Camino Portugués // day 19 // Praia do Muiño - Mougás

Camino Portugués, day 19.
Distance: 27.7km (536.6km), time spent: 10:15.
Weather: Sunny, some showers, then sunny.

To get over to Spain, the pilgrims has to go by boat. Or they could walk a long distance, following the river and cross over a bridge further up, and then walk down again on the other side. From Caminha there is a public ferry, but when I asked at what time it left in the morning, I found it to be a little too late for my liking. Instead, I asked the hospitalero at the albergue to book a private boat for me and June.

In Spain after leaving Portugal on a private boat across the Rio Miño.

In the morning, the local fisherman is waiting outside the albergue for me and June, and then drives us to a small jetty outside Caminha. There in the light of dawn we board a little wooden boat that will take us over to Spain, leaving Portugal. It is a beautiful morning, behind us lies Portugal and for me the approximately 500k that I have walked through it. We are actually crossing into Spain on a small boat, it has the tiny bit of feeling like we are entering it illegally. The fisherman puts us off on the Praia do Muiño, we are now officially in Spain. He also has his own sello, that he stamps in our pilgrim passports.

At the Praia do Muiño in Spain, with the Forte da Ínsua at the back.

From the beach, we have to go a little back alongside the Rio Miño to get back to our familiar yellow arrows, but as it is next to the beach it is a nice walk. The public ferry goes to A Pasaxe and it is from there that we pick up our Camino again, now with the familiar milestones next to the path.

Woodland path to A Guarda.

It is when we are walking upwards that it dawns upon us, that we have made one stupid error. Or rather I have. When I booked the boat yesterday, I did not take into account that Spain operates with another timezone than Portugal, even though we are on the same longitude. When we set foot in Spain, we lost one hour, or in other words we have to set the clock one hour forward. Now, we have less time than we thought we had to reach our planned destination.

One of the reconstructed Castro-Roman houses at Castro de Santa Trega, Portugal on the other side of the river.

Castro de Santa Trega.

If we were only going to Mougas, the time would not have been an issue. There are however other issues at stake, my curiosity for instance. Reaching A Guarda, we set about finding first a place where I can leave my backpack, then the starting point of the path up to Monte de Santa Tecla. A kind hotel is letting my leave my backpack there while we go on a micro adventure up to the ancient Galician fort and archaeological site at the top of the small mountain. The path leading up to it is close by the hotel.

At Monte de Santa Tecla.

Dark clouds in the horizon from the Monte de Santa Tecla.

The Camino from A Pasaxe to A Guarda went through a lovely forest, but the path should really go over this hill. Nevermind the associated climb, the rewards for the pilgrims would be great. Situated at the top is the Castro de Santa Trega (the hill is both referenced to as Monte de Santa Trega and Monte de Santa Tecla), this is an old iron age hill fort. Of the excavated buildings and houses only the circular stone foundations are left, forming a large field of concentric circles standing next to each other. It is a quite weird, but very cool, sight. There are some few whole buildings left at the site, round with thatched roofs, but they are reconstructions and not the original houses.

View back towards Portugal from Monte de Santa Tecla, Caminha to the right.

Viacrucis do Monte Santa Trega.

Further up, at the top of the hill, there are several sights worth seeing. From the old hill fort a line of crosses called the Viacrucis do Monte Santa Trega leads up to the top. There is a chapel (Calvario de Santa Tegra), a hermitage (Ermida de Santa Trega) and a museum (Museo Arqueolóxico Monte Santa Trega) here. Not forgetting great views from several viewpoints. One thing the nice view tells us, is that there is a rain approaching, coming from the North. Even when we are on the top, we can feel the first raindrops falling from the sky. We take a final look at Portugal, then walk down again, looking at the rain falling down on the opposite hills.

Street art in A Guarda.

Down in A Guarda it starts to rain. No rain during my whole walk through Portugal, and then I get rain almost as soon as I enter Spain. Quite funny. Then a pleasant surprise awaits me. Further down the street we are walking down, I can see Joan and Paige. I am so happy to see them, unsure if I would actually meet them again. Since it is raining and we are having a tiny reunion, it is the perfect time for lunch. We find a cosy restaurant, La Casa de la Abuela, for a good meal. When we leave, it has stopped raining.

Leaving A Guarda.

The coastal Camino from A Guarda, looking back at Monte de Santa Tecla and A Guarda.

From A Guarda it is back to the coast again, the Spanish coast this time. The difference from Portugal is that the hills here feels more significant, more rough. And the first part of the coastal Camino here goes more on a footpath than on esplanades or boardwalk (not that I did not enjoy the boardwalks). The wind is buffeting us a little, behind us we can see Monte de Santa Trega with the dark rainy clouds still hanging over it. Blue sky all over near future for us.

Walk between burned trees.

Autumn has arrived, ever so gently, with the grass turning a crispy brown. Natural rock fences are lined up next to the path. We pass by a shellfish nursery, called cetárea. On the hillsides there are signs of a forest fire. Twisted grey skeletons of trees, we also see them down here next to the path. We have both enjoyed every step since we left A Guarda.

Paige and Joan having a rest.

Atlantic ocean views.

Hard surface does not elude us totally, unfortunately. The Camino does leave the coast to test our feet on asphalt from time to time, but thankfully the shoulder of the road is quite wide, and the sea is never far away. We pass by Joan and Paige, sitting leisurely underneath some trees. They look like they are really having a good time. Today, they are going to Oia, which we arrive at after more lovely walking on the coast. Oia is dominated by the Santa María de Oia monastery, from the 12th century, but is actually a pleasant small village next to the sea. Quite busy with people too. We only stop for a refreshment at a local café, feel we owe that to the place, but we do not have time to visit the monastery. The clock has passed six in the afternoon when we leave.

A motorcycle and the monastery in Oia.

Boats in the sea outside Oia.

From Oia, the walk goes mainly on paths next to the sea again. Time is ticking and it will get quite late when we will arrive in Mougás, so we hasten a little. Forgetting that we still have time before the sun goes down, as we have set the clock one hour back. Before the last walk into Mougás, the Camino crosses the road and takes a short inland turn. When we arrive at the Aguncheiro Albergue under the final light from the sun, the clock will soon strike eight.

Mosteiro de Santa María de Oia.

Arriving in Mougás.

Another wonderful walk, the coastal Camino has delivered everything that it promised, but we are tired when we arrive. I think this may be the day that I have felt most tired after on the Camino Portugués. June and I share a big and nice apartment here, it was bigger than we thought it would be, so it is good space for both of us. Elisa from Italy, whom we met yesterday, is also here. We eat dinner and just return to our apartment to rest.

Red sky over Mougás in the evening.

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Camino Portugués // day 18 // Viana do Castelo - Caminha

Camino Portugués, day 18.
Distance: 27.0km (508.9km), time spent: 8:12.
Weather: Still sunny.

In the morning I meet up with June, Klaus and Tulle to get up to the basilica. We decide to share a taxi up, instead of taking the funicular. Almost perfectly timed, the sun has just risen above the hills to the southeast. From the west waves of clouds are coming rolling in from the sea, seeping towards Viana do Castelo, absorbing everything it passes. Only tall cranes and towering windmills reaches above the clouds. The Atlantic is barely visible, but outside the magnificent Basílica de Santa Luzia we are above the clouds.

Sunset over Viana do Castelo from Monte de Santa Luzia.

Inside, the basilica is large and open, and benefits from the three large rose-windows, providing illumination through the painted glass. A large chandelier hangs from the top of the dome. Beautiful on the inside as it was on the outside. I am glad I got the chance to see it from the inside. I had already eaten some breakfast, but June had brought with her some pastries and light breakfast that she shares with us. Basking in the morning sun outside the basilica, it is a perfect way to start the day.

Inside Basílica de Santa Luzia.

June and I are however not finished with the basilica yet. While Klaus and Tulle decides to go down again, June and I wants to go up. The entrance to the dome has just opened and we take the elevator and then some very narrow stairs up to the top (there is a traffic light here telling you if you can go down or up). The views are even better from up here, with the clouds now hiding the coast to the south from our eyes. I spot a ruin of what might have been a stately mansion, not far away from the Pousada. There is another elevator too, taking you up to a platform lower down than the dome, but now we find it is time to get down and continue our Camino.

View through the pillars from the top of the dome of Basílica de Santa Luzia.

Fog from the ocean comes rolling in over Viana do Castelo.

The host at my pension had told me that I should be following a path next to the coast instead. That route might be the official Camino in the future, but I feel obliged to follow the current official route. From Viana do Castelo, the Camino stick to the plan of walking some distance away from the coast, although visible most of the time. It is a little bit tedious finding the way out of the city. I believe both June, Klaus and Tulle are in front of me when I finally gets on the way.

June walking down the narrow staircase of the dome.

As the Monte de Santa Luzia with its sanctuary disappears on the top of the hill above me, the Camino passes through an almost endless line of narrow paths between stonewalls. It seems like the theme for the day. I eventually overtake June. Another theme of the day are the multiple groups of pilgrims on bikes that races past us, some of the groups are quite large too.

Faded wallpainting, from the walk out of Viana do Castelo.

Cat in a flowerpot.

I cannot help thinking 'typical Danes' when June and I catch up with Klaus and Tulle again. In the middle of a scenic woodland path filled with late Autumn colors, we find them sitting down, each holding a stemmed glass containing beer. They really know how to enjoy themselves on the Camino, they are only walking a part of it though.

At Casa do Sardão, from left Tara, me, June and Sang Hee (in her ohenro outfit).

There is an air of forgetfulness over the Camino today, with places and paths appearing to be embraced by nature, slightly retaken. Definitely with the 17th century Quinta de Cabanas, with vines creeping upwards on the clocktower. A plaque informs that there has been an old monastery here. Why is it always so quiet around places like this? Might even be eerie here in fog or in the dark. After the Ponte de Cabanas, the Camino heads slightly uphill past a ruined house with various graffiti inside. I cannot help going into it.

Autumn forest path.

Both Sang Hee and Tara decided to stop for the day at the Casa do Sardão albergue. From one of the hosts at that place we learn the reason why he have met so many groups of pilgrims on bikes. Today is a national holiday. There might be a problem getting a place to sleep actually. Both June and Klaus and Tulle has booked their places for the night. We run a quick check on bookable accommodations, none are available. I have to rely on that there will be an available bed at the albergue in Caminha. Otherwise, I have to consider continuing to A Guarda (my original planned destination).

Klaus and Tulle enjoying a cup of beer on a forest path.

In Vila Praia de Ãncora, June, Klaus, Tulle and I sit down for lunch. We all arrived at slightly different times, due to June and I went to see the Dolmen de Barrosa, a megalithic tomb from around 3000bc. You can walk inside the old stone structure, located on a grassy meadow in a clearing between trees. The final walk into the small town was not very interesting, but the walk to it after the old Quinta de Cabanas had been nice.

Today the Camino went past several narrow cobbled lanes with old walls.

I feel the pressure of getting a bed at the albergue on me and decides to hurry ahead of June, Klaus and Tulle. It is too bad, for the walk is one of the best of the day so far. Passing by the Forte de Lagarteira, the Camino finally goes next to the sea again. Close to the path are several sculptures sort of like sun lights, designed to catch the sun in them and frame the light in various colors. However, there is a fly in the ointment, as I walk past one of the pilgrims on bike that has had an accident and fallen badly. The other people in the group are in the process of aiding him, so I hope everything goes well.

A forgotten house.

The walk is lovely, with the Monte de Santa Tecla that is in Spain coming closer for each step. Slowly there is another revelation that is creeping into my mind, this will actually be my last day in Portugal, tomorrow I will enter Spain. The last stretch before Caminha is not that special, having left the coast at Moledo do Minho.

Quinta de Cabanas.

I reach the albergue in time, outside are one group of bike pilgrims sitting and waiting. They have to wait to 18 o'clock before they can request a bed. They appear to be the same group that the unfortunate biker belonged to, so I inquire about the one that got in the accident, they say that he is in the hospital, but it appear that he will be fine. Which is good news.

Rio Ãncora.

Dolmen de Barrosa.

Finished with the chores at the albergue, I return to the centre of Caminha, where I go straight to the waterfront. The sunset over the Rio Minho is wonderful. I am still surprised of how much the colors change when the sun are entering its final minutes of the day. Out there lies the old fort, Forte da Ínsua dating from the 17th century.

Sunframes.

Esplanade towards Caminha after Vila Praia de Ãncora, with Monte de Santa Tecla at the back. Spain is approaching.

After getting warm by the sunset, taking a rest is long overdue, I have been too busy the last hours. At a café in the Praça Conselheiro Silva Torres I meet the German girls again and sit down for a beer with them (it takes ages to get the beer though). June arrives, not very happy with her accommodation.

Torre do Religio in Caminha.

Together with Klaus and Tulle we go to the Solar do Pescado for dinner. The Danes has rented an apartment on AirBnb and are overly satisfied where they are staying, we get to take a look at it too and it is really nice. So is the dinner at the restaurant. Although a fish restaurant, I opt for meat this time. June and I has enjoyed our time together with Klaus and Tulle, but this will be the last night together. Klaus has got some really bad blisters on his feet, so it is uncertain of how much more walking he can do, and they will also not follow us into Spain. They are heading towards Valença. Good thing that it was a nice last evening.

Sunset in Caminha.

Last day in Portugal, tomorrow I will be in Spain.

Praça Conselheiro Silva Torres, Caminha.

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Camino Portugués // day 17 // Esposende - Viana do Castelo

Camino Portugués, day 17.
Distance: 28.0km (481.9km), time spent: 7:43.
Weather: Another sunny day.

Breakfast is included in the price, but we should have asked to get it at an earlier time, as the German girls did. Reason for my eagerness to get an early start is that I want to get early to Viana do Castelo. Another city that based on what I have read and heard about it, warrants an extra day. That I will not do, so I hope to arrive there early instead, giving me time to explore what I want to see.

Leaving Esposende walking past the Forte de São João Batista.

June walks with me from the beginning, or I walk with her depending on how you see it. Walking through the streets we find an iphone lost on the pavement. First snag of the day. What do we do? Not many people around and we are not exactly fluent in Portuguese. I first try at what looks like a hospital or a home for the elderly, but although they appear helpful, I get no way. Fortunately we meet a woman afterwards that speaks enough English and promises to deliver the lost iphone to the police. Which we eventually must have done too, just do not know where it is.

Somehow I never get tired of the wonderful tiles in Portugal.

Although this is the coastal route, the Camino does not go next to the sea today. The only exception is the walk out of Esposende on the esplanade towards Forte de São João Batista. There are some confusing waymarks after the fortress leading into a forest, but my guidebook and other waymarks points in another direction. I yearn for the woods, but decides for the roads. The confusing waymarks appear to be a shortcut.

The entrance and path up to the Santuário de Guia.

Santuário de Guia.

The Albergue São Miguel in Marinhas, where I originally had planned to go to yesterday, seems nice. The Camino now follow roads through villages and rural areas and can at best be described as pleasant, even peaceful. There is not much traffic on the small roads we walk on, and June is also a pleasant walking companion. She on the other hand, has to endure listening to my endless talks about how much I want to climb up into the hills we see above us.

View towards Viana do Castelo (the Basílica de Santa Luzia visible) from the cliffs above Santuário de Guia.

June then gets to experience the outcome of all my exploration urges, witnessing the curious part of me. As I have said, I have been looking up at the hills above almost all the way, but when we arrive in Belinho, my curious eyes spot a chapel and more higher up. Second snag of the day. I argue hardly against myself, but I know that I will lose the argument and have to get up there. Next to the Igrje Paroquial is the town hall (Junta da Freguesia de Belinho), the woman working there lets me leave my backpack there while I go up. I only have to be back down again before she closes, but I should have enough time. She also gives me directions on how to get there. As I have been babbling away all the time that I want to go up into the hills, I send June a text with 'Going up', which I hope should be sufficient to let her know that I have gone up.

Statues and idols at Santuário de Guia.

What I have seen up there is the Santuário de Guia and the path leading up to it is great. Reminiscent of the stairs leading up to some of the temples in Shikoku in Japan. A long staircase of stone leads up to the sanctuary. Idols, small statues and crosses are passed by on the way up. At the end there is a terrace of stone with nice views over the hills, ocean and past and future walk. I would have liked to see the inside of the chapel, but it is closed. Further up there are some cliffs with a cross that has even better views of the surroundings. And all over are more small statues and idols. To me this was a wonderful sort of Christian representation of some of the temples high up on Shikoku. Sometimes my curiosity really pays off. June is of course long gone when I am back down again.

A local collection of statues.

Afterwards, the Camino enters a pleasant woodland path, passing by a monument (the Antas-Esposende Camino stone monument) from where it is not apparent where you should continue. This short wonderful walk poses new challenges to my curiosity as I see a cross and statue on the rocky hilltop above me. There is a short influx of pilgrims around the Ponte do Sebastião bridge over the Neiva river.

The Antas-Esposende Camino stone monument.

From the bridge there is a short and mildly steep climb. At the top, near a church there is a new albergue. Here I meet a couple of other pilgrims, among them Tara that also was in Vila do Conde and that we briefly met in the morning. The funny part is this. They all ask me if I am the missing Norwegian. Apparently June had reported me as missing, so clearly my message had been misunderstood.

Ponte do Sebastião.

Before another short, but fine, woodland path I pass by what is the oldest church outside of Spain that is dedicated to santiago. The Igreja de Santiago de Castelo do Neiva, which is partly under reconstruction. The Camino, although nice, actually takes an interesting choice of way, going around in a wide turn only to return just on the other side of the church.

Capela de Nossa Senhora das Mercês.

Sunlight filtered through the dust left by some bikers.

Stumbling out of the serene woods, I arrive at the Mosteiro de São Romão do Neiva, a 10th century Benedictine monastery. However, it is what I see when I turn around that catch my attention. Third snag of the day. There, at the top of a staircase lies the Capela de Senhora do Crasto. Flanking the many stairs to the top are various boards with tiles that depicts scenery from the Bible I guess.

The Capela de Senhora do Crasto and the staircase up to it.

Board with tiles on the path up to the Capela de Senhora do Crasto, marked with Agonia.

Missing the sea, it has still been a nice walk so far. No need for a beacon or lighthouse to show the way today though. No clearer beacon than the Basílica de Santa Luzia cannot be found. I have seen the distinct shape of the basilica from far away today. At first from the sandy beach next to Esposend, and then from the Santuário de Guia and so at regular times throughout the walk. On the final approach to the city, over the Ponte Eiffel (no points for guessing who built the bridge), the basilica is clearly visible on the hill (Monte de Santa Luzia). Despite the several snags of the day, I arrive at a fairly good time, before the clock has struck four.

The door of the Igreja de Santiago in Anha.

Having not booked a place to stay, and not wanting to stay at the albergue, I have to spend some time finding a place to sleep. I end up at the Pensão Viana Mar Residencial, a quirky and creaky place run by a friendly old man. There is no secret that my primary sight today will be the Monte de Santa Luzia, but asking about the closing time of the elevator up, I have good time to get up. Thinking it is a good thing taking a short break, I sit down at the Praça da Republica for a beer. While sitting there, I see June striding past. How did she end up behind me? This is not the first time that has happened during my Camino. I will have to wait to get the answer, she just strode quickly past and disappeared into one of the small streets leading away from the square.

Interesting tiny and colorful flowers.

I go for a walk in the city. It is a beautiful city too. There is a huge inflatable Lego figure in the port area.

Viana do Castelo.

The host at my accommodation is however wrong in one thing, the Elevador de Santa Luzia does not close at seven o'clock, it closes at five. And I just missed it by a minute. To get up to the basilica, I have to use my feet. This will be the third time today that I have to walk on a staircase up to a holy place, but it is probably more scenic than the cablecar. Although quite massive in size, the Basílica de Santa Luzia is simply stunning. Romanesque and Byzantine in origins, it is quite ornamented and boasts large rose-windows on three sides, with a dome at the top. Given that I could see the basilica from far away, I can see far away from it too, with Viana do Castelo in almost full sight below. The sun, having started its descent over the sea, is painting the western side of the basilica in warm sunlight. I am however too late to get inside, it too closed at five o'clock.

Praça da Republica in Viana do Castelo.

Beautiful it is and I want to experience the sunset on the sanctuary. There is still some time to that occur, so I walk up to the Pousada above. From here, I have the basilica in view with the coast as the background. This hotel attracts the more 'exclusive' clientele (or so I have heard), so I indulge myself in an 'exclusive' beer from the bar and sit outside looking at the Basílica de Santa Luzia turning more and more red as the sunset sets in. It is a magical moment. I then go back down to the sanctuary again, to see the sunset itself over the Atlantic. It goes down between the clouds and the sea in the horizon, a fiery ball plunging into the ocean.

The path up to Monte de Santa Lucia.

Basílica de Santa Luzia.

Down in Viana do Castelo, I locate Klaus, Tulle and June for dinner. June tells me that she had to find a toilet and in the search for a café had taken a wrong turn, explaining how I get ahead of her despite being 'missing'. The dinner is good and a perfect end to another great day. June has also brought us some presents, a pineapple cake from Taiwan. We all then agrees to meet up tomorrow morning to visit the basilica together, I guess I am not finished with it.

The Basílica de Santa Luzia in the sunset.

And Viana do Castelo has more in store for me. While walking a little bit at random back towards my accommodation, I meet Sang Hee with two other pilgrims on their way for a night cap (or rather sangria). I join them, but skip the sangria for a beer instead. A wonderful day indeed.

Sunset from Monte de Santa Luzia.

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