Camino Portugués // day 13 // Grijó - Porto

Camino Portugués, day 13.
Distance: 20.0km (394.7km), time spent: 5:58.
Weather: A variation of misty, sunny and overcast.

Today was one of those days on a Camino where I woke up and found that my clothes was not completely dry after having washed them the day before. I start the day by trying to visit the monastery for a second time. This time, it is open, but I have to be quick as there is a mass about to start. I even get a stamp from the monastery before I have to go. It is yet another morning with overcast weather, a sign that I am approaching the coast maybe.

The cloister garden of the Mosteiro de Grijó.

Inside the church of the Mosteiro de Grijó.

I eat breakfast together with Joan and Paige in a local bar. I feel you can say something about something when you see the locals having a beer already at this time of the day. Joan has decided to take a taxi to Porto, as she has felt some pain and thinks her body needs a little rest, so Paige and I walk together towards Porto. We do not have to walk long before I understand that Paige really likes cats and the Portuguese tiles.

Mosteiro de Grijó on tiles.

Another set of tiles with patterns.

Usually the walk into any big city on a Camino is less exciting, and so it is with Porto too, I had been warned that the walk would not be that interesting today. Not all of that is true, for the walk over the Serra de Negrelos is beautiful. Here, the Camino follows an ancient Roman path through a scenic forest, with old stone walls alongside the path and trees sometimes hanging over it. All in a lovely light, for the sun decided to appear just as we began the walk into the woods. What better time to arrive? It had been nothing but a grey and sad color on the sky before Serra de Negrelos.

Igreja de Perosinho.

A flower loving cat.

We find a café in Rechousa, with the weather changing again. When we walked into the café it was sunny outside, when we walk out it has become grey and sad again. The clouds are even sadder than before, and lower on the sky too. For the remaining walk to Porto it may not mean much, but I would like to arrive to see the city under a blue sky. I have no idea if the clouds are hiding something from our eyes, if they are making the walk less or more exciting.

Camino waymarker, scallopp cobblestones.

The ancient Roman path leading up into the Serra de Negrelos.

Before we will arrive at the heart of Porto next to the Douro river, we will have to go a long walk through the suburbs of Porto. There is no lack of motivation though, we know what is at the end of the line. We are getting a little bit distracted by the numerous tiles we pass by, I share Paige's fascination of them, and by the sometimes lacking waymarks causing us to take wrong turns several times. Seeing Porto coming to view for the first time is a little bit special, knowing that I have now finished the first part of the Camino Portugués.

Serra de Negrelos.

Escola de Pinheiro Memorial Arch outside Porto.

Although the hope was a clear blue sky when arriving, I must confess that it does not matter. We go up to the viewpoint next to the Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar, a national monument and UNESCO world heritage site. The view over Porto is magnificent, and somehow the clouds are playing a wonderful part in it too. Though, I do know why. It is about to lift, there is a blue hue slowly spreading across the sky as the layers of clouds appear to become thinner. Porto looks like a beautiful city divided by the Douro river. The Ponte D Luís I bridge is nothing but impressive and in the distance I can see another impressive bridge too, Ponte da Arrábida. So I made it to Porto after thirteen days of walking. It does feel kind of stranger after setting out from Lisboa.

Approaching Porto in the fog, a lost gate bids us welcome.

A flower and vine clad valley beneath the Camino.

As we walk over the bridge, the clouds are dispersing and blue sky is appearing. Paige and I go to the cathedral, Sé do Porto, from there our ways separate. At least for a very short while. She has been a pleasant walking companion. While she and Joan are staying at the Bluesocks hostel, I had not booked any place to stay. In the end, I end up at the same place, after trying to get a place to stay at some other places first. One place had a bed for me, but I had to change room if I wanted to stay for two nights. A check at another place yields nothing, so I return to the first place telling them I take the bed(s). Have to wait to 15 o'clock to check in, so I go for a cold cerveja while I wait. When I am back at the place at 15 o'clock, they tell me that there are no beds available. I feel annoyed wasting time on this. Do not ask why I did not just go straight to the Bluesocks hostel, I ask that myself. It is a nice hostel.

Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar.

Porto.

Then it is time to explore Porto, or Portus Cale as it was known to the Romans. I have good time, with two days at my disposal, so I take it slow. I meet Joan and Paige who are at the point of being ecstatic about their lunch. We all are eager for icecream, but where to get it? Then I spot a Camino waymarker, and it points right towards a signboard advertising for icecream. We pilgrims truly need our yellow arrows to find what we need. Afterwards, Joan and Paige has some errands to do, so I continue on alone. We agree to meet up later for dinner.

Porto with the Torre dos Clérigos (and a seagull).

Porto waterfront houses.

There is a little bit of a system shock getting to Porto after all those days on a very quiet Camino. The city is bustling with people, a lot of tourists. And as I am, they converge on the riverfront, which is wonderful. I love the narrow, colorful and old buildings stacked next to each other there. As clouds again reappear on the sky from the south, I make my way back up to the cathedral once more. Outside, a company of some sort is dancing. I make my way through the tiny and narrow streets, admiring the tiles and various street art that I find. By chance visiting the Mosteiro de São Bento da Vitória. I end my tour walking past the towering Torre dos Clérigos.

Returning clouds over the city.

Porto seen from a mirador near the Mosteiro de São Bento da Vitória.

Paige is a vegetarian, and that has proven to be a little bit of a problem when doing the Camino Portugués. However, she had got a tip of a great vegan place here in Porto, Da Terra, so we go there for dinner. She is super happy, and I am happy for it. Normally, I do like to have some meat for my meal, but the food does taste good. And Joan and Paige are a great company too.

Decoration inside Mosteiro de São Bento da Vitória.

Ornamented door and its reflection in Mosteiro de São Bento da Vitória.

After I arrived in Porto, I have seen more pilgrims than I saw in total on the whole way from Lisboa, but they have not been walking from Lisboa. Porto is a lot more popular starting point than Lisboa. However, the majority of pilgrims doing the Camino Portugués are starting from Tui. So, there will be a large crowd on the last section to Santiago.

Modern and old world meet, Torre dos Clérigos.

The evening gets by. The light from the viewpoint and Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar are reflecting on the water of the Douro river. Lots of life and people next to the waterfront. Looking across the river, I think it is about 400k since I left Lisboa.

Porto and the river Douro in the evening.

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Camino Portugués // day 12 // Oliveira de Azeméis - Grijó

Camino Portugués, day 12.
Distance: 27.8km (374.7km), time spent: 7:51.
Weather: Some morning mist, but mostly sunny.

Going comfortable when it comes to accommodation also means getting a comfortable breakfast. It is a big and good breakfast, cannot say that I am sorry for having it. I also slept comfortably during the night, not sorry for that either. Still, I do feel a little bit sorry for not trying to find the bombeiros yesterday, too late now anyway. Looking back at yesterdays evening, I find it a little bit strange, but nice.

Igreja Matriz, Oliveira de Azeméis, in the morning.

Although it is a blue sky and sunny when I walk through the streets of Oliveira de Azeméis in the morning, I soon spot the morning mist lying low in the valley next to the town. Descending, the Camino takes me past a field where wisps of clouds drifts through the trees behind. Walking alone here in the morning gives me the time to think a little bit about the company of others. I ponder why I almost never see most of the other pilgrims I meet on this Camino again, having now also left Ciaran, Alex, Chiara and Guus behind. Although, I do expect to meet them again at least.

Morning mist outside Oliveira de Azeméis.

This filtered sunlight through the trees is just magical.

Sometimes on a pilgrimage, walk or a hike there is a constellation of light and scenery that creates some magic moments. And the unexpected ones are usually also the best ones. A little after Oliveira de Azeméis the Camino goes through a short woodland section, on the way down to the old Ponte do Salgueiro. While I walk between the trees, the morning mist has begun to seep through the leaves and branches of the trees. At the same time, the sun positions itself straight at my back. Looking back is magical. The sunrays are filtered through the mist, with the bright light of the sun in the middle, as if the light is exploding through the forest. The bridge, Ponte do Salgueiro, is from the 14th century and crosses the river Ul.

Walkers in the light, near Ponte do Salgueiro.

Ponte do Salgueiro.

The light is still resonating in my eyes when I go the remaining kilometres into São João da Madeira, the current shoe capital of Portugal. There are no pilgrim albergues here in this town, but it is still a usual stopover for pilgrims on their way to Porto and Santiago. I sit down for my mandatory café com leite at a café at the Praca Luis Ribeiro in the centre of the town. Some children are chasing a wounded pigeon around the square and I look around wondering why the parents (or others) are not stopping them doing it, I am close to interfering myself when a father is taking the children away. Though, I do not believe it was for the pigeons sake.

Igreja Matriz in São João da Madeira (how many churches in Portugal are named Igreja Matriz?).

Although São João da Madeira now produces shoes, it was earlier more famous for producing hats. On the way out of the town, I pass by the Museu da Chapelaria and decides to pay it a visit. It is quite interesting to see all the machinery that is used to actually make a hat, at least in the old times. Also in the museum are two other pilgrims, Joan and Paige frm the United States, I noticed their backpacks at the reception. They are on a guided tour, while I chose to go by myself. Unarguably a better way. I get to join them for the last part of their tour. Of course, when the guide ask them what kind of animals was used to make the various hats displayed at the end, I am unable to answer. On display are some incredibly hats. Joan and Paige are going to the same place as I head for, Grijó. Do not walk past the museum lightly, it is worth a visit.

Street art in São João da Madeira.

From the Museu da Chapelaria in São João da Madeira.

From São João da Madeira the Camino is at first a pleasant walk through what seems like a continuous village, where the white and blue tiled Igreja de Arrifana is what I find most admiring. However, after a few kilometres, I find myself walking next to a busy road, breaking the idyll of the early morning. One of the downsides of walking the Camino Portugués from Lisboa are exactly these busy roads that you walk next to, I feel that there are a little bit too many of them. I cannot remember there to be just as many busy roads on the Camino Francés. On the other hand, that Camino has become a lot busy with people in the later years.

One of the quirky hats in the Museu da Chapelaria.

I need lunch and I get it at a restaurant I feel totally out of place at. It appear quite fashionable, so when I sit down and eat nothing but a plain tosta mixta and patatas bravas, I feel kind of uncomfortable in my sweat clothes. A young waiter is however taking some time talking a little bit with me, which eases my discomfort.

Hat street art.

In the old days it was far different things that made the pilgrimage hard, but nowadays I feel it is the walk next to the busy roads that makes the pilgrimage hard. I finally can leave the busy road, which makes for a more relaxing walk, but I do not get more excited about what I see though. I meet a couple that met on the Camino Francés, Peter and Rita. They had seen me at the hotel in Oliveira de Azeméis, so I was not the only pilgrim staying there after all.

Igreja de Arrifana.

A small shrine at the Igreja de Arrifana.

In Grijó, the door to Albergue de Peregrinos S. Salvador is open, but there are no hospitaleros there. In the end, I do as the others before has done, take a bed, go for a shower and then wash my clothes. In a café nearby, I meet Jaehee from South Korea. She walked the Camino Francés a couple of years back and wrote a book about her experience. Also in the albergue is an old Japanese couple, who has done the Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage several times. They give me an amulet from the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage (which is a dual pilgrimage with the Camino de Santiago). Joan and Paige eventually appears too. There are also two women from Finland here, quite the diversity.

S. da Arrifana.

I go for a visit to the Mosteiro de Grijó, originally built in the 12th century and then reconstructed in the 16th century, but only the church is open for visit now. Along with the two Finnish women, I try to find a restaurant nearby, but we give up. I had first said yes to go and eat dinner together with Peter and Rita, but then I change my mind. The hospitalero told us that a local family next door could provide dinner for those who wanted, and when I at first declined, I soon came to better thoughts. It would probably be a nice experience.

Roundabout shrine, quite strange.

And it is. Eating at the local family are Joan, Paige, Jaehee, the two Fins and me. We get served bacalao. The language around the table is wonderful, as most of us do not speak Portuguese and they do not speak English. Not stopping having a great time and mood around the table. I had bought with me beer for the dinner, but there was no need, we got red wine too. It was a great dinner together with great company.

Albergue de Peregrinos S. Salvador in Grijó.

Mosteiro de Grijó entrance.

Thankfully the evening was great, as I was not truly satisfied with the walk of today. Of course, with the exception of the morning magic out of Oliveira de Azeméis, that was wonderful. These days happen. Tomorrow Porto awaits me, I am looking forward to it.

Dinner at a local family in Grijó, from left Jaehee, the Finnish women, me, Joan and Paige.

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Camino Portugués // day 11 // Águeda - Oliveira de Azeméis

Camino Portugués, day 11.
Distance: 35.9km (346.9km), time spent: 10:52.
Weather: Heavy fog and a light drizzle, then sunny.

With all the days so far on the Camino being warm and sunny, with degrees almost always up in the higher thirties, the weather outside this morning comes as a surprise. Outside there is a dense fog surrounding the albergue and area around. Ciaran is still asleep when I leave, Alex and Chiara has already left, at what time I do not know. Before I went, I had a small breakfast that I bought with me from the supermarket yesterday.

Dark and misty when leaving Águeda in the morning.

To return to the Camino, I have to backtrack a little. The hostess at Albergue Santo António had recommended me to follow the N1 road instead, but I am glad that I did not to listen to her. I had a mysterious and quiet walk through the heavy fog, with a light drizzle in the air. Every sound gets so muffled when there is fog, close things seems so far away. Places and things come and go. Even the industrial area I go past seems to fade into the mist. Crossing the N1, I find a small café, and time for my morning café com leite. Afterwards, I meet Guus who had followed the N1. She had not enjoyed the walk next to the road, feeling unsafe as cars passed by her not knowng if they would see her in the dark and fog.

Mourisca do Vouga, once a stately mansion called a Casa Brasileiro.

We pass into Mourisca do Vouga. The fog makes justice to this village. I doubt you could find a more proper setting for the abandonded, lost and old stately mansions that you walk past here. As if the fog has drawn out all the life of the buildings. These mansions are Casas Brasileiras built in the 19-20th century by returning emigrants. The other buildings in the village is just as worn and empty like, giving it a feeling of being a ghost town. In some places only the facade is still standing, retaken by vegetation. At the end of the village, a ghostly sun is barely visible through the clouds.

Lost mansion in Mourisca do Vouga.

On the descent towards Ponte Velha de Marnel, I spot a pilgrim coming from a direction not on the Camino. Believing her to have gone the wrong way, I stop and wait, pointing towards the path as she comes closer. As she comes closer, she smiles and waves back at me, then pointing towards where I came from. She has not gone the wrong way, and is also going in the opposite direction. I feel foolish.

A ghostly sun.

Ponte Velha de Marnel was something I had looked forward to today, an old bridge with five arches dating from the 16th century. With the clouds barely leaving the ground, the place is surrounded by a mysterious atmosphere. I love it, even though I had hoped to be here on a clear and sunny day. Only faint outlines of the white church at the top of the hill behind is visible. There is two small islets out in the river (Marnel), that is connected with small wooden bridges. On the islets, there is a small recreational area with benches, and views of the five-arched bridge. I spend some time at the area, giving the haze some time to lift a little, with the white church and some blue sky becoming visible at the back. Up at the white church, I believe I see Ciaran walking through the mist on top of the Ponte Velha de Marnel.

Recreational park with the four of the five arches of the Ponte Velha de Marnel visible.

From the old bridge the Camino changes to go on a new bridge, which is so long that I cannot see the other end through the clouds. It just disappears into grey nothingness, with cars and bikes suddenly appearing out of it. A small village lies underneath the bridge and vanishes as I move forward, passing over the Rio Vouga on the way. Despite walking clouds to the traffic, although with a barrier between, it was a cool walk across the bridge.

Ponte Velha de Marnel.

Then, on the way to Lameiro and Serém, the clouds disperses and vanish. A blue sky and a warm sun shines in my face. I stop for a coffee in Casa Leonel in Serem, meeting two pilgrims from Israel there that I had seen earlier today. On the wall there is a collage with photos of pilgrims, the hostess takes a picture of every pilgrim that visits the café, so I pose for a photo too. Afterwards, the Camino enters another eucalyptus forest, on a broad gravel track this time, which I follow almost all the way to Albergaria-a-Velha.

A long bridge into nothingness.

A village vanishing into the fog as I pass over the bridge.

I go looking around Albergaria-a-Velha at bit, but most of all, I go looking around for a place to eat. There is tiny yellow tram or train going through the small town that I am curious about. The name of the town originates from a request by Dona Teresa, the mother of the first king of Portugal, that an inn should be built here for the pilgrims (and the poor and sick). I eat a tosta mixta in a café and then stumble upon Ciaran.

In Albergaria-a-Velha, notice the small little tram.

A series of quite pleasant forest walks ensues, where some of the eucalyptus trees stands such in rows that I believe them to be planted. We arrive at the statue of Nossa Senhora do Socorro, whereafter I lure myself up into the Parque do Monte da Senhora do Socorro above. I have spotted a tower of some sort, and want to go check it out. I believe it to be a fire watch tower, but maybe it is something else (as it is in a park). I meet a person who tells me that I can climb up into the tower, but of course he is wrong. It is a fire watch tower, and the hatch to it is closed. I could have told myself so.

Eucalyptus.

At Albergaria-a-Nova, Ciaran is stopping for the day at the albergue there. Alex, Chiara and Guus is already there. It looks like a nice place. I, on the other hand, has decided to move on. It is a little bit of a difficult choice, but in some ways it is logical. First, it is too early to stop walking for the day. Second, I want to have an extra day in Porto, but Ciaran has said he will just spend one night there. So by walking a little longer today and tomorrow, I can have my zero day in Porto and meet up with Ciaran again afterwards. I aim to go to Oliveira de Azeméis, some 13k away.

Parque do Monte da Senhora do Socorro.

Having said goodbye to the others, I move on. Some time later, the Camino takes an interesting turn, by going next to some railroad tracks. I wonder if they are operational or not, the path goes dangerously close to the tracks at some point. They look overgrown, so I am sure no train will come rushing past me.

After Albergaria-a-Nova the Camino goes next to some abandoned railroad tracks.

It is all blue and sunny now, so the heat is back. I stop for a cerveja in Pinheiro da Bemposta, who also sport some curious toy dolls at display. When I pass through Bemposta, the Camino has gained a little elevation and from the way I can see the sea in the distance. After all the days walking in the inland, it is nice to see the water. It is a reminder that I need to decide whether to go the central route or the coastal route when I have reached Porto.

Toy dolls resting on a balcony in Pinheiro da Bemposta.

Later, after having done a crossing of a extremely busy road, I walk past a house when I hear a voice inviting me in. I then get offered coffee and some bread from the old lady living in the house. It appear that this kind of thing, resembling the osettai in Japan, is more common here in Portugal than in Spain. I am truly grateful. We talk a little bit, in broken Portuguese, but it gets better when her son comes and can translate. After what has been a great day so far, my mood is now even better.

A shrine in the wall at Bemposta.

Although my mood is great, I still feel the length of the day now. It has gotten warmer and that has taken its price. I walk over the 18th century bridge Ponte do Senhor da Pedra with an attached shrine and prepare for the final few kilometres into Oliveira de Azeméis. I am tired when I arrive in the town. Knowing that pilgrims are allowed to stay at the bombeiros (fire station) here in Portugal, I had hoped to experience that today, but when I feel so tired and unknowingly stands outside the Hotel Dighton, I surrender. Not knowing where the bombeiros actually are located, but believing it to be a little outside the centre, I take my backpack and goes comfortable. I have to wait a little, but get a room with a pilgrim discount.

Ponte do Senhor da Pedra.

After having a shower, I go out to find a place to sit down and rest at. I walked past the perfect place. Close by was a café called Hygge, named after a Norwegian word that there really is not a direct translation for. It is sort of a Norwegian (and Danish) description of when we want to spend some time together or alone, having a quiet, pleasant and cosy time. The owner had found the word in a Norwegian novel. My legs are tired, I sit down for a beer and relax (jeg hygger meg).

Câmara Municipal de Oliveira de Azeméis (town hall).

Going for dinner is another affair, with finding a place difficult. With difficult, I do not mean actually finding a place, but finding a place where there are other people eating too. I believe it is too early, that people here usually go out later when they eat, but I am hungry now. I get to see a little bit of the town though, and in the end I find a place where there are many other people, strangely enough. It looks like a mix between a standard Portuguese café and a fast food joint. Easy food today, I just go for a pizza.

Igreja Matrix in Oliveira de Azeméis.

The rest of the evening, I spend in my hotel room, which I now feel thankful for. I just sit down in the chair in the room and relax, but I am close to falling asleep ever so often, so it does not take long before I go to bed. Quite the wondrous walk today, from the misty walk past abandonded mansions, through the dreamy world of the Marnel bridge, sunny eucalyptus forests, alongside unused railroad tracks and then a walk with a view of the sea.

Café Hygge.

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