Saga // day 3 // Tautertjønnet - Svæltjønnet

Saga, day 3.
Distance: 23.5km (70.5km).

As expected the sky is grey and heavy in the morning, but no rain had materialized yet. From my haunt in the Gopollfjellet mountain, the trail will continue across the treeless landscape and reach the highest point at around 1100m, before it descends down to the large marshy area of Gopollmyrene. The Vetåbua cabin lies at the end of the marshes, surrounded by mountain birch forest. It then ascends up into the bare mountain again, reaching towards the Jammerdalsbu cabin, but I believe I will not go as far as that today. Especially if it will be raining.

Tautertjønnet lake in the morning on the third day, a wet day awaiting me.

Sombre is the mood as I head up into the fog, breakfast done and all the gear packed and wrapped up. How a landscape takes on a complete different appearance when the clouds are down. In itself, hiking in the fog is not bad, walking with a feeling of being up in the heath and moors with mystical beings unseen in the fog. An atmosphere of its own. No rain when I started walking, but I have not ventured far before the first drops starts to keep me with company.

Mist over the Gopollfjellet mountain.

No far view of the horizon after passing over the highest point and beginning the descent towards the marshland below. Instead the lower areas are spreading out underneath the clouds, only as far as the closest hills. Lonesome pastures, small cabins and mountain farms are scattered sparsely around. The descent is gentle for the feet, but gusty for the upper part of the body.

View of mist and marshes from the Gopollfjellet mountain.

Bjørgeseter.

It is all quiet when I come down to the pastures at Bjørgeseter. Although I can see a car parked, there are no signs of anybody present. The only sounds are the wind and the rain. A monument is erected here, commemorating the first airdrop from England during the war, on the 24th of January 1943.

Boardwalk across the Gopollmyrene marshes.

Crossing over the Gopollfjellet mountain was mostly pleasant, despite the rain, but down at Bjørgeseter I have become colder due to the rain and temperature. It does not get better crossing over the large marshy area of Gopollmyrene, even though the scenery is quite beautiful in this weather. The surface is almost wet all the way across, so I am grateful for the number of boardwalks involved to cross the marshes.

A horned tree at Gopollmyrene.

On what appears like an island between the marshes, the path goes through gnarled trees.

An interlude with sparse mountain woods, walking over a tiny bridge and passing by rivers feels like an island in the midst of the marsh. Then entering yet another line of boardwalks crossing over the marsh, leading the direction towards the hills that disappears in the clouds. The only beings seeing my approach, being sheep.

Path between the marshes.

Another boardwalk across the marshes.

Vetåbua lies a couple of hundred meters away from the trail. Another typical Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT) cabin, with a view of the Gopollfjellet mountain from its windows. I am cold by the time I arrive, so it is good to get inside for a short respite from the weather. I am not going to stay at the cabin, but it would be a lie to say I would like to during the time I am inside the cabin. During the time I am at the cabin, the weather is at its worst outside and rain is pounding down.

River near the Vetåbua cabin.

The Vetåbua cabin.

It has abated a little when I leave. The scenery is similar as to the entrance to the cabin, but soon it opens up and a misty and foggy moorlands disappears ahead of me. I arrive at a small lake, Buduppen, with the other side visible, but nothing much beyond that. It might not be very pleasant walking in wet, foggy and blustery conditions, but the fog do adds a special atmosphere to the landscape. Shortly after the lake, there is a small open hut that can be used by hikers, Måsåbua.

Besides sheep, cows was the only other signs of life that I saw on this day.

Through the Fremre Trolldalen valley (aptly named as a troll is a mythical being), the trail follows a path through mountain woods. In the mist, the mountain woods becomes shrouded in the mystical, mythical and magical corners of your imagination. Unseen fantasy beasts walks unheeded past you. Trees takes on other shapes and forms. Your ear believes it hears voices that are not voices.

A small bridge at Buduppen.

Buduppen lake.

Part of the trail through the following marshy area of the Indre Trolldalen valley is difficult to follow, with few waymarks, low visibility and sheep as passive bystanders. After a while walking unsure if I am on the correct way, on what was supposed to be a 'road', but what hardly even resembles a path, I spot a familiar red T again. The fog thickens as I climb higher up and arrive at the junction where the Rondanestien long distance trail comes in from the right. The two trails will mostly follow the same paths from now on, with some minor variations.

Måsåbua, this is an open hut that can be used by passing by hikers, but unfortunately quite untidy when I looked inside it.

Now above the tree line, most of the scenery is obscured by the fog. The path is however clear. A campervan left alone on a parking lot is typical of this day, a ghost of the civilization, no one around. Emerging from the foot path, the Saga trail follows the Saubu mountain road, a gravel track now surrounded by heather peering up into the clouds. Cars are parked outside the old mountain farm at Saubu, but as before, no signs of life are visible or heard.

Walking through an enchanted woods.

Misty birch woods.

The path crosses over the river behind Saubu on a bridge before venturing into the thickness of the fog. The rain has subsided as I walk through this monochrome and ghostlike world. When I reach the Svæltjønnet lake, whose shore on the other side I cannot see, I am content. Finding a spot close to the water, I pitch my tent. Thankfully no rain at this time, only the moisture from the mist. After arranging myself inside, I lie down and rest, getting warmth back in my body. Nothing to see outside anyway.

Not much, but some of the trail went on gravel tracks today, here at the Almenningsvegen road.

Sheep in the mist.

Eventually, I have to go out. Dinner is calling and as my tent is too small to fire up the stove inside of, I have to go out. Gusty outside, the water of the lake is still vanishing into the grey nothingness. I prepare my freeze-dried dinner and a cup of coffe, which I consume inside my tent.

Lone campervan in the fog.

Saubu.

This has been another solitary walk. Today I saw and heard no one else out there. Only me and the fog and rain. Warm inside my tent, the day does not feel that bad. And I also believe that days with inclement weather is somewhat necessary to get variations when doing long distance trails. You need contrasts to the sunny days. And those days are often among those days you remember the most, but as with everything else, you do not want to overdo it, though.

In the mist between Saubu and the Svæltjønnet lake.

As said, a good day in the end. Hopefully, though, the weather will be better when I look out of my tent come tomorrow morning.

My tent at the Svæltjønnet lake.

<< Tautertjønnet // day 2Veslefjell // day 4 >>

Saga // day 2 // Hornsjø - Tautertjønnet

Saga, day 2.
Distance: 31.8km (47.0km).

If you walk from mountain cabin to mountain cabin, the next stage on the Saga trail will be from Hornsjø to Djupslia, but I have no intention of staying in a cabin tonight. The plan is to go to the Djupslia cabin, stock up on supplies and continue for an hour or so, determining where to stay as I go.

Morning at Hornsjø.

From Hornsjø to Djupslia, the walk will be between 900 and 1000 meters altitude. At first it will be partially marshy, but also through mountain forests, going past idyllic ponds. The rest of the walk to the cabin will be more open terrain, with a mixture of dry mountain ridges and bogs, passing by the pastures at Gullbringen, Vedemslia and Brettdalen. After Djupslia, the trail will climb up to Åstkyrkja, before going down and into an area of small creeks and wet surfaces, followed by the climb up into the Gopollen mountain.

Leaving Hornsjø Høyfjellshotell.

Koltjønnet.

The sun rising up from behind the hills in the east is waking me up in the morning, heralding a nice day weatherwise. Leaving Hornsjø Høyfjellshotell, the path is leading me over the small hill above the hotel. The walk is on a pleasant and dry-shod path through sparse trees and a heathery surrounding. Mostly dry until the small lake of Koltjønnet, but the path becomes more wet afterwards, especially through some of the large areas of marsh after the lake.

The Saga trail over Øyerfjellet passes by small ponds on its way.

I have been hiking in both Rondane and Dovre before, but this is a new mountain area to me, I have never been hiking here before, so each step around a corner brings with a sense of excitement. Not boasting the imposing peaks of those mountain ranges, this is still a lovely hike.

Going over wet and marshy areas.

At Snauskallen.

Climbing up the Sjøsæterfjellet mountain to the Snauskallen top (1030) and its highest top at 1049m, however, let me behold the peaks of Rondane rising up to the north of me, as well as the jagged line of peaks in Jotunheimen to the north-west. The trail does not go up to the top of these two mountains, though, but it is well worth the climb. The weather is nice, but not altogether clear. It is great to see those peaks waiting for me in the horizon. I had hoped for good weather, so that I could see those mountains increase in size as I get closer, but the forecast is not on my side.

View of Rondane from Sjøsæterfjellet.

Back on the trail, the path continues on the same mix of marshy surface, mountain woods and past small lakes, interspersed with the occasional boardwalk at times. This is a landscape to feel relaxed in. The small climbs there are, are situated around the pastures and cabins at Gullbringen and Vedemslia. Later on, I can also walk with the view of the Rondane in the line of sight.

At the top of Sjøsæterfjellet.

Passing through mountain forests on the way.

At the Brettdalsvatnet lake I find a large and solid wooden table with benches, a good spot for lunch, especially as my stomach has made some complaints. The saboteurs from the Norwegian Resistance Movement passed by here on their escape after having done the Norwegian heavy water sabotage (known in Norway as 'Tungtvannsaksjonen') of the Vemork power station in Rjukan.

Boardwalk across a small marsh.

From Brettdalsvatnet, the path climbs up past cabins and old mountain farms. The journey over to the Djupen lake, where the Djupslia mountain cabin is located, is an enjoyable walk. There is construction work down at the Djupen lake, a new cabin are beginning to take shape. To get to the DNT cabin at Djupslia, you have to leave the path for a couple of hundred meters. On the gate to the Djupslia mountain farm there is a signpost clearly informing hikers that it is not the DNT cabin, probably many have mistaken it for the DNT cabin.

Looking back over a marsh and boardwalk across it from Vedemslia.

Above old farm at Brettdalen, rain in the horizon.

While planning the hike of the Saga trail, one of the issues was food, a recurring theme when doing long distance trails. If staying at the cabins, food is no problem, you will find it there. However, if you plan to camp, there are not many food stores available on the trail. In fact, there are none, but as the trail passes by some self-serviced cabins, you can buy provisions there. In the later part of the trail, though, most of the cabins are staffed. And they seldom sell food supplies, usually only selling meals to the hikers staying at the cabins.

Towards Djupslia.

My original idea was then to do the trail in reverse, starting at the Snøheim cabin. By doing so, I could carry with me food for the first days, when the trail mostly passes by staffed cabins, and then buy supplies for the last part of the trail on the self-serviced cabins. In the end, I opted to start at Nordseter, and carrying with me the food I need for the last days, buying food the first days on the self-serviced cabins. I will also spend some nights at cabins, so I do not to worry about those days.

Djupen.

Djupslia cabin, the first DNT self-serviced cabin on the trail.

At Djupslia I buy dinner for tonight and some additional food for breakfast and lunch. I also meet two members of the local DNT association who are here to check up on the cabin. The walk has mostly been very solitary so far, so it is nice to meet someone else. It is a nice enough cabin, typical of the Norwegian Trekking Association, and it has canoes that you can use if you stay here.

View towards west from Åstkyrkja.

Above the cabin lies Åstkyrkja (1057m), a mountain with a curious rock formation at the top of it. It is a large rock that has a cairn stacked up on top of it, only that it is positioned at one end of the rock. With the cairn, the rock takes on the shape of a church, hence the name I surmise. 'Kyrkja' means church in Norwegian. In front of the rock there is also a stone altair and carvings into the rock and altair. I also meet a woman here who says her mother had a habit of taking down the crosses that was put up on the rock too, saying that there was enough crosses in the world, with no need for it here too (but the cross attached to the rock now is still there).

The Åstkyrkja ridge.

Åstkyrkja.

The light is wonderful when I arrive. Combined with the shape of the hill and the views in the horizon, I get a feeling of being back on Cross Fell in England, while doing the Pennine Way last year. I have to walk further out on the hill, to get a good view of the Goppoltjernet lake below and the Jotunheimen peaks in the distance. The definite highlight of the day.

The cross and 'church tower' of Åstkyrkja.

With the 'church' watching over my steps, I head towards the pastures of the Tauteren mountain farm. Time waits for no one as I walk next to a string of marshy areas, going in and out of forested sections, with the surface mostly dry. The hour hand is pointing towards the seven number on the clock face, having moved one notch on the scale since I left the Djupslia cabin. I begin to look at the map for possible places to camp. Arriving at the Tauteren farm, I have made my choice; heading for the Tautertjønnet lake further up in the Gopollfjellet mountain. A breed of hairy cows are grazing inside the fences of the pasture.

Forest path between Åstkyrkja and Gopollfjellet.

Looking back from above Tauteren.

The scenery is now for the first time on the trail taking on a more high mountains look, climbing above the tree line. A little bit away from the path, a herd of goats are clustered together, with many curious eyes following my steps. Clouds has assembled on the sky, and slowly are moss and heather taking over the vegetation. At the Tautertjønnet lake (1090m) I find my camp spot. A stony ground underneath the thin layer of moss makes it hard to get the tent plugs pitched, but I make it in the end. It is a good place, looking over the peaceful lake.

Heading up into the Gopollfjellet mountain.

At Gopollfjellet.

Although you would not really call it a proper sunset, it is nice watching the sun disappear behind Høgtinden while I prepare dinner. The clouds become lit up by the last light of the sun, eventually turning the color of the lake red by the reflection of the sky. It is a nice evening of the first full day on Saga, a good day on the trail. Tomorrow it is going to rain.

Sky after sunset above Høgtinden.

Evening light above Tautertjønnet.

<< Hornsjø // day 1Svæltjønnet // day 3 >>

Saga // day 1 // Nordseter - Hornsjø

Saga, day 1.
Distance: 15.2km (15.2km).

Saga is a long distance trail in Norway going from Lillehammer (Nordseter) to one of the most iconic mountains in Norway, Snøhetta, ending at the cabin below the summit, Snøheim. The trail is about 220km long, passing over the Øyerfjellet, Ringebufjellet, Rondane and Dovre mountain ranges on its course. Rondane and Dovre is two of the most iconic and scenic mountain ranges in Norway. It is a hike that will take you from its humble beginning at Nordseter to the mountain cathedral at its end at Snøhetta, the highest mountain in Norway outside Jotunheimen.

Near the start of the Saga trail at Nordseter, a picture of how it looked there before.

The Saga trail does not follow its own set of waymarks, instead you have to know which path the trail takes, but on most of its course it will follow the red T waymarks used by the Norwegian Trekking Assocation, DNT (Den Norske Turistforeningen). It is also engineered so that you can end its stage at a place to stay, mostly being DNT's own mountain cabins. Which means there is a sort of a commercial interest in it, but it does make it possible to do the trail for those not wanting to sleep in a tent.

Looking back with a view of the Nevelfjell mountain in the back.

On the way on the first day on Saga, Raudtjern below.

To get to the trailhead, I take a train to Lillehammer and from there a bus up to the cabin area of Nordseter. As I will spend some time getting to the trailhead, I will have a short walk ahead of me on the first day, although I have planned to start immediately upon arrival. The weather forecast for this day was pretty much abysmal, with a 22mm precipitation, so I bailed out and opted to stay at the Hornsjø Høyfjellshotell on the first night.

Skjerketjern lake.

Over the heath towards Nysætra.

Walking out of the bus, I am met by a chill and gusty wind with rain in it, but not nearly as much rain as forecasted. The start of the Saga trail is quite inconspicuous, with no signposts informing where the trail begins from. There is only a sign with Hornsjøen on it, but I know that that is where I am heading.

Cabin at Nysætra.

From Nordseter, the landscape is that of the area a little below the treeline. Mostly forest in the beginning, but soon opening up to a landscape with more space between the trees, giving way to heather and bushes. On the first day, I will never get higher up than about 989m (at Mellsjøhøgda), but these lower areas will provide a gentle approach to the higher mountains later on. Despite the grey weather and the somewhat limited views, it is a nice start of my hike. With the grey lending an atmospheric tune to the surroundings.

Scenery from the lower lying mountains of Øyerfjellet.

Blustery over the Mellsjøen lake.

Although I did not became aware of it until I arrived at my destination for the day, I took the wrong route after Nysætra. Wrongfully marked as Saga on my papermap, I follow the gravel road going around the Mellsjøen lake, but the actual route is going towards the Reinsvatnet lake and Kriksfjellet mountain. However, when I compare the two routes on my map, I believe the route I went would be more scenic. With the only exception being the possibility to climb up to the summit of Kriksfjellet at 1052m.

Boathouses at Mellsjøen.

The abysmal rain precipitation never materialized. There was rain at times of course, but it only felt like it was much due to the strong winds. Especially on the eastern side of the Mellsjøen lake, where I got my jacket tightly wrapped around me. Set between the gusts of rain was also periods of blue sky and sun.

View from the top of Mellsjøhøgda over Mellsjøen lake towards Sjusjøen.

Looking back from Mellsjøhøgda.

Being at the start of the trail, the route also passes by several cabin areas. Thankfully they never feel too vulgar and imposing. And they are mostly centered around Nordseter in the beginning, Nysætra and the Mellsjøen lake.

Rainbow from Mellsjøhøgda, Snultra and the Agntjernet lake below.

The highlight of the walk came at the top of Mellsjøhøgda. Where you can get a nice view of every direction, but the view with the rainbow in the north took the prize.

Boardwalk towards Snultra.

Agntjernet lake.

With the exception of the gravel track from Nysætra and around Mellsjøen, the walking has been on footpaths. The paths has been dry and good to walk on, but it changed on the final part towards Hornsjøen. After the Matfartjernet lake, the path turned boggy and wet at times. Old and new looking mountain farms and cabins meets me when I arrive at the area around the Hornsjøen lake. It is a quiet atmosphere lying around the place.

Leaving Snultra.

Matfartjernet lake.

Upon arrival, Hornsjø Høyfjellshotell is giving me something of a The Shining feeling, or rather an Overlook Hotel feeling. At first, the place appear deserted, but then I spot someone partially hidden from sight smoking. It is is quite big, but now nearly empty, being only 10 guests here. It boasts a large, round and (of course) empty dance floor. The hotel also appear to be worn and tired. To top it all, the owner is apparently living at a luxury address in Mexico and is being wanted by the Danish tax authorities (this is information that I however just overheard from other guests). I kind of love it.

A derelict farm building above the Hornsjøen lake.

The hotel is also having a bunkhouse with a cheaper price than its normal rooms, promoted by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT), so I had booked a bed there. Due to the pandemic the bunkhouse is closed, however, so they had upgraded my booking to a single room instead. After dinner, I go out for a walk as the sun is setting. It has all but cleared up now, and there is nice light over the mountains.

Hornsjøen lake.

Evening light over Koltjønnet lake.

A short walk was the beginning of my adventure on the Saga trail, but it was a pleasant walk through the lower lying Øyerfjellet mountains. Mixed weather today, but I was spared the heavy rainfall the forecast had promised me. Later on the more majestic peaks of Rondane will rise in the horizon as I get closer, and so this day was a perfect way to ease into the trail.

Moon over Hornsjø.

Tautertjønnet // day 2 >>