Thursday, August 3, 2017

Fannaråken - Kongsdøla

Massiv day 16.
Distance: 16.8km (342.0km), time spent: 10:15 (137:02).
Ascent / descent: 525m (11686m) / 1664m (11755m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 2068m / 912m / 2068m.
Weather: Fog, slightly overcast, sunny, cloudy, rain.

When I wake up at the usual time, it is back to the normal up here it seems. The fog lies dense around the cabin and the top and there is little that reminds me of the amazing sunrise for only a couple of hours ago. But that sunrise is not easily forgotten. I may have lost a couple of hours of necessary sleep, but in return, I have had a wonderful experience.

Back to the normal at Fannaråkhytta, when I wake up in the morning, the top is yet again cloaked by clouds.

Despite its location, there is more than enough food for breakfast. And the homemade bread tastes heavenly good. Today's plan is simple. Go down and back to Skogadalsbøen, pick up my equipment that I have stored there and then continue further to find a place to camp. Where? That I will find out on the way.

The path and tracks across the snow disappears in the fog and snow.

Instead of returning to Skogadalsbøen the same way I came up from, I choose to go down on the path going down towards Turtagrø. I will of course not go that far, but at the foot of the mountain there is a path leading back to Keisarpasset. I intend to take that path back and from Keisarpasset follow the same tracks as yesterday back. In this way, I get to see both of the ways to Fannaråkhytta.

A window to the surrounding world and Hurrungane opens up when I get down below the layer of clouds at the top of Fannaråken.

To start walking is like disappearing, at least the feeling of it. The snow and fog merges into one, and the path leading down is going straight into the middle of the nothingness. However, it does not take long time before you appear out of nowhere and to a window opening up towards the surrounding area and mountains around and below. The glaciers running like streams down from Hurrungane is at the start just visible beneath the sea of fog. When the snow retreats, I come out to the sea of rocks you have to cross of over to get down.

The path down from Fannaråkhytta, you can see the bright contours of the path winding down the scree. Helgedalen below, where the continuing path to Turtagrø goes.

The trail down from Fannaråken goes like waves, or zigzags, down. Constantly over rocks. The path clear and obvious, bleached and worn down by all that has gone up and down on it. The trail seen in a clearly brighter pattern than the surrounding stones. I can see two of the other guests at the cabin twist around the turns below, and later see other coming up from below. At this time, I am below the clouds where the views are great, it even appears that the clouds will break up. The views down Helgedalen, Bergsdalen and towards Fortun are splendid. The path turns downwards past Marangsgjelet. I overtake the two other I saw below and stop for a short break talking to them. I receive some chocolate as an added bonus.

Hurrungane with Styggedalsbreen, the summits surrounded by clouds.

More and more people are coming upwards the further down I go. Just below Ekrehytta is the junction, I now turn to the left. Above me, the sky now has taken a total u-turn compared to the earlier days. The sky is blue and sunny, hot. Nice weather. It should not last. Over towards Keisarpasset I also meet other people who had spent the night at Fannaråkhytta. They chose to go down the path I climbed up to the cabin. It is somewhat funny looking back up towards Fannaråken, I can see tiny figures moving up towards the cabin high above. They have arrived in good weather, I am happy on their behalf.

Blue sky and sun suddenly appeared on the walk over Skautehaugane between Hurrungane and Fannaråken.

Again it is clouding over when I get to Keisarpasset, but the weather is satisfied with just hiding the sun and there is no rain. Fannaråkhytta is still visible high up there, it is nice looking up towards it. I get a better overview over Jervvatnet than I did yesterday. It goes fast down Jervvassdalen, as it did up it. I meet a small group of young people, only walking in simple clothes, no backpacks, wondering a little about where they are headed. At Skogadalsbøen it is quiet, some hikers has already arrived, but they are still waiting for the large flow of people to come.

Jervvassbreen and Styggedalsbreen.

Back in the Massiv routines you might say. I take a longer break at Skogadalsbøen, together with a mother and her old children whom I also met at Fannaråken. I have some beers, relaxes, consider staying put for the night. Then I go out again. People on the way in. Outside it is now back to the more sad, but at the same time atmospheric weather.

Jervvassdalen with views towards Uranostinden.

The most boring thing by doing this, and with this I mean leaving behind the equipment at Skogadalsbøen, is that I have to walk through the forest after the cabin three times. It is pleasant enough, but the third time I feel that now I have seen it. A light drizzle follows me up into the valley, the upper part of Utladalen. Past derelict and abandoned farmsteads, where only the sheep seek shelter at the time. Verdant and lush.

Through the upper part of Utladalen you walk past abandoned and dilapidated farmsteads, as here at Guridalen.

I walk until I get to the bridge crossing over the Kongsdøla river. Here I find a place for the night. The surface is wet, and it is noisy from the gushing river below, but I am content with the day. It rains more and more during the afternoon and evening. I cook myself a cup of hot tea, before I begin preparing dinner at the bridge, the last dinner on my hike. After having eaten it and felt that I have had enough water poured down upon me, I crawl into my tent.

My campsite at Kongsdøla.

Inside the tent, I settle down with my book and relaxes, looking back at the day. The best part was at the beginning on it, the walk down from Fannaråkhytta, but I also enjoyed the walk up here after Skogadalsbøen, with a feeling of being the only one out and walking. Just me, alone, and the mountains around. And the rain. Tomorrow the end of this round of Massiv wait for me, I will go to Sognefjellshytta and take the bus home from there.

Map of the trail for the sixteenth day on Massiv, from Fannaråken to Kongsdøla.

<- Sunrise at FannaråkenSognefjellshytta ->

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