Camino Portugués // day 5 // Golegã - Tomar

Camino Portugués, day 5.
Distance: 30.5km (159.3km), time spent: 9:19.
Weather: No changes, heat still going strong.

There is no secret that today is an anticipated day on the Camino, given that this is the day when I will walk to the templar city of Tomar. Rumours exceeds the city. I am also glad for the promise of a walk through a forest today, welcoming the shade that it will offer. We eat a simple breakfast in our nice albergue before making the usual start in the dark before dawn.

Fields outside Golegã in the morning.

Outside Golegã, in the pale purple light of the dawn, we witness that the nature can be cruel too. On the fields next to us a young fole is being chased around by a pack of dogs. All the other horses seems unaffected by the ruckus and clamour of the barking dogs. No one is interesting in helping out the poor fole, endlessly chased around and hopelessly trying to get away from the dogs. No farmer in sight either. The sounds are reverbating across the otherwise quiet fields. Soon the disquieting noise makes way for another nice sunrise, painting the fields in an unreal colour.

Sunrise outside Golegã.

Dilapidated farm buildings of Quinta de Cardiga.

I feel a trickle of a shiver across my skin when we come to Quinta de Cardiga. Once a noble mansion and farm that is now a derelict remnant of a stately past. There is another kind of quiet residing here. I look up at the front of the mansion with its tiles, vines, idols and ornaments and wonder how it looks like on the inside. We stay here for a while, taking in the atmosphere and cannot decide upon whether we are being watched by unseen eyes or not. I also wonder how it must have been here in its glory days, when people were walking about or working here, voices filled the air and the place stirred with life. Now it is silent here.

Tiles on the wall of Quinta de Cardiga.

Quinta de Cardiga.

With these small pieces of history, the Camino becomes more interesting. We pass through another less noticeable village (Atalaia) before the Camino heads into the first eucalyptus forest on the walk. It is a welcoming sight offering shade from the relentless sun. The path is undulating, and the surface alternates between being firm to soft, as some sections appear to be torn and harrowed up by forestry machines. When the ground is soft and steep, we do not make good progress as the going is slow, but it is a pleasant walk anyway.

Sculpture in Atalaia.

Faded mural.

Medieval sounds are reaching our ears at the end of the forest. In Asseiceira, we arrive just in the middle of the preparations for a medieval festival. The other couple at the albuerge in Golegã was going here today, so they are lucky. We are however here too early to take part in the festival. Small booths made up to look like old stores from the middle ages are lined up all along the main street of the village. Garlands and pennants are hanging between the houses, and there is even a wooden medieval gate 'blocking' our way. Here our lunch comes with entertainment, as the villagers are busy trying to capture the pigs and goats from a yard below. There is a lot of animals noises, water in the air and shouting, and escaping pigs and goats. It looks chaotic, almost medieval.

Tile decoration inside the Igreja Matriz in Atalaia.

In the eukalyptus forest after Atalaia.

The second half of the walk to Tomar is less interesting, with the Camino again returning to go next to busy roads for a while. There are some exceptions, but mostly we trudge on through less interesting scenery and surroundings.

Ciaran on the inside of a 'medieval gate' in Asseiceira.

Bench and tiled wall of Capela de São Lourenço.

With the heat of the days, water becomes vital. As we get closer to Tomar our mouths gets drier and drier, both Ciaran and I are out of water. At the same time, we experience that every café that we get to are closed and cafés that we are supposed to walk by does not appear to exist. Upon entering Tomar, we drop down at the first café we get to, feeling like having sand in our mouths. I recall my arrival in Finike when I hiked the Lycian Way and my drinking bonanza then. This makes for a good repeat of that time.

Praça da Republica with the Igreja de São João Baptista in Tomar.

The main church of the Convento de Cristo in Tomar.

When my thirst is quenched, I am ready for Tomar. Walking through the narrow and atmospheric streets of the old town, I am at once aware of the history that lives in and surrounds the old houses of the city. Tomar was founded in 1160 as the headquarters of the Order of the Knights Templars. The Knights Templar Castle and stronghold that is now the Convento do Cristo watches over Tomar from above. The Camino goes straight through the heart of the city, Praça da Republica. A wonderful square dominated by the town hall and the Igreja de São João Baptista, with views of the Knights Templar Castle above. I get a bed for me and Ciaran in Hostel 2300 Thomar, a great looking hostel centrally located. We spent too much time getting here, as I had hoped to be here earlier. There is much to see here, and even spending an extra day here is far from a waste of time.

The Manueline entrance to the convent church of Convento de Cristo.

The inside of the round church or charola of the Convento de Cristo.

The history of the Order of the Knights Templars are truly fascinating, although I will not go into detail about that here, but I shall not hide the fact that I am literally drawn towards the castle on top of the city. Free of my backpack, the short climb up to the castle is easy. It is also easy to say that I feel kind of awestruck of the place. You know that you are in a place that is full of history when it will take a long time to see all there is to see. If you are a person who is concerned with details, you could spend an eternity here. I have too little time. This is also a place you need to see for yourself, as any description of it probably will not do it justice, it is simply put amazing.

The famous chapterhouse window, made by Diogo de Arruda in 1510-1513.

Fountain inside one of the cloister gardens.

The first thing that strikes me when I walk through the gates is the impressive main church with its Manueline entrance and gothic appearance. It is even more impressive on the inside. Modelled after similar structures in Jerusalem (the Mosque of Omar and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre), the round church (or charola) is breathtaking. After having walking through the old cloisters, with its gothic and Manueline architecture, looked at the famous chapterhouse window from the 15th century, I reenter the castle yard outside. From the castle walls there are good views over Tomar.

Convento de Cristo, Tomar.

View of Tomar from the Knights Templar Castle.

Astounded, I return to the hostel and together with Ciaran goes out for dinner. We start by going for a walk in the town. When we walk next to the Rio Nabão, the sun is on its way down. It is a beautiful town and the now purple sky makes it even more beautiful. Given the location, we probably should have something historical to eat, but we feel hungry for a pizza and find a great spot at the atmospheric O Siciliana. The food is spot on.

Tomar.

Not wanting to finish our time in Tomar yet, as we leave tomorrow, we find a café at the Praça da Republica for a night cap. Kids are still out playing football. Over us, the Knights Templar Castle is lit up by lights. Although the walk today had its lesser interesting parts, today was a great day and Tomar has to take the blame for that.

Praça da Republica in the evening.

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