Distance: 32.4km (32.4km).
Gudbrandsdalsleden, or the main route of the St. Olavs Ways to Nidaros, is the most known pilgrim path in Norway, but there are more pilgrim paths to be found. Although, they are less known and less walked than Gudbrandsdalsleden. One of these are Røldalsleden. This is a 165km long pilgrim route going from Seljord in Telemark to Røldal in Vestland (previously Hordaland). The goal of the pilgrimage is the cross in Røldal stavkyrkje (a stave church), which was said to have miraculous powers, such as healing. From old times, pilgrims were walking to Røldal, often carrying votive gifts, to pray for healing, either for themselves or for others. The figure of Christ on the cross in the church was said to be 'sweating', and the 'sweat' was to have healing powers. There were especially two days of the year that were especially powerful, St. Michael's Day and Midsummer's Day. On these evenings and nights, pilgrims gathered in the church for a special mass. Now, a modern pilgrimage is going to the small, but wonderful stave church in Røldal.
Map of Røldalsleden (taken from the guidebook).
Røldalsleden has though, a rumour to it of being difficult to walk. Finding the way is not supposed to be easy, as waymarks are scarce and not particularly well maintained (although they are there). Overnight accommodation is not evenly spread out across the route (I plan to camp out each night). The same can be said about stores to buy food or provisions from along the way. However, a little bit of a challenge has never hurt anyone. And there is also a strong personal reason for why I am doing this pilgrimage. My grandfather was in his time responsible for marking the route from Seljord to Brunkeberg, one of his test prints has for a long time hung outside the garage at my family farm in Seljord. The waymark for the Røldalsleden is the Røldal cross inside the Norwegian icon for a landmark or sight. I would start my pilgrimage from where my grandfathers waymark is hanging.
Starting my pilgrimage on the Røldalsleden next to where my grandfather's waymark is hanging on the garage.
Seljord kyrkje, the starting point of Røldalsleden, with Mælefjell mountain behind.
Several members of my family are present and wishing me luck when I begin my pilgrimage. From my family's farm I will walk down to Seljord kyrkje (church), which is the official startpoint of Røldalsleden. High up in the trees close to the church, is one of my grandfather's waymarks hanging. Now it is faded and worn, a new one is hanging below it. Seljord kyrkje is dating back to 1180 and is a stone church built in Roman style and dedicated to St. Olav. A strange fact is that apparently five churches, two stone and three stave churches, was at one time standing here. So close, that the sound of the bells would intermingle in each other. From the church, the pilgrim path is going straight through the centre of Seljord, famous for its mythical sea serpent, Seljordsormen (known as Selma).
The labyrinth on the wall of Seljord kyrkje.
Typical Telemark mountains, with Skorve at the back to the right, seen as I leave Seljord.
In order to properly find the way, the guidebook 'Fann eg dei stigar' written by Una Høydal is necessary. The first sign that finding the way is not trivial, is found just after having left Seljord, where a waymark is telling me that I should continue further next the road. However, in my guidebook the route is to leave the road at the same place. The path has probably been rerouted, but I choose to follow the guidebook, as that way sounds more alluring. I know that by following the waymark, I would find myself walking on a winding road with cars racing by next to me, which would not be pleasant walking.
Passing by a wonderful Telemark farm, Heggtveit.
Walking next to a miniature gorge with a river running through it, under the vicinity of the Skogsodd peak.
Following the route described in the guidebook, the path takes me up in the hillside where the unmistakable Telemark landscape comes more into its own. I cross over an acre to a lovely farm, where I find some worn and faded waymarks on a pole, confirming that at least the route has gone this way before. Later I see another of my grandfather's wooden waymarks hanging high up in the trees. I walk through a pleasant forest, along a small gorge in miniature and next to a small bog before I return to the road I left earlier.
An almost hidden path going next to a bog.
St. Olavs Source, a water source lying next to Vigdesjå lake.
Next to the road and the Vigdesjå lake lies an old water source, says to be a place where Olav den Hellige (St. Olav) drank his fill. The source was later rumoured to have healing powers. Now the source is overgrown and almost hidden behind the stone monument, I find another of my grandfather's waymarks. I promptly return the waymark to a better place, making it visible from the road.
A hollow road, on the way to the Su-Sandland farm. This is on one of the sections where no waymarks tells you where to leave the road.
Crossing over an acre towards the Su-Sandland farm.
This way of walking the pilgrimage path is both exciting and a little bit unnerving. I find it exciting trying to find the way, by using the guidebook as no waymarkers are present. Leaving the road again, I find myself on an almost overgrown path and then on what is known as a hollow road. A hollow road is an old road or path that has sunk down in the terrain, gaining an u-shaped cross section, mostly due to erosion after being heavily used. I cross another field and pass a farm before walking on a quiet country road to get back to the busy highway. The reason for why I am unnerved is the fear that the pilgrimage has been rerouted to go next to the highway.
Brunkeberg kyrkje, the current church built in 1790.
Roholtfjellet mountain seen from Brunkeberg.
From Brunkeberg kyrkje, the route is going down into the valley below the highway on a gravel track. Again, no waymarks are present to show me where I have to go down from. In the distance, the characteristic Roholtfjellet is visible. Included in the views of the typical undulating Telemark terrain are farms with old buildings. The route goes almost all the way down to the bottom of the valley. Following at the first a gravel track, then a grassy track before ending up on a slightly overgrown path, I arrive at the remains of an old bridge at Fossjordbrekka. Only the foundations are left standing of this bridge from around 1850. Time for lunch, a gentle rain is starting and I sit down while thinking about the person known as the father of Telemark skiing, Sondre Norheim. At one time he was racing down the steep hill behind me that I will walk up afterwards and over the bridge, with the surface all icy and carrying his son in one of his arms.
View from Brunkeberg, on the trail leading down into the valley below.
The remnants of the old bridge at Fossjordbrekka crossing over the Morgedalsåi river, which was built around 1850.
Back up at the busy road, I have to follow the busy E134 road all the way to Morgedal and now the weather is not being any gentle towards me. It is starting to rain heavily, which is not pleasant when cars and trucks are passing by me at breakneck speeds. Morgedal is known as the cradle of skiing in Norway, home to Sondre Norheim, and is the first place on the pilgrimage after Seljord where you can find places to stay, eat and to buy food at. The route leaves the busy highway just before Morgedal, allowing you to walk on a quieter road the rest of the way into the village. Thankfully Norsk Skieventyr, a museum dedicated to the ski history of Norway, is open and I can sit inside for a respite from the heavy rain with a hot cup of coffee. I only saw one waymark between Brunkeberg and Morgedal.
From Fossjordbrekka, Røldalsleden is ascending up on this seemingly forgotten grassy road.
Waymarks next to the busy highway between Brunkeberg and Morgedal, these were the only ones I saw between the same two places.
Most of the houses and farms in Morgedal are found on the steep northern side of the valley, this is also where the path is going up. The rain has started to decline and when I am up at the beautiful Bjåland farms with its medieval loft, it has stopped. The view is absolutely wonderful. Behind me are clouds slightly dispersing, revealing tiny patches of light blue and the mountains in the horizon. One of my absolute favorite mountains, Skorve, is visible with the remains of the rain clouds flowing over it.
Although it was raining, it does not lessen the scenery of Morgedal.
Statue of Sondre Norheim, the father of Telemark skiing, outside the Norsk Skieventyr museum in Morgedal.
From the Bjåland farms, Røldalsleden is heading up into the hills and forests between Morgedal and Øyfjell. The path up is steep, but rewarding. When you finally are finished with the climb up through the woods, you find yourself in a verdant hilly landscape dotted with small lakes and marshes, with rolling peaks rising up in the distance. The soft green ground is covered with white cottongrass. What is important to know here is that the trail is now mostly marked with yellow blazes, although at some times the Røldalsleden waymark can be seen. When crossing over a marsh, the path is usually almost indiscernible, only a yellow blaze ahead tells you where to go. It would be difficult to find the way in very low visibility, but it is so beautiful.
Walking through Morgedal in rain, the path will take me up into the hills directly ahead of me.
One of the rare types pf waymarks of Røldalsleden, metal plaques with 'Pilegrimsvegen til Røldal' ('The Pilgrimage Path to Røldal') written on it.
I walk next to the Breivatn lake with Hovundvarden rising up behind, passing by small cottages where once old mountain farms where standing. The surface is however very wet and there is no hiding it. Trying to jump from a dry place to another is useless and I can do nothing but jump into it, I will be wet on my feet whatever way I go. Then the mountains in the east are appearing on the horizon, bright yellow light is issued in the gap between the mountains and the clouds above. Wonderful.
At the Bjåland farms with its medieval loft.
View of Morgedal and Morgedalstjønni from above the Bjåland farms.
The view of the mountains I will walk towards is a marvel to behold. White paches on the mountains are evidences that snow is still abound. I then emerge out to a gravel track going past both cabins and old famrs, with lovely views of the typical beautiful Telemark scenery. As I reach a junction, I know that I will turn sharp right, but there are again no waymarks to tell me so.
Breivatn with Hovundvarden rising up behind.
A lovely bog landscape in the hills and forests between Morgedal and Øyfjell.
It has been a long day. I follow the gravel track as clouds begins to disperse on the sky. When I reach the proximity of Myrkvarvvatn, I call it a day and venture down to the lake to search for a place to camp. It is a little bit of a tedious work, but eventually I find a nice place to pitch my tent and sit down to spend the evening at.
Path next to a creek above Morgedal.
In Morgedalsheiene.
Soon I sit down next to the water, listening to the slow hiss of my stove as it boils water for my dinner. Evening becomes lovely as clouds leaves the premises, the setting sun colors the sky in warm colors and peacefulness descends upon the lake. A fox is lurking on the other side of the lake.
View of the mountains in the west, and a typical Telemark landscape between.
Descent from Primkleiv.
The first day on the Røldalsleden pilgrimage path was both exciting, interesting, beautiful and a little bit unsettling. It was good to walk and seeing my grandfather's old waymarks still visible. Finding where the route went was a huge part of the excitement between Seljord and Morgedal. The scenery after climbing up from Morgedal over the hills and through the woods to my campsite at Myrkvarvvatn was just wonderful.
Fox lurking on the other side of the Myrkvarvvatn lake.
Myrkvarvvatn lake in the evening.
Tips and tricks for this part of the Røldalsleden (from Seljord to Myrkvarvvatn):
- * The path is propably rerouted between Seljord and Brunkeberg to go directly next to the busy highway, and possibly also between Brunkeberg and Morgedal. If trying to follow where the route originally went, you need the guidebook (Fann Eg Dei Stigar, Una Høydal), as no waymarks exists in terms of where the original route leaves the current path you are walking on.
- * Best place to find accommodation is in Morgedal, this is also the only place where you can get food at after Seljord.
- * The next shop after Morgedal is in Øyfjell, 21km away.
- * The next place to find accommodation is in Åmot, 39km away.
- * Between Morgedal and Øyfjell, the route is waymarked with yellow blazes (marks on trees, small wooden poles in the ground, small wooden bricks hanging in the trees). Waymarking and path could be hard to see in low visibility.
- * After arriving at Primkleiv, the route descends on a gravel track reaching a junction with another forest track. No waymarks exist in the junction, but you are to turn sharp right.
- * The normal stages on this part is Seljord to Morgedal, Morgedal to Øyfjell.
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