Camino de Finisterre // day 3 // Olveiroa - Negreira

Camino de Finisterre, day 3 (Camino day 40).
Distance: 34.5km (98.9km / 1119.2km).
Weather: A good mix of nice weather and rain.

Just one more night or two days of walking before I once again will walk into Santiago de Compostela. Leaving Santiago on the Camino de Finisterre, I normally would prefer going further than Negreira, Vilaserio is to me a better place to stop. There are several reasons for that, one is that I find it too short of a walk, another is that I have not found Negreira to be such an interesting place. In the opposite direction, the are not the same, if I go to Negreira today, I will have a shorter walk into Santiago tomorrow. That would be nice.

Olveiroa sign illuminated in the wee hours of the day.

Eating breakfast at Casa Loncho (the same that I had dinner at yesterday), I talk to another pilgrim. A girl that has walked all the way from her home in Stuttgart, which is very cool. I kind of like that. Just put your back on, walk out of your door and start walking. No travel by cars, buses, trains or planes to your starting point. Just out the door and your adventure has begun, your home is your starting point. If we Norwegians set such a rule on our walks, meaning no travel by any means of transportation except our own feet, we would have to walk a very long way to get to Santiago de Compostela. That would be a Camino to remember.

Sunrise behind Monte Aro.

I have not walked far out of Olveiroa in the nice morning light before I meet the first pilgrim of the day. There are more albergues here, two not far away in Ponte Olveira, so it is not that unexpected. On the other hand, there appear to be more and more common that pilgrims are waking up earlier and start walking for a long time in the dark before it gets light. I do not know if it is out of fear of not getting a place to sleep at the end of the day, but I feel a little bit sad at this trend on the Camino. I love to start up early in the dark, true, but only just before it gets bright.

A glow around Monte Aro as the sun is rising from behind, view from Mirador de Corzón.

When I walk around the hill above Corzón, the sun will soon rise above Monte Aro ahead. I can see the fangs of the sun clawing its way through the clouds. This time too I cannot refrain from climbing up to the Mirador de Corzón. It has a great view of the area, but the sunset above Monte Aro happened on my way up. As soon as the sun was visible above the low mountain, shining bright for a short while, it hid itself behind some clouds. Instead of going back down, I decide to walk a little bit further on the ridge at the top of the small hill. Then returning to the Camino after walking down on a path further ahead.

The small hamlet of Lago with a rainbow above.

Light on the Camino going over Monte Aro.

In clear colors towards the blue sky, there is a rainbow, if that is not an omen of something I do not know what it is. And in the hamlet of Lago, I can feel the first raindrops. Fortunately there is a new albergue here with a bar, so I can seek shelter from the rain that suddenly poured down after the first few drops of water. Perfect timing in a way, I was craving a café con letche. The rain stops while I am having my coffee, only to splash down again after I have just left the bar, forcing me to make a hasty retreat to put on my raincoat.

Detour route to Monte Aro.

Drama in the sky, view from Monte Aro.

The route the Camino takes around Monte Aro seems to have been rerouted. Before, it went furter north, but now it goes closer to the top of the small mountain. Although, the previous route was fine enough, the new route is an improvement. It takes you further up, with better views of the surroundings. It also makes me climb all the way up to the top of Monte Aro, it is a short and easy climb up. From the top I can look out and see the changes in the weather awaiting me. Moving over the landscape are scattered rainclouds, some of them is dramatic in appearance. Well worth the detour, with good views of the Galician landscape around. A viewpoint (mirador) is passed by down on the Camino later, but the views are far better from the top.

View from Monte Aro.

Walking eastwards from Monte Aro, the weather becomes as seen from the top. Rainbows in the sky and with rain on and off. I do not bother having my raincoat on either, as I know I will get tired of taking it on and off. It works fine, when it is not raining, my clothes dries quickly anyway in the hot weather. Hard surface gets such a fine shine in the sun after is has rained. I pass by a large group of pilgrims dressed in ponchos, which looks like an organized group tour.

Descent from Monte Aro.

I recoqnize the scenery since I have walked through it before, but it feels nice to walk in the other direction, giving me another view of the Camino. The landscape here is traditional Galican farmland, with farms, hamlets and small villages scattered about the slightly undulating fields. Mostly it is a quiet walk through less populated areas.

A pilgrim group (probably organized) with Monte Aro behind.

Before I arrive in Vilaserio, I come across an older woman, looking as she is a little bit lost. She kindly asks if she can walk together with me, assuring me that she can walk fast if she has to, which is fine by me. Her name is Maria and she has walked all the way from Vezelay, then walked out to Finisterre and is now on her way back to Santiago de Compostela to finish her Camino. Another impressive walk. In Vilaserio I have to stop for lunch, and she buys me the lunch in gratitude for me letting her walk together with me. She did not need to, but I am grateful. Vilaserio is not big, but now there are three albergues here. Two private ones and the official.

Crosses and angels at the Igrexa de Santa Mariña de Maroñas in Santa Mariña.

From Vilaserio we ascend up, using the road at first, before taking off on a forest path. It is still blue sky visible above us, but it is getting smaller for each step now. I have always liked this kind of forlorn way. Walking with Maria learns me several things about her. Firstly, she is really fond of trees. Secondly, she is really fond of cruceiros. And she can walk fast when she need to. Often I look back and find her not there, only to hear a fast patter of footsteps from behind, knowing that she has caught up with me after looking at some trees or cross. It is a little bit strange, but she is a pleasant company.

Fonte de Cornado.

The sky keeps on getting darker and in the horizon it is very black. I wonder if there is thunder approaching too, but only another rainbow materializes. A more constant rainfall does come however, which lasts a lot longer than the previous ones. A reminder of the bleak weather forecast we (Kevin, Kari and I) saw at the end of our Camino Real de Invierno. I cannot complain, I have not had much rain on my 40 days of walking since starting of in Lisboa.

Dark and ominous clouds and a rainbow.

Between A Peña and Zas are the forest paths we walk through especially beautiful now. The wet weather makes the scenery we walk through so much vivid, as the autumn colors gets more accentuated when it is raining. It is a good mixture of warm orange and verdant green. Of course, for Maria that poses a problem, she has to stop up ever so often to look at the trees. I find that fascinating. Come to think of it, it is just another interest, another thing that catches the eye of people.

A beautiful autumnal forest path, on the way towards Negreira.

Another beautiful forest path, on the way towards Negreira.

In the rain, although less than earlier, we arrive in Negreira. Passing underneath the gates of the Pazo do Cotón, which is the most interesting place of Negreira. This old noble house was built in the 14th century, originally a medieval castle. In the small stone houses lined up in the street after the gate, there are various stalls, some of them that will be small shops and cafés. In the same street above the old mansion there are also other old buildings. One of them and old pharmacy.

Horreo in Zas.

This time, I have chosen to stay at the En el Carmen albergue. It is a great choice. Maria had not originally planned to walk this far today, but following in my footsteps she had ended up walking all the way here too. Thankfully there is a place for both of us. A great Camino walk, but we are both happy now to get inside from the rain.

The Pazo de Coton in Negreira.

During the afternoon and evening, I barely leave the albergue. Only taking a extremely short walk out. It is raining heavily outside, too. We got everything we need at the albergue. In the ground floor there is a bar and cafe, and also a restaurant. Listening to the rain outside, it is nice to sit inside and rest. And then we have a nice dinner at place, I have spaghetti and salmon for dinner. Definitely the best time I have had in Negreira.

A pharmacy, another old house in Negreira.

Highlights of the day was again the visit to the Mirador de Corzón, the climb up to Monte Aro, the lovely forest paths towards Negreira in the rain, and surprisingly the evening in the albergue in Negreira. Tomorrow I will be in Santiago de Compostela for the third time on this journey, my quattro Caminos.

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Camino de Finisterre // day 2 // Finisterre - Olveiroa

Camino de Finisterre, day 2 (Camino day 39).
Distance: 32.6km (64.4km / 1084.7km).
Weather: Nice in the beginning, the more clouds later.

Pilgrims usually goes to the cape for the sunset, but what about the sunrise? A part of me wants to go out again in the morning, bring with me some breakfast and watch the sun rise above the mainland to the east. This would in turn mean another possibly late start. I leave it be and instead leaves the albergue to find a place for breakfast. It is quiet on the seafront. I find an open place next to the busstop and municipal albergue, where a long line of pilgrims are already in place waiting for the bus.

Finisterre in the morning, Castelo de San Carlos.

I must say that it does feel a little bit strange to be sitting here before I start on the next leg of my Camino towards Santiago, with the knowledge that most of the others here are now finished. Stating the obvious, I am happy that I am not finished yet. Today, I will go to Olveiroa, despite that I most of all wants to go to Logoso instead. The reason is simple, I have not stayed in Olveiroa on any of my prevous outings to Finisterre or Muxía.

Early morning outside Finisterre.

Praia de Langosteira in the morning.

It is not easy to walk away from the end of the world, but it has to be done. Dawn is still in its early stage when I leave Finisterre and walk towards the Praia de Langosteira. Down at the beach, the light is beautiful, but not entirely awake. A pale pearly blue silhouetted against the cape and the lighthouse. I do not walk on the beach, finding it hard, but I have to go down to it at intervals to watch the progress of the light on the sky. On a path next to the beach are small lamps illuminating the way with a warm atmosphere.

The sun rising behind Monte Pindu.

The first pilgrims walking on their last kilometres, I meet at the entrance to Sardiñeiro de Abaixo. My guess is that they walked to Cee or Corcubión yesterday. I have always found this place a little bit peculiar, but then again, I have only been here off-season. Now it is like an empty beach resort village. From here on, I expect to meet pilgrims quite frequently.

Path to Sardiñeiro de Abaixo.

Encrucijada de San Roque is also one of those strange places, maybe due to the derelict building with sorrowful murals on or the gate to the cemetery that frames in Capo Finisterre. More so because of the albergue de peregrinos here, which always looks empty, abandonded and closed (it's not). In the distance, the sun has now awoken from its slumber, but so has the clouds. Starting the descent to Corcubión, I have a pleasant conversation with two other pilgrims.

San Roque, with Capo Finisterre framed by the cemetery gate.

On the way down, I also face one of the problems of going in the opposite direction, but it is all my own fault. I miss a small waymarker and heads off on a wrong road, only getting aware of my error sometimes later. I remember this part from before, it is a short, but splendid walk on a narrow path between stone walls. The walk to Corcubión from Finisterre has been a good walk, but truth is, it is much better the other way. You miss out on the moment of seeing the cape and lighthouse materialize out across the bay this way. Thankfully, I have experience it before.

Corcubión, the Igrexa parroquial de San Marcos.

Corcubión seafront through the windows of a tiled bench.

Corcubión is a beautiful village, and the Camino through it is nice, but there is some roadworks in the village centre, temporarily marring the scene. It is time for a coffee, definitely time for a café con leche, and I seek coffee shelter in one of the bars near the seaside. I do not remember the tiled art here the last time I passed through, so I reckon they are a newer addition. Low tide, so the green sea bottom has surfaced next to the little bay. From Corcubión there is a short and lovely walk next to it to Cee.

Corcubión.

Finding the route through Cee, the correct route that is, I have given up. On the other hand, I know where the Way enters Cee, so there will be no problem finding the route out. Before that I venture off into the centre of the small town for a place to have lunch, after getting a stamp in the Igrexa de Nosa Señora da Xunqueira.

Artful tiles in Cee.

Given the currently nice weather, it is the part after Cee that I have anticipated the most today, the walk over the Montes de Buxantes towards Hospital. I have not walked far up on the ascent from Cee until I become aware of the difference from the last time I went here. Then it was foggy and low clouds, no visibility, now I can still see the lighthouse at the end of the world. It must be a wondrous sight for the pilgrims coming down on their way out there. In fact, it makes me turn several times just to check that it is still there.

Corcubión and Capo Finisterre from Monte de Armada.

I pass by a cruceiro overlooking the ocean, but there is another cruceiro further in shortly later, reached by a short detour off the Camino. The old Cruceiro de Armada. A short signpost points the way as a punto de interes, someone has scratched the words "not interesting, just a cross" on the signpost. I do not really like these scriblings and tagging on signposts, but I must confess that I laughed a little bit of the words. The cross, or cruceiro, is however a beautiful old one.

Old Cruceiro de Armada.

It is so strange walking over here now, and I cannot help laughing a little bit of my past passage over. Then I could not see anything from the path, except the very close trees. I had no idea what was behind those clouds. It could be an endless line of more trees, a sheer drop, a desert (of course not, but imagination goes a long way in fog) or high mountains. It is neither. In the distance I can see a hill with a huge billboard kind of structure on top, I had no idea that it was there. Below is an undulating forested hilly landscape, with very few buildings scattered around. At the back in the distance due south there are some mountains, Monte Pindo. The walk across the Montes de Buxantes is now an entirely different experience, and I love it.

Walking over the Montes des Buxantes.

On the sky there is a change of scenery though, clouds are rolling in and the wind has picked up. It makes the two small sanctuaries you pass by appear more melancholic. There were some other pilgrims going past me at the top of Monte de Armada (after the ascent from Cee), but now there are only a solitary few. One of the few stops me on the way and asks me why I am going in the opposite direction. I warrant pilgrims finds it strange meeting other pilgrims coming towards them and not walking in the same direction as they do. Far away, I can still see the lighthouse. I notice that the milestone at the split where one route goes to Finisterre and the other goes to Muxía, has been replaced by a new one, or actually two.

Ermita de San Pedro Martir with its sacred fountain.

View from Montes des Buxantes, Monte Pindu at the back.

Logoso has always been a favorite of mine, ever since I arrived here in rain in 2015 after a walk through what felt like a desolate area. I just had a great time here sitting inside and resting while it was raining outside. Now, I need to stop, just to have been here, but will move on. It is quiet here, I guess most pilgrims are at my destination for today too, Olveiroa.

Pilgrim mural at O Logoso albergue.

Outside Logoso, but not on the Camino, lies a wonderful rock formation called Pedra Cabalgada. This is a huge rock balancing on top of another huge rock, with another rock on top of that again. To get there, you have to leave the Camino on a gravel track just before you get to Logoso, and follow that track around the small hill above. Scattered around are several other rocks, and the view of the landscape towards Monte Pindo is great.

View from Pedra Cabalgada.

The rest of the walk to Olveiroa is through the same area that felt desolate when I walked it the first time. It is of course not desolate, but it was the melancholic weather at that time that imposed such a feeling on the landscape. I still love those few kilometres between Logoso and Olveiroa. Olveiroa is also a nice village, especially the part around the albergue with its stone houses. There are no hospitaleros at the albergue when I arrive, but a note telling me to just find a bed and then meet up when she returns to pay and get my stamp. So, I head for a shower and afterwards a cold cerveza at the nearby bar.

Pedra Cabalgada.

I like the albergue with its stony buildings, but the smell is agricultural. I have dinner at the more modern looking Casa Loncho and notice that several other options has emerged here too. Back at the albergue, I notice that someone has unhooked my charger (for my camera) to use for him- or herself, and I know it would not have been finished charging. Irritating. Well, I guess that is a common thing now that everybody uses a smartphone, with their extremely limited battery lifetime.

A sunray through the clouds on the way to Olveiroa.

A better Camino day than yesterday. Highlights of the day was the Pedra Cabalgada and the walk across the Montes des Buxantes, seeing the landscape I before had no clues how looked like.

Horreos and the old chapel in Olveiroa.

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Camino de Finisterre // day 1 // Muxía - Capo Finisterre

Camino de Finisterre, day 1 (Camino day 38).
Distance: 31.8km (31.8km / 1052.1km).
Weather: Nice, but low clouds at the end of the world.

The Camino de Finisterre is an extension to any Camino to Santiago de Compostela. Instead of ending at the cathedral in Santiago, this Camino begins from it and takes you out to the rugged Galician coast and the end of the world (Finisterre), or to the weatherworn fisherman village of Muxía. It is a beautiful Camino and I have done it twice before. One time going to Finisterre and then to Muxía, and another time going directly to Muxía. I also walked to Finisterre after I did my first Camino back in 2011, the French Way, but then I only had time to walk one day. So I took a bus to Cee and walked from there. For many that has walked the whole route of the long Caminos, such as the Frances, Norte, Via de la Plata for instance, coming to the 0.0km marker is a special moment.

Punta da Barca from Monte do Corpiño.

The good thing about the Camino de Finisterre is that it is also waymarked in the opposite direction, meaning towards Santiago de Compostela. This made my decision to walk it in the opposite direction easier to make. I have seen this Way in the direction of Finisterre and Muxía, now I will see it in the direction of Santiago. I will not get the Fisterra or the Muxiella, the sort of certificates that you have walked this Camino, but in return I will get another Compostela instead. It feels somewhat peculiar to again be at the busstation in Santiago early in the morning, remembering when I traveled to Ponferrada for the Camino Real de Invierno.

Nosa Señora da Barca.

The small Parroquia de Santa María chapel.

I have seen the weather report for the upcoming days and it is not positive, when leaving Santiago on the bus the omens are all there too. It is cloudy with a light rain. Thankfully it gets better and better the closer to Muxía I get, and the weather is nice when I step out of the bus. I was wearing a big smile when I could see the houses of Muxía and the distinct Monte do Corpiño from the bus.

The Costa da Morte from Muxía.

My smile gets even bigger when the first person I meet in Muxia is no other than Sang Hee. The last time I saw her was way back on the Camino Portugués, many days ago. I believe that the last time I saw her was at the Casa do Sardão on the way to Caminha from Viana do Castelo. However, I cannot linger too long if I want to get to Finisterre in a reasonable time, so it is with sadness that I have to say goodbye almost as soon as we met. I would love to sit down and catch up with her on how the rest of her Camino went, but I have to go. Still, I was so glad to see her again.

Woodland path up from Xurarantes.

Heading out to the Nosa Señora da Barca, for that is where I want to start this Camino from, I climb over the Monte do Corpiño. The view of Muxía from the top is still wonderful, as is the view of the chapel and lighthouse at the tip of the cape. Personally I favor ending at Muxía if having to choose between Finisterre and Muxía, I love that you can really see that this is a place that gets its share of hard weather. And it makes for a perfect place to start, out at the sea and the lovely chapel standing in defiance of the weather. Then walking around the little cape too the sounds of very old bells tolling from the small Parroquia de Santa María chapel.

The Camino going below Monte Facho Lourido.

Between Muxía and Finisterre it is about 27km of rugged Galician landscape. Having walked it before, I know what to expect. If I had stayed in Muxía, I would probably have chosen to walk the Camino dos Faro to Finisterre. That trail goes much closer to the sea, should be more scenic, but it is longer and harder. And I started too late to take that route. Next time. This will also be my first experience of walking in the opposite direction. I do not expect to meet other pilgrims going the same way, but will constantly meeting all the pilgrims coming from the other direction. My final plan is to walk the Camino Inglés to A Coruña, so this will in some ways teach me what to expect on that Camino.

Morquintián.

I meet the first pilgrim coming from Finisterre already short after Praia de Lourido, where the Camino begins its slow ascent from the hamlet of Xurarantes, but I doubt that he started from Finisterre today. Although, I did start late today, at half past eleven. The walk between Finisterre and Muxía can be split in half by spending the night in Lires (which is also the place you need to get a stamp at). Further up on the nice gravel track through the woods, I meet a couple of others too. After that, I pass by pilgrims at regular intervals. The interesting fact is that when I walked to Muxía from Finistere back in 2015, most of the pilgrims I met came from Muxía.

Río do Castro.

The coast is never far away, but you never really see it that often. Actually, the part of the Camino here where you will see the most of the coast, is at the beginning from Muxía (at the end if you walk in the usual direction). Other than that, I only see it when I am high enough up to see the ocean, or through those glimpses down to the beaches you pass by. They do look beckoning with their sand and proximity to the water. Otherwise, the Way meanders its way through a quiet countryside and small villages, hamlets and farms mostly. It is a pleasant walk free of burden.

Autumn Camino.

Locals near Castrexe.

Autumn colors are taking its fair share of the vegetation around me. A farmer (I believe) in front of me seems to be just as happy as I am, making small dance jumps and moves. Today, I just walk with satisfied peace of mind, I have reached my two main goals for this adventure, the Camino Portugués and the Camino Real de Invierno. This Camino and the Camino Inglés are bonus walks so to say.

Praia do Rostro.

In Lires, I sit down at the same place I sat down in 2015. I think there are more pilgrims here now than then (probably more places to eat too). A pilgrim with a trolley arrives too, he looks tired, but if it is due to the trolley or not I cannot tell. The trolley must be very useful at times, but cumbersome at other times.

Pilgrims towards Finisterre.

After Lires I meet less other pilgrims, which is understandable. The scenery does not change either, with the exception of the view of the sandy beaches. Somehow walking to Finisterre feels longer than what I remember walking to Muxía from Finisterre was. Close to Finisterre, with the evening sunlight being filtered through the trees next to me, I overtake two other pilgrims also going to Finisterre.

Finisterre

Of course, arriving in Finisterre is also great. Even if I have stated that I prefer Muxia, Finisterre is a great place too. One difference is that Finisterre lies sheltered on the inside of the cape, while Muxía lies more directly in the path of the weather coming from the sea. I Finisterre, I find myself a bed at the El Sacra Piedra albergue, which is very nice and with a friendly hospitalero. I just get my bed, my stamp and then leaves my things behind. Then I go and find a shop, buying with me something for the end of the world.

Looking out towards the other side of the bay from Capo Finisterre.

Although on a hard surface, the walk out to the 0.0km marker of the Camino is a nice one and a little bit sentimental. Scattered around, beneath the lighthouse, are the pilgrims at the end of their journey. Most of them would have walked the Camino Frances, but there are bound to be some other Caminos between them too. Even with the natural beauty of the place, the setting carries with it a special atmosphere. You feel it from the pilgrims you walk by or sit close too. The weather is still nice, but in the horizon clouds has settled down. I probably will not be seeing the sun disappearing into the sea, but it will still be beautiful.

The end of the world.

And it is. It is more like the setting sun is making a painting on the sky. The clouds are the patterns, colored red by the sunset. The sea too. And beyond is the wide ocean. Quiet murmurs from the other pilgrims around me. For most of the pilgrims here, the journey is over, they have reached the end of the Camino, but I still have some more days to go. There are not so many that are burning some of their worn clothes here now, as there are some prohibitions in place, but there are still traces of fires all over the place. It gets dark when I am out here, and the beam from the lighthouse becomes visible, adding to the atmosphere before I return to Finisterre.

Sunset at Capo Finisterre.

The lighthouse at the end of the world.

The hospitalero at my albergue gives me advice about a place to eat and also ends up showing me the place. It is not down by the seaside or in the narrow streets of the small town itself, but up at the same road the leads to the lighthouse and cape. He is spot on, and at the same time giving me memories of my hike in South Korea. Here I eat marinaded meat that I barbeque myself on a heated stone right at the table. Together with fried potatoes and vegetables, it is a great meal. A nice enough day of walking, but a great start and end.

Barbecuing my own great dinner at a good restaurant in Finisterre.

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