GR20 // day 14 // Vizzavona - E Capanelle

Distance: 16km, altitude at start: 920m, altitude at end: 1586m, highest point: 1645m.

The northern part of the GR20 lies behind me, now the southern part awaits me. I leave the hotel, eager to get going after having spent three days in Vizzavona. Walking past the long lost windows of the Grand Hôtel de la Forêt I can hear whispers from the past. A little bit further and I stand before the sign marking the start of the GR20 sud, next stop E Capanelle.

At Vizzavona by the start of the GR20 sud. To the right the end (or the start) the path to the GR20 north.

I cross the road (N193) and it feels more like that this is where the trail to the Bergeries d'E Capanelle really starts, when you leave the civilization again. A road through the forest in the start. Like the ascent up to Monte d'Oro it first gets nice when I leave the tracks above Vizzavona for good and starts to walk on trails only. The forest around here feels like it could be in a fairytale. A sign points the way to Bois Brule, here the plants entwines themselves around the trees while the gnomes hides behind the bushes.

Monte d'Oro reaches up from the wooded hills above Vizzavona.

Fairytale forest above Vizzavona, a sign shows the path to Brule. Corsican gnomes, fairies and trolls lurking in the bush.

Further up the forest gets lighter and sunlight spreads more and more between the trees. Then suddenly two Norwegian flags are walking in front of me on the trail, Lisa and Madeleine are coming from the northern part of Norway and has left the cold north for a warmer climate. The first Norwegians I've met since I said goodbye to Lauritz and Agnes in Corte.

I take a little detour out to a clearing with a great view back towards Monte d'Oro, where the link from Hôtel Monte d'Oro is coming up. It would have been a 360 degrees view from the top of Monte d'Oro now. The trail goes into the forest again. Above the trees, green and rolling hills lies in contrast to the clear blue sky.

A clearing by the path coming up from Hôtel Monte d'Oro, a great view over the mountain that bears the same name as the hotel.

A sunny day on the way to E Capanelle.

The path is going upwards, but it is easy to walk on. The sun is shining through the trees; it's a pleasant walk through the woods up towards Bocca Palmentu. And it doesn't get any worse when I come up to the pass. From here the mountainsides goes downwards and over green valley sides, and in the end down to the sea. Back where I came from lies Vizzavona hidden in the valley, while Monte d'Oro stands just as solid as before. It's a beautiful day and I spend some time together with Lisa and Madeleine at the pass, at 1640m.

From Bocca Palmentu the path goes down and pays a visit to the woods again. A large group of walkers are going in a queue up towards me, coming from the opposite direction. Bergeries d'Alzeta lies peacefully beneath a big birch tree, the doorframes and window sills painted red. It's peaceful on the trail ahead as well, this must be one of the most pleasant and nice forest walks along the GR20.

Bocca Palmentu, 1640m.

At Crête de Cardu, there is a nice place in the shade from a lonely pine tree with a great view in the direction of the sea. I eat the last piece of the good sausage I bought at Haut Asco, it's become a little while since I was there now. Above Valle Longa lies Monte Renosu, which now has taken the place of Monte d'Oro. Clouds are starting to form out by the coast.

Bergeries d'Alzeta. A peaceful place under a big birch tree.

The path going alongside Crête d'Oculu.

Small river creeks are coming down from the mountains, almost empty of water. Another peaceful bergerie is appearing, Scarpacceghje. I'm getting close to the end of today's walk; the trail is suddenly going steeper upwards through the trees. And then I can say hello to civilization again, standing on a road. And another place located next to a ski station.

I still don't feel that I've got complete rid of the cold, so I decide to sleep under a roof this night as well. Me and the two Norwegian girls has gone past each other all the time here to the Gîte d'Ètappe U Fugone. I walk faster than them, but I have a nasty habit of stopping a lot to take pictures. While enjoying a cold Pietra at the terrace outside the auberge I can on one side see the sea, while on the other side I can see the not so nice parts of the ski station.

View towards the sea on my way towards Crête du Cardu and E Capanelle.

There is no one in the PRNC cabin, which lies a little bit to itself outside of the camping area; I could probably get it for myself and for half the usual price. It looks a little bit pitiful though. The sun is disappearing behind Monte Renosu, some clouds drifts slowly over the landscape. I eat dinner at the gîte together with Lisa and Madeleine.

It's said that the northern part of GR20 is more beautiful than the southern part, but if the route between Vizzavona and E Capanelle is descriptive of the southern part of the GR20, then it doesn't stand much behind in terms of beauty. It was a great walk from Vizzavona. However, the stage was less demanding than most of the stages on the northern part. Satisfied, I go to sleep inside the gîte, "don't let the bedbugs bite!"

Crête du Cardu with its lonely pine tree.

<- Monte d'OroPrati ->

GR20 // day 13 // Monte d'Oro

Distance: 17km, altitude at start: 920m, altitude at end: 920m, highest point: 2389m.

Yet another summit bid is the plan for the day, after hearing about the great view Matthew, Andrew and Paul told me about. It's a clear sky outside. You can't see the summit from Vizzavona, but it's up there waiting for me.

The path between the woods just above Vizzavona starts to feel familiar now, for a short while. Then there is a sign pointing the way up towards the top and the Bergerie de Puzzatelli and I'm lured away from the known paths. The path upwards alternates between a small trail and tractor tracks through the woods. Through small gaps between the trees I can look down at the railway station and Hôtel I Lariccia. On the other side of the valley the GR20 south lies beckoning.

Vizzavona seen from above, on my way up towards Monte d'Oro through the forest. Hôtel I Lariccia to the left in the picture.

I'm drifting up by the mountainside through the forest, in a race against the clouds. The clear sky is on the wane; from the east the weather gods are leading a massive cloud attack. The ruins of the Bergerie de Puzzatelli emerge from a clearing in the woods, overgrown. Above, the mist is sealing the peaks inside the clouds. A small slice of blue in the clouds gives me a little hope. Below the valley has disappeared in the clouds. A plane long away sounds like thunder.

Clouds drifting up the mountain, just like me, on my way up La Scala.

Above me lies the steep ascent of La Scala. There is something in me asking why I don't turn back. The odds of seeing anything at the summit can't be said to be very good at the moment. The truth is, well, that I'm quite stubborn. Above La Scala I come up to a windswept little meadow, a lonely little sign marked with 'Source' seems oddly out of time. The clouds are drifting through the grass; the trail disappears up into the grey sea. I stop for a rest and enjoy the view, which doesn't exist. The wind is sour.

A windswept meadow, with a sign for a water source nearby. Mist hides the peak above.

And then I also disappear into the layers of clouds, along with the trail. Follows the yellow waymarks upwards and upwards, it's much steeper now. After a while it's so steep that it starts to be clear to me that I've started on the last climb up to the summit of Monte d'Oro. The climb up is quite simple. I come up deep inside the ocean of fog, a grey sea as far as you can see (which is of course not far at all).

The summit of Monte d'Oro enclosed in the clouds. A grey sea on all sides.

Admiring, I can conclude that me and Monte d'Oro are besieged on all sides by the clouds. The wind is now quite sour and it's a little bit cold. It was good that I lured myself to hike up here I think and smiles to the weather gods. At least I've been to the summit (although I can't be too sure because of the fog, I'm pretty confident that it is). Making my way down again, I take one last look up towards the summit after coming down from the part you need to climb. The grey layer has a small tint of blue.

A revelation appears when the layers of clouds open up and the contours of the landscape behind emerge.

I climb up again. And takes a deep breath. It's still grey all around. I sit down on a rock to relax a little bit. And then the layers of clouds open up. Slowly, very slowly, but surely contours appears from behind the mist and the landscape that has been hidden from me appears through the clouds. Like a revelation. It almost cannot be more beautiful than where I'm standing and seeing the valleys, woods and the mountainsides to the north of the summit appear beneath me. Spots of blue sky emerge, peaks stretches to the heavens in the horizon. It is an indescribable feeling standing there watching.

View from Monte d'Oro.

To the south however, are the clouds still just as dense as before. I'm at a divide in my little world at the moment. I have to make a choice after climbing down from the summit again. Either I go back to Vizzavona from where I went up from, or go over to Bocca Murratello and then follow the GR20 again back to Vizzavona. I opt for the latter choice, even though I have to go through the Cascades des Anglais for the third time.

The clouds lie like ocean waves against the ridge beneath the summit.

From here the trail goes on the south side of the ridge and that means that I'm again more exposed to the clouds, they come like waves against the mountainside. The fog makes it hard to find the yellow markers at some point; some of them appear just like the moss on the rocks. Any trail isn't possible to spot between the stones. However, I choose the correct way and emerge again on the top of the ridge with a great view down towards l'Onda and further towards Petra Piana.

View from d'Oro down towards the little meadow I passed on my way up.

Bocca di Porco.

When I'm back at the GR20 again, I can see the summit of Monte d'Oro almost clear of clouds at the top. Wanderers appear again. Down by the Cascades des Anglais everything is like before. I was thinking maybe to start on the southern part after returning from Monte d'Oro, but I feel the time has run out on me. E Capanelle and the GR20 south will have to wait to tomorrow. So, I check back in at the hotel, this time I receive a blue key. It's quiet in Vizzavona in the evening. It's omelet as a starter at the dinner again.

I go to bed after having a magnificent hike behind me. For many it probably would have been better with a clear sky at the top, but for me the revelation I got was fantastic. And just let us call it that, a revelation, without making it religious of any kind.

View from Bocca di Porco down towards Refuge de l'Onda and further on towards Refuge de Petra Piana. Further behind Paglia Orba and Monte Cinto lies towering in the horizon.

<- VizzavonaE Capanelle ->

GR20 // day 12 // Vizzavona

Day of rest and no particular plans, so I sleep late. Somewhere in the back of my head there is a small thought of going up to Monte d'Oro and back to l'Onda again, I leave the thought alone.

The Hôtel I Laricci in Vizzavona.

It's quiet outside, as opposed to yesterday evening. I decide to go for a leisurely walk up to the Cascades des Anglais. The ponds and the waterfalls are still there. Corsican fairies are still trying to seduce me out into the water, but I'm not lured out into the water today either. The night in a good and warm bed did me good, but the cold hasn't quite let go yet.

Cascades des Anglais.

I'm more relaxed now and enjoy the view of the river more than yesterday. On the way upwards I pass several other walkers on their way from l'Onda. The sun twinkles in the clear water. I go almost up as far as the bridge that goes over the river that runs through the Cascades des Anglais, l'Agnone Ruisseau. I still wonder where the Bergeries de Porteto is, I couldn't find it yesterday either.

Waterfall in the Cascades des Anglais with Punta del Ceppo in the background.

I repeat myself and take another beer and something to eat at the bar by the bottom of the waterfalls. It's many people here today also. Afterwards I take the forest road that goes towards Hôtel Monte d'Oro. There is some sort of a parkour park besides the road, a group is on their way up into one of the routes. The hotel is a cozy building almost entwined with plants, which almost gives it a kind of haunted house look.

The waterfalls haven't got their name just by being a waterfall.

Vizzavona is sort of the midpoint between the north and the south; it's also a hub between several buses and the train that slowly goes by between Ajaccio and Bastia. A little bit of a weird place actually. A lot of houses looks like they've been abandoned, possible a place where people has a summerhouse of a sort.

Hôtel Monte d'Oro.

In the evening I meet again Matthew, Andrew and Paul, the tree boys from England I'd met earlier. They told me that their last two nights had been quite intense. Paul had woken up in the middle of the night by a tent landing on top of his own tent. Heavy wind and a lot of rain had made the nights strenuous for the people at Petra Piana and l'Onda. It has later come to my ear that there was one guy that had been thrown around with his tent at Petra Piana, just close by a cliff. At the bottom of the cliff were a lot of tents that had blown over the edge during the night.

The ruins of the Grand Hôtel de la Forêt.

The English boys had taken the path that goes over Monte d'Oro and had a fantastic view from the summit. I start to regret that I didn't do it. Going to bed in the evening I decide to change my plan, I will make my path up to 1469 meters above Vizzavona tomorrow.

<- VizzavonaMonte d'Oro ->

GR20 // day 11 // l'Onda - Vizzavona

Distance: 11km, altitude at start: 1431m, altitude at end: 920m, highest point: 2100m.

I wake up in the middle of the night that it's blowing heavily outside. Voices in the dark outside. People are apparently out to secure their tents better. I can hear a tent that has been taken by the wind flying by the other tents outside at high speed. My tent stands rock solid. I creep back into the sleeping bag, more worried about the cold than by the wind.

There is a lot of activity in the camp in the morning. The tents that have played dragons in the wind during the night are all gathered together down by one of the fences, all of the type that you can rent at the refuge. No one rented these this night anyway. The wind is quieter now in the morning hours, but it's still blowing quite a lot.

Up towards Bocca Muratello from Refuge de l'Onda.

Then my day is blown away, but not by the wind. But by my camera, which appears quite dead. I'm in a little bit of shock actually. Words can't describe what I feel, to me taking pictures while I'm out and walking is a way of process immediate memories. Whatever I do, I can't get the camera to life. It's quite clear that it's the battery that is the cause, I can only guess at the reason. I fear the worst. That the battery is broken, but I hope that it's only gone flat during the night (though it was almost fully charged yesterday evening).

Memorial of an alpinist that died trying to do the GR20 on skis in April for a couple of years ago. He disappeared in the gorge above Refuge de l'Onda, together with his dog.

I'm so frustrated when I leave the Bergeries de l'Onda that I start out at a very high pace; I need to walk my frustration out of my body. And doing so, walking all too fast pass the magnificent landscape that is being revealed on the ridge above the cabin. It's significantly more wind up on the ridge, giving me some few additional lifts on the way upwards. Below goes the valley down towards Bergeries de Tolla, which is hidden behind the trees far down below from here. Behind me some wanderers are going over 'le crêtes' towards Petra Piana.

Further up I pass a memorial for an alpinist that died here for a couple of years ago, when he tried to do the GR20 on skis during winter. Which is sad, but it's kind of sadder to hear that he took his dog with him in death. The wind lifts me the last meters and I come up to Bocca Muratello where the sun is awaiting me with its warm light.

View back towards Petra Piana and the mountains behind, the path over 'le crêtes' visible on the ridge.

My mood is a little better when I'm up at the pass and can look out over the valley that leads down to Vizzavona, and halfway on the GR20. The sun is also helping, and after all, it's not the end of the world. But, still, it's an abstract shadow in front of today's great weather. Instead, I use my cellular phone to take some pictures, but that camera isn't very good.

Monte d'Oro is now even mightier above me to the east of me and the other wanderers gathered here at the pass. And it is then I hear someone saying 'it was you' behind me, 'it was you that sat outside our tent last night and talked about the stars'. I turn around and find myself looking into the smiling face of a girl (from Netherland) that I've got to know a little bit earlier on the GR20. After yesterday's evening consisting of a little bit more beer and wine than planned, I ended up sitting outside with two others and a bottle of wine, and apparently talking a lot about the stars.

The ridge up towards Monte d'Oro, with the summit above. I let go of my original plan of going to the top. Kind of stupid, the view would have been great.

I start walking down towards the valley a little bit happier at heart, but I drop my original plan of going to the top of Monte d'Oro. Something in me wants to get down fast to check if it's just the battery that is flat. I receive a lot of compassion from other wanderers on the way down. The mountains on each side of me just look down at me with no emotion at all. The path is now going back and forth down in the valley. Trees are getting closer and closer before I can see leaves above in addition to the blue sky.

Looking back up at Bocca Muratello.

A river emerges between white and grey stones; I'm at the start of the Cascades des Anglais. It's quite tempting to take a bath, but I seems to a have caught a cold, however a small one. That I'm not far from Vizzavona is confirmed by the number of tourists beside the river. The English waterfalls is a common tourist attraction, it's not hard to see why.

The valley down towards Vizzavona, steep down towards the little village that separates the northern and southern parts of the GR20.

Mountainsides on all sides in the valley.

I stop for a beer and something to eat at the bar that lies at the bottom of the waterfalls. It's now just one hour left of walking before I will be at Vizzavona and the end of the northern part of the GR20. The last part takes me through the woods before my feet touches asphalt yet again.

And then I'm going into Vizzavona, I can see the sign for the GR20 north and south. The road leads down to the railway station. I pass by a large and majestic building that lies in ruins, with trees growing in the windows. There is a camping area for wanderers next to the railway station. But I haven't planned to sleep in a tent now, due to the cold I've caught. Instead I treat myself to a room at the Hôtel I Laricci. That is, the first thing I do is to check if I'm able to charge the camera battery.

Cascades des Anglais with Punta del Ceppo in the background.

The relief is indescribably when I see the charger status on the display of my camera turn to life. I Lariccia is a charming little hotel with squeaking floors, each floor has its own color. Blue in the first floor, red in the second floor, I receive a red key. First hot shower since Haut Asco.

Refreshed and with my mood back, I go to take a closer look at the dilapidated building. The ruins is the former Grand Hôtel de la Forêt, not much left of the splendor of old times. I go down to a bar next to the railway station where I meet up with some wanderers I've met on the way, the beer tastes real good. I get news that one of the Englishmen that I've met on the GR20 came down to Vizzavona with a nasty cough and has decided to go to Corte to see a doctor. His tent was flooded with water during the period of heavy rain earlier; apparently he's never quite recovered from that.

The ruins of the former Grand Hôtel de la Forêt. Nothing much that reminds about old glory now.

I almost feel like I'm a veteran from a typical American war movie where I'm sitting by the bar, sitting and watching as a party of new arrivals of walkers is getting off a bus. Know that many of them probably are thinking, 'and now what?'

The railway station in Vizzavona, clouds are covering the mountains above. On the way to Calvi I stepped out of the train here and took and look around. In my mind was the thought that I in a couple of days I would be coming down from the mountains and come here. Now I'm here.

I eat dinner at the hotel, which is included in the price. In the evening it starts to rain, quite a lot. I'm happy to sleep inside now in a good bed, and not outside in the tent. I've finished the northern part of the GR20, and quite satisfied with that. Tomorrow I'm having a rest day, my body needs that. Mysterious lights in the hillside above the hotel.

<- l'OndaVizzavona ->

GR20 // day 10 // Petra Piana - l'Onda

Distance: 11km, altitude at start: 1842m, altitude at end: 1431m, highest point: 1842m.

I come down from Monte Ritondu in bright sunshine, still high after the climb to the summit. At Petra Piana the wanderers from yesterday has been replaced with new ones. After a break in the sun I take down the tent and pack together my backpack. From Petra Piana I have two choices to choose from, 'Par la vallée' or 'Par les crêtes'. 'Par les crêtes' will take me over the ridge to Refuge de l'Onda and is the high-level variant, this path beckon with a great view from the ridge, in addition to being faster.

On the way down from Petra Piana. The path goes down towards the valley and through the woods before it goes upwards again to Refuge de l'Onda.

'Par la vallée' however goes down in the woods in the valley below the ridge, but is also the original route of the GR20. I choose to go down in the valley. From Monte Ritondu I've already seen most of the view that is available, so a walk along a river through a pleasant forest is more tempting.

A GR-marker almost overgrown.

And by doing so I adds yet some height meters to what I've already has gained by going down from Monte Ritondu, and I can with safety say that it is steep down as well. Its nice then that in some parts the path is build up by a nice fence made of stone on one side. I walk past Bergeries de Gialgi; some other hikers are passing by in the opposite direction. Down in the valley I can look up towards Petra Piana high above, but the cabin and the campsite is hidden for my eyes.

The path going down to the valley, it looks like a stone fence has been built by the side of it.

I'm walking past ruins of old stone huts, their demise frozen in the tracks of times past. Ruisseau de Manganellu is running in twists and turns down the valley at my right side, trees increases in scale and size. Soon the forest is all around me, a peaceful and relaxing walk. The time flows silently through the sunrays among the trees.

View back up towards Petra Piana, now hidden from sight.

Green pools beckons from the river. And finally, there is no way around it. I have to get into the water. The water is cold, but refreshing. Afterwards I sit on the rocks and warms up in the sun. Above me the wind is blowing almost soundlessly through the leaves.

Bathing in the Ruisseau de Manganellu. The river with its green and beckoning pools was too tempting.

Through the forest on my way to Bergeries de Tolla.

I arrive at the Bergeries de Tolla. There are autumn colors on the ground, two horses grazes free outside the cabin. It is a tranquil little place, but there are probably more people here during the summer. It is a good time to take a break; I buy myself a cold Pietra and eat some food. The horses position themselves just outside the gate and are looking in anticipation at me, they are probably hungry they as well.

Two horses in a pasture outside a small summer farm. Autumn colors on the ground.

Towards Refuge de l'Onda it goes upwards again. Here the forest are denser, making it look gloomier than it is. The trail is turning towards the mountains again. I walk clear off the woods and arrive at the fenced camping area at Bergeries de l'Onda. Here it is both an auberge and a refuge; the cabin itself lies a little bit above the camping area and the auberge. When the whole herd of goats comes down from the mountain you understand why there is a fence around the camping area.

Bergeries de Tolla, where you can buy typical Corsican food, like chees and sausage.

I eat dinner at the auberge. They serve soup as a starter, mutton as primary dish, and then cheese and fruit as dessert. One of the best dinners so far. It gets quite cheery around the table during the dinner. I haven't seen Matthew, Andrew and Paul, the three boys from England I've met, after I've came to l'Onda. So during the dinner I start to wonder if something has happened, they should have arrived. Later I get to know that they choose to stay back at Petra Piana in the great weather.

Gloomy through the forest on the way to Refuge de l'Onda.

A great day goes towards the end, and the longest day on the journey so far. I have a vague memory of a starry sky when I go to bed inside my tent.

The camping area at Refuge de l'Onda, goats surrounding the area.

<- Monte RitonduVizzavona ->

GR20 // day 10 // Monte Ritondu

Distance: 6km, altitude at start: 1842m, altitude at end: 1842m, highest point: 2622m.

Over Petra Piana lies Monte Ritondu, the second highest mountain on Corsica. Even so, you cannot see the summit from the cabin. The areas around the mountain are of old said to be places with lots of bandits. Me, I'm going to the top to steal some view.

A field of grass on the way up to Monte Ritondu from Petra Piana.

After a breakfast consisting of tea and some really sweet slices of white bread with jam I leave the tent standing and start going from the cabin with only my little day pack on my back. As before the weather is nice at the start of the day. It's going up that matters and it doesn't take long time before you can look down at Petra Piana from a bird's eye-view. The camping area has a lot less tents now.

The cairns bring me up to a little pass. At the pass, I can finally look up to the summit of Monte Ritondu. A grey wall of stone that I have to ascend. Behind me I can see the ridge that the alpine variant to Refuge de l'Onda from Petra Piana goes over.

Lavu Bellebone.

I arrive at a lake with Ritondu reflecting in the surface, Lavu Bellebone. This water is frozen most of the year due to its location at 2321m. It's a fitting place for a break before I start on the last steep climb up towards the top.

View from Monte Ritondu. Paglia Orba towering to the left in the picture, Monte Cinto towering to the right closer to the center of the picture.

The path goes over scree and larger stones up towards Col du Fer de Lance. Lavu Bellebone lays left cold below me, on the other side of the water a large herd of goats are walking. Further on the path consists of more climbing than before. Nearly at the top, only some large boulders over me, I arrive at a small shelter that has been built at the top. Inside it's empty, and chilly.

Lavu Bellebone lies blue and cold beneath the summit.

The path is twisting around the top again before the last part is overcome by some easy climbing. Then I'm standing at the top of Corsica again, at 2622 meters. I'm at the top so early that the clouds haven't had the time to get here to hide the view, which is just great. To the north Paglia Orba and Monte Cinto is towering, it's a little hard to believe that you will look down at me from Monte Cinto. Far to the east I can see Corte with its characteristic castle at the top.

At the summit of Monte Ritondu, 2622m.

At the Bergeries de Vallone I got to know three boys from England and they've also hiked to the top. We stay at the summit for a time and enjoy the moment. Like me they've planned to go to Refuge de l'Onda afterwards.

On the way down again the herd of goats has had the time to walk to the spire that has the name Col du Fer de Lance. They stare stupidly at me when I'm coming climbing down from one of the ridges beneath the top. The sun is higher in the sky now when I'm on the way down and then lit up more of the surrounding countryside than on the way up.

A bird's eye-view of Refuge de Petra Piana.

Down by Petra Piana, people have already arrived from either Manganu or Onda. I shake my head a little bit; it really is some who stresses a lot to come as quickly as possible to the next place. The hike up to Monte Ritondu is maybe the finest summit bid so far, being the first time I could look uninterrupted out over Corsica with no clouds blocking the view.

<- Petra Pianal'Onda ->