Distance: 25.3km (57.7km).
On day two, I wake up to a beautiful morning, still in the lower mountain scenery of the Morgedalsheiene. Today I will finish the walk between Morgedal and Øyfjell over these charming, idyllic and lovely undulating hills dotted with forests and lakes. And then I will spend the rest of the day mostly on the quiet country road between Øyfjell and Åmot, taking small detours into the nature and passing by small and scenic lakes. First, however, I get out of my tent and sit down by the lake to prepare my breakfast and morning coffee.
Near Fitjan, an old pasture in the mountains.
Back on the route, I am walking away from the Myrkvarvvatn lake and around it before getting back to it on its northern shore later on. On the way, the pilgrimage takes me next to an old mountain farm, Fitjan, which has been active in several hundred years, probably going all back to the Middle Ages. Given its location it is difficult to see why there once was a small chapel built here too according to the legends, no remains of it exists now. Although having a chapel on your property was a sign of prestige and power.
Cottongrass and mountains.
A yellow arrow is suddenly appearing to help me find the way.
The path I am walking on after Fitjan was once the old way over the mountains between Langlim and Høydalsmo. At first, it is hard to see it as a way, as it is hard to see it as a path too. Being able to spot the yellow blazes is the cue to find your way here. A welcome sight on this side of the walk between Morgedal and Øyfjell is the sudden appearance of a well known icon on the Caminos to Santiago. On several occassions you will here find yellow arrows to help you find the way.
Waymarking and path next to the Stavatjønn lake.
As expected, my shoes had not dried during the night and if there is any consolation to be found, it is that they would soon have been totally wet again. The walk continues in nearly the same vein as it ended yesterday. Wet and beautiful, but now underneath a clear blue sky. Ahead of me are some low unnamed peaks rising, before starting the climb up into them, the route takes me past the two lovely Stavatjønn and Kultantjønn lakes.
Looking out over the idyllic hills between Morgedal and Øyfjell.
Nordigardkriklan lake below.
You pass by the highest point on this leg of Røldalsleden at the top of the climb between the Kultantjønn and Nordigardkriklan lakes at 965m, the path is partially steep at places. Leaving the trail, I climb on top of a small hill that provides a wonderful view of the surrounding landscape. From the top I can take in all of the scenery I have walked through.
Sitting at the top of an unnamed peak, watching the beautiful Telemark landscape and where I have walked. Kultjantjønn and Stavatjønn lakes below.
Near Nordigardkriklan lake, I see the remnants of what has been a small chapel, Kriklankyrkja. Apart from the lovely scenery, the places I see and pass by seems to be one of the true joys of this pilgrimage. Seeing all the old farms, pastures, small chapels and history in the mountains, as well as the old farms and lofts in the valleys below. History that should not be forgotten.
What remains of an old chapel up in the mountains, Kriklankyrkja.
Idyllic walk after Nordigardkriklan lake.
With squelching feet, I continue my walk through this scenic and idyllic landscape. Come to think that it is so close to all the places I have hiked around here, but never have I been here before. It is a shame. Care must still be taken in terms of finding the path. Lonesome marshes with white cottongrass is passed as my eyes searches for the next yellow waymark. Where no buildings are no longer standing, but once stood at Nivelkinn, the trail begins its descent towards Øyfjell. A grassy track leading downwards before it abruptly changes to a gravel road, due to an excavation. I have entered the cabin area above Øyfjell.
Gjæslemotjønni, Røldalsleden goes around the lake to the right and leaves the lake on the opposite side.
Having my lunch in the middle of a cabin area is usually not what I prefer, but my stomach disagrees with me and demands action. Without doubt I could have found a more scenic spot, but when a table with benches appear next to the gravel track, I seize the opportunity.
On the descent from Nivelkinn.
Derelict barn at Trovatn, Raudsinutan behind.
Øyfjell lies at the end of this leg of Røldalsleden. This is a small woodland community with limited services to the passing pilgrim. Although there is a food store here, which also happens to be open on sundays. Accommodation however, is limited to Trovassli, a place that more caters towards larger groups than single walkers. I walk over to the shop, passing by what is left of the old bridge on the way. The old bridge was built between 1925 and 1930, at the time where only one car existed in the village. It is a warm day, contrary to yesterday, and some refreshments would be good. Other than that, I am in no need of buying provisions.
Vikåi in Øyfjell. The remnants of the foundations of the old bridge is visible in the middle of the picture.
Øyfjell kyrkje. A special thing about this church is that it is built completely square.
No waymarks points to the small church, although if you are following the route you would have to walk to it and back again. It is easy to find, however, despite its size. Øyfjell kyrkje is one of the smallest churches in Norway, consecrated in 1833 and with only space for 60 to 70 people.
A worn barn on the road after Øyfjell kyrkje.
Lupins.
A little after Øyfjell and its small church, the route is entering the road knows as Fiskestigen (which translates to 'The fishing ladder'). This is a quiet country road going between Øyfjell and Åmot. I prefer not to walk on roads, but this is at least a quiet road that sees few cars driving on it (except in the 'rush' hours before and after work). It is a little bland in the beginning, but after a slow climb up, the landscape opens up and the Sondovlivatn lake appears in the view close to the road.
Sondovlivatn lake.
Walking on the quiet Fiskestigen road next to Teddemodammen lake.
Waymarking on this stretch of the pilgrimage appear to be quite good. Røldalsleden does not go on the hard surface of the road all the way to Åmot. In between, it takes small protrusions into the woods and marshes next to the road, but here waymarks do exist to lead you on your way. Old and worn ones, similar to the ones my grandfather made, are here found next to the small paths going outside of the road. Good thing too, for the path is sometimes a little obscure.
On the detour off the road.
The walk takes me past the Sondovlivatn and Teddemodammen lakes, before making the first excursion into the woods on a pleasant path before arriving at the idyllic Mjåvatn lake. Just a few cars have passed me by while I walked on the road. The beautiful weather and pleasant scenery makes for a nice walk.
Hovdestøylnuten.
Fiskestigen road and Mjåvatn lake.
Mjåvatn is a really scenic and idyllic lake that would be a wonderful place to hike to if it was being situated unspoilt in the mountains. Thankfully the road is very quiet, but it is still there though. I sit down on a promontory in the lake, which would make for a great campsite. My feet and socks are all soaking wet, so it is good to take them out of the shoes and give them some air. I wonder how good the fishing is here. It is tempting to spend the evening and night here, but it is still too early to stop for the day and I want to put some more kilometres behind me before I stop.
Idyllic scenery at Mjåvatn lake.
In the background is the characteristic Vehuskjerringa mountain rising. Before Gregardstjønn, the path takes some short detours off the road. First to visit a small rock at Sisseldikji. In the rock you will find several crosses and arrows carved into it. Maybe it was pilgrims on their way to Røldal who has made the markings on the rock, but according to a myth it was made to commemorate a girl that was slain by a bear in a nearby marsh. Hence the name, Sisseldikji (Sissel is a Norwegian girl name).
Waymarks on a cliff.
Mjåvatn.
The second detour take the pilgrims to a ledge in a cliff, called Olavslega. This place is also related to Olav den Hellige (St. Olav). On a journey across Telemark, he had to make a camp here to wait for reinforcements from Seljord. The people from Vinje, who opposed him, had gathered in a nearby place and rumours was that they were more people than he had mustered. While he waited for them, Olav den Hellige found this ledge and had laid down on it to rest. At least, so goes the tale, but the name stuck, the Bed of St. Olav.
Vehuskjerringa mountain in the back.
After Olavslega, the trail begins its climb down towards Gregardstjønn and Åmot. Another detour goes steep down through the forest, while the next one does not feel really necessary. Only bypassing the road by 200m or so, and going on a very wet surface.
Crosses carved into the stone at Sisseldikji.
Old Røldalsleden waymark.
At Gregardstjønn, another idyllic lake, I part ways with Røldalsleden for today and go searching for a place to camp. Out on a promontory with a view of where the sun will set, I pitch my tent. A beautiful place to sit down in the evening at. From the shop, I had bought with me one can of beer, but before I can enjoy that I have to prepare and eat dinner. Another very good day is over when it gets chilly outside and I return to my tent for the night.
Olavslega, where St. Olav supposedly had slept while waiting for reinforcements from Seljord.
Evening at Gregardstjønn.
A much easier day in terms of finding the route. Waymarking was mostly good on this part of the Røldalsleden. Only places I missed better waymarking at was around Nivelkinn and from there down to Øyfjell. That the small detours from the Fiskestigen road was so good marked, I might take as a sign that the trail has been re-routed between Seljord and Morgedal, which is unfortunate.
Another idyllic lake to camp next to, Gregardstjønn.
Tips and tricks for this part of the Røldalsleden (from Myrkvarvvatn to Gregardstjønn):
- * After Fitjan (near Myrkvarvvatn lake), yellow arrows also helps you finding the route in addition to the yellow blazes.
- * Pay attention to where the route goes a little bit after leaving Myrkvarvatn, there is a small wooden bridge that you are not to cross, but should instead take to the right.
- * At Buin, where I encountered the excavation, the route follows the gravel track all the way down to Trovassli, but there are few waymarks here.
- * No waymarks pointing to Øyfjell kyrkje, although the way to it should be clear.
- * The only possible accommodation is at Trovassli in Øyfjell, but they usually only cater towards large groups. No harm, however, should be done by contacting them and ask if you can stay there.
- * After Øyfjell, the next place to find accommodation are the campsites in Åmot, first 15km, then 2km after that again.
- * Also, no shops between Øyfjell and Åmot, 18km later.
- * The normal stages on this part are Morgedal to Øyfjell, Øyfjell to Åmot.
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