Camino Portugués // day 1 // Lisboa - Alpriate

Camino Portugués, day 1.
Distance: 22.3km (22.3km), time spent: 6:59.
Weather: Nice.

The Camino Portugués is the name of the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain starting in Lisboa, Portugal. Although the majority of pilgrims on this Camino starts from either Porto or Tui. Going from Lisboa, the whole route covers over 600km. When arriving in Porto, the pilgrims has to choose between walking the central route or the coastal route. I have my mind set on the coastal route, but as Porto is still quite a couple of days away, I have good time to change my mind. I had flown down from Oslo the day before and had spent some time exploring Lisboa. Normally, it is a city worth spending a couple of days in at least. However, when I am at the start of a new walk, my mindset is all about the walk.

The cathedral of Lisboa, Sé de Lisboa, from where the Camino Portugués begins its journey to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

The first three days on the Camino Portugués are relatively short days if you follow the regular itinerary, so I had decided to combine two of the stages into one day. Making it two days to Azambuja, instead of three. I had also heard that the first days are quite boring and less interesting, so by doing it this way, I will be quicker finished with the boring parts too.

Praça do Município in Lisboa.

Chafariz do Carmo, a fountain outside the Convento do Carmo.

Starting my pilgrimage with the shortest day of the two, I would have some more time to explore Lisboa before I start walking in the direction of Alpriate about 20k away. The first (and last) time I was in Lisboa, Portas do Sol beneath the Castelo de São Jorge quickly became one of my favorite spots in the city. With views overlooking the Alfama district and the Rio Tejo. I walk from one Bairro to another, crossing Baixa by Praça do Comércio with the Arco da Rua Augusta. The large square is almost cordoned off by fences. Convento do Carmo is a former Catholic convent that got destroyed during the devastating earthquake in 1755. I wanted to make a revisit to the scene, but as I feared, it has not opened yet by the time I am there. Instead, I go to the Igreja de São Roque, which was one of the few buildings in Lisboa that actually survived the earthquake almost intact. It is a beautiful church, although the exterior does a good job of hiding it. Then I return to my guesthouse to fetch my backpack, Largo da Sé guesthose, crossing over Rossio on the way.

Igreja de São Roque.

The ruins of the Convento de Carmo in Lisboa.

The official start of the Camino Portugués is at the cathedral of Lisboa, Sé de Lisboa (you can get the pilgrims credential at the cathedral). However, the only thing that marks the beginning of the Way is a small yellow arrow on the bottom right corner of the cathedral entrance. The first few kilometres of the approximately twenty to the small village of Alpriate, goes through the heart of Alfama. Which is a wonderful tangled network of narrow streets and squares, with the waymarking equally confusing. This is the oldest district of Lisboa, the name is of Arabic origin and means something like hot fountains or baths. If you want to experience a Fado concert, this district is the place to go.

At the start of the Camino Portugués, the street under maintenance.

Alfama, on the other hand, does not last forever and wider and less interesting streets soon replaces the small and pleasant streets. This will constitute the majority of the walk today, but the joy of having started on another adventure far outweights the less interesting scenery I expect to see on this first day.

The Camino going through the narrow and atmospheric streets of Alfama in Lisboa.

One thing you can expect when walking the Camino Portugués, is to see the azulejos, or the famous tiles of Portugal. Even with the late start, I have to time visit the Museu Nacional do Azulejo. The museum is located inside a monastery from the 16th century, the Mosteiro da Madre de Deus, and houses a great range of tiles of various sizes and appearances. There are tiles that together forms a bigger picture, tiles with ornate patterns in various colors, modernistic looking tiles and more. Tiles for any taste you may say. Greatest maybe, is the large panoramic view of Lisboa before the devastating earthquake.

Street art on a huge wall.

After some less interesting walking, I arrive at the newest district of Lisboa, the Parque das Nações. This district saw its 'birth' after the World Exhibition of 1998, due to an urban renewal programme. I am not entirely sure if I follow the correct path through this modern part of the city, with all its installations, and technology and science looking buildings. It is a more fun walk, though. Starting this late in the day, I had not expected to meet any other pilgrims. In fact, I was unsure of how many others I would meet at all. However, walking closer to the Vasco da Gama Tower, I become aware of another walker carrying something really similar to my guidebook. Unfortunately, I loose sight of him.

Tiles in the Museu Nacional do Azulejo.

I had hoped to get up to the observation deck of the Vasco da Gama Tower, but it is closed. Instead, I go for a roundtrip in the cable car, giving me a good view of the same area that I walked through on foot before. Parque das Nações is a good place to stop for refreshments or lunch on the way to Alpriate. For me, it is high time for lunch.

Inside the Mosteiro da Madre de Deus.

Scenery-wise, the walk is at its best when it leaves Parque das Nações and the Vasco da Gama Tower. Here, I find myself on a promenade going next to the Rio Tejo. Stretching out over the river is the 17km long Ponte Vasco da Gama. You can follow the bridge as its gets smaller and smaller in the horizon. The Way alternates between going on boardwalks and on larger paths, before hard surface walk again takes over.

I spotted this derelict tower from the road below and had to walk up towards it. The railroad out of Lisboa goes below.

Praça David Leandro da Silva, passed by on the way through Lisboa.

When I flew in to Lisboa yesterday, I could see where I would be going from the plane. I could even make out Santarém from above, which I should come to in two days. From the plane, I could also see a green valley with a river running through it, with just a few scattered buildings. Most ruins by the look of them. Given all the walking through the suburbs of Lisboa that I knew I had to do, I had hoped that the Camino went into that particular valley. Seeing the yellow arrows and scallops pointing the way towards the valley, I was glad.

A fountain in the Parque das Nações.

Although, the look from above gave the valley a far more idyllic appearance than was the truth. The most apparent change is however the temperature. Here, the wind is no longer following me and everything gets hotter and more stiffling. Despite this, I find myself enjoying the walk through the valley. The landscape is more open. Ruins of old farms can be seen here and there. Sweating, I pass by the ruins of the old Quinta do Monteiro Mor and Quinta do Brasileiro.

View towards the Vasco da Gama Tower and Bridge from the cable car (Teleferico de Lisboa).

Ponte Vasco da Gama, this bridge crossing over the Rio Tejo is 17km long.

I am not far from my destination now, but the heat has turned my lips dry, so I make a quick escape to a bar in Granja not far away from the Camino. Funnily enough, but I find being at a bar with a cold refreshment and a café com leite to be the moment that I most felt myself being back on a Camino.

Boardwalk promenade next to the Rio Tejo.

With the exception of the one other pilgrim I just saw for a short time, I have not met any other pilgrims today. Then again, I did start late. Maybe it was pushing my luck too long. At the Albergue de Peregrinos in Alpriate, I get the last bed. There are only 12 beds in the albergue. Shortly after I arrive, the hospitalero has to turn away another pilgrim. Fortunately, he is riding a bike, so it should not take him too long time to get to another place.

Street art in Sacavém.

Being back in an albergue is also a great way of feeling back on a Camino. It is a nice little albergue too. As always, the nationalities are diverse. Among the nations represented here are Canada, the United States, Denmark, England and France. And two women that had packed way too much for a Camino and had arrived almost white in their faces from the strain. The hospitalero was busy going through their backpacks, helping them getting rid of all the things they would not have any need for. He is a kind man, also working at an albergue in Albergaria a Velha, and would take their surplus stuff with him there for them to pick up later.

Alpriate has two places where you can go for dinner. I go eating together with Noell from France, Paul from Canada and Erika from Denmark at the Grillus Bar. At the table, I can see Paul just looking at the bottle of beer he has got, before he promptly exclaims that this is the cheapest beer he has ever had. The food and drinks are cheaper here than in Spain, so this should not be an expensive Camino. That said, there are less albergues on this Camino and one has to be content by staying at a more high-end alternative.

It was a not so bad first day after all.

The Camino going past the ruins of the large Quinta do Monteiro Mor.

Azambuja >>