This post will not be long one, as I will not go so much in detail of what I did in Tokyo on my return from the Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage and visits to Kōyasan, Nara and Kyoto. As what I did now follows less in the vein of what I did as a pilgrim in Japan.
Street in Tokyo in the evening.
At the Shinkansen everything far away is what you see the best of, everything close is more like a blur. The train ride back to Tokyo went without any notable things to report of, finding my hotel proved however to be more of a puzzle. I had booked a hotel in the Asakusa district close to the Sensōji temple. Feeling all kinds of emotions trembling through my body of my end of the Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage, my plan for the final time in Japan here in Tokyo was simple. I was not going to stress out to see anything.
Shutter art.
It also felt a little bit weird being back in the huge city, now at another district than before (Ginza). After installing myself at my hotel, I went out for dinner, having no clue to where I would go. That eventually lead me to the before-mentioned Sensōji temple, which was actually quite nice to see with its illuminated buildings. Now I am all in tourist, but it is fine. In a sort of old looking street next to the temple I come across a place serving okonomiyaki (I got the taste of it from Tomohiro-san).
Nightsky from Sensōji.
Sensōji pagoda and templegate.
On the next day my first attraction was a re-visit to the Sensōji temple, more of a coincidence than the plan. I just ended up at a place nearby for breakfast. The only real thing I had to do today, was to find a cool robot for my little niece, on request from my brother. Although, what kind of robot I was to find, I was unsure of. In Asakusa however, there is a street with wholesale toy vendors, so I gave that street a chance to prove its worth. It was not easy. Robots there are, but most of these are the manga and anime inspired warrior kind of robots. Not what I think is the best choice. I do find a robot that looks like a tin toy from the 50's, which can make a little flame due to a tiny spark at its chest.
An old looking street in Tokyo.
The pagoda of Sensōji.
Robot-hunting solved (hopefully), I then travel to Ueno Park. Here, besides the temples and shrines, what I first noticed was the Shinobazunoike pond. It is a pond, but it is difficult to see it as one, as almost the entire surface is covered by plants. In the middle of this part of the pond lies Bentenjima, a tiny island upon which the Bentendō temple dedicated to the goddess Benzaiten is located. In the park you also find the Ueno Toshogu Shrine, known for its gold leaf cover and intricate carvings. I walk around in the park for a while, goes outside to find a place for lunch (visits the Kaneiji temple on the way and back).
Lotus Pond of Shinobazunoike.
In the afternoon and evening, I do not do much other than walk around. Thought of getting up to an observation deck at the Tokyo Skytree, but instead goes to the observation deck at the Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center. Which is free (unlike the skytree) and has a bar where I can have a beer while looking out at nighttime Tokyo. Feel that it has been a lot of Sensōji, but I do not mind it, the temple takes up most of the view from the observation deck. I eat dinner at an izakaya not far away from where I ate yesterday, but I am not so satisfied with the food.
The golden Ueno Toshogu Shrine.
Ueno Toshogu Shrine reflected.
Last night in Japan, which feels strange now. Who was I that arrived in Tokyo for almost two months ago? Not the henro I am now, at least. Then I was unsure of what I had gotten myself into and what to expect from my pilgrimage. In overall, the Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage was a remarkable experience. It had its downs for sure, but they proved minor in the end. Mostly it was due to much walking on a hard surface, and then there were the many rainy days in a row. But, even most of the days that I felt was not so good, are days that I do not want to be without too. I believe that for a walk to be truly great, you also need to have some bad days. This might sound strange, but having some days that are not so good makes you appreciate the good days even more. You have to earn a little to live.
Kaneiji Temple.
Walking, as always, is a great way to meet and get to know other cultures. And the Shikoku Pilgrimage no less, the only minor drawback for me was my lack of Japanese. I have always been a person that yearns for the views, to get to high ground and look out across the landscape, but here I also come to love walking through the quiet and peaceful countryside. Not next to busy highways, and through the tunnels, on the other hand. The mountain paths does not always feature far-ranging views, as they are covered in vegetation here due to its climate and location, but when they do it is great.
Bentenjima with the Bentendō Temple.
Sensōji in the evening, seen from the observation deck at the Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center.
On the way, I grew to become very fond of the small temples on Shikoku, which manifested itself when I visited the much larger temples in Nara, Kyoto and here in Tokyo. I loved coming to the next temple, seeing how it looked like and getting to know the atmosphere of it. Even performing the rituals, which at first was strange and a little bit difficult, became moments that gave me a sense of belonging. When I reached Kagawa, or the Nehan dōjō, everything sort of fell in place. I was truly calm and content with my pilgrimage. Tomorrow I fly home to Oslo and Norway, it has been a pleasure.
A riverboat passes by on the Sumida river beneath Tokyo Skytree.
Namudaishi Henjōkongō!
<- Epilogue: KyotoUseful information ->
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