Distance: 15.5km (450.4km), time spent: 6:50 (231:19).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 782m / 434m / 1096m.
Weather: Overcast, nice in the evening.
Some days the walk is the best experience of the day, other days it is the afternoon and the evening afterwards that is offering the best experience. This was such a day. It is gusty and sour in the morning, on the day I have planned to go to one of the largest and greatest temples in South-Korea. I prepare for another combat with Baekdudaegan, and eat the last of the combat rations for breakfast, sitting down by the sanshingak.
The sanshingak at Gochiryeong. Some people are preparing for a ritual at the small pass.
Before I go, someone has arrived at the sanshingak. They broom the place around the little shrine of tree, lights the candles inside and are garnishing the altar with adornments and food. It is the 1st. of October today, but it is not good to tell if it has anything to do with today's date that a ritual is being held here. Up through the forest I can hear the echo from the ceremonial drum resonate through the trees.
Thin layers of mist floats on the path between Gochiryeong and Maguryeong.
Shortly after I set off, I encounter a sign telling me that the path goes through a tiny area that are closed, no paths around, no alternatives. No barriers, I sneak through, easy on foot. Like the clouds, that sneaks through the trees. There is little happening on the journey over to the pass of Maguryeong.
Maguryeong. A small pass on a big trail.
A small gravel road crosses the pass, modest and leisurely, still a stele celebrates the pass. Sitting on one of the benches, a little bit of trail magic is suddenly happening from an unexpected hold. A car is passing by; I nod smilingly to the people in the car while they are passing me by. Just before they disappear around the corner and out of the history, they stop. And start to back up. Out of the car, an elderly couple is coming, wondering if I am walking alone, 'honja'. When they are continuing driving, around the corner and out of the history, I am left behind with two apples and two bags of apple juice.
Trail magic at Maguryeong. An elderly couple in a car stopped and gave me two apples and two apple juice, before the drove on.
The walk today has mainly gone through forest, and there are no exception to that on the way to Galgotsan (966m). The wind are making the water on the leaves fall down, almost like rain. Galgotsan marks the endpoint of Baekdudaegan today; from here, a path leads down to the backdoor of the Buseoksa-temple, the temple of the floating stone. Before I venture down from the ridge yet again, I need some food. Soon after, the sounds of boiling water with noodles in under the canopy of the forest can be heard, quietly.
Through the national parks, I am still in Sobaeksan, the paths are marked by sign posts like this one at regular intervals.
It is 3.5km down to the temple, the path is not marked and as tradition go, steep at times. I have almost lost faith in being on the right path, when I suddenly stands next to a fence. A small climb over the obstacle and then I am inside the temple grounds of majestic Buseoksa, built in the year 676 by a monk named Uisang, it feels a little bit like I have sneaked myself into the place. A path leads down to the main temple; I arrived at one of the buildings in the backyard of the temple hidden beneath the trees.
The stone lantern of the Buseoksa temple, designated one of South-Korea's national treasures (#17).
The Jikjisa-temple was great, but Buseoksa feels even more grandiose. The different temple buildings lies like stairs above each other, with views over the valley below. On the uppermost 'staircase' is the main building of the temple, the Muryangsujeon Temple Hall. I will tell more about the temple later. In several of the temples in South-Korea it is possible to get to stay the night, in so-called temple stays. You get a small room, some simple food and you may be expected to attend some of the prayer sessions at the temple. I was hoping I could get a temple stay here at Buseoksa, but I do not know where I have to go to ask.
One of the guardians at the temple, keeping watch in one of the entry ports to the temple.
It turns out that you have to order in advance, something I have not done. A little bit hard when you cannot quite tell which day you will arrive, even though I could have tried to call two days ago. There was a lot of walking up and down in the temple, and down to the entrance a little way down, so I am tired. On the positive side, I meet Mr. Jeon Yeong-Su, a retired man that works as a guide and translator on the different tourist attractions in the area. He is waiting for me down by the area below the temple, which houses several restaurants and accommodation options, and is receiving me in a very friendly way. At his office, he is serving me kopi and attempts to enquire people higher up in the system if I can get a temple stay. Unfortunately, to no use.
Inside the temple grounds of Buseoksa.
Instead, he treats me to dinner on a local restaurant after I have been lodged in a minbak, where we eat bibimbap and fish (that the restaurant is giving us). Mr. Jeon Yeong-Su worked earlier as an English teacher and vice principal at a school, so he speaks very good English. It is pleasant talking with him, and so this becomes the highlight of the day. Yet another Korean hospitability.
Below the temple there is a small area where there are several restaurants and accommodations.
The weather was grey and dull during the walk, but in the afternoon and evening the weather has lifted. I think it would have been nice to enjoy the sunset from the temple, but choose not to spend what strength I have left going up again. Hence, the evening is spent relaxing at the minbak. 'Transformers: Age Of Extinction' are starting on a TV-channel, and it suits me fine to just sit down and watch a movie now. The joy is short lived though, it is pay TV, so the screen goes black and are changed to Korean writing that most probably are explaining how I can pay to see the rest. But how, I do not understand.
In shelter of the temple, the evening changes to night. Tomorrow there is a new day of rest.
Having a nice dinner together with Mr. Jeon Yeong-Su at a local restaurant, consisting of bibimbap and fish.
<- GochiryeongBuseoksa ->
No comments:
Post a Comment