Distance: 27.4km (143.3km).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 485m / 460m / 910m.
Weather: Changing between slightly overcast and nice.
Even though looking back at yesterday was nice, I did not sleep that well during the night. The reason was what maybe is the biggest problem on the Camino, except blisters for someone, snoring fellow pilgrims. The sideman next to me, who by the way seemed nice, made a great foghorn in the night.
Monasterio de Irache in the twilight.
This was my sixth day on the Camino and also the longest so far, though it was not that longer than the first day. I walked to the small village of Torres del Rio after as said a long and dry day through the bleak landscape of Navarre. The walk in itself was almost magnificent, even though I had to take a detour off from the Camino to make it so.
On the road to Monjardin, which towers in the background with the ruins of Castillo de San Esteban on the top.
And it all began in the dark as usual. I took a small sip of wine from Fuente de Vino (Bodegas Irache) on the way for fun. I arrived at the Benedictine monastery in the twilight; in the dawning light, the buildings of the monastery seemed dark and sombre. That feeling however disappeared quickly when I walked below the mountainsides of Montejurra, when the light had returned to the world. In the horizon, I could see the top (Monjardin) above Villamayor de Monjardin, with the ruins of Castillo de San Esteban distinct against the background.
Sunlight over Montejurra, between Azqueta and Villamayor de Monjardin.
From the time the light begun to brighten up the landscape, it was a delightful walk towards Villamayor de Monjardin. The Camino went on good natural paths and eventually the red and warm globe appeared above Montejurra. I passed through a cozy tiny village, Azqueta, where I later heard that Torsten had been served milk from one of the villagers who also had his own pilgrim's stamp. Before Monjardin, the Camino went between red acres and vineyards in an undulating landscape; the church spire of the village was visible peeking up from the fields.
The church spire of San Andres in Villamayor de Monjardin peeking up from the red acres before the village.
Villamayor de Monjardin has everything that is needed for a pleasant stay in a small village, but when I arrived, it was quiet and calm there. Some few other pilgrims looked up, said 'buen Camino' and walked on. Above the village, on the top of Monjardin, is the ruins of Castillo de San Esteban. And my feet was itching to get up there to look at them. Daniel was sitting and resting in the village when I arrived and answered in a pragmatic way 'if you want to go, then go' when I mentioned that I wanted to climb up there.
View down towards Villamayor de Monjardin and in the direction the Camino follows from Monjardin and the ruins of Castillo de San Esteban.
I went up. From the top of Monjardin, the view was formidable view and the light was extraordinary. In the direction that I had come from, lay the landscape bathed in a pale light, as if the light went through a veil. Below me, lay the village from where I could follow the pilgrims walking into the scorched landscape in the horizon. The castle itself was situated at the top of some cliffs, a small staircase led up to a gate that unfortunately was locked. There was no possibility to get into the ruins to see them more closely. I followed the gravel track down again, instead of the small path through the bush that I climbed up on.
Excellent view from Monjardin and Castillo de San Esteban.
Down in the village again I wanted to have something to eat, but when the owner of the café in a sour manner snapped at me that I could not put my backpack where I had left it, I let it be. Not so wise given that it was 12km to the next place, Los Arcos, and the route passes by remote vineyards and an open landscape without shade and water sources. The walk was cool though, where I went among scattered pilgrims. Around the Camino, there was remains of old buildings and houses, on hilltops there were old churches. Someone had written 'Buen Camino' with stones on the gravel track you walk on. How the landscape has changed since the Pyrenees.
Remains of an old house with a church on a hilltop in the background, between Villamayor de Monjardin and Los Arcos.
In the outskirts of Los Arcos, I met Claire, Benito, John and Christoph at a small bar that did not have any food. Benito had some small troubles with his knees. My stay in the town did no become long, though I should have visited the church, Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos. I continued walking instead, having just ate a very quick and small meat in Los Arcos.
In Los Arcos, the church of Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos.
I thought that Torsten and Emma was far ahead of me, but I caught up with them and Christel shortly after leaving Los Arcos. The following walk felt very long, I was quite tired when we arrived the pleasant village Sansol. From a terrace, we could look down upon Torres del Rio. We had to cross Rio Linares before arriving. It was long day for me.
Torres del Rio seen from Sansol.
In Torres del Rio we found a nice albergue, Derek and Nathalie was also there. It was not a very large village, but it was very nice there. The Knights Templars apparently was of the same opinion and had left behind traces of them, the Iglesia de Santo Sepulcro church was supposed to be proof of that. When I sat and relaxed in the albergue I saw that my visit to the Castillo de San Esteban had resulted in an unpleasant acquaintance, a tick had bitten itself to one of my thighs. Emma got the annoying bug removed.
The albergue in Torres del Rio, Torsten sits outside and waits.
Saturday evening in the village was interesting, but unfortunately for me I was way too tired to take part of it for too long. They made a small disco in a small bar, while they played tango (Nathalie was an eager dancer). Video karaoke was screened on a television set, where a small group of Koreans had gathered in front of it and dancing.
A wonderful day.
<- AyeguiLogrono ->
No comments:
Post a Comment