Baekdu Daegan // day 22 // Mungyeongeup

Rest day, but not that I sit quietly all the day. I am not too fond of rest days, when I am out on a walk I have a personal drive to keep moving forward. The weather is nice outside when I wake up in the morning, and that is also making me want to continue walking. However, I think it is a good idea to rest now, I have been tired during the last days. Moreover, my shoes are not dry yet either, but now I can at least put them out in the sun to dry. I eat breakfast at a Korean coffee franchise, Angel-in-Us, as they have sandwiches and baguettes for sale. Something it has not been much of on the journey, there are some things that you do miss from back home.

Above Juheulgwan there is a huge film set that is built like an authentic village from the Joseon-period in Korea, it is built by KBS and is frequently used to film period-dramas. Above the film set is the wonky ridge that I was walking over in bad weather yesterday.

I spend the day of rest looking around in the town and the provincial park that the place is the entrance to, Mungyeong Saejae. First however, I have to do some of the 'chores' that is necessary to do during the day. My clothes needs to be washed, a strap on the hip of my backpack has loosened a little bit that I need to fix and my camera bag needs some first aid as well.

A large and fantastic jeongja that I passed by on the Great Yeongnam road. If it was allowed to sleep in it, I would have done so.

From Mungyeongeup the park goes upwards alongside the Chogokcheon-river, squeezed in between the Juheulsan-ridge in the east and the Joryeongsan-ridge in the west. It follows the Yeongnam-road that was built during the Joseon era (1392-1897) to connect the cities of Seoul (then Hanyang) and Busan together. I can enjoy the walk and the scenery a lot more today, due to the nice weather, than I did when I walked down yesterday.

Jogokgwan, the second date.

Not far above Juheulgwan (the first gate) has KBS built a huge film set, an authentic village from the Joseon era in full scale. The film set is frequently used to filming period-dramas. The background to the impressive buildings are also marvellous, I can look up at the ridge that I walked over yesterday in the bad weather, but it does feels kind of empty and lifeless walking through the streets of this village.

A small restaurant set into the forest below the second gate.

At Jogokgwan (the second gate), I have walked far enough for today, even though I have been walking quite slowly. After a better and less wet look at the gate, I sit down and eat lunch, pajeon, at the restaurant that is located somewhat hidden below the gate. It is relaxing sitting there, listening to the soft music and look at the Chogokcheon running quietly by.

Filming a scene for a TV-drama.

I walk through the film set again on the way down; a scene to a TV-drama is being filmed there. Men is costumes are marching in line through the streets, during breaks smart telephones are brought forth from the costumes. Outside the first gate, there is also a small park, which contains a large birdcage. Between Mungyeongeup and the film set there are small tourist trains going; I had at first hoped that it went all the way up to Joryeong, but disappointed had to confess that I was not that lucky.

Dinner at a local restaurant in the evening, hot pepper bacon with a lot of vegetables, good.

I am enjoying my stay in the town, and I spend the rest of the afternoon and evening there. I eat dinner, hot pepper bacon, in a restaurant. Many small dishes with vegetables, rice, tofu soup and roasted bacon. There are still signs, however, that I am tired, I almost fell asleep when I am sitting down at my room in the evening. A nice day of rest.

<- MungyeongeupHaneuljae ->

Baekdu Daegan // day 21 // Ihwaryeong - Mungyeongeup

Baekdudaegan day 21.
Distance: 15.5km (341.6km), time spent: 10:20 (179:27).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 525m / 327m / 1026m.
Weather: Heavy rain and wind (typhoon).

I wake up to the most dramatic day on the walk so far. It has poured down all night long, and there are no signs of it abating either. There is nothing pleasant about preparing breakfast, in the sour and gusty weather. A walk to the hyugeso through the tunnel to throw away some garbage and buy some soda from the vending machines outside, is a short premonition of what lies ahead. The place is dark and deserted, the rain is lashing down unceasingly and I am wrapping myself well up inside my raincoat. The two bikers are still sleeping inside the tent when I set off in the morning; I leave behind some biscuits for them in the jeongja. It is definitely more tempting just crawling back inside the tent again, but if I stop for every day it rains, I might never finish the walk.

Rolling clouds and rain in the valley below Ihwaryeong in the morning, the road can be seen like a glowing thread through the clouds.

From Ihwaryeong the Baekdudaegan enters Mungyeong Saejae Provincial Park, and over a wonky and exposed ridge. With equally spectacular views, which I get to see fairly little of. And you too, I am forced to put away my camera in my backpack so it does not get broken, my small compact camera have to make do. The walk up towards Joryeongsan is a soggy one, named after the highest pass the Great Yeongnam Road in Mungyeong Saejae goes over. On the places there are views to be had; you can only a see a grey wall.

The jeongja at Ihwaryeong.

From Joryeongsan (1026m) however, the trail changes character. While the rain lashes me in the face in a continuous onslaught, the trail is balancing further on an exposed ridge. I have to scramble over, next to, and up and down huge boulders with the aid of ropes while it is blowing and raining heavily. There are long drops on each side of several of these obstacles, so you have to be concentrated when you walk across them. The rain is making the rocky surface slippery.

Misty mountain hop.

I am wearing good rainwear, but what good does that do when the attack is coming from the inside. The many ropes are making me soaking wet, the water runs down the ropes and then by my hands finds its way underneath the clothes on my arms. All I have of clothes under the rainwear gets drenched, the shoes as well. Twice I slip and fall on the now treacherous path, which has turned into a tenacious stream of mud. Fortunately, this is happening on parts of the trail that are not exposed, but also because of it, since I am less concentrated at the time. Several times I have to stop to empty the raincoat of my backpack of water.

The ridge of Mungyeong Saejae.

In between, the bad weather allows me to see something of the scenery around me, through small glimpses. It is undeniably spectacular and the clouds that are wearing and tearing in the mountains makes it even more dramatic. I later get to hear that it was a typhoon that I had been walking in, if I had knew that, I would have probably thought it over again before I had started to walk this section of the trail. It is though quite likely that the hosts at the Ihwaryeong Hyugeso did try to warn me that it was a typhoon, but that they did not know how they would tell me since we do not speak each other's languages. A communication problem led me out into this hardship.

Walking over Mungyeong Saejae in a typhoon, one of the numerous descents and ascents with the aid of ropes while it was pouring down.

I arrive at Joryeong and the third gate of the Great Yeongnam Road tired, wet and cold. It is completely quiet at the pass, there are some few others visitors here, but they disappear fast and I am left behind alone in the rain. It is a magnificent and mighty place. The restaurant here that the guidebook is advertising for is unfortunately closed, I had looked forward to get inside a warm place and get something to eat after this strenuous walk. Instead, I seek shelter underneath the gate and eat something from my own food supply while I am wondering what to do.

At the summit of Sinseonambong (937m).

Originally, my plan was to go to Haneuljae, about 9km more, I can still do that. I will be able to keep myself relatively warm if I only walk. However, there is nothing at that pass. I will be able to change into dry clothes and get the warmth back, inside the tent; but all of the clothes and shoes that I walk in will be wet and they will not be dry again to tomorrow. Camping is not allowed here at Joryeong, but there is a jeongja here that I can use. But the same applies here as at Haneuljae, I will not get my clothes and shoes dry. Walking down from the pass is now a long walk on tired and sore feet, whichever way I choose, and there is the backside that I have to walk back up again.

The clouds wearing and tearing in the landscape below the Mungyeong Saejae-ridge.

I finally decides to follow the Great Yeongnam Road down to Mungyeongeup. The way goes through three magnificent gates with 3km between each of them; I am currently located at the uppermost gate (Joryeonggwan). About 1km after the lowermost gate (Juheulgwan) you find Mungyeongeup, so there are about 7km to walk. I totters downwards in the rain on sore feet.

Joryeonggwan, the third gate of the Great Yeongnam Road.

When I have been walking downwards for some time I can hear music come from the trees and sees that there is a restaurant that is open. I quickly goes in, happy and pleased to get inside a warm place. A group of retired policemen are also at the place and are inviting me to eat with them. Korean pancakes, pajeon, and kogi (meat), so I satisfied eat what I am being offered. For drink, I am being served makgeolli mixed with beer. The meat turns out to be snails, not quite my taste, but it went down.

In shelter for the storm in a restaurant below Joryeong, together with a group of retired policemen.

There is still some way to go down to Mungyeongeup, the restaurant is located between the third and second gate (Jogokgwan), I keep company with the policemen down. It is a nice walk down, but in my state I unfortunately does not get much out of it. Finally down, we find a minbak for me, and a well maintained one as that. I take off all my wet clothes and shoes, and hangs them to dry. And after a hot shower and having put on some dry clothes, then life is good again.

Down at Juheulgwan, the first gate of the Great Yeongnam Road. Mungyeongeup is lying a little bit further down.

I eat bibimpap for dinner at a local restaurant, but that is also almost all I see of the place in the afternoon and evening. I will have time enough to look at the place and Mungyeong Saejae; I have decided to take a day of rest tomorrow. After three weeks on the journey, it is probably ok to take a break. What a day.

<- IhwaryeongMungyeongeup ->

Baekdu Daegan // day 20 // Eunti - Ihwaryeong

Baekdudaegan day 20.
Distance: 21.5km (326.1km), time spent: 11:21 (169:07).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 297m / 525m / 1063m.
Weather: Nice at the beginning, more clouds later on.

I have a long day ahead of me, so I do not listen to the signals my body sends me and rise up early. Breakfast is cooked in the darkness outside the container, but is consumed inside in the heat. I have begun to spend a lot longer time during the morning hours, that I am tired is probably a good indication of why. Despite that I got up in good time, I get started a lot later than I wanted to.

Morning in Eunti, on the way up to the Baekdudaegan again, above me I can see the ridge that I will be walking.

As earlier mentioned, the backside of going down from the ridge is that you have to walk or climb back up again. On the way up I make a not so wise choice, my original good idea was to follow a path I believed to be going in a more direct direction up towards Euntigogae than I went down. Instead, the path turns out to be going in a direction I do not know where will end. So I decide to break off from it and walk in the direction of the path I went down on, through the vegetation. Not a good choice, that either. As the pressure cookers in my head is going off in irritation, and I can almost feel the steam from them coming out of my ears, I have to bash down again through scrub and bush. I end up down by the apple orchard where I so blatantly set off the alarm yesterday. From here, I at least know the way back up again. I never learn. I feel that all the rest I got yesterday is running out into the sand.

View towards Huiyangsan and the Bongamyonggol valley, the Bongamsa-temple can be seen to the lower right in the picture.

After spending too much time and effort to get back into the safe embrace of the Baekdudaegan, I hit a good stride up to the nine kings peak, Guwangbong (879m). From several spots, I can look down at Eunti, lying peaceful in the valley below. The trail goes steeply down after the summit, but the climb is rewarding you with great sights of the verdant valley of Bongamyonggol where you can see the Bongamsa-temple lying under the sacred eyes of the Huiyangsan-mountain. The mountain is breaking out of the wonderful green monotony with smooth grey mountainsides.

Jireumtijae, several signs, fences and ropes at this pass in the woods. Above there is a guardhouse of some kind.

At Jireumtijae, I pass a small guardhouse of some kind, just above another cabin of an unknown function. The pass are almost fenced in at all sides and from there the trail yet again kicks off with a climb upwards. I scare off a wild boar that runs snorting away through the trees. The path to the summit of Huiyangsan carries off from Baekdudaegan by a junction you get to after some steep climbs with the aid of ropes. The mountain is sacred for the monks at Bongamsa and at given times there is forbidden for hikers to visit the top. No such hindrance today, I let go of my backpack and set off towards the summit 400 metres away.

At the top of Huiyangsan, a look back towards where I came from.

Not a long walk in other words, but in return it is incredibly cool, you walk over and next to some formidable round cliffs. The summit lies at 998m, and is offering fluttering ribbons, several doltaps (cairns) and a view over the landscape below. I may wonder if one of the monks at Bongamsa is standing and watching up at me from the temple.

The top of Huiyangsan consists of several large and smooth cliffs and boulder that the path to the summit passes over.

Old history emerges from the undergrowth when the trail passes by the walls of an ancient fortress, which is probably built by the Silla kingdom in the 6th centuries Three Kingdoms Period, as a defence towards the Goguryeo kingdom in the north. It is as bygone ghosts of old are watching me from the depths of time, and I takes a wrong turn. It is first when I have come a long way down that I find out that something is wrong, and have to take the hard walk back up again. I sense the pressure cooker going off again. At the correct trail there is one single ribbon hanging, in opposition to the fireworks that decorated the trail I took.

Ancient fortress walls from the 6th century, over 1400 years old. Here I am standing beneath the wall on the wrong path going down.

It almost goes off again at Baeneomi Pyeongjeon, a junction where I cannot find the correct way from at once. So I just as well choose to sit down and have lunch. One trail goes down towards Eunti again, another goes in a northeasterly direction. Most of the ribbons is beckoning at the trail that leads to the summit of Sirobong, which does not correspond with the map or the guidebook. The correct direction from the junction is southeast, which there are no trail going to. It turns out that I firstly have to go on the trail that leads northeast, after which there is a path leading off it that is the Baekdudaegan.

View towards the ridge that continues further in a loop before it arrives at Ihwaryeong.

From here, the trail goes in a long loop towards southeast, before it twists towards northwest. I have spent a lot of time and effort on all the wrong choices today, and being a little bit irritated, I speed up my pace. Fortunately, it is a good path to walk on, though there are some scrambling both with and without ropes required. I pass several peaks, Imanbong, Gomteulbong, Baekhwasan, Hwangaksan, Jobong, while clouds come rolling in over the sky. I arrive at Ihwaryeong and the hyugeso there just before it closes.

A path through the woods.

Something that I am delighted about. I get to order some food, a good rice and curry dish with chicken again, with refill while eating. After having bought some goodies for later before they close (beer, potato chips, sweets), I understand on their body language that it is going to rain tomorrow. I really want to sit down there and relax some more, it was a nice place, but they directs me to a jeongja that lies on the other side of the pass. It is fortunately quite large and also very well ornamented. There will be no problem sleeping in it and keeping dry during the night.

Ihwaryeong Huygeso. I arrive at the place just before it closes; it was almost no people there at that time.

Darkness falls, and with the evening, the rain also comes. From the valley below, I can see the lights from the expressway that goes in a tunnel beneath the pass. The sound from the road is indescribable from up here, it sounds like the sounds of ufo's or spaceships from science-fiction movies. Two bikers from Busan arrives in the rain, tired. They set up a tent inside the jeongja, and invites me to a have spot inside it as well. Nice, even though I really would have preferred to sleep outside in the fresh air. I am excited of what tomorrow brings of weather. Below it is still humming from the spaceships.

View down towards the valley in the evening from the jeongja at the pass of Ihwaryeong. The lights from the cars are forming a glowing line in the dark. The sounds from the cars makes you feel that you are in a sci-fi movie.

<- EuntiMungyeongeup ->

Baekdu Daegan // day 19 // Beorimigijae - Eunti

Baekdudaegan day 19.
Distance: 11.0km (304.6km), time spent: 05:45 (157:46).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 500m / 297m / 916m.
Weather: Sunny.

From my forbidden sleep below Beorimigijae, I wake up to a nice day, still tired. Looking around my campsite, I can see some littering around, so apparently I am not the first one to have spent the night here. Morning chores go slow. That being said, I have enough time to spend today, I have planned for a shorter day. The guidebook's suggestion that I should go to Eunti, seems like a good idea.

My campsite in the forest below Beorimigijae.

Firstly, however, I do have to go back up to the pass where the trail continues. Secondly, the trailhead is fenced off, so I have to find another way to the trail from the pass. There is a stream running down from the ridge a little way down from the pass, next to it a path is trailing up into the forest. I follow the path for some time, before deciding to leave it and climb up to the Baekdudaegan. Crossing the stream, I step dangerously close to a coiled up snake, an important reminder to be careful where you put your feet. There are snakes in South-Korea that are potentially lethal, and this is not the first snake I have seen on the trail, nor will it be the last.

A coiled up snake lies looking at me, I stepped dangerously close to it while crossing a stream.

This closed section through Songnisan carries no demanding parts like the closed sections on the two previous days, and I am thankful for it. The walking is mostly easy, a boon for a tired walker. And there are occasionally superb views to be had. However, the best views are before the summit of Jangseongbong (916m), at the start of the day. The last of the hours I spend in Songnisan National Park is a pleasant walk.

A beautiful view of ridges in the horizon, seen through the trees on a boulder on the climb up Jangseongbong.

At the Akhuibong junction, Songnisan is letting me go. Akhuibong itself is a worthy detour, I do not take it. No excursions today. Going further, the trail reopens and I can breathe free air again. I reach Euntigogae, where I leave the white head great ridge for today. About 2km down the valley from the pass lies the quiet mountain village of Eunti, but leaving the ridge is not something I do lightly. I know I will have to walk back up again.

The ridge opens up just before the summit of Jangseongbong, and I can behold this magnificent vista. Huiyangsan in the centre at the back.

At the summit of Jangseongbong.

Everything is quiet and serene down in the valley, except when I set off an alarm system belonging to an apple orchard just before I arrive at Eunti. A mighty glockenspiel ensues; the whole valley probably knows I will be coming now. The sight of the apples makes my mouth water. So much, that when I later pass a storage building for apples, I humbly ask if I can buy some apples, instead I leave with a bag full of juicy apples.

Ribbons and ladders leading the way on a descent on the trail.

The bustling waterhole here, The Baekdudaegan Swimteo, is however quite quiet and appears closed. A group of hikers coming down after me calls the owner. The place is closed, but I can sleep in the container opposite the restaurant. Leaving, they give me a huge bottle of beer and some food to eat (rice with beans). I can use the shower next to the restaurant, where I wash my clothes and myself, but the water is freezing cold.

Jangseung-poles and a monument in the small mountain village of Eunti.

The Yeongpung Confucian School in Goesan.

Later on, I travel to the nearby town of Yeonpungmyeon. I have started to look at these rides with taxis and cars here, as small adventures in themselves. In Yeonpungmyeon, I eat a huge rice curry dinner in a restaurant above a Nong Hyup supermarket. Looking around the small town, I find an old Confucian School. At the supermarket, I becomes the centre of attention; when I am leaving, the clerk at the counter bestows me with a handful of chocolate bars. My list of received jeong grows long.

The Baekdudaegan Swimteo in Eunti, notice the large number of ribbons and kettles hanging on the wall. The place was closed at the moment.

Back at Eunti, I spend the rest of the evening resting. Although kind of weird, the inside of the container is not so bad, I make myself at home. Going to bed, am I still unsure whether I have had enough rest.

Inside the container where I stayed the night in Eunti.

<- BeorimigijaeIhwaryeong ->

Baekdu Daegan // day 18 // Neuljae - Beorimigijae

Baekdudaegan day 18.
Distance: 16.1km (293.6km), time spent: 11:35 (152:01).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 450m / 500m / 984m.
Weather: Sunny, but overcast towards the evening.

With the toil and lawlessness of yesterday fresh in memory, I am back at Neuljae. In Hwabukmyeon, the host at the minbak had arranged a taxi for me, without me asking for it, which stood ready and waited for me outside this morning. I am also not alone here either, out from the bushes and the closed section on the other side of the road a young guy came bouncing. Now we both stands looking at the steles, the monuments and the sanshingak (which is empty inside) here and are preparing to continue further on the spiritual backbone. There is yet another closed section that awaits me later in the day.

Quiet in the streets of Hwabukmyeon in the morning.

The young man carries a significantly lesser backpack than I am and is speeding ahead faster than I do, with music in his ears. I can hear the sound from the music through the trees from above, the rhythms and tones leaving behind an emptiness in his footsteps. It is quiet again by an altar that is offering a marvellous view back towards Songnisan, this alter is a sinseondae, which is a spirit immortal platform, a shrine to the spirits (sanshin) that roams the mountains. The alter consists of a black tablet that stands between two incense holders of granite. The moment calls for quiet contemplation.

Sanshingak at Neuljae.

From Cheonghwasan (984m), spirits are high. I am walking as one with the spirits, and as one along with the ridge, this section of the trail is also beautiful in all its demandingness. But in Songnisan I am not, between Neuljae and Miljae the trail skirts along the national park. As soon as I enter the national park again, the trail will yet again be closed. Before I get so far, I will have to enjoy all the views, all the thin backs of stone you have to balance on, the fluttering ribbons, the joy of being in the adventure I am, while the mountain spirits circles invisible around me. 'Vigorously hiking the Baekdudaegan. All hopes and expectations are so sweet. Ah, ah, our mountains!' is it written on the top of Johangsan (953m).

Sinseondae below Cheonghwasan, a spirit immortal platform, Songnisan in the background.

The sound of running water meets me at Gomochi, a small and peaceful pass, and a breathing pause from the stony ridge above. A young man is sitting at the pass, quietly, almost motionless, a tent canvas is lying unfolded nearby. Jin Hwang Kim is also walking the Baekdudaegan, and as other Koreans, he does the trail in stages. It is hard for them to get enough free time to be able to walk the whole trail as a thru-hike. He goes as far each day as he feels like; today it felt good to stop here at Gomochi. It is water here and it is a quiet place. I let myself be lured by the contemplative atmosphere, and stays here for a long time. Way too long.

View from the summit of Johangsan.

Having finished my break at Gomochi, I climb back up on the ridge again, where I am met by some huge and really amazing boulders. One of them is bearing a name that gives me associations to something else, Gojillabawi. Above me, clouds are now coming rolling in on the sky, some of them being quite dark, something that just is building up under the mystique of the area. I arrive at Miljae and with that, I have yet again walked into Songnisan. From here, the trail is closed again, until the Akhuibong-junction about 12km away. Unlike at Munjangdae the place is virtually deserted. And as the cliché goes, the first cut is the deepest. I once again cross the borders and venture further on forbidden paths. Inside the closed area there is a peak that I do not want to miss, Daeyasan.

Miljae, at the border of the closed section of the trail.

From Miljae it goes straight, and steep, up towards the spectacular. Huge boulders and formations with bent and gnarled trees growing around, the climb is hard and the landscape is tough with views formed by light coming through the layer of clouds. Ah, ah, their mountains, Daemunbawi with its house of rocks. Up towards Daeyasan there is a fantastic climb, with ropes and ravines as obstacles. On the summit (930m), there is a mighty and heavenly vista that is meeting me, and I stay at the summit for a good while. Through the clouds, I can see the rays from the sun that are illuminating the landscape below, like small spotlights in the nature.

Now what may be the most demanding section of the trail, besides yesterday's section through Gaegumeongbawi, is ahead of me. And what is so nicely called the '100-meter rope'. From Daeyasan the path goes almost straight down the north face of the summit, with the aid of several series of rope. Parts of the descent are near abseil down vertical mountainsides, so serious caution are advised. Even so, I am having a great time going down, though this was the part of the trail that I was most nervous about beforehand. On the way down however, what makes me nervous are voices coming from the deep below. But I think those who are on their way up, are just as nervous, since I can hear a hush from down there and then it becomes quiet. It turns out there were two other hikers going in the opposite direction.

View from the top of some huge boulders that the trail is passing over. Sunrays shines through the layer of clouds.

It is first now, after I am safely down from Daeyasan that I meet with my first big problem on the walk. The sky has begun to change into a different colour, evening is approaching; in other words, it will be dark in not so long. I believe it will not take too long time before I am at Beorimigijae, but in that I am deeply mistaken. At this time, I am very tired, and is using a lot more time than usual. The path is also not so easy to follow. And when I am standing on a small peak a little while after having climbed Chotdaebong (668m), a lump of a peak, it has gotten dark.

Daeyasan, a steep summit I had looked forward to climb.

I have a hard time finding the path down from the small peak. In the dark, the trail is not so visible and since I am in a closed section, there are also a lot less ribbons to navigate after too. Further down it only gets worse, it is pitch black and I am unable to see if I am on the path or not. My headlamp is displaying signs that the battery is weak. After a while, I just have to realize that I believe have gotten lost. It is not a good feeling. I have been keeping watch on the compass needle and seen that I have been walking in the roughly correct direction, but still. Later on, I can hear the quiet noise of water coming from a creek. On the map there is no signs marking the existence of a water source or creek near Beorimigijae, and I could not remember it was saying anything about it in the guidebook either.

At the summit of Daeyasan.

But, there is water nearby and I have food in the backpack. I decide to go down to the water, which turns out to be a quite big stream actually. My thought is now to fill up with water and then find a place to pitch the tent, and then use tomorrow to find out where I am, when it is light. While I am standing and filling up water, a car is driving past me only ten meters away from me. Up at the road, I can only look astoundingly to the fact that I am only 50 meters down from Beorimigijae. I must have been walking in the correct direction almost all the way, only deviated from the trail towards the end.

The '100-meter rope'. On the way down from Daeyasan, one of several abseils down from the peak.

From within the trees on the other side of the road at Beorimigijae, where the closed section of the trail is continuing, I can see a small blue light. Another surveillance-camera monitoring the trail? West of the pass there is a camping site a couple of kilometres away, which I plan to stay the night at (I am still in a national park). I am hoping to get a hike down. Easier said than done, there are few cars passing by while I walk down the dark road. No one is stopping, which maybe is not that strange. To pick up a tall and dark stranger in the dark may not feel so safe. I have afterwards learned that you shall make a bow while you hitch in South-Korea to get a hike.

Darkness is slowly approaching, view back towards Daeyasan.

On the way down the road, however, I grow tired. On both sides of the road, I can hear water running, and when I see a small forest track take off from the road, I do not hesitate. Too tired to care at the moment, so I start walking on the track to find me a campsite. I do not have to walk far until I find a nice place to pitch my tent. Just before I am about to take out the tent, I receive a call from home, it feels good to talk to familiar voices again after the events of the evening. I cook up my usual Baekdudaegan-dish (ramyon-noodles with ham), before I crawl into the tent. It is quiet outside; I feel satisfied lying and relaxing inside my little cave. The day has been fantastic, but I could have done without the feeling of getting lost.

<- NeuljaeEunti ->

Baekdu Daegan // day 17 // Piatjae - Neuljae

Baekdudaegan day 17.
Distance: 16.3km (277.5km), time spent: 10:46 (140:26).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 625m / 450m / 1057m.
Weather: Wonderful.

It is quiet outside when I wake up in the morning, but during the night, it has been anything but quiet. Outside the tent, it has been a bustling nightlife, with a lot of sounds from animals passing by through the woods. It is Friday night, so it may not be so strange. It also probably means that I will meet many people today, since I am now moving into the very heart of Songnisan National Park. Ahead of me there is also an excitement of an altogether different nature, and which has occupied my mind over the last few days, after Munjangdae I will arrive at the first section of the trail that is closed.

View over Songnisan with its boulders and cliffs, seen from the summit of Cheonwangbong.

This day continues from where yesterday left, with a clear blue sky and a trail that continues its triumphant journey through a rolling landscape. And in the same way as yesterday, I am now also moving upwards, with cliffs and boulders that lets me clamber out upon them to bear witness to the reason of my toil. Above me yet another heavenly king peak is towering, Cheonwangbong, where I have to climb up to in order to start the real fun of Songnisan. The resemblance with Jirisan is striking, except for the height; the summit is only at 1057m.

The trail through the heart of Songnisan goes through boulders and cliffs, like here by a boulder that looks like a petrified Moomintroll.

A pirouette on the summit gives you a fantastic view to all sides; I can follow the spine of the national park across the horizon. It is a green spine, whereupon someone has planted several boulders, with the trail navigating itself right between them. At some point the boulders forms an avenue that you walk between, at another point a tunnel. The further into Songnisans domain I venture, the more boulders there are to play with, and the more people I meet. Going down from Cheonwangbong I met an older man that had a friend from a Norwegian city, Bergen.

By the small temple near Gyeongeopdae.

I am in the heart of Songnisan, and it beats strongly. After Sinseondae there is a steep path going down from the ridge, which in turn becomes a steep staircase. I throw away my backpack, despite all the people in the park, well knowing of the more than 2 million of won that I carry in it. The path leads down to the famous temple of Beopjusa, but I am not going so far down. There is another, and small, temple just below the ridge that is supposed to be well worth a visit. Hanging paper lanterns marks the way to the temple. To get there you have to go through a very small passageway between to enormous boulders, at the entrance there are signs engraved into the rocks. More lanterns accompanies you before you stand by the temple beneath the mighty boulders of Songnisan. It is a quiet place to be in, in opposite to the bustle at the top of the renouncing the world mountain.

Sinseondae Hyugeso. A popular rest area in the national park with somewhat more expensive prices than usual, but with some friendly hosts.

On the way down I met the first other foreigners on my walk since Jirisan for two weeks ago. Back up at the Baekdudaegan again, the first stop is the Sinseondae Hyugeso and I use the moment to indulge myself with food. I am ordering two gamjajeons (potato pancakes) and a lot of mineral water, those who I share the table with feels they have to fatten me up they as well. So grapes, soju and some food I do not know what are, is being sent in my direction, but it tasted good.

At Munjangdae, a boulder with a form like a gigantic golf ball, there is a teeming sea of people. At the top, gazing outwards, pulsating ridges and mountainsides, voices in the air, and a view to a forbidden trail. I meet again the man with a friend from Bergen. We stands enjoying the view, talks about Songnisan, he takes pictures of me, a lot, with my camera. We say goodbye, I stand left behind, and watching the ridge where the trail is continuing, sees the helipad where the path goes, sees the camera that surveillance the path, unsure of what to do.

Munjangdae, like a huge golf ball at the end of the trail.

From here, the trail is closed, the alternative is to walk down from the ridge and find some way to be transported to Neuljae, where the trail is open again. Something that I do not feel like, with the purist in me wakening. I had originally planned to follow the closed trail anyway, and see what happens. But now as I am standing here, am I unsure. There are a lot of people here, and a couple of park rangers nearby, I would be easily visible. And have you first become unsure, you soon start to doubt, and then it gets harder. After a while, I start walking crestfallen down from the ridge and the Baekdudaegan towards the park entrance at the Osong ticket booth. It was not how I had thought it would be.

At the top of Munjangdae. Behind me Gaegumeongbawi, where the closed trail is going through.

But on the way down, a determination grows in me, and at the first opportunity I leave the marked trail going down and makes my way up through the undergrowth until I find the trail again, with a ribbon blazing. So, lawless in Songnisan. From here, the trail goes through a tricky and treacherous terrain, which according to the guidebook provides the hiker with both physical and navigational obstacles. I feel my heart beating a little bit faster than usual now. The path treads through what is called Gaegumeongbawi, where the cliffs and boulders forms a maze of rocks. In between, it pulls me out into open sight from vigilant eyes from Munjangdae above. I sneak ahead, do not want to be seen, the penalty of being caught is high (500$).

View from the path through the sometimes tricky and treacherous Gaegumeongbawi. The path going down to the entrance to Songnisan at Osong is below.

It is said that challenges builds your character, so I build a lot of character on this day. There are a lot of small gaps between cliffs and rocks, going both up and down, that I cannot get through with the backpack on my back, so I have to drag it behind me or push it ahead of me at times. It is a demanding, but rewarding task. The backpack receives most of the punishment. Navigationally there is not so much trouble, I am apparently not alone in breaking the prohibition, there are enough ribbons fluttering around to get by. At Ipseokbawi, the demanding section is left behind me. But even though it was tough going through it, the walk was magnificent and a spectacular one. From here to Bamtijae the trail is returning back to its more normal self (still closed).

Through Gaegumeongbawi, the trail often went up and down small openings between the boulders and cliffs, with ropes for aid. Here I had to push my backpack up first.

From Bamtijae to Neuljae the walk is a not so exciting walk, but that conception is probably affected by the splendid section I have just walked. Which I can look back towards from a nameless peak on the way, with the rest of Songnisan as a background. I take a wrong turn just before I arrive at Neuljae and ends up walking between some farms instead, dogs barking, before I arrive at the road which I follows up to the pass. A car is parked there, I wonder for some time if it is some park rangers that are on the lookout for me. Who knows, but I doubt it. It has gone dark now, so I do not stay long at the pass, I take a quick look at the sanshingak and then continue walking further on the road to find the Cheonghwasan Hyugeso. My plan is to camp here, but I need food and provisions.

Here I look back at the route I have navigated through after Munjangdae, which you can see almost in the middle of the picture on the spine of Songnisan. The road that the trail crosses at Bamtijae is barely discernible.

I find the hyugeso, but there is only a restaurant here and not a store anymore. I decide to call for a taxi to take me down to Hwabukmyeon. This day has provided both physical and navigational challenges, now I meet the next challenge, communication. I get contact with Hwabukmyeon taxi, but now the people at the hyugeso has decided to help me. Without me understanding what they are saying, and they me. One of the people that runs the place eventually ends up driving me down to the village, somewhat reluctantly it appears, I manage without luck to make him understand that it is not necessary. I do not want to be of bother. But he is smiling when I am thanking him as good as I can when we are in Hwabukmyeon.

Neuljae. The stele at the pass.

In Hwabukmyeon they are arranging a place in a minbak for me, with a friendly host. Tired I am probing the place in search of a place to eat, but the serving seems to be closed on all the places, so I buy me some food (and provisions) in a store and prepares dinner at the minbak instead. What a day, hard, but fantastic. Lawless in Songnisan.

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