bleak is also the sea when it comes into view. It is a fascinating walk despite the inclement weather. The horses of the Carneddau are either running around or huddling together in the rain. After walking for a good while, the rain abates.
Nant Ffrancon.
When I travelled to Wales, I got the news of the wildfire outside Conwy. I heard that people had been evacuated from Capelulo as the fire was burning above at Pensychnant. There was a possibility that I would have to make a detour around the area, as the trail passes straight through the affected area. While on the way, however, I had heard that the fire was under control, and eventually that it was possible to walk through the area.
The Surgeon's Walk leading into Bethesda.
When I could see the wildfire area for the first time, there was something going up in flames, most likely a bush. Arriving at the burn area, there is an interesting divide. On one side of the track the vegetation is green and alive, on the other side all of the vegetation is burned. There are still fumes rising from the ground, probably due to the previous rain and lingering embers in the ground. The sheep does not appear to pay any heed; they walk carefree into the burn area. Power line poles lie charred and blackened on the ground. To the right of me, most of the landscape are burned and charcoal coloured. Small pockets of untouched fields are found, where I also can see sheep. The worst part of walking through the area is when the wind blows dust and ash in my face.
Approaching Carnedd Gwenllian, the views of the surrounding areas are diminishing.
Conwy Mountain is the last ascent on both The Snowdonia Way and The Cambria Way, although they take a different route over the hill. I remember that this is where I got the worst rain of all the days when I did the latter trail, but now I am on the fortunate side. Conwy Castle appears in view for the first time. The Cambria Way aim for the shortest route to the old castle, whereas The Snowdonia Way takes a scenic route by the way of the marine walk, approaching the castle from the Conwy River, but ends at the Statue of Llywelyn the Great at Lancaster Square.
Descent from Foel Fras.
Even though it rained at that time, I remember Conwy as a great place to end a wonderful trail, and I remember it as it was (without the rain). Having now finished The Snowdonia Way, I also feel that my hike of The Cambrian Way is finally complete. I stay at the YHA Hostel, a short walk outside of the town centre. The final day was a long day, so I am content to just spend the evening at the hostel, which is a laid-back place with a café. I repeat the pepperoni pizza and banoffee banana cake combo from YHA Pen-y-Pass.
A bleak view of the sea and northern parts of the Carneddau.
Last time I visited Conwy Castle, this time I paid a visit to the 16th century Plas Mawr (Great Hall), apparently the largest surviving Elizabethan town house in Britain. Very interesting, especially some of the figures that features in the ornate walls of its interior, and a superior view of the castle from its tower. The Conwy Town Walls are great way to view the town from above, but a section of the walls is now temporary closed. I am fascinated by the section of idols on the northern town wall, belonging to the St. Michael and All Angels' Catholic Church, as some of they appear to be almost regrown with vegetation. For a different shopping experience visit The Knight Shop. I also take my time to visit Llandudno to take the small tramway up to the Great Orme (the Great Worm?), viewing Conwy and the Eryri National Park from its summit before walking back down to Llandudno.
Walking through the remnants of the Pensychnant wildfire, the track a clear barrier.
I celebrate completing The Snowdonia Way with a good dinner at the Erskine Arms. I have had some great days of hiking on the trail, although there was sometimes where my feet were bugging me. I might repeat myself, but one thing that has always fascinated me about hiking in Britain is that even though you are not very high up, you are still walking in a very open landscape. And hiking in an open landscape is what I usually enjoy the most, whether it be undulating grassy hills, bleak desolate moorlands or jugged ridgelines that offers stunning views on its sides. With the exception of the last day, I had such good weather this time that I felt like a spoiled child. The weather also fuelled my biggest regret, the decision not to camp.
More burned scenery from the Pensychnant wildfire.
There is little doubt that The Snowdonia Way passes through some of the finest scenery Wales has to offer, especially hiking wise. Although I had decided to hike the mountain route, I feel a certain reservation that the original route feels more like a natural trail, while the high route slightly feels like being an extension of the original route done afterwards. As the trail shares a lot of the same routes as The Cambrian Way, there was no escaping hiking down the memory lane. I felt a great sense of joy when I came to places or paths that I recognised from before. Eleven days of great hiking on The Snowdonia Way. I might come back to do the original route.
Conwy with the castle and St Mary’s Church as seen from Plas Mawr.
The Snowdonia Way:
- part 1: Machynlleth - Trawsfynydd.
- part 2: Trawsfynydd - Pen-y-Pass.
- part 3: Pen-y-Pass - Conwy.
Wikiloc:
- stage 9: Pen-y-Pass - Capel Curig.
- stage 10: Capel Curig - Tyn-y-Maes.
- stage 11: Tyn-y-Maes - Conwy.
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