Røldalsleden // day 3 // Gregardstjønn - Straumen

Røldalsleden, day 3.
Distance: 41.0km (98.7km).

Third day would see me cover the end of the stage between Øyfjell and Åmot, then the stage between Åmot and Mjonøy, before taking a big bite of the stage between Mjonøy and Edland. Meaning I had a long day ahead of me as I woke up at Gregardstjønn to another lovely morning. Through these areas of Telemark, Røldalsleden is going on idyllic old ways, rural roads, small footpaths, but also next to the busy highway, with old houses and inspiring scenery ever close to the path. My projected place to end the day meant a small uncertainty when it comes to finding a place to camp.

Forest path between Gregardstjønn and Hyllandsfoss.

From Gregardstjønn, the pilgrim path is heading down towards the centre of Vinje municipality (the largest municipality in Telemark), Åmot. It does so on another obscure and wet path going through the woods. Without the waymarks, it would be quite difficult to locate the path, which mostly is concealed by heather. Waymarking when the trail goes through the woods has so far been good, which I find uplifting, but it is still sometimes a little bit problematic to see where the route leaves the roads to enter the woods. It is a pleasant walk in the early day.

View from above Åmot with the mountains in the background.

Ormetjønn lake, passed by on the way out of Åmot.

At Hyllandfoss the path goes through the campsite with the same name (the first place you will find accommodation in Åmot at), but the route through the campsite and the ensuing forest is unclear. Eventually, I find myself on the road leading down to the centre of the village, but before reaching the village the route goes through the next campsite, Groven. I spot no waymarks either pointing to where I should enter the campsite and through it, but I know that I should reach Vinje Forsvarsmuseeum (the Vinje museum of defense).

Røldalsleden going up the steep Bæjuvbrekke, where once cars had to drive up when this was the old way.

Trolldomssteinen (The magic rock), listen carefully when walking alone past this stone, something might be following you.

In Åmot, Vinje Kro is a hub for the express buses between the west and east of Norway and I had hoped to get a cup of coffe at the café. However, the day is still early and the café has yet to open. I have to settle for coffee at the nearby gas station. For those needing to buy provisions, there are several food stores in Åmot, but beware that there are no more until you reach Haukeli about 44km later.

An old loft with a Christmas gnome (nisse).

Going through an acre.

Where Røldalsleden goes from Åmot is a little bit tricky, but it leaves the village at the backside of the Spar shop. Once down you leave the noise from the busy highway and find yourself next to the Ormetjønn lake. From the small scenic lake, the trail will follow old ways all the way to Vinje, only crossing the busy highway at times. The way is far from flat and at Bæjuvbrekka the trail goes steep up a hill where in old times cars also had to drive. For those old cars, this climb was so hard that local boys made money by helping pushing the cars up, but not all the cars made it to the top and had to make a long detour instead.

On the old road leading up the infamous Vinjebakkane, here someone has made painted boxes next to the path.

Remains of the old school at Blankeskar. Built in 1862 and was used as a school until 1934.

Further on there is a large rock called Trolldomssteinen (The magic rock), a signboard next to it tells me that if I walk alone past the rock I have to listen good. Then I would hear that there is someone following me. I will keep what I heard to myself.

Passing by Mule farm. In the last time of the life of Halldis Moren Vesaas, she used to walk up to this farm every day. One day the farmer had set out two white chairs for her to rest on, leading to her writing the 'To kvite stolar' (two white chairs) poem.

Old loft at Mule farm, with a face looking back at you.

The path here goes past places where once an old mill house stood, where there once was a market, on top of a wall called Brubryggja (The bridge pier) and through the old farm of Bru. The loft at this farm is from 1760, but the smaller loft is even older. I come down to dam at the Vinjeåi river. The waymarking when first finding it after Åmot has been good, but at Øygarden I miss a turnoff and finds myself on a disappearing path in the woods outside the farm. When back on track, I walk on a path that gets overgrown and ends on a just as overgrown walk through an acre.

Midtbø, home of the poet couple Tarjei Vesaas and Halldis Moren Vesaas.

Crossing the highway, Røldalsleden is continuing to use the old ways. Be sure not to miss the turnoff the lookout point at Kikås, which I did. The track is now going past the infamous Vinjebakkene. This old road was built under the notion that it should be going in as straight way as possible, disregarding the fact that it would mean some steep climbs for the travellers. Several wooden boxes with paintings on are passed by. After Mule farm, whose history goes far back, I descend down to a spot where I can overlook Midtbø, the home of a famous Norwegian poet-couple, Tarjei Vesaas and Halldis Moren Vesaas.

A log cabin and the mountains.

Tjodvorlie, a scenic farm where the artist Nils Aas used to spend his holidays.

Moments after glimpsing Midtbø, Røldalsleden is heading back up into the hills again. Now the path is less apparent, the surface is at times overgrown, but thankfully the terrain and contours of the landscape are giving away where the trail has to go. Overgrown also means flowers, so it is quite nice actually. The path heads down to busy highway again past some nice old farms and lofts, with the mountains as a backdrop.

At Bøgrend, I find the pilgrim path fenced off.

Probably the ugliest sight so far on Røldalsleden. The scar left behind by the expansion of the highway at Bøgrend (this will hopefully be better when the construction is finished). At the turn at the end of the road, the trail is heading down towards Vinjevatn lake.

At Bøgrend there are two problems in my way. First I find the path barred off by a fence, which is solved by climbing over it. Secondly, an expansion of the busy highway has led to the construction is hiding where to turn off and go down to the Vinjevatn lake. Here a waymarker on a pole looks forlorn amidst the chaos from the construction debris. Some time is lost trying to locate the path, but eventually I find the route down to the lake where a picnic table is a convenient spot for lunch.

A serene view of the Vinjevatn lake and mountains behind.

Walking through a meadow with flowers towards Vinje kyrkje.

To Vinje kyrkje Røldalsleden is going through a lovely meadow. The church is where Tarjei Vesaas and Halldis Moren Vesaas are buried, is painted in a red color and the foundations have rose paintings in black. Vinje is also where another poet had his home, Aasmund Olavsson Vinje. After a short stint on a side road, the longest stretch of road walking on the busy E134 road is awaiting me. From Vinje, it goes all the way to Mjonøy, approximately 3km later. The traffic comes in waves, which is fortunate, and is probably due to the convoy over Haukelifjell mountain. Vinjesvingen Handel, a small store selling local products and delicacies, provides a friendly coffee stop.

The characteristic colored Vinje kyrkje.

Details of the red-painted church in Vinje, notice the black rose paintings on the foundation.

Mjonøy is a campsite that also provides accommodation in cabins. Although close to the road, it is a nice place. And they have a wonderful bakery. After gorging on a juicy cinnamon bun, I follow the path out of the campsite through the woods, before going on winding small roads at Smørklepp (home of the art gallery Vinje Biletgalleri). Here, when having left the hamlet behind, Røldalsleden is going on a path about to disappear in the undergrowth. It is a nice path, but watch out for the small yellow waymark pointing towards where the path leaves the rural road.

Monument to Aasmund Olavsson Vinje.

Inside the bakery at Mjonøy Camping.

Grungedal is where I have my mind set on for the night, the walk there goes on a pleasant, calm and quiet road (Heievegen) on the east side of the Smørkleppåi river. Mountains are reaching up on each side and my legs are now feeling like they have been walking up those mountains rather than in the valleys below. I spend some time talking to a local couple giving me some advice on where I could find a place to camp.

On the trail through Smørklepp.

Overgrown pilgrim path after Smørklepp.

I miss the turnoff down to the first possible place to find a place for my tent, but manages to find another route to it shortly after. The place has so much a hillbilly-feeling to it, probably nothing to be afraid of, but I leave it be. The walk through Grungedal is an interesting one. It is nice to see the haymaking being done in the old and traditional way. A huge rock named Tovslandkyrkja (the Tovsland church) lies at the entrance to Grungedal village. There has always been strong beliefs attached to huge rocks like this one, both in heathen times and in the ensuing Christian times. So as with other rocks of this size there are various myths and legends connected to it, one sinister one is that a honeymoon was resting here and the rock plunged over them. Everyone in the company was killed and they are supposedly still lying underneath the rock.

A narrow loft.

Scenic road next to the Smørkleppåi river.

After walking through the quiet village centre, the pilgrim path heads through a couple of acres on an overgrown and difficult path to follow. This is all found due to the guidebook, as waymarks are literally non-existent. Another part I suspect to be re-reouted, as really is the case after getting back to the road, where new waymarks directs me to a path that diverges from the one described in the guidebook. This rerouting is however welcome, as it goes on a gravel track instead of alongside the busy road.

Quiet walk towards Grungedal with the mountains closing in.

Between the two lakes of Grungevatn and Tveitevatnet, at Straumen, I find a good campsite. Secluded and with a nice place to enjoy the evening and setting sun at. As well as for preparing my dinner.

In Grungedal.

Another overgrown path, in Grungedal.

A lot more roadwalking on this leg of Røldalsleden, but fortunately the longest stretch on the highway saw less traffic than expected. Scenery was mostly nice throughout the walk, disregarding the scar of the construction around the highway at Bøgrend. Most scenic sections was from Gregardstjønn and down to Hyllandsfoss, and then between Åmot and Bøgrend.

Afternoon sun from my campsite at Straumen.

Tips and tricks for this part of the Røldalsleden (from Gregardstjønn to Straumen):

• * Waymarking was good from Gregardstjønn and down to Hyllandsfoss, but difficult through the campsite. No waymarkers down to Åmot and through the next campsite. If unsure of finding the route, you can just follow the road and you will get to the centre of Åmot to pick up the trail (behind the Spar shop).
• * If unsure to find the route from Åmot, get down to the east side of the Ormetjønn lake (you should see the lake if walking on the busy highway).
• * Åmot is the first place to find accommodation, at the Hyllandsfossen and Groven campsite.
• * There are also accommodation to be find at the campsite in Mjonøy, about 18km after Åmot. In Grungedal, 13km later, accommodation can be found at Visit Svalastog.
• * The only food stores on this part of Røldalsleden is in Åmot, next store is located approximately 44km later at Haukeli.
• * Finding the path after Ormetjønn lake should be easy, but it is easy to miss where the path heads back up to the road next to a garage at Øygarden farm later on. The ensuing path is likely to be overgrown and takes you through an acre.
• * It is not easy to spot the waymarks leading to the forest path after Midtbø.
• * In Bøgrend the route is leaving the road just before the junction towards Våmårtveit, but there are no waymarks. This path soon gets barred off by a fence, which it is possible to climb over, but if you want to avoid that, you can just continue on the road instead (the original route will rejoin the road a little bit later).
• * If the construction is still ongoing at the turn leaving Bøgrend, the pilgrim path is heading down towards the lake below it. The track was visible when I walked there, but consisted of a lot of overturned roots and stones from the construction.
• * Could not spot any waymarks at Vinje kyrkje, but you are to follow the road on the upside of the church.
• * Instead of walking on the road, there is supposedly a track or path that you can follow on the east side of the Smørkleppåi river. You need to turn off before the bridge. This was supposed to be a new waymarked route, but I could not see any waymarks pointing in that direction.
• * No waymarks through the hamlet of Smørklepp, and a yellow waymark that could be hard to see tells you where to find the path after Smørklepp. Pay attention as to where you get back to the road again.
• * Walked straight past where the route is to leave the road after Grunge bridge (a more clearer track is found soon afterwards though).
• * After walking through Grungedal centre, the route is leaving the road on a overgrown and difficult path to follow, no waymarks.
• * Path rerouted after coming back to the road after the overgrown path, if not following the difficult path, look for waymarks next to the road.
• * The normal stages on this part are Øyfjell to Åmot, Åmot to Mjonøy, Mjonøy to Edland.

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