For the first time on the GR20 am I eager to get going on an early start. And it's not because of the apparent reason to be the first to arrive at Asinau, but the previous days here has taught me one thing. The clouds are coming in from the sea almost precisely on the hour. At the end of today's walk will I hike up to the top of Monte Incudine and I wish to be at the top before the clouds do.
So in the dark I pack together the tent and my backpack. I'm not alone in the wee hours of the day; small lights from headlights are visible all around. It's chilly this early in the morning. I eat breakfast inside the cabin together with some of the other walkers. A small light is visible on the sky when I leave at half seven in the morning, starting with an ascent up to Bocca di Suragheddu (1786m). What follows is a beautiful walk.
In the morning at Arête a Monda. A red hue in the sky. Monte Incudine in the horizon.
The sun is rising up from the sea and is bathing Arête a Monda in a red light. The GR20 are going along the ridge with a view to the sea on one side and a view down towards small villages (Cozzano being one of them) on the other side, forward lies Monte Incudine in the horizon. The trail is rocky and I often have to scramble small parts of it, changing from one side to the other all the time. The view is changing almost from meter to meter. Over me the sky is blue with a red hue. Some of the rock formations turn bright red in the sunlight.
The sunrays are reflected on the surface of the sea.
A small camera lies abandoned on the trail, wet from dew after staying outside alone in the night. It's lying there forgotten and abandoned with its memories. Arête a Monda is gradually going lower, the sunrise has finished and the sky has forgotten its red veil.
View back to Arête a Monda, Punta Capella can be seen in the background. A great start on the fantastic day.
The path is going downwards into a nice beech grove. A large fallen tree is a fitting bench for a short break. The trees are getting more and more prominent as the trail is going lower in altitude.
I reach the Bocca di l'Agnonu; here is the junction where you have to choose between the route over Monte Incudine and the new route that goes to Refuge de Matalza. PNRC (Parc Naturel Regional de Corse) decided to split the original stage between Usciolu and Asinau into two stages. The route that went over the top was closed and the waymarks removed (however it was still possibly to walk it). After pressure from walkers the route was reopened and is now remarked as well. For me the decision was given. The old sign lies in pieces next to the trail.
The trail is going down towards the lowland and trees, if not sparse, are taking over the surroundings on the way down to Bocca di l'Agnonu.
From Bocca di l'Agnonu the trail is following a track through the beech woods. Beyond the waymarks on the trees I can see clearly the grey paint used to paint over the old waymarks. I emerge out of the forest to the sight of a fantastic landscape, verdant fields and rolling hills spreads out in front of me. A hobbit-landscape, hopefully not a stupid ring. The scenery I'm enjoying the view of is Plateau de Cuscione and is well worth taking a break for.
Plateau de Cuscione. Verdant fields and rolling hills with a mountain standing guard in the background (Monte Incudine).
With a clear sky above me I walk through the grass on the meadows, Monte Incudine is reaching up towards the same sky in the horizon. A group of wanderers is passing me by over the rolling hills. The grass is blowing lightly in the little wind. One trekking shoe stands abandoned on the top of a boulder next to the trail, bringing forth memories of the camino previous year.
Walking over the bride at Ruisseau de Furchinchesu.
Behind me Hadrian and Antoine come running, someone has clearly a lot of energy. Three horses grazes where I leave the lush meadow. I have to pass over a suspension bridge over Ruisseau de Furcinchesu before the trail starts to gain height again and is moving upwards to Monte Incudine. I reach the ruins of Refuge d'I Pedinieddi, which was destroyed by a lightning strike in 1981. This is the only place along the GR20 where there is legally to camp away from a cabin. It's a fitting place for a break, while eating some food I starts to think about the wanderers of times past that stayed the night here, only the foundations are left of the refuge.
Usciolu in the distance and verdant lowland below, seen from the trail on my way up to Monte Incudine.
I leave the lowland behind me going up towards Crête de la Foce Aperta; in the distance I can see the mountains that are encircling the Refuge d'Usciolu. Cows look stupid at me when I walk past them. The boys hasn't caught up with me yet (which I really had thought they would have), maybe their energy level ran a little low at the end. Clouds are on their way, but at the moment its clear sight.
At the summit of Monte Incudine (or Monte Alcudina which it's called in English). They do have crosses on the summits here as well.
I reach the summit, at 2134m, in good time before the clouds. Like legions of war they're hoarding up against the Aiguilles de Bavella. The ascent to Monte Incudine was quite easy, but isn't where I came up from where the steep part is. The view is great; far away I can still see Paglia Orba towering in the horizon. Far below can I see the roof of the Refuge d'Asinau and the stone houses of Bergeries d'Asinau.
Hadrien and Antoine appear at the top shortly after me. After spending some time at the top we go down towards Asinau. Here the descent is steep; it will be considerably harder to climb up to Monte Incudine from Asinau than from where I went up. There is almost no one at Refuge d'Asinau, not even the gardiens. Anyway, I haven't planned to stay at the refuge; I intend to walk further down to Bergeries d'Asinau which is visible below the refuge.
View north from Monte Incudine. The clouds are lying like a legion against the mountainsides.
We receive a warm welcome by Aline, the very nice and hospitable hostess at the auberge, when we arrive. After a little while Madeleine, Lisa and Guillaume also arrives. While we are relaxing outside in the sun with a cold beer, she treats us with biscuits, white chocolate and mint-syrup. This being the start of maybe the nicest evening I had on the GR20.
Aiguilles de Bavella with its characteristic pointed peaks.
After a while the clouds escapes the grip of the Aiguilles and are drifting in over us high above. Though, there are large gaps letting the sun shine down on the auberge. Me and Hadrien play petanque with a neighbor of the auberge, him against us. We loose. The dinner is served inside in one of the small stone huts, with fire in the fireplace and candles on the table, cozy. Plenty of good food and red wine. Afterwards we went out and lit up a bonfire outside the auberge (which is a rarity down here, since it's forbidden to light a fire along the route otherwise). There's a big chance there are some persons that are looking envious down upon us and the bonfire from the cabin above.
Bergeries d'Asinau. Petanque in the afternoon.
It's been a magical day at the GR20, but even a magic day comes to an end and I go to sleep inside in one of the stone huts. A fantastic day with great variations in the landscape I passed through, crowned with a very nice evening at the auberge.
<- UscioluVillage de Bavella ->
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