Røldalsleden // day 4 // Straumen - Tyrvelistøylen

Røldalsleden, day 4.
Distance: 31.3km (130.0km).

The night was soft, the morning is chilly and I have another long day ahead of me. After heading out of Grungedal valley, Røldalsleden will journey through Edland and Haukeli before venturing up into the Haukeliheii mountains, undoubtedly the most exciting parts of today. After Haukeliheii, the trail will go past the upland lake of Vågslivatnet, then a larger cabin area before heading up into the Haukelifjell mountains. How far I will reach today, is yet to see, but my hope is to get up into those mountains before the end of the day.

Grunge kyrkje.

Walking next to the Tveitevatnet lake.

First, however, I have to finish the walk through Grungedal. From my campsite between Grungevatn and Tveitevatnet lakes, the trail heads towards Grunge kyrkje on a visible, but obfuscated path. Grunge kyrkje was built in 1850, after a building period of four years. The reason that it took so long, was that it was demanded that everyone that belonged to the parish should give timber or money to the construction of the church; but the peasants was not eager to provide timber and money it was little of. It is not a big church and unusually built in an empire style.

At the end of the Grungedal valley, the pilgrimage path leaves on a very obscure path, which is hard to find and follow.

Cliffside scramble, the cliffs that I had to scramble down from.

From the church, the pilgrim route largely follows the road next to Tveitevatnet lake, but thankfully on a good path next to the water and not on the road. Cars do roam past me, but the walk is still pleasant due to the surroundings.

Towards Edland.

Front window of an old and closed down store in Edland.

Out of Grungedal, another peculiar lost section of the trail is found. I am to walk about 50m after seeing a small red house to my right, then I am going to see a pilgrim mark and head onto a footpath into the woods. But there are no red house to my right and no mark to see. Passing by some small houses on my right, I know I have gone too far (according to my map).

Statue of Storegut in Edland.

Heading back, I see that there are people present at a cottage close to where I expected the footpath to be. I figure out I can walk up to them and ask if they know anything about the path. Not only do I get some answers, but they also invite me up for some food and coffee. For one who has experienced a lot of hospitality when walking abroad, it is great to experience the same thing at home, I am humbled. It turns out that she is actually the cousin of a well known Norwegian singer called Sondre Bratland (who is from this area, Edland to be specific).

An old mill at Haukeli.

On the climb up from Haukeli, with a view of Grungedal.

Matters are sorted out, the red house is long gone and there is a path going nearby, although not it its best condition. I struggle to find the path at first, even after being told where to find it, only when I get to a forest track do I find a more distinct path leading further. No waymarks, I suspect that this is yet another part left out to be forgotten. After trying as best I can do to follow the path, with the path sometimes not a path at all, I stand looking over the busy highway. Below me are some cliffs, with safety nets installed to catch any eventual rock falls, and no apparent way further. I end up go scrambling down the cliffs, hopefully not scaring any drivers on the road.

Vadfoss waterfall.

In Edland, Velemoen Camping provides accommodation in bungalows. This is another small community, but one famous person from here was anything but small, known as Storegut ('Big Boy'). He was a stout man, standing taller than everybody else. Despite being a good-natured and calm man, he was always challenged by other men who wanted to try their strength against him. He bested all of them, but eventually got into an argument with a man that lived on his childhood farm (from where Storegut had to leave when his father got in financial difficulty). One day Storegut disappeared while out with their herd, never to be found again. All believed he was killed, but the truth was never known.

Going through a birch path.

Apart from a shop at Arbuvollen, with uncertain and erratic opening hours, the supermarket at Haukeli is the last chance for buying provisions before you arrive in Røldal. To go there you have to leave the trail and walk half a kilometre. This is done where the path starts the climb up from Hedde Bru, marked with a 'Ålmannvegen' sign. You can also find accommodation nearby the supermarket, at Haukeli Motell.

The start of the Ålmannvegen path is slightly overgrown.

Having walked through Edland on hard surface, and made the detour to the supermarket to buy the last meals I need for the rest of my pilgrimage, I feel the new weight on my back on the climb up towards Haukeliheii.

Passing by the Varatjønn lake.

The path up towards the moorlands is a path with views, backward towards the narrow valley of Grungedal that I have walked through, forward towards the hill known as Åsen ('The Hill') where St. Olav is believed to have been standing on the top of of. Across the valley is the Vadfoss waterfall cascading down from the mountains. Old farms are passed by on both sides of the road, some with buildings dating back to before year 1350.

An old cairn up in the Haukeliheii moorlands.

From Hovsdalen valley, the pilgrim path to Røldal is making use of the old road across the mountains between east and west of Norway, known as 'Ålmannvegen'. Initially, the path is overgrown, but adequately waymarked with the returning yellow blazes from the hike over Morgedalsheiene (between Morgedal and Øyfjell). The cross of Røldal waymark is also seen along the way, but pay attention anyway.

Across the Haukeliheii.

The landscape of Haukeliheii is similar to the moorlands between Morgedal and Øyfjell passed over earlier, but lighter and more open. And the scenery appear far more green. Both equally beautiful, adorned with lakes. Hills rising up, all gazes leads towards the higher mountains ahead, with snow still lingering on top of them.

The lovely scenery of the Haukeliheii mountains and moorlands.

It is a stunning walk, unquestionably the highlight of today and I am so lucky with the weather. After the rain on the first day, I have just had a hot and beautiful sky above me, but there is a chill wind blowing in. The path is good, and dry. Occasionally, an old cairn are spotted next to the path. Around me are scattered mountain birchs, sometimes many, but never so many that they forms tight clusters of forest. White cottongrass fluttering in the breeze. Here and there are some small cottages visible. I find a spot for lunch, heating up my stove for a hot meal and a cup of coffee.

Røldalsleden over Haukeliheii.

At Raftdalsmoen, coming down from Haukeliheii, I struggle to find the way further. Quite significantly is a signpost for 'Ålmannvegen' almost hidden inside a small tree. No bridge, as I was supposed to find, is present, but a detour on the gravel track leading up to the mountain farm provides a way for me to cross the river on another bridge and get back to the route later on.

Amundtjønn, one of the lakes that I had singled out to spend the night at, but proved to be too early.

Verpi or Ålmannsrøysa, a cairn where the travellers are supposed to leave a stone for the remainder of the journey should go well.

A pleasant, but more wet walk follows, as the route crosses several marshes and creeks. At one place I take a wrong turn, all my own fault, and have to backtrack to get back on route. I spot another of those waymarks where the mark is about to peel off the wooden brick it is posted on. A gravel pit appears like a gash, but is quickly passed by.

Raftdalsmoen.

Signpost hidden in the trees at Raftdalsmoen.

Time has flown by when I arrive at the shores of the Vågslivatnet lake, being almost half past six in the afternoon. This means I have used about 9.5 hours getting this far today, only walking about 20km. At the back of the lake rises a flat line of mountains, with large patches of snow on them. Above is the sun creating reflections of light on the surface. And a fine track, which the pilgrimage is following, is going alongside the water. Accommodation can be found here at the Haukelifjell Gjestehus.

A small wooden bridge to a nearby cabin.

At Vågslidtun Hotell (if you require some more luxurious accommodation, this is the place), I stop for a beer, but what is really tempting is to buy dinner here. Now is the season for mountain trout and I doubt my planned dinner for the evening will be as delicious.

Moor and marshland.

Path towards the Vågslivatnet lake.

No sign is found pointing towards 'Vågslid Villmark' as it is stated in the guidebook, but where the wilderness ('Villmark' in Norwegian) is to be found is beyond me. The scenery around me is definitely mountainous and in nature, but wilderness it is not. How can it be with a busy highway running straight through it? Not to forget that the trail goes straight through a big cabin area (there is a possibility that this cabin area is what is named 'Vågslid Villmark', as a selling point for the cabins). I quickly go past the big cabins (why do people need cabins that are so big? it is as you bring with you everything from your normal everyday life, when the idea of getting out in the nature is to get a break from your everyday life). This cabin area is walked through after the end of Vågslivatnet lake and you can find both accommodation and possibly the last shop before Røldal at Arbuvollen nearby (you have to leave the trail though).

Vågslivatnet.

At Tyrveli, another cabin area and a ski station ('Haukelifjell Skisenter'), Røldalsleden is heading up into the Haukelifjell mountains. The route goes up on one of the slopes of the ski station, but which one? Again no waymarks. Consulting and comparing the description and map in the guidebook with my papermap, I make a choice of taking the track leading less steep up from the ski station paraphernalia (the one going westwards at the left). One of the metal waymarks that has the stave church engraved on it, but with all the engravings gone, confirms that I am on the right way (the track has turned into a path at this time). It is getting late, when I begin the ascent, the clock ticking in at half past eight.

Cottongrass in the cabin area.

Eivindbuvatn lake.

As the cabins mostly disappears from view, the scenery changes to low heather and small creeks originating from nearby small lakes. A network of paths is crossing my way, which one is the true pilgrimage path is hard to know, but my destination is clear enough. A lone cabin or old pasture is visible on the other side of a lake, Tyrvelistøylen. At the pasture, I return to the old mountain way of 'Ålmannvegen', wondering why the pilgrimage left it at all. No one in the cabin, so I pick a nice spot close to the lake. At a quarter past nine, this is the latest end of a walk so far on the pilgrimage.

At Haukelifjell Skisenter, the trail leaves on the gravel track seen to the left.

It is a nice spot. Quiet and with a nice view of the snowclad mountains, the cabins at Tyrveli are barely visible. I eat the last of the meals I brought with me (half a bag of freeze-dried food). Although late, I need a coffee. As darkness settles, I retreat to my tent and a special treat; from the store at Haukeli, I have brought with me a beer.

View from above Tyrveli.

It got late, but I made it as far as I had hoped, reached the Haukelifjell mountains. Another day with beatiful weather and a varied walk. Without doubt the hike over the Haukeliheii moorlands was the highlight of the walk, that section was simply put wonderful. To encounter hospitality at home was also great, especially on a solitary walk like this. Finding the way proved reasonably good today, but with some places requiring special attention. This is still a part of the pilgrimage that needs improvement for it to become more accessible to most people.

At Tyrvelistøylen, I camped just across the little lake.

Tips for this part of the Røldalsleden (from Straumen to Tyrvelistøylen):

• * The path down to the stream between Grungevatnet and Tveitevatnet towards Grunge church is messy, but waymarked.
• * At the end of the Grungedal valley and Tveitevatnet lake, the trail is leaving the road on a short detour through the woods, but this path is hard to find and is not waymarked at all. It might actually be better to continue on the busy highway (E134) instead of trying to find the path. The small red house mentioned in the guidebook has been demolished.
• * In Edland, accommodation can be found at Velemoen Camping, and not long after at Haukeli (H. Motell). After Haukeli, the next place to find a place to stay is at Vågsli, either at Haukelifjell Gjestehus or Vågslidtun Hotell (about 8km or 11km later). At Arbuvollen, a small detour off the route shortly afterwards, you can also find accommodation.
• * Beware that with the exception of the mountain cabin run by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT) at Haukeliseter, there are no accommodation to be found after making the climb up from Tyrveli, until you reach Røldal.
• * Food stores can be found at Haukeli and Arbuvollen. Arbuvollen is the absolute last place to get provisions from before the final 43km to Røldal. The supermarket at Haukeli is the best bet, as Arbuvollen is more uncertain when it comes to opening hours.
• * The waymarking over the Haukeliheii moorlands is generally good, but beware that the yellow blazes are the ones to follow here, although you will also find the usual Røldalsleden waymark here too.
• * At Raftdalsmoen, the waymarks disappear, as well as the bridge that was used to cross the river. If wading across the river does not strike a tune in you, a detour can be found by taking the gravel track leaving the mountain farm to the southwest. Shortly after crossing the river on a bridge, you can then take the first gravel track to the right at a junction. This gravel track will bring you back to the pilgrimage path again.
• * The path could be cumbersome after the gravel pit before Vågslid.
• * No waymarking through the cabin area after Vågslidvatnet lake.
• * At Tyrveli and Haukelifjell Skisenter (ski station) the path is going on the gravel track leading less steep up from the back of the ski station. There are no waymarks providing you directions for this, and I saw only one waymark on the way up (with missing engravings on it).
• * If you miss the correct track up from the ski station, but take another slope instead, you should still be able to get back on the route by looking for the Tyrvelistøylen cabin. It stands quite solitary to the north / northwest, next to a lake.
• * Look for this solitary cabin, Tyrvelistøylen, when getting up to the moorlands above Tyrveli, there are many paths crossing here and no waymarks.
• * The normal stages on this part are Mjonøy to Edland, Edland to Vågsli, Vågsli to Ulevå.

<< Straumen // day 3Øysteinsvatnet // day 5 >>

Røldalsleden // day 3 // Gregardstjønn - Straumen

Røldalsleden, day 3.
Distance: 41.0km (98.7km).

Third day would see me cover the end of the stage between Øyfjell and Åmot, then the stage between Åmot and Mjonøy, before taking a big bite of the stage between Mjonøy and Edland. Meaning I had a long day ahead of me as I woke up at Gregardstjønn to another lovely morning. Through these areas of Telemark, Røldalsleden is going on idyllic old ways, rural roads, small footpaths, but also next to the busy highway, with old houses and inspiring scenery ever close to the path. My projected place to end the day meant a small uncertainty when it comes to finding a place to camp.

Forest path between Gregardstjønn and Hyllandsfoss.

From Gregardstjønn, the pilgrim path is heading down towards the centre of Vinje municipality (the largest municipality in Telemark), Åmot. It does so on another obscure and wet path going through the woods. Without the waymarks, it would be quite difficult to locate the path, which mostly is concealed by heather. Waymarking when the trail goes through the woods has so far been good, which I find uplifting, but it is still sometimes a little bit problematic to see where the route leaves the roads to enter the woods. It is a pleasant walk in the early day.

View from above Åmot with the mountains in the background.

Ormetjønn lake, passed by on the way out of Åmot.

At Hyllandfoss the path goes through the campsite with the same name (the first place you will find accommodation in Åmot at), but the route through the campsite and the ensuing forest is unclear. Eventually, I find myself on the road leading down to the centre of the village, but before reaching the village the route goes through the next campsite, Groven. I spot no waymarks either pointing to where I should enter the campsite and through it, but I know that I should reach Vinje Forsvarsmuseeum (the Vinje museum of defense).

Røldalsleden going up the steep Bæjuvbrekke, where once cars had to drive up when this was the old way.

Trolldomssteinen (The magic rock), listen carefully when walking alone past this stone, something might be following you.

In Åmot, Vinje Kro is a hub for the express buses between the west and east of Norway and I had hoped to get a cup of coffe at the café. However, the day is still early and the café has yet to open. I have to settle for coffee at the nearby gas station. For those needing to buy provisions, there are several food stores in Åmot, but beware that there are no more until you reach Haukeli about 44km later.

An old loft with a Christmas gnome (nisse).

Going through an acre.

Where Røldalsleden goes from Åmot is a little bit tricky, but it leaves the village at the backside of the Spar shop. Once down you leave the noise from the busy highway and find yourself next to the Ormetjønn lake. From the small scenic lake, the trail will follow old ways all the way to Vinje, only crossing the busy highway at times. The way is far from flat and at Bæjuvbrekka the trail goes steep up a hill where in old times cars also had to drive. For those old cars, this climb was so hard that local boys made money by helping pushing the cars up, but not all the cars made it to the top and had to make a long detour instead.

On the old road leading up the infamous Vinjebakkane, here someone has made painted boxes next to the path.

Remains of the old school at Blankeskar. Built in 1862 and was used as a school until 1934.

Further on there is a large rock called Trolldomssteinen (The magic rock), a signboard next to it tells me that if I walk alone past the rock I have to listen good. Then I would hear that there is someone following me. I will keep what I heard to myself.

Passing by Mule farm. In the last time of the life of Halldis Moren Vesaas, she used to walk up to this farm every day. One day the farmer had set out two white chairs for her to rest on, leading to her writing the 'To kvite stolar' (two white chairs) poem.

Old loft at Mule farm, with a face looking back at you.

The path here goes past places where once an old mill house stood, where there once was a market, on top of a wall called Brubryggja (The bridge pier) and through the old farm of Bru. The loft at this farm is from 1760, but the smaller loft is even older. I come down to dam at the Vinjeåi river. The waymarking when first finding it after Åmot has been good, but at Øygarden I miss a turnoff and finds myself on a disappearing path in the woods outside the farm. When back on track, I walk on a path that gets overgrown and ends on a just as overgrown walk through an acre.

Midtbø, home of the poet couple Tarjei Vesaas and Halldis Moren Vesaas.

Crossing the highway, Røldalsleden is continuing to use the old ways. Be sure not to miss the turnoff the lookout point at Kikås, which I did. The track is now going past the infamous Vinjebakkene. This old road was built under the notion that it should be going in as straight way as possible, disregarding the fact that it would mean some steep climbs for the travellers. Several wooden boxes with paintings on are passed by. After Mule farm, whose history goes far back, I descend down to a spot where I can overlook Midtbø, the home of a famous Norwegian poet-couple, Tarjei Vesaas and Halldis Moren Vesaas.

A log cabin and the mountains.

Tjodvorlie, a scenic farm where the artist Nils Aas used to spend his holidays.

Moments after glimpsing Midtbø, Røldalsleden is heading back up into the hills again. Now the path is less apparent, the surface is at times overgrown, but thankfully the terrain and contours of the landscape are giving away where the trail has to go. Overgrown also means flowers, so it is quite nice actually. The path heads down to busy highway again past some nice old farms and lofts, with the mountains as a backdrop.

At Bøgrend, I find the pilgrim path fenced off.

Probably the ugliest sight so far on Røldalsleden. The scar left behind by the expansion of the highway at Bøgrend (this will hopefully be better when the construction is finished). At the turn at the end of the road, the trail is heading down towards Vinjevatn lake.

At Bøgrend there are two problems in my way. First I find the path barred off by a fence, which is solved by climbing over it. Secondly, an expansion of the busy highway has led to the construction is hiding where to turn off and go down to the Vinjevatn lake. Here a waymarker on a pole looks forlorn amidst the chaos from the construction debris. Some time is lost trying to locate the path, but eventually I find the route down to the lake where a picnic table is a convenient spot for lunch.

A serene view of the Vinjevatn lake and mountains behind.

Walking through a meadow with flowers towards Vinje kyrkje.

To Vinje kyrkje Røldalsleden is going through a lovely meadow. The church is where Tarjei Vesaas and Halldis Moren Vesaas are buried, is painted in a red color and the foundations have rose paintings in black. Vinje is also where another poet had his home, Aasmund Olavsson Vinje. After a short stint on a side road, the longest stretch of road walking on the busy E134 road is awaiting me. From Vinje, it goes all the way to Mjonøy, approximately 3km later. The traffic comes in waves, which is fortunate, and is probably due to the convoy over Haukelifjell mountain. Vinjesvingen Handel, a small store selling local products and delicacies, provides a friendly coffee stop.

The characteristic colored Vinje kyrkje.

Details of the red-painted church in Vinje, notice the black rose paintings on the foundation.

Mjonøy is a campsite that also provides accommodation in cabins. Although close to the road, it is a nice place. And they have a wonderful bakery. After gorging on a juicy cinnamon bun, I follow the path out of the campsite through the woods, before going on winding small roads at Smørklepp (home of the art gallery Vinje Biletgalleri). Here, when having left the hamlet behind, Røldalsleden is going on a path about to disappear in the undergrowth. It is a nice path, but watch out for the small yellow waymark pointing towards where the path leaves the rural road.

Monument to Aasmund Olavsson Vinje.

Inside the bakery at Mjonøy Camping.

Grungedal is where I have my mind set on for the night, the walk there goes on a pleasant, calm and quiet road (Heievegen) on the east side of the Smørkleppåi river. Mountains are reaching up on each side and my legs are now feeling like they have been walking up those mountains rather than in the valleys below. I spend some time talking to a local couple giving me some advice on where I could find a place to camp.

On the trail through Smørklepp.

Overgrown pilgrim path after Smørklepp.

I miss the turnoff down to the first possible place to find a place for my tent, but manages to find another route to it shortly after. The place has so much a hillbilly-feeling to it, probably nothing to be afraid of, but I leave it be. The walk through Grungedal is an interesting one. It is nice to see the haymaking being done in the old and traditional way. A huge rock named Tovslandkyrkja (the Tovsland church) lies at the entrance to Grungedal village. There has always been strong beliefs attached to huge rocks like this one, both in heathen times and in the ensuing Christian times. So as with other rocks of this size there are various myths and legends connected to it, one sinister one is that a honeymoon was resting here and the rock plunged over them. Everyone in the company was killed and they are supposedly still lying underneath the rock.

A narrow loft.

Scenic road next to the Smørkleppåi river.

After walking through the quiet village centre, the pilgrim path heads through a couple of acres on an overgrown and difficult path to follow. This is all found due to the guidebook, as waymarks are literally non-existent. Another part I suspect to be re-reouted, as really is the case after getting back to the road, where new waymarks directs me to a path that diverges from the one described in the guidebook. This rerouting is however welcome, as it goes on a gravel track instead of alongside the busy road.

Quiet walk towards Grungedal with the mountains closing in.

Between the two lakes of Grungevatn and Tveitevatnet, at Straumen, I find a good campsite. Secluded and with a nice place to enjoy the evening and setting sun at. As well as for preparing my dinner.

In Grungedal.

Another overgrown path, in Grungedal.

A lot more roadwalking on this leg of Røldalsleden, but fortunately the longest stretch on the highway saw less traffic than expected. Scenery was mostly nice throughout the walk, disregarding the scar of the construction around the highway at Bøgrend. Most scenic sections was from Gregardstjønn and down to Hyllandsfoss, and then between Åmot and Bøgrend.

Afternoon sun from my campsite at Straumen.

Tips and tricks for this part of the Røldalsleden (from Gregardstjønn to Straumen):

• * Waymarking was good from Gregardstjønn and down to Hyllandsfoss, but difficult through the campsite. No waymarkers down to Åmot and through the next campsite. If unsure of finding the route, you can just follow the road and you will get to the centre of Åmot to pick up the trail (behind the Spar shop).
• * If unsure to find the route from Åmot, get down to the east side of the Ormetjønn lake (you should see the lake if walking on the busy highway).
• * Åmot is the first place to find accommodation, at the Hyllandsfossen and Groven campsite.
• * There are also accommodation to be find at the campsite in Mjonøy, about 18km after Åmot. In Grungedal, 13km later, accommodation can be found at Visit Svalastog.
• * The only food stores on this part of Røldalsleden is in Åmot, next store is located approximately 44km later at Haukeli.
• * Finding the path after Ormetjønn lake should be easy, but it is easy to miss where the path heads back up to the road next to a garage at Øygarden farm later on. The ensuing path is likely to be overgrown and takes you through an acre.
• * It is not easy to spot the waymarks leading to the forest path after Midtbø.
• * In Bøgrend the route is leaving the road just before the junction towards Våmårtveit, but there are no waymarks. This path soon gets barred off by a fence, which it is possible to climb over, but if you want to avoid that, you can just continue on the road instead (the original route will rejoin the road a little bit later).
• * If the construction is still ongoing at the turn leaving Bøgrend, the pilgrim path is heading down towards the lake below it. The track was visible when I walked there, but consisted of a lot of overturned roots and stones from the construction.
• * Could not spot any waymarks at Vinje kyrkje, but you are to follow the road on the upside of the church.
• * Instead of walking on the road, there is supposedly a track or path that you can follow on the east side of the Smørkleppåi river. You need to turn off before the bridge. This was supposed to be a new waymarked route, but I could not see any waymarks pointing in that direction.
• * No waymarks through the hamlet of Smørklepp, and a yellow waymark that could be hard to see tells you where to find the path after Smørklepp. Pay attention as to where you get back to the road again.
• * Walked straight past where the route is to leave the road after Grunge bridge (a more clearer track is found soon afterwards though).
• * After walking through Grungedal centre, the route is leaving the road on a overgrown and difficult path to follow, no waymarks.
• * Path rerouted after coming back to the road after the overgrown path, if not following the difficult path, look for waymarks next to the road.
• * The normal stages on this part are Øyfjell to Åmot, Åmot to Mjonøy, Mjonøy to Edland.

<< Gregardstjønn // day 2Tyrvelistøylen // day 4 >>