Distance: 29.0km (192.6km).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 380m / 489m / 670m.
Weather: Very hot, no clouds.
I went almost thirty kilometres on this day on the Camino, to the former capital of the kingdom of Navarre. It is getting near the end of my time together with the group that I have become so familiar with and have enjoyed spending my time with. Najera was originally not the place I had planned to walk to today, that was Ventosa, but since the rest of the group now gathered in Najera, I decided to go there as well.
Walking in the dark streets of Logrono in the morning, Benito ahead of me on the Way.
It was not always that interesting today, which changed between being interesting and not during the walk. The only thing that was stable during the day was the heat, which I could feel pretty well during the kilometres I left behind me. I went out of water some way before Najera and arrived at the town with my mouth dry.
Pantano de La Grajera, a wildlife reservoir outside Logrono.
To walk into Logrono yesterday felt better than walking out of the city this morning, it was as if the roles from Pamplona was switched, there it felt better to walk out. The sunrise was great; they are really bright red down here, but the surroundings was in opposition to the background this time.
Ermita del Peregrino Pasante, Marcelino Lobato in his 'office' with stamp, pilgrims-stones, fruits and refreshments for the pilgrims.
When I got closer to Parque de La Grajera, it became better, the pylons became trees and the trail disappeared into the wildlife reservoir. Inside the park is the Pantano de La Grajera lake and the sight of water was dear. We walked by Emma, who was sitting and contemplating the view of the lake, she seemed preoccupied with her own thoughts and we let her sit alone in peace. Everyone is in need for some time for themselves, and there are many walking the Camino that has some problems they want to overcome in a way or another.
In Navarette, an elderly couple was heating bell peppers on a barbeque, which they will sell to the pilgrims walking by.
The lake was perfect in that way, your mind will become more in peace when you are located in a peaceful atmosphere. Parque de La Grajera is also the location of Marcelino Lobato's Ermita del Peregrino Pasante. Marcelino is a lifestyle-pilgrim that otherwise sit here in a small booth and provides food and refreshments to the pilgrims passing by. With me in my backpack, I also got a round stone with a yellow arrow painted on it, then I carry The Way with me wherever I go.
Inside the church La Asuncion in Navarette, adornments in the roof.
Navarette felt in many ways as a natural midpoint of today's walk, on the same level as Viana yesterday. Naturally enough, the cafés, bars and restaurants in the small town was filled up by pilgrims, both familiar and unknown. The route continued past the vineyards of La Rioja.
In Ventosa, Torsten resting at the top of a terrace overlooking the small place, in the background the direction we came from.
Ventosa, which I originally planned to go to, was a small and sleepy village. On the walk so far, I had grown to become fond of these small places along the route and I would have liked to spend the evening and night here. On the other hand, the feeling of having become a part of a larger fellowship was something of the greatest part of the journey so far, so I set due course to Najera as well.
After Ventosa, someone had made a heart of stone on the Camino.
It does something with you, walking the Camino. That is maybe why there are so many personal memorials left behind by the pilgrims. Earlier today, I passed by a fence where the walkers had hung up own made crosses on it; after Ventosa, we walked by a heart made of stones on the route, as well a place with very small pillars of stones with a small angel hidden between them.
From the albergue in Najera, drawings on the wall displaying the various landmarks you pass by on your walk to Santiago de Compostela.
The first that struck me when I arrived at Najera, except the first place where I could quench my thirst, was that the town felt quite poor. Neither was it pretty. Later in the evening, I had not changed my view, the town still felt poor and not pretty. The municipal albergue was a large and long building, with a just as large dormitory, the reception was however very warm and heartfelt. Hot tea and biscuits stood ready for us when we arrived. The albergue was donativo, which means that the pilgrims themselves decide how much they want to pay for the stay.
Christel with her tattoos, milch and blut (milk and blood), outside the albergue in Najera. Emma, Torsten and Daniel are sitting next to the building in the background. Looking over the town is the cross Cruz Malpica.
As mentioned, the town was not of the pretty kind, but the buildings of Monasterio Santa Maria de la Real was very nice. Now it is not always the appearance of the place that controls whether you have a good time or not, we gathered together for a pleasant dinner in a small street-restaurant. This would be my last dinner with the group and therefore a little bit sad as well. Emma has no more days available and will be going home tomorrow. I have to slow down, so not to get to Ponferrada too early, where I will meet my dad who will walk together with me from there.
Monasterio Santa Maria de la Real in Najera in the evening.
A changing day, very warm and partly nice. Pantana de La Grajera a highlight, while Najera as a town was not so pleasant for the eyes. These eight days I got together with Torsten, Emma, Christel, Jon, Christoph, Benito, Signe, Pauline, Derek, Nathalie, Claire and Daniel (and more, Blaithin was a short, but pleasant acquaintance here) was wonderful, it has been a privilege to get to share this experience together with them.
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