Distance: 27.8km (374.7km), time spent: 7:51.
Weather: Some morning mist, but mostly sunny.
Going comfortable when it comes to accommodation also means getting a comfortable breakfast. It is a big and good breakfast, cannot say that I am sorry for having it. I also slept comfortably during the night, not sorry for that either. Still, I do feel a little bit sorry for not trying to find the bombeiros yesterday, too late now anyway. Looking back at yesterdays evening, I find it a little bit strange, but nice.
Igreja Matriz, Oliveira de Azeméis, in the morning.
Although it is a blue sky and sunny when I walk through the streets of Oliveira de Azeméis in the morning, I soon spot the morning mist lying low in the valley next to the town. Descending, the Camino takes me past a field where wisps of clouds drifts through the trees behind. Walking alone here in the morning gives me the time to think a little bit about the company of others. I ponder why I almost never see most of the other pilgrims I meet on this Camino again, having now also left Ciaran, Alex, Chiara and Guus behind. Although, I do expect to meet them again at least.
Morning mist outside Oliveira de Azeméis.
This filtered sunlight through the trees is just magical.
Sometimes on a pilgrimage, walk or a hike there is a constellation of light and scenery that creates some magic moments. And the unexpected ones are usually also the best ones. A little after Oliveira de Azeméis the Camino goes through a short woodland section, on the way down to the old Ponte do Salgueiro. While I walk between the trees, the morning mist has begun to seep through the leaves and branches of the trees. At the same time, the sun positions itself straight at my back. Looking back is magical. The sunrays are filtered through the mist, with the bright light of the sun in the middle, as if the light is exploding through the forest. The bridge, Ponte do Salgueiro, is from the 14th century and crosses the river Ul.
Walkers in the light, near Ponte do Salgueiro.
Ponte do Salgueiro.
The light is still resonating in my eyes when I go the remaining kilometres into São João da Madeira, the current shoe capital of Portugal. There are no pilgrim albergues here in this town, but it is still a usual stopover for pilgrims on their way to Porto and Santiago. I sit down for my mandatory café com leite at a café at the Praca Luis Ribeiro in the centre of the town. Some children are chasing a wounded pigeon around the square and I look around wondering why the parents (or others) are not stopping them doing it, I am close to interfering myself when a father is taking the children away. Though, I do not believe it was for the pigeons sake.
Igreja Matriz in São João da Madeira (how many churches in Portugal are named Igreja Matriz?).
Although São João da Madeira now produces shoes, it was earlier more famous for producing hats. On the way out of the town, I pass by the Museu da Chapelaria and decides to pay it a visit. It is quite interesting to see all the machinery that is used to actually make a hat, at least in the old times. Also in the museum are two other pilgrims, Joan and Paige frm the United States, I noticed their backpacks at the reception. They are on a guided tour, while I chose to go by myself. Unarguably a better way. I get to join them for the last part of their tour. Of course, when the guide ask them what kind of animals was used to make the various hats displayed at the end, I am unable to answer. On display are some incredibly hats. Joan and Paige are going to the same place as I head for, Grijó. Do not walk past the museum lightly, it is worth a visit.
Street art in São João da Madeira.
From the Museu da Chapelaria in São João da Madeira.
From São João da Madeira the Camino is at first a pleasant walk through what seems like a continuous village, where the white and blue tiled Igreja de Arrifana is what I find most admiring. However, after a few kilometres, I find myself walking next to a busy road, breaking the idyll of the early morning. One of the downsides of walking the Camino Portugués from Lisboa are exactly these busy roads that you walk next to, I feel that there are a little bit too many of them. I cannot remember there to be just as many busy roads on the Camino Francés. On the other hand, that Camino has become a lot busy with people in the later years.
One of the quirky hats in the Museu da Chapelaria.
I need lunch and I get it at a restaurant I feel totally out of place at. It appear quite fashionable, so when I sit down and eat nothing but a plain tosta mixta and patatas bravas, I feel kind of uncomfortable in my sweat clothes. A young waiter is however taking some time talking a little bit with me, which eases my discomfort.
Hat street art.
In the old days it was far different things that made the pilgrimage hard, but nowadays I feel it is the walk next to the busy roads that makes the pilgrimage hard. I finally can leave the busy road, which makes for a more relaxing walk, but I do not get more excited about what I see though. I meet a couple that met on the Camino Francés, Peter and Rita. They had seen me at the hotel in Oliveira de Azeméis, so I was not the only pilgrim staying there after all.
Igreja de Arrifana.
A small shrine at the Igreja de Arrifana.
In Grijó, the door to Albergue de Peregrinos S. Salvador is open, but there are no hospitaleros there. In the end, I do as the others before has done, take a bed, go for a shower and then wash my clothes. In a café nearby, I meet Jaehee from South Korea. She walked the Camino Francés a couple of years back and wrote a book about her experience. Also in the albergue is an old Japanese couple, who has done the Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage several times. They give me an amulet from the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage (which is a dual pilgrimage with the Camino de Santiago). Joan and Paige eventually appears too. There are also two women from Finland here, quite the diversity.
S. da Arrifana.
I go for a visit to the Mosteiro de Grijó, originally built in the 12th century and then reconstructed in the 16th century, but only the church is open for visit now. Along with the two Finnish women, I try to find a restaurant nearby, but we give up. I had first said yes to go and eat dinner together with Peter and Rita, but then I change my mind. The hospitalero told us that a local family next door could provide dinner for those who wanted, and when I at first declined, I soon came to better thoughts. It would probably be a nice experience.
Roundabout shrine, quite strange.
And it is. Eating at the local family are Joan, Paige, Jaehee, the two Fins and me. We get served bacalao. The language around the table is wonderful, as most of us do not speak Portuguese and they do not speak English. Not stopping having a great time and mood around the table. I had bought with me beer for the dinner, but there was no need, we got red wine too. It was a great dinner together with great company.
Albergue de Peregrinos S. Salvador in Grijó.
Mosteiro de Grijó entrance.
Thankfully the evening was great, as I was not truly satisfied with the walk of today. Of course, with the exception of the morning magic out of Oliveira de Azeméis, that was wonderful. These days happen. Tomorrow Porto awaits me, I am looking forward to it.
Dinner at a local family in Grijó, from left Jaehee, the Finnish women, me, Joan and Paige.
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