Distance: 31.3km (130.0km).
The night was soft, the morning is chilly and I have another long day ahead of me. After heading out of Grungedal valley, Røldalsleden will journey through Edland and Haukeli before venturing up into the Haukeliheii mountains, undoubtedly the most exciting parts of today. After Haukeliheii, the trail will go past the upland lake of Vågslivatnet, then a larger cabin area before heading up into the Haukelifjell mountains. How far I will reach today, is yet to see, but my hope is to get up into those mountains before the end of the day.
Grunge kyrkje.
Walking next to the Tveitevatnet lake.
First, however, I have to finish the walk through Grungedal. From my campsite between Grungevatn and Tveitevatnet lakes, the trail heads towards Grunge kyrkje on a visible, but obfuscated path. Grunge kyrkje was built in 1850, after a building period of four years. The reason that it took so long, was that it was demanded that everyone that belonged to the parish should give timber or money to the construction of the church; but the peasants was not eager to provide timber and money it was little of. It is not a big church and unusually built in an empire style.
At the end of the Grungedal valley, the pilgrimage path leaves on a very obscure path, which is hard to find and follow.
Cliffside scramble, the cliffs that I had to scramble down from.
From the church, the pilgrim route largely follows the road next to Tveitevatnet lake, but thankfully on a good path next to the water and not on the road. Cars do roam past me, but the walk is still pleasant due to the surroundings.
Towards Edland.
Front window of an old and closed down store in Edland.
Out of Grungedal, another peculiar lost section of the trail is found. I am to walk about 50m after seeing a small red house to my right, then I am going to see a pilgrim mark and head onto a footpath into the woods. But there are no red house to my right and no mark to see. Passing by some small houses on my right, I know I have gone too far (according to my map).
Statue of Storegut in Edland.
Heading back, I see that there are people present at a cottage close to where I expected the footpath to be. I figure out I can walk up to them and ask if they know anything about the path. Not only do I get some answers, but they also invite me up for some food and coffee. For one who has experienced a lot of hospitality when walking abroad, it is great to experience the same thing at home, I am humbled. It turns out that she is actually the cousin of a well known Norwegian singer called Sondre Bratland (who is from this area, Edland to be specific).
An old mill at Haukeli.
On the climb up from Haukeli, with a view of Grungedal.
Matters are sorted out, the red house is long gone and there is a path going nearby, although not it its best condition. I struggle to find the path at first, even after being told where to find it, only when I get to a forest track do I find a more distinct path leading further. No waymarks, I suspect that this is yet another part left out to be forgotten. After trying as best I can do to follow the path, with the path sometimes not a path at all, I stand looking over the busy highway. Below me are some cliffs, with safety nets installed to catch any eventual rock falls, and no apparent way further. I end up go scrambling down the cliffs, hopefully not scaring any drivers on the road.
Vadfoss waterfall.
In Edland, Velemoen Camping provides accommodation in bungalows. This is another small community, but one famous person from here was anything but small, known as Storegut ('Big Boy'). He was a stout man, standing taller than everybody else. Despite being a good-natured and calm man, he was always challenged by other men who wanted to try their strength against him. He bested all of them, but eventually got into an argument with a man that lived on his childhood farm (from where Storegut had to leave when his father got in financial difficulty). One day Storegut disappeared while out with their herd, never to be found again. All believed he was killed, but the truth was never known.
Going through a birch path.
Apart from a shop at Arbuvollen, with uncertain and erratic opening hours, the supermarket at Haukeli is the last chance for buying provisions before you arrive in Røldal. To go there you have to leave the trail and walk half a kilometre. This is done where the path starts the climb up from Hedde Bru, marked with a 'Ålmannvegen' sign. You can also find accommodation nearby the supermarket, at Haukeli Motell.
The start of the Ålmannvegen path is slightly overgrown.
Having walked through Edland on hard surface, and made the detour to the supermarket to buy the last meals I need for the rest of my pilgrimage, I feel the new weight on my back on the climb up towards Haukeliheii.
Passing by the Varatjønn lake.
The path up towards the moorlands is a path with views, backward towards the narrow valley of Grungedal that I have walked through, forward towards the hill known as Åsen ('The Hill') where St. Olav is believed to have been standing on the top of of. Across the valley is the Vadfoss waterfall cascading down from the mountains. Old farms are passed by on both sides of the road, some with buildings dating back to before year 1350.
An old cairn up in the Haukeliheii moorlands.
From Hovsdalen valley, the pilgrim path to Røldal is making use of the old road across the mountains between east and west of Norway, known as 'Ålmannvegen'. Initially, the path is overgrown, but adequately waymarked with the returning yellow blazes from the hike over Morgedalsheiene (between Morgedal and Øyfjell). The cross of Røldal waymark is also seen along the way, but pay attention anyway.
Across the Haukeliheii.
The landscape of Haukeliheii is similar to the moorlands between Morgedal and Øyfjell passed over earlier, but lighter and more open. And the scenery appear far more green. Both equally beautiful, adorned with lakes. Hills rising up, all gazes leads towards the higher mountains ahead, with snow still lingering on top of them.
The lovely scenery of the Haukeliheii mountains and moorlands.
It is a stunning walk, unquestionably the highlight of today and I am so lucky with the weather. After the rain on the first day, I have just had a hot and beautiful sky above me, but there is a chill wind blowing in. The path is good, and dry. Occasionally, an old cairn are spotted next to the path. Around me are scattered mountain birchs, sometimes many, but never so many that they forms tight clusters of forest. White cottongrass fluttering in the breeze. Here and there are some small cottages visible. I find a spot for lunch, heating up my stove for a hot meal and a cup of coffee.
Røldalsleden over Haukeliheii.
At Raftdalsmoen, coming down from Haukeliheii, I struggle to find the way further. Quite significantly is a signpost for 'Ålmannvegen' almost hidden inside a small tree. No bridge, as I was supposed to find, is present, but a detour on the gravel track leading up to the mountain farm provides a way for me to cross the river on another bridge and get back to the route later on.
Amundtjønn, one of the lakes that I had singled out to spend the night at, but proved to be too early.
Verpi or Ålmannsrøysa, a cairn where the travellers are supposed to leave a stone for the remainder of the journey should go well.
A pleasant, but more wet walk follows, as the route crosses several marshes and creeks. At one place I take a wrong turn, all my own fault, and have to backtrack to get back on route. I spot another of those waymarks where the mark is about to peel off the wooden brick it is posted on. A gravel pit appears like a gash, but is quickly passed by.
Raftdalsmoen.
Signpost hidden in the trees at Raftdalsmoen.
Time has flown by when I arrive at the shores of the Vågslivatnet lake, being almost half past six in the afternoon. This means I have used about 9.5 hours getting this far today, only walking about 20km. At the back of the lake rises a flat line of mountains, with large patches of snow on them. Above is the sun creating reflections of light on the surface. And a fine track, which the pilgrimage is following, is going alongside the water. Accommodation can be found here at the Haukelifjell Gjestehus.
A small wooden bridge to a nearby cabin.
At Vågslidtun Hotell (if you require some more luxurious accommodation, this is the place), I stop for a beer, but what is really tempting is to buy dinner here. Now is the season for mountain trout and I doubt my planned dinner for the evening will be as delicious.
Moor and marshland.
Path towards the Vågslivatnet lake.
No sign is found pointing towards 'Vågslid Villmark' as it is stated in the guidebook, but where the wilderness ('Villmark' in Norwegian) is to be found is beyond me. The scenery around me is definitely mountainous and in nature, but wilderness it is not. How can it be with a busy highway running straight through it? Not to forget that the trail goes straight through a big cabin area (there is a possibility that this cabin area is what is named 'Vågslid Villmark', as a selling point for the cabins). I quickly go past the big cabins (why do people need cabins that are so big? it is as you bring with you everything from your normal everyday life, when the idea of getting out in the nature is to get a break from your everyday life). This cabin area is walked through after the end of Vågslivatnet lake and you can find both accommodation and possibly the last shop before Røldal at Arbuvollen nearby (you have to leave the trail though).
Vågslivatnet.
At Tyrveli, another cabin area and a ski station ('Haukelifjell Skisenter'), Røldalsleden is heading up into the Haukelifjell mountains. The route goes up on one of the slopes of the ski station, but which one? Again no waymarks. Consulting and comparing the description and map in the guidebook with my papermap, I make a choice of taking the track leading less steep up from the ski station paraphernalia (the one going westwards at the left). One of the metal waymarks that has the stave church engraved on it, but with all the engravings gone, confirms that I am on the right way (the track has turned into a path at this time). It is getting late, when I begin the ascent, the clock ticking in at half past eight.
Cottongrass in the cabin area.
Eivindbuvatn lake.
As the cabins mostly disappears from view, the scenery changes to low heather and small creeks originating from nearby small lakes. A network of paths is crossing my way, which one is the true pilgrimage path is hard to know, but my destination is clear enough. A lone cabin or old pasture is visible on the other side of a lake, Tyrvelistøylen. At the pasture, I return to the old mountain way of 'Ålmannvegen', wondering why the pilgrimage left it at all. No one in the cabin, so I pick a nice spot close to the lake. At a quarter past nine, this is the latest end of a walk so far on the pilgrimage.
At Haukelifjell Skisenter, the trail leaves on the gravel track seen to the left.
It is a nice spot. Quiet and with a nice view of the snowclad mountains, the cabins at Tyrveli are barely visible. I eat the last of the meals I brought with me (half a bag of freeze-dried food). Although late, I need a coffee. As darkness settles, I retreat to my tent and a special treat; from the store at Haukeli, I have brought with me a beer.
View from above Tyrveli.
It got late, but I made it as far as I had hoped, reached the Haukelifjell mountains. Another day with beatiful weather and a varied walk. Without doubt the hike over the Haukeliheii moorlands was the highlight of the walk, that section was simply put wonderful. To encounter hospitality at home was also great, especially on a solitary walk like this. Finding the way proved reasonably good today, but with some places requiring special attention. This is still a part of the pilgrimage that needs improvement for it to become more accessible to most people.
At Tyrvelistøylen, I camped just across the little lake.
Tips for this part of the Røldalsleden (from Straumen to Tyrvelistøylen):
- * The path down to the stream between Grungevatnet and Tveitevatnet towards Grunge church is messy, but waymarked.
- * At the end of the Grungedal valley and Tveitevatnet lake, the trail is leaving the road on a short detour through the woods, but this path is hard to find and is not waymarked at all. It might actually be better to continue on the busy highway (E134) instead of trying to find the path. The small red house mentioned in the guidebook has been demolished.
- * In Edland, accommodation can be found at Velemoen Camping, and not long after at Haukeli (H. Motell). After Haukeli, the next place to find a place to stay is at Vågsli, either at Haukelifjell Gjestehus or Vågslidtun Hotell (about 8km or 11km later). At Arbuvollen, a small detour off the route shortly afterwards, you can also find accommodation.
- * Beware that with the exception of the mountain cabin run by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT) at Haukeliseter, there are no accommodation to be found after making the climb up from Tyrveli, until you reach Røldal.
- * Food stores can be found at Haukeli and Arbuvollen. Arbuvollen is the absolute last place to get provisions from before the final 43km to Røldal. The supermarket at Haukeli is the best bet, as Arbuvollen is more uncertain when it comes to opening hours.
- * The waymarking over the Haukeliheii moorlands is generally good, but beware that the yellow blazes are the ones to follow here, although you will also find the usual Røldalsleden waymark here too.
- * At Raftdalsmoen, the waymarks disappear, as well as the bridge that was used to cross the river. If wading across the river does not strike a tune in you, a detour can be found by taking the gravel track leaving the mountain farm to the southwest. Shortly after crossing the river on a bridge, you can then take the first gravel track to the right at a junction. This gravel track will bring you back to the pilgrimage path again.
- * The path could be cumbersome after the gravel pit before Vågslid.
- * No waymarking through the cabin area after Vågslidvatnet lake.
- * At Tyrveli and Haukelifjell Skisenter (ski station) the path is going on the gravel track leading less steep up from the back of the ski station. There are no waymarks providing you directions for this, and I saw only one waymark on the way up (with missing engravings on it).
- * If you miss the correct track up from the ski station, but take another slope instead, you should still be able to get back on the route by looking for the Tyrvelistøylen cabin. It stands quite solitary to the north / northwest, next to a lake.
- * Look for this solitary cabin, Tyrvelistøylen, when getting up to the moorlands above Tyrveli, there are many paths crossing here and no waymarks.
- * The normal stages on this part are Mjonøy to Edland, Edland to Vågsli, Vågsli to Ulevå.
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