Distance: 25.4km (52.4km).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 960m / 498m / 955m.
Weather: Sunny and clear blue sky.
The second day on the Camino was a fantastic day, where the weather showed itself from an altogether different side than yesterday. The heavy and grey weather that I brought with me from France across the Pyrenees yesterday was today gone and left behind a clear blue sky with a radiant sun. I walked to the small village of Larrasoana, about 25km from Roncesvalles, with the small population of 200 inhabitants.
Early morning inside the walls of the monastery at Roncesvalles from a window in the albergue.
From Roncesvalles, the Camino went through a verdant and undulating scenery, up and down lush hills, and past pleasant small Basque villages and hamlets. The walking were for the most part on pleasant paths, but there were also some sections alongside roads. The only part of the walk that was boring was where the trail went past a large industrial complex after Zubiri before Larrasoana.
Roncesvalles in the morning, on my way on the second day of my Camino.
Torsten was ready at the same time as I in the morning, so we walked together from Roncesvalles. We stopped to buy something easy to eat for breakfast in the first village we came to, Burguete (Auritz in Basque), a typical Basque village with white houses and red roofs. Before Larrasoana, the Camino passes through several small villages, like Espinal, Viskarret (where I stopped for lunch), Linzoain and Zubiri. Underway to Larrasoana, we had become three pilgrims walking together, on the way we met Christoph (also from Germany).
Burguete, the first village you arrive at after Roncesvalles. Typical white houses with red roofs that the Basque country are known for.
We let us be amazed by the fact that almost every of the small villages we walked through, each had their own curious sports court with walls painted green. Later, we learned that is was pelota courts, a ball game not unlike squash (only in a larger court). We also wondered about the old lady walking the trail, while she was dragging her luggage on a trolley that was far from suitable for the purpose.
The trail went over two hills, Alto de Mezquiriz (955m) and Alto de Erro (810m). The walk over Alto de Erro was the finest of them; it began with an ascent on a paved path from Linzoain. Over the hill, we walked in shade on a pleasant path with views over the rolling landscape. We passed by a small mobile kiosk selling refreshments to the pilgrims, hot in the nice weather. At the kiosk, there stood a small box marked with 'free shop', in the box there were various trinkets that earlier pilgrims did not need anymore and had left behind.
Pilgrims on the way from Burguete.
The extremities of such a walk was pointedly emphasized when we passed by a memorial for a Japanese pilgrim that lost his life on the walk. Later we walked by what was to become a lasting memorial underway on the Camino, a pair of left behind shoes, which someone had written Santiago upon together with an arrow pointing in the correct direction. An empty bottle of wine lay next to the shoes.
Zubiri is for many the endpoint of the walk from Roncesvalles. You arrive at the village after crossing Puente de la Rabia, an old medieval bridge, the name of the bride origins from an old myth that if you lead an animal three times around the central arch of the bridge, the animal will be cured of rabies. We only took a short look at the village, before moving on.
In between, the Camino went through tunnels made by the vegetation.
To get to Larrasoana, we also had to cross a medieval bridge, Puente de Los Bandidos. In these times, there are no bandits here; the area is quiet and peaceful. The Camino itself does not pass through the village, you continue on before you cross the bandit's bridge.
On the way up towards Alto de Mezquiriz after Espinal. In the background, the verdant and rolling mountains of the Pyrenees.
Larrasoana was a nice and small village. It was already several pilgrims sitting outside the municipal albergue when we arrived, waiting for it to open. Both Signe and Christel were already there when we came. Backpacks and walkers stood piled up along the walls. I got to talk to several other Camino-walkers. The albergue consisted of one main house and an annex that was located nearby, I got a bed in the annex. The first thing on my schedule was to get started on what was to become an important routine on the walk, first a shower and then wash my clothes and hang them to dry.
Linzoain below, on a paved path up towards Alto de Erro.
After looking at the place, I walked to the local restaurant, Taberna Perutxena, where a large group of pilgrims had gathered outside for wine and beer. One quickly gets the feeling of being included in a sort of community on the Camino. I really enjoyed myself on the walk today, but also had a great time in the afternoon and evening at the place.
Puente de los Bandidos, at Larrasoana. In the evening, we sat down out at the bridge and enjoyed the clear and starry sky.
I ate dinner at the same restaurant together with Christel, Torsten, Emma and Signe later in the evening, menu del peregrino for 7€. I ate pasta as starter, beef stew for the main course and rice pudding for dessert. We got an additional decanter of wine for free; but for the next one, I paid 4€ for. Food and drinks are cheap on the Camino.
Outside the albergue in Larrasoana, pilgrims waiting for it to open so to secure a bed for the night.
After the dinner, we bought with us another bottle of wine and went and sat down on the bride, which is crossing the Rio Arga. There we sat and looked up at the starry sky while we listened to music. It felt as if I had abruptly gained a new set of friends in my life. It was a wonderful end of a great day.
Dinner in Larrasoana, from left Christel, Torsten, Emma and Signe.
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