Distance: 25.6km (311.0km), time spent: 7:35.
Weather: Clear blue sky.
There are no places open nearby for breakfast, so we take our chances in finding a café in one of the first villages we will come to. I should have to walk 12km before finding a place to eat. This will be the second of two days that is shorter than usual. Yesterday was probably a tad short for me, but today it would not matter much. I have some hope that Águeda will provide some additional entertainment.
A red dawn in the morning outside Sernadelo.
It is a wonderful light in the sky when we start walking, pure red and purple hue. And thankfully it has just got enough light when we come to a pine and eucalyptus forest. The only downside is that the walk through the forest is too short. The light is wonderful through the trees, giving it too a sheen as if there is a haze moving through the trees too. This would be where the mythical creatures and beings comes to life in ones imagination, maybe a Mouro or even a Moura Encantada lurks in the hidden parts of this forest.
After Sernadelo, the Camino enters a short, but wonderful eucalyptus forest path.
This morning has been an upgrade from yesterday, but it will not last as I know the Camino will go through some industrial areas later. For now, I enjoy walking through villages on nice country roads, with the purple sky before sunrise. It almost would have looked like a painting, if it had not been for the power lines breaking the illusion. All the time looking for a café, no one is open.
From the eucalyptus forest after Sernadelo.
Some less interesting walk later past the Anadia sports complex and futebol clube, the only exception being a wonderful light when I was passing by a cemetery in Anadia, the Camino goes through the outskirts of Anadia. Here, I go past several worn, dilapidated and impoverished buildings. Many abandoned. Some of the houses are inhabited. At some point, this place must have been thriving, but has failed to stand the test of time. The café in Alféloas is of course closed.
Santiago de Compostela.
Now something strange happens. Ciaran was just ahead of me, but suddenly I find Françoise in front of me between us. Where did he came from? Then Guus appear behind me, and she had started before me in Sernadelo. Someone must be playing some trick with me. We pass by some villagers making creative use of tractors and small trucks to cut hedges in a neighboorhood. They cannot help but smile when they see me and Françoise taking pictures of them in action.
Sunrise through the trees.
In Avelãs de Caminho, I finally find a place to eat brunch, Caminho Bar. After 12k of walk without having anything to eat, it was about time. Ciaran was in another place here, and I was surprised to stumble upon him, believing him to be further ahead.
Cemetery in Anadia.
I come to the Caves São João where wine tasting is possible, but I do not see anybody in the reception so I move on. Later regretting not trying harder, as two other pilgrims come talking about how happy they were with their visit. While the walk is not particularly scenic, it does have some interesting sights. I pass by a stately farm, Quinta da Grimpa, a solitary gate next to the road, and a church in Aguada de Baixo covered in tiles.
Abandoned building in the outskirts of Anadia.
The walk through another industrial area is salvaged by a kind person. About to leave work, a man stops his car and comes out, handing me a small bag consisting of a bottle of water and two apples. I have seldom experienced this on a Camino, but frequently when I did the Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage in Japan. Always unexpected, but always appreciated.
Local people trimming the hedges while Françoise is taking a photo of them.
Walk gets better when approaching Águeda. History passes by us, by the Fonte do Atalho from 1467. Buildings in various colours and tiles. And a small park before going over the bridge to Águeda, with the buildings of the town reflected in the river. I spot Ciaran leaving the small square across the bridge just as I walk into it, but I have to leave him going. For several reasons. I need a late lunch and I want to have a look at the street with the umbrellas as roof. Águeda has something special in store, and I will go in detail on that later.
Portuguese tiled house with window frame.
Ciaran seems to take the more direct route towards our accommodation for the night, Albergue Santo António, with the only drawback is its location a little outside the town. I, on the other hand, has to follow the proper route. Going on a little detour around the town, but then making me see more of what Águeda has to offer. Huge upside down umbrellas. A large bird made up of various scrap on the wall of a building. A man on a swing. The words 'Tao Bela' (so beautiful) on some buildings, only visible when you stand at a proper position.
An old mansion covered in vines.
I take a liking to the Albergue Santo António the moment I arrive. Ciaran is here already, naturally. As is Guus, Alex and Chiara. Alex and Chiara are as always early up and leaves way before me, and also arrives way before me. When the chores has been done and we have rested some, we all go down to the centre of the town.
The streets of Borralha, just before arriving in Águeda.
Águeda is wonderfully quirky and looks like the street art capital of something, the streets are full of various urban art. While the others are having something to eat, I pick up a map of the town at the local tourist information, where I can see where the various arts and installations are. At first, I walk on a street underneath a canopy of umbrellas of various colors. In another street, the umbrellas has patterns on them. Further up in the town, I find a street that has a canopy of balloons instead, and then another with ribbons fluttering in the air. A staircase is painted as a river with people relaxing on inflatable boats. A big black tinker with many small yellow persons on him. I do not have the time to see it all.
Águeda.
Man on a swing, on a building next to the Camino going through Águeda.
Joining the rest of the group, we go for a round in the town, being my second. When approaching the Igreja Matrix, we come dangerously close to an angry craftsman working above us. Things are definitely not going his way, and in a rage he throws his bucket away. It clatters down on the street not far away from us. We quietly retreats to a course out of his reach.
The wonderful and quirky Rua Luís de Camões in Águeda, with an umbrella canopy.
Umbrella roof in a street.
For dinner, the group is suddenly hungry for MacDonalds, of all things. Though, the closest one is a little bit too far away. We instead decide upon going back to the albergue and order some take-away from there, but we have to order before six o'clock. On the way, we all vanish into a supermarket, going a little bit shopping crazy. I am the last to leave, getting delayed by an alarm going off, prompting me to show that I have not stolen anything. Fortunately, Guus has been so kind to wait for me. I make it just in time back to order. It was not a bad idea to order take-away too, the food was quite good and more social too, eating together with the others at the albergue.
Balloons in a street in Águeda.
The street with balloons as roof.
Not altogether able to leave the street art behind, I have to go down again. Curious to what it looks like when it is dark. It is a different atmosphere walking in the streets when it is quiet, dark and less people around. I really admire what they have done here in Águeda, the urban art is certainly adding another dimension to the town. I find Ciaran still up when I return, the others has gone to bed.
A staircase as a river with people on inflatable boats.
A day of three parts, first a quiet and nice walk through woods and interesting villages, then a less interesting walk to Águeda, and last a delightfully evening in a creative place.
Rua Luís de Camões in the evening.
Dark clad figures watching over a lone bench.
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