Saturday, September 15, 2012

Vizzavona - E Capanelle

Distance: 16km, altitude at start: 920m, altitude at end: 1586m, highest point: 1645m.

The northern part of the GR20 lies behind me, now the southern part awaits me. I leave the hotel, eager to get going after having spent three days in Vizzavona. Walking past the long lost windows of the Grand Hôtel de la Forêt I can hear whispers from the past. A little bit further and I stand before the sign marking the start of the GR20 sud, next stop E Capanelle.

At Vizzavona by the start of the GR20 sud. To the right the end (or the start) the path to the GR20 north.

I cross the road (N193) and it feels more like that this is where the trail to the Bergeries d'E Capanelle really starts, when you leave the civilization again. A road through the forest in the start. Like the ascent up to Monte d'Oro it first gets nice when I leave the tracks above Vizzavona for good and starts to walk on trails only. The forest around here feels like it could be in a fairytale. A sign points the way to Bois Brule, here the plants entwines themselves around the trees while the gnomes hides behind the bushes.

Monte d'Oro reaches up from the wooded hills above Vizzavona.

Fairytale forest above Vizzavona, a sign shows the path to Brule. Corsican gnomes, fairies and trolls lurking in the bush.

Further up the forest gets lighter and sunlight spreads more and more between the trees. Then suddenly two Norwegian flags are walking in front of me on the trail, Lisa and Madeleine are coming from the northern part of Norway and has left the cold north for a warmer climate. The first Norwegians I've met since I said goodbye to Lauritz and Agnes in Corte.

I take a little detour out to a clearing with a great view back towards Monte d'Oro, where the link from Hôtel Monte d'Oro is coming up. It would have been a 360 degrees view from the top of Monte d'Oro now. The trail goes into the forest again. Above the trees, green and rolling hills lies in contrast to the clear blue sky.

A clearing by the path coming up from Hôtel Monte d'Oro, a great view over the mountain that bears the same name as the hotel.

A sunny day on the way to E Capanelle.

The path is going upwards, but it is easy to walk on. The sun is shining through the trees; it's a pleasant walk through the woods up towards Bocca Palmentu. And it doesn't get any worse when I come up to the pass. From here the mountainsides goes downwards and over green valley sides, and in the end down to the sea. Back where I came from lies Vizzavona hidden in the valley, while Monte d'Oro stands just as solid as before. It's a beautiful day and I spend some time together with Lisa and Madeleine at the pass, at 1640m.

From Bocca Palmentu the path goes down and pays a visit to the woods again. A large group of walkers are going in a queue up towards me, coming from the opposite direction. Bergeries d'Alzeta lies peacefully beneath a big birch tree, the doorframes and window sills painted red. It's peaceful on the trail ahead as well, this must be one of the most pleasant and nice forest walks along the GR20.

Bocca Palmentu, 1640m.

At Crête de Cardu, there is a nice place in the shade from a lonely pine tree with a great view in the direction of the sea. I eat the last piece of the good sausage I bought at Haut Asco, it's become a little while since I was there now. Above Valle Longa lies Monte Renosu, which now has taken the place of Monte d'Oro. Clouds are starting to form out by the coast.

Bergeries d'Alzeta. A peaceful place under a big birch tree.

The path going alongside Crête d'Oculu.

Small river creeks are coming down from the mountains, almost empty of water. Another peaceful bergerie is appearing, Scarpacceghje. I'm getting close to the end of today's walk; the trail is suddenly going steeper upwards through the trees. And then I can say hello to civilization again, standing on a road. And another place located next to a ski station.

I still don't feel that I've got complete rid of the cold, so I decide to sleep under a roof this night as well. Me and the two Norwegian girls has gone past each other all the time here to the Gîte d'Ètappe U Fugone. I walk faster than them, but I have a nasty habit of stopping a lot to take pictures. While enjoying a cold Pietra at the terrace outside the auberge I can on one side see the sea, while on the other side I can see the not so nice parts of the ski station.

View towards the sea on my way towards Crête du Cardu and E Capanelle.

There is no one in the PRNC cabin, which lies a little bit to itself outside of the camping area; I could probably get it for myself and for half the usual price. It looks a little bit pitiful though. The sun is disappearing behind Monte Renosu, some clouds drifts slowly over the landscape. I eat dinner at the gîte together with Lisa and Madeleine.

It's said that the northern part of GR20 is more beautiful than the southern part, but if the route between Vizzavona and E Capanelle is descriptive of the southern part of the GR20, then it doesn't stand much behind in terms of beauty. It was a great walk from Vizzavona. However, the stage was less demanding than most of the stages on the northern part. Satisfied, I go to sleep inside the gîte, "don't let the bedbugs bite!"

Crête du Cardu with its lonely pine tree.

<- Monte d'OroPrati ->

No comments:

Post a Comment