Temples: #87-88 (Nagaoji, Ōkuboji).
Distance: 34.8km (1241.8km), time spent: 11:15.
Weather: Marvellous.
When I leave in the morning after breakfast, I get a big hug from the landlady at my accommodation, as well as a bag with osettai containing chocolate, a vitamin drink and candy. That was a lovely start to the day. Being just two days away from returning back to Ryōzenji, including this day, I had spent some time yesterday evening to look at the various options for the return trip so to say. And where to stay this night. It appear that most of the pilgrims returns to temple #1 on the route leading to temple #3, Konsenji. Many also go by temple #10, Kirihataji. Both options meant that I would walk for a while on the same path that I already have. It would of course be wonderful to walk on and see the paths I trod on for so many days ago again, as well as the temples, but I have decided upon the option leading straight to Ryōzenji.
Shinto shrine at Nagaoji.
I do not have many steps to walk to get to my first appointment of the day. Steppipng out of the door, I cross the street and bow once, then I walk underneath the templegate of Nagaoji (#87), Long Tail Temple. The templegrounds of this temple are quite big and open, which appear to be used as a parking lot more or less, with the halls on one side and the gate, belltower and purification basin on the other. I am a little bit reluctant to leave, holding on to the experience of being at a temple as long as I can, this being the penultimate temple.
Nagaoji.
Walking out of Nagao, my eyes are solidly fixated towards the mountains, trying to see if I can pinpoint which of the mountains that I will climb over today that is Nyotaisan. I had been walking peacefully for some time when I see the Maeyama Ohenro Kōryū Salon, which is a Shikoku pilgrimage community center, meeting Osata-san as I enter. This would be the last time I met him. Speaking of which, meeting Naomi at Yashimaji yesterday would also be the last time that I saw her. At the salon I get some tea and biscuits. I also get a certificate of completion, being number 573 that has completed the pilgrimage this year, probably just counting the foreigners. The actual number is probably bigger, as I assume not every one visits this salon. It is known that the number of available accommodation along the pilgrimage trail is dwindling, as the owners are getting old and few new accommodations are opened. New ones do open, but it is not that often. At the pilgrimage centre, I get interviewed by two women who is trying to open a place for pilgrims like the albergues on the Camino in Spain, with dormitories instead of the usual minshuku or ryokan rooms.
A face in a treetrunk, on the way from Nagaoji.
Another henro here tells me that the original trail is going due south from here towards bangai temple #20 (Ōtakiji), also marked as the old henro trail on the map. He will walk that way, I will stick with the trail marked as the popular route in the guidebook. The third option goes mostly on a road up towards Nyotaisan. Upon crossing a small bridge after the Maeyama Ohenro Kōryū Salon, I am being confronted by a greenish snake blocking my way. I shout out "'thou shalt not pass, you flame of udon", but unlike Gandalf I cannot strike my staff upon the bridge.
Maeyama dam, the Maeyama Ohenro Kōryū Salon on the other side of the lake.
After Kurusu Jinja the walk becomes truly outstanding, where I have trouble to properly describe the wonder of this walk, as countless sunrays are filtered through the trees when I go underneath them. The play of light is following me all the way as I walk upwards towards the top of the mountain, on good paths going past small creeks glittering in the reflected sunrays. I could not have asked for better weather, soaking up the colours and light around me. I wish the walk would never end.
Sunrays gets filtered through the trees next to a creek on the popular route to Nyotaisan.
Following the sunrays through the trees, the stairs in the ground, the old and new waymarks, the small descents and longer ascents, I make my way up towards the last of major mountains on the pilgrimage. The path actually goes down a bit to where it joins the small road that the third option goes on, with the two options now following the same route from here on. At the final approach to the summit, the path gets steeper. Much steeper. And that holds promises, at least to me, there is something true to 'no pain, no gain'. I pass by a kongōzue left behind next to the steep path. Was it purposefully left behind there, as a token of getting close to the final obstacle before getting to the last temple? Or was it just being in the way? Without getting to ask the bearer of the staff, I will never know the answer.
A walk of beauty.
The summit of Nyotaisan lies at 774m and has a small shrine and a pavilion with some benches at its top. Stepping out on some cliffs next to the small shrine, Nyotaisan presents me with some great views. In the distance, I can see Tokushima. There is a strange realization in looking at the place where I started my adventure from for so many days ago.
The path to Nyotaisan.
Before starting on the descent, I take a deep breath, there is only a steep downhill climb before I am at the ultimate temple, located somewhere below me. Going down I see the ever steeper path in front of me and occasional views of the adjacent mountains through windows in the forest. I descend upon the 88th temple, Ōkuboji (Large Hollow Temple), from above, able to hear the sounds coming from the lively temple some time before I arrive. It is such a beautiful temple (they all are in a way), located underneath a mountain (Nyotaisan) like Yakuriji. Ōkuboji is busy with people, some of them stealing a glance at the foreign henro with a beard suddenly appearing in the midst of the temple, coming out of the woods.
View from the top of Nyotaisan.
For a fee, you can leave behind your staff here, symbolizing the fullfilment of your pilgrimage and that the staff has completed its role. There is a huge glass cabinet here containing numerous staffs. I feel that I should carry my kongōzue also to my kechigan temple, so I will keep it. The kechigan (end of one's pilgrimage) temple is said to be the last temple of your circuit (like Ōkuboji for me), but some argue that the kechigan is the temple you return back to in order to close the circle (like Ryōzenji). There is to be a ceremony of some sort here later, probably broadcasted too, and I get interviewed by a reporter. He says that the interview will appear in the ceremony, but unfortunately I do not have the time to witness it.
At Ōkuboji you can leave your kongōzue behind, as it is said that the staff has completed its role.
Jizō-statues at Ōkuboji.
The kouyou (autumn colors) is in its early bloom and many of the visitors appear to be here for that reason. The kouyou is a good reason to start the pilgrimage even later than did. Stepping out of the templegate, after the somewhat proud moment of receiving the 88th stamp and calligraphy in my book, is a contemplative moment. Only the traditional return to the first temple remains.
Ōkuboji.
Seeing Ōkuboji within its autumn foliage disappear behind me, Nyotaisan still visible, I head down onto a wooden path. And it is like I have entered a forgotten world again. The path takes me past some small farmsteads at the start, then turns into the forest, next to a large creek that I later cross over on stones with water softly flowing over them. Abandoned houses lies next to the path, a wreck of a small truck has bushes growing in its cargo. Reemerging on the road is to be in a remote place on the island. At around three o'clock I arrive at the junction where one path goes down to Kirihataji on a road. I cross over the Hacchozaka slope on a slightly steep path that is warmed by the evening sun.
The templegate of Ōkuboji.
Just me and another henro about when I reach Shiritori-onsen, possibly a popular place to stay for the last night. He will stay there, saying goodbye as we part, then I am utterly alone. My sole reason for not staying at the onsen, surely tempting, was that I wanted to pass through the Mizushi Sanzan. An area of three small mountains (Nachisan, Hongūsan, Toramaruyama). The light is departing as I walk up to the Hoshigoetōge pass. Small, remote farms and hamlets appear sparsely next to the road. At Ōuchi dam I find a nice spot for camping, but I just take a short break there to eat. From here on it gets a little bit harder, as dusk arrives and quickly changes to evening. In the dark, I go a wrong way at a point, at least I believe I do, only to find the path again later on.
In a forgotten world after Ōkuboji.
When I finally stumble into my accommodation for the night, the Royal Hotel in Sanbonmatsu, I am greatly tired. It has been a long day, but a great one as that. Out of season, so quiet at the hotel. Walking through Sanbonmatsu, I passed by what looked like a nice place, Gowariyasu, so that is where I head for dinner. Entering the izakaya, I become the centre of everyones attention. A foreigner may not be the usual guest here. I just indulge myself in what looks good at the joint, eating a large bowl of ramen and more, while everyone is buying me beers. The food is delicious. Some of the local guests speaks English too. Apparently Sanbonmatsu is known for its glove-factories and I speak to a worker at one of the factories and to his boss (Handson grip/). I am having a wonderful evening, but I do get a little bit tipsy of all the beers I get. Especially when the boss takes me to a local bar afterwards for another beer. I am grateful for how the last night of my pilgrimage ended.
A solitary walk through Mizushi Sanzan.
Back at the hotel, still rather tipsy, I try to book a place for the next two nights in Tokushima. Even with the help from the friendly staff at the hotel, it is difficult to find a place. There is a national holiday or something. Eventually I get a room at a little more expensive place than usual, but it is fine. Maybe I have earned a little bit of indulgence and luxury now.
Evening on my way to Sanbonmatsu.
Kagawa has been something of a revelation to me, or nirvana (nehan), the days here has been great. Going to bed, I think of two things. That I am just one day from closing the circle and all the people I have met on my walk, my list of people I would like to say a big thank you to has grown long.
Dinner at Gowariyasu in Sanbonmatsu with great local guests.
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