GR20 // day 12 // Vizzavona

Day of rest and no particular plans, so I sleep late. Somewhere in the back of my head there is a small thought of going up to Monte d'Oro and back to l'Onda again, I leave the thought alone.

The Hôtel I Laricci in Vizzavona.

It's quiet outside, as opposed to yesterday evening. I decide to go for a leisurely walk up to the Cascades des Anglais. The ponds and the waterfalls are still there. Corsican fairies are still trying to seduce me out into the water, but I'm not lured out into the water today either. The night in a good and warm bed did me good, but the cold hasn't quite let go yet.

Cascades des Anglais.

I'm more relaxed now and enjoy the view of the river more than yesterday. On the way upwards I pass several other walkers on their way from l'Onda. The sun twinkles in the clear water. I go almost up as far as the bridge that goes over the river that runs through the Cascades des Anglais, l'Agnone Ruisseau. I still wonder where the Bergeries de Porteto is, I couldn't find it yesterday either.

Waterfall in the Cascades des Anglais with Punta del Ceppo in the background.

I repeat myself and take another beer and something to eat at the bar by the bottom of the waterfalls. It's many people here today also. Afterwards I take the forest road that goes towards Hôtel Monte d'Oro. There is some sort of a parkour park besides the road, a group is on their way up into one of the routes. The hotel is a cozy building almost entwined with plants, which almost gives it a kind of haunted house look.

The waterfalls haven't got their name just by being a waterfall.

Vizzavona is sort of the midpoint between the north and the south; it's also a hub between several buses and the train that slowly goes by between Ajaccio and Bastia. A little bit of a weird place actually. A lot of houses looks like they've been abandoned, possible a place where people has a summerhouse of a sort.

Hôtel Monte d'Oro.

In the evening I meet again Matthew, Andrew and Paul, the tree boys from England I'd met earlier. They told me that their last two nights had been quite intense. Paul had woken up in the middle of the night by a tent landing on top of his own tent. Heavy wind and a lot of rain had made the nights strenuous for the people at Petra Piana and l'Onda. It has later come to my ear that there was one guy that had been thrown around with his tent at Petra Piana, just close by a cliff. At the bottom of the cliff were a lot of tents that had blown over the edge during the night.

The ruins of the Grand Hôtel de la Forêt.

The English boys had taken the path that goes over Monte d'Oro and had a fantastic view from the summit. I start to regret that I didn't do it. Going to bed in the evening I decide to change my plan, I will make my path up to 1469 meters above Vizzavona tomorrow.

<- VizzavonaMonte d'Oro ->

GR20 // day 11 // l'Onda - Vizzavona

Distance: 11km, altitude at start: 1431m, altitude at end: 920m, highest point: 2100m.

I wake up in the middle of the night that it's blowing heavily outside. Voices in the dark outside. People are apparently out to secure their tents better. I can hear a tent that has been taken by the wind flying by the other tents outside at high speed. My tent stands rock solid. I creep back into the sleeping bag, more worried about the cold than by the wind.

There is a lot of activity in the camp in the morning. The tents that have played dragons in the wind during the night are all gathered together down by one of the fences, all of the type that you can rent at the refuge. No one rented these this night anyway. The wind is quieter now in the morning hours, but it's still blowing quite a lot.

Up towards Bocca Muratello from Refuge de l'Onda.

Then my day is blown away, but not by the wind. But by my camera, which appears quite dead. I'm in a little bit of shock actually. Words can't describe what I feel, to me taking pictures while I'm out and walking is a way of process immediate memories. Whatever I do, I can't get the camera to life. It's quite clear that it's the battery that is the cause, I can only guess at the reason. I fear the worst. That the battery is broken, but I hope that it's only gone flat during the night (though it was almost fully charged yesterday evening).

Memorial of an alpinist that died trying to do the GR20 on skis in April for a couple of years ago. He disappeared in the gorge above Refuge de l'Onda, together with his dog.

I'm so frustrated when I leave the Bergeries de l'Onda that I start out at a very high pace; I need to walk my frustration out of my body. And doing so, walking all too fast pass the magnificent landscape that is being revealed on the ridge above the cabin. It's significantly more wind up on the ridge, giving me some few additional lifts on the way upwards. Below goes the valley down towards Bergeries de Tolla, which is hidden behind the trees far down below from here. Behind me some wanderers are going over 'le crêtes' towards Petra Piana.

Further up I pass a memorial for an alpinist that died here for a couple of years ago, when he tried to do the GR20 on skis during winter. Which is sad, but it's kind of sadder to hear that he took his dog with him in death. The wind lifts me the last meters and I come up to Bocca Muratello where the sun is awaiting me with its warm light.

View back towards Petra Piana and the mountains behind, the path over 'le crêtes' visible on the ridge.

My mood is a little better when I'm up at the pass and can look out over the valley that leads down to Vizzavona, and halfway on the GR20. The sun is also helping, and after all, it's not the end of the world. But, still, it's an abstract shadow in front of today's great weather. Instead, I use my cellular phone to take some pictures, but that camera isn't very good.

Monte d'Oro is now even mightier above me to the east of me and the other wanderers gathered here at the pass. And it is then I hear someone saying 'it was you' behind me, 'it was you that sat outside our tent last night and talked about the stars'. I turn around and find myself looking into the smiling face of a girl (from Netherland) that I've got to know a little bit earlier on the GR20. After yesterday's evening consisting of a little bit more beer and wine than planned, I ended up sitting outside with two others and a bottle of wine, and apparently talking a lot about the stars.

The ridge up towards Monte d'Oro, with the summit above. I let go of my original plan of going to the top. Kind of stupid, the view would have been great.

I start walking down towards the valley a little bit happier at heart, but I drop my original plan of going to the top of Monte d'Oro. Something in me wants to get down fast to check if it's just the battery that is flat. I receive a lot of compassion from other wanderers on the way down. The mountains on each side of me just look down at me with no emotion at all. The path is now going back and forth down in the valley. Trees are getting closer and closer before I can see leaves above in addition to the blue sky.

Looking back up at Bocca Muratello.

A river emerges between white and grey stones; I'm at the start of the Cascades des Anglais. It's quite tempting to take a bath, but I seems to a have caught a cold, however a small one. That I'm not far from Vizzavona is confirmed by the number of tourists beside the river. The English waterfalls is a common tourist attraction, it's not hard to see why.

The valley down towards Vizzavona, steep down towards the little village that separates the northern and southern parts of the GR20.

Mountainsides on all sides in the valley.

I stop for a beer and something to eat at the bar that lies at the bottom of the waterfalls. It's now just one hour left of walking before I will be at Vizzavona and the end of the northern part of the GR20. The last part takes me through the woods before my feet touches asphalt yet again.

And then I'm going into Vizzavona, I can see the sign for the GR20 north and south. The road leads down to the railway station. I pass by a large and majestic building that lies in ruins, with trees growing in the windows. There is a camping area for wanderers next to the railway station. But I haven't planned to sleep in a tent now, due to the cold I've caught. Instead I treat myself to a room at the Hôtel I Laricci. That is, the first thing I do is to check if I'm able to charge the camera battery.

Cascades des Anglais with Punta del Ceppo in the background.

The relief is indescribably when I see the charger status on the display of my camera turn to life. I Lariccia is a charming little hotel with squeaking floors, each floor has its own color. Blue in the first floor, red in the second floor, I receive a red key. First hot shower since Haut Asco.

Refreshed and with my mood back, I go to take a closer look at the dilapidated building. The ruins is the former Grand Hôtel de la Forêt, not much left of the splendor of old times. I go down to a bar next to the railway station where I meet up with some wanderers I've met on the way, the beer tastes real good. I get news that one of the Englishmen that I've met on the GR20 came down to Vizzavona with a nasty cough and has decided to go to Corte to see a doctor. His tent was flooded with water during the period of heavy rain earlier; apparently he's never quite recovered from that.

The ruins of the former Grand Hôtel de la Forêt. Nothing much that reminds about old glory now.

I almost feel like I'm a veteran from a typical American war movie where I'm sitting by the bar, sitting and watching as a party of new arrivals of walkers is getting off a bus. Know that many of them probably are thinking, 'and now what?'

The railway station in Vizzavona, clouds are covering the mountains above. On the way to Calvi I stepped out of the train here and took and look around. In my mind was the thought that I in a couple of days I would be coming down from the mountains and come here. Now I'm here.

I eat dinner at the hotel, which is included in the price. In the evening it starts to rain, quite a lot. I'm happy to sleep inside now in a good bed, and not outside in the tent. I've finished the northern part of the GR20, and quite satisfied with that. Tomorrow I'm having a rest day, my body needs that. Mysterious lights in the hillside above the hotel.

<- l'OndaVizzavona ->

GR20 // day 10 // Petra Piana - l'Onda

Distance: 11km, altitude at start: 1842m, altitude at end: 1431m, highest point: 1842m.

I come down from Monte Ritondu in bright sunshine, still high after the climb to the summit. At Petra Piana the wanderers from yesterday has been replaced with new ones. After a break in the sun I take down the tent and pack together my backpack. From Petra Piana I have two choices to choose from, 'Par la vallée' or 'Par les crêtes'. 'Par les crêtes' will take me over the ridge to Refuge de l'Onda and is the high-level variant, this path beckon with a great view from the ridge, in addition to being faster.

On the way down from Petra Piana. The path goes down towards the valley and through the woods before it goes upwards again to Refuge de l'Onda.

'Par la vallée' however goes down in the woods in the valley below the ridge, but is also the original route of the GR20. I choose to go down in the valley. From Monte Ritondu I've already seen most of the view that is available, so a walk along a river through a pleasant forest is more tempting.

A GR-marker almost overgrown.

And by doing so I adds yet some height meters to what I've already has gained by going down from Monte Ritondu, and I can with safety say that it is steep down as well. Its nice then that in some parts the path is build up by a nice fence made of stone on one side. I walk past Bergeries de Gialgi; some other hikers are passing by in the opposite direction. Down in the valley I can look up towards Petra Piana high above, but the cabin and the campsite is hidden for my eyes.

The path going down to the valley, it looks like a stone fence has been built by the side of it.

I'm walking past ruins of old stone huts, their demise frozen in the tracks of times past. Ruisseau de Manganellu is running in twists and turns down the valley at my right side, trees increases in scale and size. Soon the forest is all around me, a peaceful and relaxing walk. The time flows silently through the sunrays among the trees.

View back up towards Petra Piana, now hidden from sight.

Green pools beckons from the river. And finally, there is no way around it. I have to get into the water. The water is cold, but refreshing. Afterwards I sit on the rocks and warms up in the sun. Above me the wind is blowing almost soundlessly through the leaves.

Bathing in the Ruisseau de Manganellu. The river with its green and beckoning pools was too tempting.

Through the forest on my way to Bergeries de Tolla.

I arrive at the Bergeries de Tolla. There are autumn colors on the ground, two horses grazes free outside the cabin. It is a tranquil little place, but there are probably more people here during the summer. It is a good time to take a break; I buy myself a cold Pietra and eat some food. The horses position themselves just outside the gate and are looking in anticipation at me, they are probably hungry they as well.

Two horses in a pasture outside a small summer farm. Autumn colors on the ground.

Towards Refuge de l'Onda it goes upwards again. Here the forest are denser, making it look gloomier than it is. The trail is turning towards the mountains again. I walk clear off the woods and arrive at the fenced camping area at Bergeries de l'Onda. Here it is both an auberge and a refuge; the cabin itself lies a little bit above the camping area and the auberge. When the whole herd of goats comes down from the mountain you understand why there is a fence around the camping area.

Bergeries de Tolla, where you can buy typical Corsican food, like chees and sausage.

I eat dinner at the auberge. They serve soup as a starter, mutton as primary dish, and then cheese and fruit as dessert. One of the best dinners so far. It gets quite cheery around the table during the dinner. I haven't seen Matthew, Andrew and Paul, the three boys from England I've met, after I've came to l'Onda. So during the dinner I start to wonder if something has happened, they should have arrived. Later I get to know that they choose to stay back at Petra Piana in the great weather.

Gloomy through the forest on the way to Refuge de l'Onda.

A great day goes towards the end, and the longest day on the journey so far. I have a vague memory of a starry sky when I go to bed inside my tent.

The camping area at Refuge de l'Onda, goats surrounding the area.

<- Monte RitonduVizzavona ->

GR20 // day 10 // Monte Ritondu

Distance: 6km, altitude at start: 1842m, altitude at end: 1842m, highest point: 2622m.

Over Petra Piana lies Monte Ritondu, the second highest mountain on Corsica. Even so, you cannot see the summit from the cabin. The areas around the mountain are of old said to be places with lots of bandits. Me, I'm going to the top to steal some view.

A field of grass on the way up to Monte Ritondu from Petra Piana.

After a breakfast consisting of tea and some really sweet slices of white bread with jam I leave the tent standing and start going from the cabin with only my little day pack on my back. As before the weather is nice at the start of the day. It's going up that matters and it doesn't take long time before you can look down at Petra Piana from a bird's eye-view. The camping area has a lot less tents now.

The cairns bring me up to a little pass. At the pass, I can finally look up to the summit of Monte Ritondu. A grey wall of stone that I have to ascend. Behind me I can see the ridge that the alpine variant to Refuge de l'Onda from Petra Piana goes over.

Lavu Bellebone.

I arrive at a lake with Ritondu reflecting in the surface, Lavu Bellebone. This water is frozen most of the year due to its location at 2321m. It's a fitting place for a break before I start on the last steep climb up towards the top.

View from Monte Ritondu. Paglia Orba towering to the left in the picture, Monte Cinto towering to the right closer to the center of the picture.

The path goes over scree and larger stones up towards Col du Fer de Lance. Lavu Bellebone lays left cold below me, on the other side of the water a large herd of goats are walking. Further on the path consists of more climbing than before. Nearly at the top, only some large boulders over me, I arrive at a small shelter that has been built at the top. Inside it's empty, and chilly.

Lavu Bellebone lies blue and cold beneath the summit.

The path is twisting around the top again before the last part is overcome by some easy climbing. Then I'm standing at the top of Corsica again, at 2622 meters. I'm at the top so early that the clouds haven't had the time to get here to hide the view, which is just great. To the north Paglia Orba and Monte Cinto is towering, it's a little hard to believe that you will look down at me from Monte Cinto. Far to the east I can see Corte with its characteristic castle at the top.

At the summit of Monte Ritondu, 2622m.

At the Bergeries de Vallone I got to know three boys from England and they've also hiked to the top. We stay at the summit for a time and enjoy the moment. Like me they've planned to go to Refuge de l'Onda afterwards.

On the way down again the herd of goats has had the time to walk to the spire that has the name Col du Fer de Lance. They stare stupidly at me when I'm coming climbing down from one of the ridges beneath the top. The sun is higher in the sky now when I'm on the way down and then lit up more of the surrounding countryside than on the way up.

A bird's eye-view of Refuge de Petra Piana.

Down by Petra Piana, people have already arrived from either Manganu or Onda. I shake my head a little bit; it really is some who stresses a lot to come as quickly as possible to the next place. The hike up to Monte Ritondu is maybe the finest summit bid so far, being the first time I could look uninterrupted out over Corsica with no clouds blocking the view.

<- Petra Pianal'Onda ->

GR20 // day 9 // Manganu - Petra Piana

Distance: 10km, altitude at start: 1601m, altitude at end: 1842m, highest point: 2225m.

After yet another cold night I wake up to one of the days that I've been looking forward to the most, the stage between Manganu and Petra Piana. The tent is soaking wet and dirty. Outside a clear sky beckons. Any traces of the horse that ran through the camping area the night before can't be found. Inside the cabin there is a lot of activity; people are milling around to get a seat for breakfast.

Up towards Bocca a le Porte. Mountain peaks are reflected in small waterholes in a little field above Refuge de Manganu.

I start to walk from Manganu relieved by the nice weather, where the path quickly gets steeper. I will now go up to what is the highest point on the main route of the GR20, Bocca a le Porte at 2225 meters. The sun hasn't yet risen up behind the mountains to the east of me, so it's a little bit chilly in the morning.

After walking for a little while I comes up to a little field of grass, here the grass is wet and soft to walk on. A small creek runs through the field, which will be the start of the Ruisseau de Zoicu. The mountains are reflected in small and deep ponds. The sun is lighting up the peaks that stretches towards the sky. I start on the last, and steep, ascent up towards the pass. Up there sunlight is beckoning. High up ice lies next to the path, created after yesterday's hail. Had it been snow, I wouldn't have let the opportunity go to make a snowball that I could throw at someone.

View from Bocca a le Porte.

And what a fantastic experience it is to come up to Bocca a le Porte. As I climb up on top of the ridge of the pass the sun is greeting me and I can feel heat spread over me at once. The view is spectacular. Before me the ridge is stretching further towards a horizon of pointed peaks. The Monte Ritondu massif rises majestically. And best of all, Lac de Capitellu and Lac du Melo. Like two shimmering eyes in the mountain they lie and gaze up towards the eternity. It's beautiful beyond any doubt.

The view takes my breath away and I have to sit down just to enjoy it alone. More hikers are appearing over the edge, and they all seem just as hypnotized as I. Some are taking this opportunity and heat to dry their sleeping bags. A rope is hanging down from Punta a e Porta, but I reject the idea of a climb to that summit. Instead another idea is starting to take hold over me.

Lac du Capitellu and Lac du Melo. Like two jewels in the mountains they lie and shine up towards where you move along the ridge high above.

The trail further along the ridge is yet another rollercoaster ride, with some scrambling thrown into it, some part I have to climb down by the aid of a chain. I can't help to stop several times to enjoy the view of the two magnificent lakes beneath. From where I stand it doesn't appear to be even one ripple on the surface. Behind me lies the pass, with lots of people spread around it.

Bocca a le Porte. The highest point on the main route of the GR20. People admiring the view.

I arrive at Breche de Capitellu (2090m) and the idea has taken complete hold over me. There is no way out, I make my way down towards Lac de Capitellu and Lac du Melo. And by that I'm leaving the GR20, for a while. From Breche de Capitellu there is a marked path down towards both of the waters; the trail then continues further down towards Bergeries de Grotelle at the end of the Restonica valley. From there you can get down to Corte. My idea doesn't extend that far though.

Lac du Capitellu. Down by the water. The mountainside goes straight down into the glassy water.

Down by Lac de Capitellu I look out over the glassy water, at the other side of the lake the mountainside extends straight up from the water. The lake lies at 1930 meters and are 42 meters deep, it can be frozen up to eight months a year. It appears cold now as well.

I continue down to Lac du Melo, which lies 200 meters down from Lac de Capitellu at 1711 meters with a depth of 15.5 meters. I eat lunch by the side of the water. Looking over the water I can follow the mountainside up towards Monte Ritondu. High up in the direction I came down from, the GR20 is going. From where I'm sitting you can only be impressed by the massive landscape that the trail goes through. Down here though, is it a lot more people, mostly tourists on a day visit from Corte.

Lac du Melo.

But since I've walked down, I also have to walk back up again. From Lac du Melo there is a path going up to Bocca a Soglia at 2052m. Up by the ridge and the GR20 I meet familiar faces again. Someone does shake their heads a little bit when they hear that I've gone down to the lakes. It was great to see the two lakes at close hand, but they also loose a little bit of their mythical character when you walk down close to them. However, I do not regret going down.

A mountain takes the opportunity to reflect itself in the clear waters of Lac du Melo.

The clouds have now announced their arrival, the sky gets paler. Further on the trail goes along the mountainside above Lac du Melo; the mountain across the vale is reflected in the water. Going to Bocca Muzzella I pass another nice little lake beneath me, Lac du Renosu. Cows are grazing on small peaks above. At Bocca Muzzela (or Col de la Haut Route as it also is known as) a couple are cooking lunch on their stove, it smells good. Monte d'Oro appears in the horizon.

Lac du Renosu.

Looking down at the Refuge de Petra Piana, I can see that a lot of people already have arrived. Anyway, I find a nice place to pitch my tent for the upcoming cold night, Petra Piana lies at 1842m. The place is positioned on top of a large shelf in the mountainsides below Monte Ritondu, the cabin itself a small and curious building. The facilities here don't differ from other places, in the queue for the shower you can hear other breathe heavily in the cold water.

View in the direction of Monte d'Oro and the ridge where the high-level variant to the Refuge de l'Onda goes.

Before the clouds obscures all sight from me I can look out over the forested valley below, where the GR20 continues to Refuge de l'Onda. It is starting to rain. Inside the gardiens hut there is a weather forecast telling me that I can look forward to four days with thunder. That gets me a little bit frustrated. Later it turns out it's a forecast from the previous week. That gets me a little bit relieved, that and a cold Pietra. The dinner is served on the terrace outside the hut with a cheerful mood around the table. The view is changing with the clouds that are drifting past.

A dark horizon seen from Petra Piana. Clouds descended upon the cabin in the afternoon.

A great day on the GR20 is over when I in the cover of the dark retreats into my one kilo tent. Even with that weight, the tent has an incredible large space inside to be a tent for 1-2 persons. I close my eyes and I can remember the day I first laid eyes on the two lakes, Lac de Capitellu and Lac du Melo

The gardien at Petra Pianas hut, with the terrace outside where the dinner was served.

<- ManganuMonte Ritondu ->

GR20 // day 8 // Ciottulu di I Mori - Manganu

Distance: 26km, altitude at start: 1991m, altitude at end: 1601m, highest point: 1991m.

A long and cold night lies behind me, now a long day lies ahead of me. The clouds from the evening before are gone and I wake up to a nice and clear morning. It's a lovely start of the day to look out of the tent and see the beautiful view of the Golo-valley.

Beautiful morning along the ridge to the west for Ciottulu di I Mori. At the top of the ridge I can look out towards Golfe de Porto.

From Ciottulu di I Mori the trail follows the ridge around a curve to the west, before it descends to the Golo-valley. There is another trail that goes straight down from the cabin that will join the GR20 down in the Golo-valley, but I choose not to go that way. The sun is rising over the Bocca di Foggiale and lightens up the verdant hill I'm walking on. From the top of the ridge I can look as far as the Golfe de Porto, and therein lies the reason for not taking the trail that goes straight down from the cabin. In addition there is still shade down in the valley.

Capu Tafunatu and Paglia Orba.

Behind me Paglia Orba is towering above; the mountain has changed its appearance from this side of the valley. Then the trail descends down into the land of the shadows again and I'm walking beside the pastures in the Golo-valley. Further up the ruins of the Bergeries de Tula lies like memories from the past. The vegetation gets lusher and soon the first of the Laricio trees are appearing. The Golo flows quietly past. Green forest covers more and more of the view. My knee is complaining a little bit in the start, but after a while they start to feel better.

I pass the Bergeries de Radule, a nice place where you can spend the night and get food. Though it was just closed the moment before I arrived. Then the trail enters a forest. The sounds of engines can be heard more and more clearly, I'm getting closer to the road (the D84 that leads to Corte) and Castel di Verghio. But first I will have a pleasant walk through the forest.

The Golo-valley in the direction of Ciottulu di I Mori.

Bocca San Petru. Occasional strong winds makes the trees bent and assume grotesque shapes.

Then I stand on the road, traces of civilization again. I'm walking down to the Hôtel Castel di Verghio, tired ski lifts on the other side of the road. The hotel is far from the most charming building I've seen. Anyway, I take a break by the store that also runs the camping place for the hikers. I feel that I'm glad I choose to stay at Ciottulu di I Mori. Additionally the hotel brings bad news, there is going to be a thunderstorm later on in the day.

View back in the direction of Paglia Orba. Clouds are covering the summit.

The thoughts of thunder stress me a little bit and I increase my pace when I leave Castel di Verghio and enter the forest again. It's uphill all the way up towards Bocca San Petru, but the trail is easy to walk on. Up at the pass there are a lot more clouds on all sides. At lot more wildlife as well, a pack of wild pigs are eating behind the icon at the top of the pass, snorting. The summit of Paglia Orba is covered by clouds.

Further up towards the foot of u Tritore the shapes of the trees bear witness that it could be heavy wind up here, they are bent in quite grotesque shapes. The next part is a nice walk along the ridge that is called Serra San Tomaghiu. Down in the valley I can discern the contours of the ugly hotel emerge from the woods.

The beautiful Lac du Ninu.

Reaching the Bocca â Reta, a flat pass with dry grass, I can feel the tension rise. I'm nearing the Lac du Ninu. I can also feel a raindrop on my skin. It looks like I'm running out of time to be able to enjoy my lunch by the side of the lake without being wet. The lake is the source of the Tavignanu-river, from here the water is running all the way down to Corte and then further on.

It's not hard to understand that many are putting Lac du Ninu high up on the list over the greatest sights along the GR20. The blue colored water is surrounded by verdant fields, with mountains stretching above them. Horses and cattle are grazing by the waterside. It's a popular place, for both tourists and locals. The lake lies at an altitude of 1743 meters. It's absolutely beautiful here; it would have been even more idyllic with a clear sky.

Horses by the Lac du Ninu. These ones came straight up to me where I sat trying to eat lunch.

Just when I'm about to start cutting up the sausage I'm having for lunch, I'm interrupted by a small horse. It walks quite brash and rude almost straight up to my face, clearly for want of food. When I'm finally able to shake it off me, five more are approaching. I surrender and evacuates to a place a little bit further away from the waterside.

View over to the Refuge de Manganu. Heavy clouds over the landscape.

Hikers and other people are walking around the lake on all sides. The grass is soft to walk on, but it's also quite wet. And it's going to get wetter apparently; the silence is broken by a large thunderclap. Raindrops are making small rings on the water. I finish up eating and start to walk towards Refuge de Manganu. Later when I'm looking back, there is blue sky over the lake.

The trail down towards the Bergeries de Vaccaghja is a pleasant walk through sparse trees. To the east a valley goes in the direction of the Refuge de Sega, the Tavignanu-valley and further on towards Corte. The Bergeries de Vaccaghja is an auberge mostly used by people on horsebacks. It's starting to rain when I'm taking shelter under the roof on the terrace. While I'm enjoying a Corsica Cola I'm looking through the rain towards Manganu, today's destination.

Refuge de Manganu.

There are a lot of people at Manganu, which makes for a little chaotic, but nice evening. In a short break from the downpour I get to pitch my tent, before it seconds later starts to pour down again. Inside the cabin there aren't enough spaces for everyone to sit down, but most of the people seem content to be sheltered from the rain. I can only imagine how it will be here during the summer when there are even more people. The rain turns into hail.

A dramatic sunset at Manganu, the horse more interested in us.

Later in the day there is a pause in the rain; small clouds are drifting along the mountains on all sides. People are going out. The sun is going down in a dramatic way beyond the mountain. Despite the rain and thunder at the end of the day, it turned out to be a nice day, though I stressed a little bit more than I should have. The stress was probably induced by the spell of bad weather earlier. Lac du Ninu was a highlight of the walk so far, even though I didn't get so much time there as I wanted.

The tent has held its ground and it's dry inside when I go to bed, outside it is dark and quiet. I hope for good weather tomorrow, for ahead of me lies one of the stages that I've really have been looking forward to. A horse runs at full speed through the camp, I'm not sure if I feel completely safe.

<- Paglia OrbaPetra Piana ->